Showing all 42 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Fri 28th Apr 2023 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
29 | ★★★ Serpentine - with Brent Anderson | 75m, 11 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
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24 ~25 | ★ Serpentine Pitch 1 — 2 attempts - with Brent Anderson | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A lot better than I was led to believe. Convoluted of course with an 8m traverse down low and a 5m traverse up high but I thought it climbed really well regardless - definitely thought provoking.
Got stopped at the first bolt, then had to work very hard with the mantle up to the 2nd bolt. Traverse out to the 3rd bolt got tenuous at the end because I didn't drop down. Great work from Brent to get our rope up to the 2nd bolt ! Bigger testicles than I own ... |
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Thu 22nd Mar 2018 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Spurt Wall | ||||||
25 24 | ★★ Dial-A-Lama - with Brent Anderson, Poppy | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unquestionably 25. Figured it out but putting it together will be another thing. There's a no-hander just before the final crux sequence which helps a lot, but I'm pretty sure I'll still find a way to blow it after that.
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Fri 23rd Jun 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Trackside Boulders Wiggly Boulder | ||||||
V4 V3 | ★★ Wiggly Boy - with Loads of people | 2m | Average | |||
Very hard getting your bum off the ground. Novelty thing which just isn't that awesome.
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V6 | ★★ Compaction - with Loads of people | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Close, actually. Did the first move (yes, being 6'1" helps a lot). Nearly did the second move. It's 2 moves long ...
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Fri 23rd Jun 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Trackside Boulders Amazing Boulder | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Lessons in Socialism - with Loads of people | 2m | ★ Good | |||
Awkward mantle move
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V7 | ★★ Cardigan St Massacre - with Loads of people | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Very hard first move
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V2 | ★ The V2 Sit - with Loads of people | 4m | ★ Good | |||
V6 V5 | ★★★ Sick Nutter - with Loads of people | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Yeah, V6 feels about right (guide says V5). Got scared
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V3 | ★★ Paranoiac Critical Town - with Loads of people | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Lovely rock
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Fri 23rd Jun 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
29 | ★★★ Cardigan Street Pitch 2 - with Marty Grimmel | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Two goes on top tope - did all the moves a couple of times each, but geez, linking this will be tricky - it's on, all the way to the final horizontal. Felt harder than Eye of the Tiger for me and Marty thought harder than Serpentine so 28 might be a tad solid (unless we were both missing half a dozen holds). Also a tad scary in places and in need or a re-bolt.
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Sun 4th Jun 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Tribute Wall Tribute Wall Upper | ||||||
21 | ★★ Back Stabbath - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 17m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really good grade 17 climbing with a single hard move above your gear
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18 | ★ MC Hammer Drill - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 16m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Punchy finish - I think this is given 17 in the guide which felt stiff
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16 | ★★ The Suburbs - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Really nice holds (hold manufacturers take note ...)
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19 | ★ Lost in Translation - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Committing finish. Tribute Upper is quite a lot better than Tribute Lower ...
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Sun 4th Jun 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Tribute Wall Tribute Wall Lower | ||||||
17 | ★ Inxcessive - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Tricky (but not actually difficult) start - a doddle after that
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16 | ★ Hot Play - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 9m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Fun start, then a doddle. Over all too soon.
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15 | ★ Maiden China - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Watch your head standing up on the shelf at the start !
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24 | ★★ By Jovi - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 14m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got pumped to the eyeballs on this one. Quite a lot harder then MS to its left
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22 | ★ Midnight Soiled - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 14m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice and sustained
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19 | ★★ In Halen - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 13m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Thanks to the FA's for providing these warm up routes !
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18 | ★ Lines N' Noses - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Stay left at the top and just run it out (Don't traverse into the top of IH which is harder)
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Sat 3rd Jun 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Van Diemen's Land | ||||||
22 | ★★ Happiness in Magazines (pitch 2) - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
(Fun) grade 17 up to a fun but harder finish. It's a shame this wasn't the original finish of Crime Wave as together it's a superior route to either. Done twice to get my gear back. Do it as one pitch.
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27 | ★★★ Velvet Goldmine - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard | 25m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Worked on lead - two hard moves. More awkward than difficult actually. Rising traverse to finish is great fun. Need to come back to this.
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19 18 | ★ The Dope Man - with Chris Fox | 5m, 2 | Average | |||
Extremely height dependent. Nowhere near 18 (much harder) if you are 5'7" like one of our party
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Sat 30th Apr 2016 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Spurt Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Spurting Mildly - with Bodin Pollard | 12m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Easy when you commit to the movement ! Hard if you don't (like I did on my first try).
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Sat 30th Apr 2016 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
27 | ★★ World Party Pitch 2 - with Bodin Pollard | 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Undercling moves were harder than it was in 1996 ... Shoulder-y high-step-and-up-move was harder than 1996 .... Traverse was harder than it was in 1996.
It is possible that I am just weaker now. |
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20 21 | ★★ World Party Pitch 1 - with Bodin Pollard | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Unnerving mantles, yet easy climbing. Alzheimer's onsight.
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Fri 29th Apr 2016 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Kindergarten The Kindergarten (bouldering) | ||||||
V1 | ★ Fairy Head | 3m | Don't Bother | |||
OCD on my part. Had to tick all the problems here that I could given the 3 hour drive and the rain ...
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V2 | ★ Stairway to Heaven - with Dave Jones, Bodin Pollard | 3m | Average | |||
Difficulty varies significantly depending on how much you are prepared to stem on the left wall. Avoiding the crack and left wall makes it depressingly difficult.
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V3 | ★★ Sesame Superhighway - with Dave Jones | 2m | ★ Good | |||
If you can find a way to get to the crimp with your right hand, everything just works out
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V7 | ★★★ The Nevin Rule - with Dave Jones | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Ultra classic problem with a number of different solutions - none of which I could do ... Dave did manage a repeat 20 years after his FA.
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V8 | ★★★ Spanking the Monkeybars direct - with Dave Jones | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Can very nearly do the mega-throw although if you are shorter than I am (6'1") you'll need to find a different way. Outstanding problem.
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V4 | ★★ A horse is a horse - with Bodin Pollard, Dave Jones | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Cool problem. Took more goes than I wanted - an exercise in core strength
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Thu 7th Nov 1996 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Sandinista Cliffs Sandinista Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Sandinista - with Dave Jones | 40m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
One of th best routes and one of my better onsights ... 26 years ago now though !?!?!
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Mon 1st Apr 1996 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
26 26 M1 | ★ Sordid Orchids - with Dave Jones | 55m, 5 | ||||
Mucking around with Dave seeing if it would go free
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Thu 3rd Jun 2117 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Van Diemen's Land | ||||||
21 | ★ Crime Wave - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard | 30m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Guidebook says 20 but 21 feels about right. Linked with HIM Pitch 2 first up, then came back and did it again to get my gear back but I refuse to log 2 ascents here.
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Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Spurt Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ This Spurting Life | 12m, 3 | ||||
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
26 | ★★ Dinosaurs Don't Dyno | 35m | ||||
The hardest 26 in the universe ...
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Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
26 26 R | ★★★ The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich) (+ Southern Delight) (The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich)) | 26m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
27 | ★★★ World Party | 53m, 9 |
Showing all 42 ascents.
Roof crux seems okay, delicate traverse afterwards was indeed delicate, turret was relatively straightforward, crimp crux was hard. Then was so rooted by the big break that I bailed. Shot number 2 will be a lot better I assume (well, I hope anyway)