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Ascents in North Grampians by Andrew Connolly

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Showing all 42 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality
Fri 28th Apr 2023 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - North
29 Serpentine - with Brent Anderson Mixed trad 75m, 11 Mega Classic
P2 (P1 described separately). First attempt - just trying to demystify the legend. Getting old, so about time I started working on it.

Roof crux seems okay, delicate traverse afterwards was indeed delicate, turret was relatively straightforward, crimp crux was hard. Then was so rooted by the big break that I bailed. Shot number 2 will be a lot better I assume (well, I hope anyway)

 
24 ~25 Serpentine Pitch 1 — 2 attempts - with Brent Anderson Trad 30m Very Good
A lot better than I was led to believe. Convoluted of course with an 8m traverse down low and a 5m traverse up high but I thought it climbed really well regardless - definitely thought provoking.

Got stopped at the first bolt, then had to work very hard with the mantle up to the 2nd bolt. Traverse out to the 3rd bolt got tenuous at the end because I didn't drop down.

Great work from Brent to get our rope up to the 2nd bolt ! Bigger testicles than I own ...

 
Thu 22nd Mar 2018 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Spurt Wall
25 24 Dial-A-Lama - with Brent Anderson, Poppy Sport 15m, 7 Very Good
Unquestionably 25. Figured it out but putting it together will be another thing. There's a no-hander just before the final crux sequence which helps a lot, but I'm pretty sure I'll still find a way to blow it after that.

 
Fri 23rd Jun 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Trackside Boulders Wiggly Boulder
V4 V3 Wiggly Boy - with Loads of people Boulder 2m Average
Very hard getting your bum off the ground. Novelty thing which just isn't that awesome.

 
V6 Compaction - with Loads of people Boulder 3m Good
Close, actually. Did the first move (yes, being 6'1" helps a lot). Nearly did the second move. It's 2 moves long ...

 
Fri 23rd Jun 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Trackside Boulders Amazing Boulder
V5 Lessons in Socialism - with Loads of people Boulder 2m Good
Awkward mantle move

 
V7 Cardigan St Massacre - with Loads of people Boulder 4m Very Good
Very hard first move

 
V2 The V2 Sit - with Loads of people Boulder 4m Good
V6 V5 Sick Nutter - with Loads of people Boulder 4m Very Good
Yeah, V6 feels about right (guide says V5). Got scared

 
V3 Paranoiac Critical Town - with Loads of people Boulder 4m Very Good
Lovely rock

 
Fri 23rd Jun 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - North
29 Cardigan Street Pitch 2 - with Marty Grimmel Sport 25m, 7 Classic
Two goes on top tope - did all the moves a couple of times each, but geez, linking this will be tricky - it's on, all the way to the final horizontal. Felt harder than Eye of the Tiger for me and Marty thought harder than Serpentine so 28 might be a tad solid (unless we were both missing half a dozen holds). Also a tad scary in places and in need or a re-bolt.

 
Sun 4th Jun 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
Tribute Wall Tribute Wall Upper
21 Back Stabbath - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 17m, 6 Very Good
Really good grade 17 climbing with a single hard move above your gear

 
18 MC Hammer Drill - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 16m, 5 Very Good
Punchy finish - I think this is given 17 in the guide which felt stiff

 
16 The Suburbs - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 15m, 6 Very Good
Really nice holds (hold manufacturers take note ...)

 
19 Lost in Translation - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 17m, 7 Very Good
Committing finish. Tribute Upper is quite a lot better than Tribute Lower ...

 
Sun 4th Jun 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
Tribute Wall Tribute Wall Lower
17 Inxcessive - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 13m, 5 Good
Tricky (but not actually difficult) start - a doddle after that

 
16 Hot Play - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 9m, 4 Good
Fun start, then a doddle. Over all too soon.

 
15 Maiden China - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 13m, 5 Good
Watch your head standing up on the shelf at the start !

 
24 By Jovi - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 14m, 4 Very Good
Got pumped to the eyeballs on this one. Quite a lot harder then MS to its left

 
22 Midnight Soiled - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 14m, 5 Very Good
Nice and sustained

 
19 In Halen - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 13m, 4 Good
Thanks to the FA's for providing these warm up routes !

 
18 Lines N' Noses - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 12m, 4 Good
Stay left at the top and just run it out (Don't traverse into the top of IH which is harder)

 
Sat 3rd Jun 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
Van Diemen's Land
22 Happiness in Magazines (pitch 2) - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard Sport 15m, 5 Very Good
(Fun) grade 17 up to a fun but harder finish. It's a shame this wasn't the original finish of Crime Wave as together it's a superior route to either. Done twice to get my gear back. Do it as one pitch.

 
27 Velvet Goldmine - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard Sport 25m, 9 Very Good
Worked on lead - two hard moves. More awkward than difficult actually. Rising traverse to finish is great fun. Need to come back to this.

 
19 18 The Dope Man - with Chris Fox Sport 5m, 2 Average
Extremely height dependent. Nowhere near 18 (much harder) if you are 5'7" like one of our party

 
Sat 30th Apr 2016 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Spurt Wall
22 Spurting Mildly - with Bodin Pollard Sport 12m, 3 Very Good
Easy when you commit to the movement ! Hard if you don't (like I did on my first try).

 
Sat 30th Apr 2016 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - South
27 World Party Pitch 2 - with Bodin Pollard Sport 12m Very Good
Undercling moves were harder than it was in 1996 ... Shoulder-y high-step-and-up-move was harder than 1996 .... Traverse was harder than it was in 1996.

It is possible that I am just weaker now.

 
20 21 World Party Pitch 1 - with Bodin Pollard Trad 20m Very Good
Unnerving mantles, yet easy climbing. Alzheimer's onsight.

 
Fri 29th Apr 2016 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
Kindergarten The Kindergarten (bouldering)
V1 Fairy Head Boulder 3m Don't Bother
OCD on my part. Had to tick all the problems here that I could given the 3 hour drive and the rain ...

 
V2 Stairway to Heaven - with Dave Jones, Bodin Pollard Boulder 3m Average
Difficulty varies significantly depending on how much you are prepared to stem on the left wall. Avoiding the crack and left wall makes it depressingly difficult.

 
V3 Sesame Superhighway - with Dave Jones Boulder 2m Good
If you can find a way to get to the crimp with your right hand, everything just works out

 
V7 The Nevin Rule - with Dave Jones Boulder 5m Classic
Ultra classic problem with a number of different solutions - none of which I could do ... Dave did manage a repeat 20 years after his FA.

 
V8 Spanking the Monkeybars direct - with Dave Jones Boulder Classic
Can very nearly do the mega-throw although if you are shorter than I am (6'1") you'll need to find a different way. Outstanding problem.

 
V4 A horse is a horse - with Bodin Pollard, Dave Jones Boulder 5m Very Good
Cool problem. Took more goes than I wanted - an exercise in core strength

 
Thu 7th Nov 1996 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
Sandinista Cliffs Sandinista Wall
23 Sandinista - with Dave Jones Trad 40m Mega Classic
One of th best routes and one of my better onsights ... 26 years ago now though !?!?!

 
Mon 1st Apr 1996 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - North
26 26 M1 Sordid Orchids - with Dave Jones Aid 55m, 5
Mucking around with Dave seeing if it would go free

 
Thu 3rd Jun 2117 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
Van Diemen's Land
21 Crime Wave - with Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard Sport 30m, 6 Very Good
Guidebook says 20 but 21 feels about right. Linked with HIM Pitch 2 first up, then came back and did it again to get my gear back but I refuse to log 2 ascents here.

 
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - North
27 Mirage Mixed trad 35m, 15
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Spurt Wall
26 This Spurting Life Sport 12m, 3
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - North
26 Dinosaurs Don't Dyno Trad 35m
The hardest 26 in the universe ...

 
Tue 13th Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - South
26 26 R The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich) (+ Southern Delight) (The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich)) Sport 26m, 7 Very Good
27 World Party Mixed trad 53m, 9

Showing all 42 ascents.

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