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Begehungen in North Grampians von Andrew Connolly

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Zeigt alle 42 Begehungen.

Schwierigkeitsgrad Route Stil Qualität
Fr 28. Apr 2023 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - North
29 Serpentine - mit Brent Anderson Gemischt trad 75m, 11 Mega-Klassiker
P2 (P1 described separately). First attempt - just trying to demystify the legend. Getting old, so about time I started working on it.

Roof crux seems okay, delicate traverse afterwards was indeed delicate, turret was relatively straightforward, crimp crux was hard. Then was so rooted by the big break that I bailed. Shot number 2 will be a lot better I assume (well, I hope anyway)

 
24 ~25 Serpentine Pitch 1 — 2 Versuche - mit Brent Anderson Traditionell 30m Sehr gut
A lot better than I was led to believe. Convoluted of course with an 8m traverse down low and a 5m traverse up high but I thought it climbed really well regardless - definitely thought provoking.

Got stopped at the first bolt, then had to work very hard with the mantle up to the 2nd bolt. Traverse out to the 3rd bolt got tenuous at the end because I didn't drop down.

Great work from Brent to get our rope up to the 2nd bolt ! Bigger testicles than I own ...

 
Do 22. Mär 2018 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Spurt Wall
25 24 Dial-A-Lama - mit Brent Anderson, Poppy Sport 15m, 7 Sehr gut
Unquestionably 25. Figured it out but putting it together will be another thing. There's a no-hander just before the final crux sequence which helps a lot, but I'm pretty sure I'll still find a way to blow it after that.

 
Fr 23. Jun 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Trackside Boulders Wiggly Boulder
V4 V3 Wiggly Boy - mit Loads of people Boulder 2m Durchschnitt
Very hard getting your bum off the ground. Novelty thing which just isn't that awesome.

 
V6 Compaction - mit Loads of people Boulder 3m Gut
Close, actually. Did the first move (yes, being 6'1" helps a lot). Nearly did the second move. It's 2 moves long ...

 
Fr 23. Jun 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Trackside Boulders Amazing Boulder
V5 Lessons in Socialism - mit Loads of people Boulder 2m Gut
Awkward mantle move

 
V7 Cardigan St Massacre - mit Loads of people Boulder 4m Sehr gut
Very hard first move

 
V2 The V2 Sit - mit Loads of people Boulder 4m Gut
V6 V5 Sick Nutter - mit Loads of people Boulder 4m Sehr gut
Yeah, V6 feels about right (guide says V5). Got scared

 
V3 Paranoiac Critical Town - mit Loads of people Boulder 4m Sehr gut
Lovely rock

 
Fr 23. Jun 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - North
29 Cardigan Street Pitch 2 - mit Marty Grimmel Sport 25m, 7 Klassiker
Two goes on top tope - did all the moves a couple of times each, but geez, linking this will be tricky - it's on, all the way to the final horizontal. Felt harder than Eye of the Tiger for me and Marty thought harder than Serpentine so 28 might be a tad solid (unless we were both missing half a dozen holds). Also a tad scary in places and in need or a re-bolt.

 
So 4. Jun 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
Tribute Wall Tribute Wall Upper
21 Back Stabbath - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 17m, 6 Sehr gut
Really good grade 17 climbing with a single hard move above your gear

 
18 MC Hammer Drill - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 16m, 5 Sehr gut
Punchy finish - I think this is given 17 in the guide which felt stiff

 
16 The Suburbs - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 15m, 6 Sehr gut
Really nice holds (hold manufacturers take note ...)

 
19 Lost in Translation - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 17m, 7 Sehr gut
Committing finish. Tribute Upper is quite a lot better than Tribute Lower ...

 
So 4. Jun 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
Tribute Wall Tribute Wall Lower
17 Inxcessive - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 13m, 5 Gut
Tricky (but not actually difficult) start - a doddle after that

 
16 Hot Play - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 9m, 4 Gut
Fun start, then a doddle. Over all too soon.

 
15 Maiden China - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 13m, 5 Gut
Watch your head standing up on the shelf at the start !

 
24 By Jovi - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 14m, 4 Sehr gut
Got pumped to the eyeballs on this one. Quite a lot harder then MS to its left

 
22 Midnight Soiled - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 14m, 5 Sehr gut
Nice and sustained

 
19 In Halen - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 13m, 4 Gut
Thanks to the FA's for providing these warm up routes !

 
18 Lines N' Noses - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith Sport 12m, 4 Gut
Stay left at the top and just run it out (Don't traverse into the top of IH which is harder)

 
Sa 3. Jun 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
Van Diemen's Land
22 Happiness in Magazines (pitch 2) - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard Sport 15m, 5 Sehr gut
(Fun) grade 17 up to a fun but harder finish. It's a shame this wasn't the original finish of Crime Wave as together it's a superior route to either. Done twice to get my gear back. Do it as one pitch.

 
27 Velvet Goldmine - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard Sport 25m, 9 Sehr gut
Worked on lead - two hard moves. More awkward than difficult actually. Rising traverse to finish is great fun. Need to come back to this.

 
19 18 The Dope Man - mit Chris Fox Sport 5m, 2 Durchschnitt
Extremely height dependent. Nowhere near 18 (much harder) if you are 5'7" like one of our party

 
Sa 30. Apr 2016 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Spurt Wall
22 Spurting Mildly - mit Bodin Pollard Sport 12m, 3 Sehr gut
Easy when you commit to the movement ! Hard if you don't (like I did on my first try).

 
Sa 30. Apr 2016 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - South
27 World Party Pitch 2 - mit Bodin Pollard Sport 12m Sehr gut
Undercling moves were harder than it was in 1996 ... Shoulder-y high-step-and-up-move was harder than 1996 .... Traverse was harder than it was in 1996.

It is possible that I am just weaker now.

 
20 21 World Party Pitch 1 - mit Bodin Pollard Traditionell 20m Sehr gut
Unnerving mantles, yet easy climbing. Alzheimer's onsight.

 
Fr 29. Apr 2016 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
Kindergarten The Kindergarten (bouldering)
V1 Fairy Head Boulder 3m Vergiss es
OCD on my part. Had to tick all the problems here that I could given the 3 hour drive and the rain ...

 
V2 Stairway to Heaven - mit Dave Jones, Bodin Pollard Boulder 3m Durchschnitt
Difficulty varies significantly depending on how much you are prepared to stem on the left wall. Avoiding the crack and left wall makes it depressingly difficult.

 
V3 Sesame Superhighway - mit Dave Jones Boulder 2m Gut
If you can find a way to get to the crimp with your right hand, everything just works out

 
V7 The Nevin Rule - mit Dave Jones Boulder 5m Klassiker
Ultra classic problem with a number of different solutions - none of which I could do ... Dave did manage a repeat 20 years after his FA.

 
V8 Spanking the Monkeybars direct - mit Dave Jones Boulder Klassiker
Can very nearly do the mega-throw although if you are shorter than I am (6'1") you'll need to find a different way. Outstanding problem.

 
V4 A horse is a horse - mit Bodin Pollard, Dave Jones Boulder 5m Sehr gut
Cool problem. Took more goes than I wanted - an exercise in core strength

 
Do 7. Nov 1996 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
Sandinista Cliffs Sandinista Wall
23 Sandinista - mit Dave Jones Traditionell 40m Mega-Klassiker
One of th best routes and one of my better onsights ... 26 years ago now though !?!?!

 
Mo 1. Apr 1996 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - North
26 26 M1 Sordid Orchids - mit Dave Jones Technisch 55m, 5
Mucking around with Dave seeing if it would go free

 
Do 3. Jun 2117 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
Van Diemen's Land
21 Crime Wave - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard Sport 30m, 6 Sehr gut
Guidebook says 20 but 21 feels about right. Linked with HIM Pitch 2 first up, then came back and did it again to get my gear back but I refuse to log 2 ascents here.

 
Di 13. Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - North
27 Mirage Gemischt trad 35m, 15
Di 13. Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Spurt Wall
26 This Spurting Life Sport 12m, 3
Di 13. Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - North
26 Dinosaurs Don't Dyno Traditionell 35m
The hardest 26 in the universe ...

 
Di 13. Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre
Taipan Wall - South
26 26 R The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich) (+ Southern Delight) (The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich)) Sport 26m, 7 Sehr gut
27 World Party Gemischt trad 53m, 9

Zeigt alle 42 Begehungen.

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