Zeigt alle 42 Begehungen.
Schwierigkeitsgrad | Route | Stil | Qualität | |||
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Fr 28. Apr 2023 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
29 | ★★★ Serpentine - mit Brent Anderson | 75m, 11 | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
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24 ~25 | ★ Serpentine Pitch 1 — 2 Versuche - mit Brent Anderson | 30m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
A lot better than I was led to believe. Convoluted of course with an 8m traverse down low and a 5m traverse up high but I thought it climbed really well regardless - definitely thought provoking.
Got stopped at the first bolt, then had to work very hard with the mantle up to the 2nd bolt. Traverse out to the 3rd bolt got tenuous at the end because I didn't drop down. Great work from Brent to get our rope up to the 2nd bolt ! Bigger testicles than I own ... |
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Do 22. Mär 2018 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Spurt Wall | ||||||
25 24 | ★★ Dial-A-Lama - mit Brent Anderson, Poppy | 15m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Unquestionably 25. Figured it out but putting it together will be another thing. There's a no-hander just before the final crux sequence which helps a lot, but I'm pretty sure I'll still find a way to blow it after that.
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Fr 23. Jun 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Trackside Boulders Wiggly Boulder | ||||||
V4 V3 | ★★ Wiggly Boy - mit Loads of people | 2m | Durchschnitt | |||
Very hard getting your bum off the ground. Novelty thing which just isn't that awesome.
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V6 | ★★ Compaction - mit Loads of people | 3m | ★ Gut | |||
Close, actually. Did the first move (yes, being 6'1" helps a lot). Nearly did the second move. It's 2 moves long ...
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Fr 23. Jun 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Trackside Boulders Amazing Boulder | ||||||
V5 | ★★ Lessons in Socialism - mit Loads of people | 2m | ★ Gut | |||
Awkward mantle move
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V7 | ★★ Cardigan St Massacre - mit Loads of people | 4m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Very hard first move
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V2 | ★ The V2 Sit - mit Loads of people | 4m | ★ Gut | |||
V6 V5 | ★★★ Sick Nutter - mit Loads of people | 4m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Yeah, V6 feels about right (guide says V5). Got scared
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V3 | ★★ Paranoiac Critical Town - mit Loads of people | 4m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Lovely rock
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Fr 23. Jun 2017 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
29 | ★★★ Cardigan Street Pitch 2 - mit Marty Grimmel | 25m, 7 | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Two goes on top tope - did all the moves a couple of times each, but geez, linking this will be tricky - it's on, all the way to the final horizontal. Felt harder than Eye of the Tiger for me and Marty thought harder than Serpentine so 28 might be a tad solid (unless we were both missing half a dozen holds). Also a tad scary in places and in need or a re-bolt.
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So 4. Jun 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Tribute Wall Tribute Wall Upper | ||||||
21 | ★★ Back Stabbath - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 17m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Really good grade 17 climbing with a single hard move above your gear
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18 | ★ MC Hammer Drill - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 16m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Punchy finish - I think this is given 17 in the guide which felt stiff
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16 | ★★ The Suburbs - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 15m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Really nice holds (hold manufacturers take note ...)
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19 | ★ Lost in Translation - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 17m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Committing finish. Tribute Upper is quite a lot better than Tribute Lower ...
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So 4. Jun 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Tribute Wall Tribute Wall Lower | ||||||
17 | ★ Inxcessive - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 13m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Tricky (but not actually difficult) start - a doddle after that
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16 | ★ Hot Play - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 9m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Fun start, then a doddle. Over all too soon.
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15 | ★ Maiden China - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 13m, 5 | ★ Gut | |||
Watch your head standing up on the shelf at the start !
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24 | ★★ By Jovi - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 14m, 4 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Got pumped to the eyeballs on this one. Quite a lot harder then MS to its left
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22 | ★ Midnight Soiled - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 14m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Nice and sustained
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19 | ★★ In Halen - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 13m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Thanks to the FA's for providing these warm up routes !
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18 | ★ Lines N' Noses - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard, Richard Smith | 12m, 4 | ★ Gut | |||
Stay left at the top and just run it out (Don't traverse into the top of IH which is harder)
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Sa 3. Jun 2017 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Van Diemen's Land | ||||||
22 | ★★ Happiness in Magazines (pitch 2) - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard | 15m, 5 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
(Fun) grade 17 up to a fun but harder finish. It's a shame this wasn't the original finish of Crime Wave as together it's a superior route to either. Done twice to get my gear back. Do it as one pitch.
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27 | ★★★ Velvet Goldmine - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard | 25m, 9 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Worked on lead - two hard moves. More awkward than difficult actually. Rising traverse to finish is great fun. Need to come back to this.
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19 18 | ★ The Dope Man - mit Chris Fox | 5m, 2 | Durchschnitt | |||
Extremely height dependent. Nowhere near 18 (much harder) if you are 5'7" like one of our party
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Sa 30. Apr 2016 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Spurt Wall | ||||||
22 | ★ Spurting Mildly - mit Bodin Pollard | 12m, 3 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Easy when you commit to the movement ! Hard if you don't (like I did on my first try).
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Sa 30. Apr 2016 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
27 | ★★ World Party Pitch 2 - mit Bodin Pollard | 12m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Undercling moves were harder than it was in 1996 ... Shoulder-y high-step-and-up-move was harder than 1996 .... Traverse was harder than it was in 1996.
It is possible that I am just weaker now. |
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20 21 | ★★ World Party Pitch 1 - mit Bodin Pollard | 20m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Unnerving mantles, yet easy climbing. Alzheimer's onsight.
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Fr 29. Apr 2016 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Kindergarten The Kindergarten (bouldering) | ||||||
V1 | ★ Fairy Head | 3m | Vergiss es | |||
OCD on my part. Had to tick all the problems here that I could given the 3 hour drive and the rain ...
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V2 | ★ Stairway to Heaven - mit Dave Jones, Bodin Pollard | 3m | Durchschnitt | |||
Difficulty varies significantly depending on how much you are prepared to stem on the left wall. Avoiding the crack and left wall makes it depressingly difficult.
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V3 | ★★ Sesame Superhighway - mit Dave Jones | 2m | ★ Gut | |||
If you can find a way to get to the crimp with your right hand, everything just works out
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V7 | ★★★ The Nevin Rule - mit Dave Jones | 5m | ★★★ Klassiker | |||
Ultra classic problem with a number of different solutions - none of which I could do ... Dave did manage a repeat 20 years after his FA.
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V8 | ★★★ Spanking the Monkeybars direct - mit Dave Jones | ★★★ Klassiker | ||||
Can very nearly do the mega-throw although if you are shorter than I am (6'1") you'll need to find a different way. Outstanding problem.
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V4 | ★★ A horse is a horse - mit Bodin Pollard, Dave Jones | 5m | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Cool problem. Took more goes than I wanted - an exercise in core strength
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Do 7. Nov 1996 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Sandinista Cliffs Sandinista Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Sandinista - mit Dave Jones | 40m | ★★★ Mega-Klassiker | |||
One of th best routes and one of my better onsights ... 26 years ago now though !?!?!
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Mo 1. Apr 1996 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
26 26 M1 | ★ Sordid Orchids - mit Dave Jones | 55m, 5 | ||||
Mucking around with Dave seeing if it would go free
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Do 3. Jun 2117 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||||||
Van Diemen's Land | ||||||
21 | ★ Crime Wave - mit Chris Fox, Bodin Pollard | 30m, 6 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
Guidebook says 20 but 21 feels about right. Linked with HIM Pitch 2 first up, then came back and did it again to get my gear back but I refuse to log 2 ascents here.
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Di 13. Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
27 | ★★★ Mirage | 35m, 15 | ||||
Di 13. Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Spurt Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ This Spurting Life | 12m, 3 | ||||
Di 13. Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - North | ||||||
26 | ★★ Dinosaurs Don't Dyno | 35m | ||||
The hardest 26 in the universe ...
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Di 13. Apr 2010 - Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||||||
Taipan Wall - South | ||||||
26 26 R | ★★★ The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich) (+ Southern Delight) (The Invisible Fist (of Professor Hiddich Smiddich)) | 26m, 7 | ★★ Sehr gut | |||
27 | ★★★ World Party | 53m, 9 |
Zeigt alle 42 Begehungen.
Roof crux seems okay, delicate traverse afterwards was indeed delicate, turret was relatively straightforward, crimp crux was hard. Then was so rooted by the big break that I bailed. Shot number 2 will be a lot better I assume (well, I hope anyway)