A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Campbell Gome Philip Armstrong Matt White Neil Barr Alex Casar Craig Orgill Tim Clarke gavin reynolds
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Crock Wall 18 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Crock Wall 18 routes in Crag
- Summary:
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All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -37.144767, 142.512630
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
access issues
Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd
approach
Original Access: From Halls Gap, walk up the trail to the Mackeys Peak turnoff. Continue along the trail for another 300m, past another pinnacle, then cut directly down through the bush to find a low rock wall after about 100m. Follow this wall to the right(south) for 100-150m until it grows up to be a proper little cliff.
Easier access: From Mackey's Peak just keep walking along the tourist track south until you get the "Warning cliff edge sign" that has the green GNP emergency marker on it. This is the top of Crock Wall. Walk south on a slight foot pad for only 5 metres. Before a large boulder take the small left trending gully. Follow this down around left (a few cairns) and find lower off rings (these are at the top of Dynomotive).
ethic
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
Ponsonby's Crack
2m R of Yin and Yang. Up over the boulder into the chimney that takes a direct line to the top. FA: John Fisher & Jonathan Bloomfield, 1983 | 7 | 27m | |||||
2 |
Yang
As for Yin but take the chimney on the R. FA: John Fisher & Jonathan Bloomfield, 1983 | 6 | 27m | |||||
3 |
Yin
2mR of Gelati Crumble. Move up the crack past the gum tree and over the overhang. Then move up the L chimney on good holds. 12.11.83 FA: John Fisher & Jonathan Bloomfield, 1983 | 6 | 27m | |||||
4 |
Gelati Crumble
The thin crack 2m R of Dodgem Delight. Continue up veering R to move up the crack between Dodgem Delight and Yang and follow R side of buttress to top. FA: John Fisher solo, 1983 | 7 | 27m | |||||
5 |
Dodgem Delight
5m R of Barabajagal. Start at a short wall with a couple of reachy moves. Up the ramp to the base of a bottomless chimney to the top FA: Ceri Law & Bill Andrews, 1981 | 9 | 28m | |||||
6 |
★ Ringtail
Start up Dodgem Delight. Step left at the bush at the top of the first wall and follow the corner above. FA: Bill Andrews & Ceri Law, 1981 | 10 | 28m | |||||
7 |
★★ Barabajagal
The first main line on the R hand of the orange rock. Up past a small tree, layback off the creaking hold, past another tree then the line to the top FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1981 | 15 | 30m | |||||
8 |
Shuper Sheet
The buttress left of Barabajagal with sparse protection | 16 | 28m | |||||
9 |
Frank Nugan's Hand
4m L of Barabajagal. Up the block onto the front of the buttress and into the chimney. Bridge wide then climb the L wall for a few metres stepping L to finish at the top. FA: Peter Watling & Bill Andrews FFA: 1981 | 9 | 39m | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
Major Mitchell's Minor Chimney
2m L of Frank Nugans Hand. Up the crack into the chimney , at the choss move L and up over some blocks. FA: Bill Andrews & Ceri Law, 1981 | 9 | 29m | |||||
11 |
Shuper
Climb the crack between Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney and Deshperado. Move R from the bollard then climb the buttress direct. FA: Peter Martin & Ed Steenbergen, 1991 | 17 | 25m | |||||
12 |
Deshperado
2m L of Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney. Up the wall on the L of the crack step R below the bollard and up the R hand crack into the chimney. Up past the tree and easily onwards. FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1983 | 14 | 25m | |||||
13 |
Shuper Duper
Starts as for Deshperado. Move L from the bollard and up the wall. FA: Steve Jones & Peter Martin 21.3.91, 1991 | 20 | 22m | |||||
14 |
★ Precarious
2m L of Deshperado. Up to the roof, over it and then the crack. FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1983 FFA: Allan Hope, 1984 | 18 | 20m | |||||
15 |
The Nose and Tina
As for Dynomotive but at the ledge step R onto the arete and follow flakes up steep face, being wary of loose blocks. 12.11.83 FA: Kieran Loughran, Paul Horne & Heather Phillips, 1983 | 15 | 20m | |||||
16 |
★ Dynomotive
The black streak 3m L of Precarious is thin and unprotected. Up the streak to a ledge at 6m then the corner on the R hand end of the ledge. FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1981 | 16 | 23m | |||||
17 |
★ Portrait of Dorian Gray
Starts 2m L of Dynomotive. Up to gain a jug in the middle of the face and on to the ledge. An unprotected bouldery problem that could do with a bolt. Up just R of Crocks Alley (it's a struggle to stay out of that climb). FA: Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1983 | 18 | 27m | |||||
18 |
Crocks' Alley
1m L of Portrait Of Dorian Gray. Up the crack and wall, bypass the bush on the R and regain the crack. 25.4.81 FA: Ceri Law & Bill Andrews, 1984 | 8 | 23m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
6 | Yang | 27m | |||
Yin | 27m | ||||
7 | Gelati Crumble | 27m | |||
Ponsonby's Crack | 27m | ||||
8 | Crocks' Alley | 23m | |||
9 | Dodgem Delight | 28m | |||
Frank Nugan's Hand | 39m | ||||
Major Mitchell's Minor Chimney | 29m | ||||
10 | ★ | Ringtail | 28m | ||
14 | Deshperado | 25m | |||
15 | ★★ | Barabajagal | 30m | ||
The Nose and Tina | 20m | ||||
16 | ★ | Dynomotive | 23m | ||
Shuper Sheet | 28m | ||||
17 | Shuper | 25m | |||
18 | ★ | Portrait of Dorian Gray | 27m | ||
★ | Precarious | 20m | |||
20 | Shuper Duper | 22m |