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Crock Wall Guide

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 24

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome Philip Armstrong Matt White Neil Barr Alex Casar Craig Orgill Tim Clarke gavin reynolds

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Table of contents

1. Crock Wall 18 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -37.144767, 142.512630

access issues

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

inherited from Grampians

approach

Original Access: From Halls Gap, walk up the trail to the Mackeys Peak turnoff. Continue along the trail for another 300m, past another pinnacle, then cut directly down through the bush to find a low rock wall after about 100m. Follow this wall to the right(south) for 100-150m until it grows up to be a proper little cliff.

Easier access: From Mackey's Peak just keep walking along the tourist track south until you get the "Warning cliff edge sign" that has the green GNP emergency marker on it. This is the top of Crock Wall. Walk south on a slight foot pad for only 5 metres. Before a large boulder take the small left trending gully. Follow this down around left (a few cairns) and find lower off rings (these are at the top of Dynomotive).

ethic

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

inherited from Grampians
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Ponsonby's Crack

2m R of Yin and Yang. Up over the boulder into the chimney that takes a direct line to the top.

FA: John Fisher & Jonathan Bloomfield, 1983

7 Trad 27m
2 Yang

As for Yin but take the chimney on the R.

FA: John Fisher & Jonathan Bloomfield, 1983

6 Trad 27m
3 Yin

2mR of Gelati Crumble. Move up the crack past the gum tree and over the overhang. Then move up the L chimney on good holds. 12.11.83

FA: John Fisher & Jonathan Bloomfield, 1983

6 Trad 27m
4 Gelati Crumble

The thin crack 2m R of Dodgem Delight. Continue up veering R to move up the crack between Dodgem Delight and Yang and follow R side of buttress to top.

FA: John Fisher solo, 1983

7 Trad 27m
5 Dodgem Delight

5m R of Barabajagal. Start at a short wall with a couple of reachy moves. Up the ramp to the base of a bottomless chimney to the top

FA: Ceri Law & Bill Andrews, 1981

9 Trad 28m
6 Ringtail

Start up Dodgem Delight. Step left at the bush at the top of the first wall and follow the corner above.

FA: Bill Andrews & Ceri Law, 1981

10 Trad 28m
7 Barabajagal

The first main line on the R hand of the orange rock. Up past a small tree, layback off the creaking hold, past another tree then the line to the top

FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1981

15 Trad 30m
8 Shuper Sheet

The buttress left of Barabajagal with sparse protection

16 Trad 28m
9 Frank Nugan's Hand

4m L of Barabajagal. Up the block onto the front of the buttress and into the chimney. Bridge wide then climb the L wall for a few metres stepping L to finish at the top.

FA: Peter Watling & Bill Andrews

FFA: 1981

9 Trad 39m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
10 Major Mitchell's Minor Chimney

2m L of Frank Nugans Hand. Up the crack into the chimney , at the choss move L and up over some blocks.

FA: Bill Andrews & Ceri Law, 1981

9 Trad 29m
11 Shuper

Climb the crack between Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney and Deshperado. Move R from the bollard then climb the buttress direct.

FA: Peter Martin & Ed Steenbergen, 1991

17 Trad 25m
12 Deshperado

2m L of Major Mitchell’s Minor Chimney. Up the wall on the L of the crack step R below the bollard and up the R hand crack into the chimney. Up past the tree and easily onwards.

FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1983

14 Trad 25m
13 Shuper Duper

Starts as for Deshperado. Move L from the bollard and up the wall.

FA: Steve Jones & Peter Martin 21.3.91, 1991

20 Trad 22m
14 Precarious

2m L of Deshperado. Up to the roof, over it and then the crack.

FA: Allan Hope & Bill Andrews, 1983

FFA: Allan Hope, 1984

18 Trad 20m
15 The Nose and Tina

As for Dynomotive but at the ledge step R onto the arete and follow flakes up steep face, being wary of loose blocks. 12.11.83

FA: Kieran Loughran, Paul Horne & Heather Phillips, 1983

15 Trad 20m
16 Dynomotive

The black streak 3m L of Precarious is thin and unprotected. Up the streak to a ledge at 6m then the corner on the R hand end of the ledge.

FA: Bill Andrews & Peter Watling, 1981

16 Trad 23m
17 Portrait of Dorian Gray

Starts 2m L of Dynomotive. Up to gain a jug in the middle of the face and on to the ledge. An unprotected bouldery problem that could do with a bolt. Up just R of Crocks Alley (it's a struggle to stay out of that climb).

FA: Bill Andrews & Allan Hope, 1983

18 Trad 27m
18 Crocks' Alley

1m L of Portrait Of Dorian Gray. Up the crack and wall, bypass the bush on the R and regain the crack. 25.4.81

FA: Ceri Law & Bill Andrews, 1984

8 Trad 23m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
6 Yang Trad 27m
Yin Trad 27m
7 Gelati Crumble Trad 27m
Ponsonby's Crack Trad 27m
8 Crocks' Alley Trad 23m
9 Dodgem Delight Trad 28m
Frank Nugan's Hand Trad 39m
Major Mitchell's Minor Chimney Trad 29m
10 Ringtail Trad 28m
14 Deshperado Trad 25m
15 Barabajagal Trad 30m
The Nose and Tina Trad 20m
16 Dynomotive Trad 23m
Shuper Sheet Trad 28m
17 Shuper Trad 25m
18 Portrait of Dorian Gray Trad 27m
Precarious Trad 20m
20 Shuper Duper Trad 22m
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