Flying Blind Area Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Campbell Gome Pete Stebbins Matt Brooks ACAV Brendan Heywood Andrew gavin reynolds Glen Buchanan Sam Lee Tim Storey

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

1. Flying Blind Area 29 in Crag
2. Index by grade

1. Flying Blind Area 29 routes in Crag

Summary:

Seasonality

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -36.888874, 142.383402

access issues

Although there is no CH on this cliff itself, it's easily visible from the walking track, and probably best avoided.

ethic

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

inherited from Grampians

	Route	Grade	Style
1	Bullamakanka	13	Trad 15m
2	Twisties	13	Trad 15m
3	Turtles, Baked Beans and Boodles	13	Trad 15m
4	Danny's Second Coming	10	Trad 20m
5	Tightrope Act	15	Trad 20m
6	Radar FA: Walter Berger & Steve Bennett, 1988	15	Trad 15m
7	Raindogs FA: Bruce Somerfield, Phil Robertson, Clare Robertson & Tony Sands, 1987	12	Trad 22m
8	★ Chocolate Frog This was originally graded 17 as the FA was quite straight-forward on hand jams. Repeats found it quite a bit harder, maybe because they were laybacking? FA: James McIntosh, Paul Woolger & Stuart Willis, 1987	19	Trad 10m
9	Chocolate Frog RHV / Chocolate Frog Variant Originally graded 17 (as was Chocolate Frog), so the grade has been bumped up by the same amount. Could someone please repeat both in the same day and provide feedback?! It is also believed that Peter Stebbins may have done a direct start into this line past a bolt, at grade 19. Confirmation of this would also be appreciated. FA: Stuart Willis, James McIntosh & Paul Woolger, 1987	19	Trad 10m
10	Caramello Koala This is the direct start with BR into Chocolate Frog done with Andrew Stevens FA: Pete Stebbins, Pete Stebbins, Andrew Stevens 16-6-91 & Andrew Stevens, 1991	19	Trad 13m
11	★ Jelly Baby Hard thin face moves past BRs onto sloping bulge FA: Andrew Stevens & Pete Stebbins, 1991	24	Sport 15m
12	★★ Gunga Din FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983	21	Trad 25m
13	Gunga Din DS / Gunga Din Direct Start Hard pumpy direct start (BR) into Gunga Din. FA: Scott Camps, 1987	25	Mixed trad 20m, 1
14	★ Flying Away Start as for Flying Blind. Either stick clip the high 1st RB or place a small cam or nut in FB. Up FB for a few moves before a move L up onto the face and vague arete. Up this and make a spectacular move over the roof on jugs to the lower off. FA: Matt Brooks, Oct 2017	24	Sport 15m, 5
15	★★ Flying Blind Takes the line up the proudest section of the orange wall. Climb pumpy overhang to the roof, R a few moves, then pull up and traverse spectacularly back L along the lip of the roof, and up. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983	23	Trad 25m
16	Sirdar Obvious jam cracks in wall 5m R of Flying Blind. Marked with a square. FA: Michael Wust & C Stewart, 1983	14	Trad 25m
17	Gone Troppo FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983	14	Trad 18m
18	Little Black Sambo	18	Trad 15m
19	Take Your Pick Has some loose rock. FA: Bruce Somerfield & Phil Benson, 1988	7 R	Trad 22m
20	Can't See	13	Trad 30m
21	Cucumber Sandwich This looks quite ok! Starts next to chossy chimney and climbs a rising traverse R, leading into a great looking traverse line. FA: Michael Wust & Kevin Lindorff, 1983	16	Trad 28m
22	Unknown Never written up, but reportedly a route has been done up the beautiful wall halfway along the 'Cucumber Sandwich' traverse.		Trad
23	★ Mongoose Start 15m R of the chossy chimney and immediately R of smooth orange wall. Up corner / arete, leading to a juggy chimney up high. FA: Michael Wust & Kevin Lindorff, 1983	13	Trad 20m
24	★ Go Mode FA: Wayne Maher, Iain Sedgman & Heather Philips, 1985	15	Trad 20m
25	★★ Who Was That Masked Man? Front of small buttress 5m R of Mongoose, straight up, finishing through small roof. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983	18	Trad 20m
26	Punky Brewster's Feet Smell	16	Trad 18m
27	Asian Suckoff	13	Trad 16m
28	★★ Arrete FA: Wayne Maher & Iain Sedgman, 1985	8	Trad 20m
29	Mr Ed	18	Trad 16m

2. Index by grade

Grade	Stars	Name	Style
7 R		Take Your Pick	Trad 22m
8	★★	Arrete	Trad 20m
10		Danny's Second Coming	Trad 20m
12		Raindogs	Trad 22m
13		Asian Suckoff	Trad 16m
		Bullamakanka	Trad 15m
		Can't See	Trad 30m
	★	Mongoose	Trad 20m
		Turtles, Baked Beans and Boodles	Trad 15m
		Twisties	Trad 15m
14		Gone Troppo	Trad 18m
		Sirdar	Trad 25m
15	★	Go Mode	Trad 20m
		Radar	Trad 15m
		Tightrope Act	Trad 20m
16		Cucumber Sandwich	Trad 28m
		Punky Brewster's Feet Smell	Trad 18m
18		Little Black Sambo	Trad 15m
		Mr Ed	Trad 16m
	★★	Who Was That Masked Man?	Trad 20m
19		Caramello Koala	Trad 13m
	★	Chocolate Frog	Trad 10m
		Chocolate Frog RHV	Trad 10m
21	★★	Gunga Din	Trad 25m
23	★★	Flying Blind	Trad 25m
24	★	Flying Away	Sport 15m, 5
	★	Jelly Baby	Sport 15m
25		Gunga Din DS	Mixed trad 20m, 1
?		Unknown	Trad