A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Jackson Allan Campbell Gome Andrew Clark Hywel Rowlands Simon Andreas Aachen Alex Holroyd Adam Flower benwiessner Bernii
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1. Tribute Wall Upper 12 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Tribute Wall Upper 12 routes in Sector
- Summary:
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Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: -36.895063, 142.387517
Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.
Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.
Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.
Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.
Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.
Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.
Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.
Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.
Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.
Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.
Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.
description
Some easier juggy sport climbs on weird blobby grey rock. Hidden away on a ledge system above the access track to VD Land. Gets earlier shade than some of the other crags here. Not a great place for kids and large groups due to the scrambly access and deep ravine.
access issues
Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd
approach
The approach is a little tricky. Scramble up right leading ramp to base of Koalasquasty Wall. Walk 50m left from Koalasquasty to short bit of rope hanging over rock step. Hand over hand up this then left across ledge to enter slot and routes. Parts of this may be marked with cairns. Routes start down in the base of this slot. Take care not to fall down or drop things into the crevasse below the belay chockstones!
ethic
Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.
Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.
===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===
For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
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1 |
★ Pink Void
A bit of faffing about to get climbing. Located on the far left end of the crag. To start the climb you need to rig a belay from ring bolts. Head down left side of void (facing VD Land) climb down trick void, bridge accross, clip bolt, unclip first bolt once the second is clipped, pull onto face and up left and up the orange wall. | 18 | 15m, 6 | |||||
2 |
★★ Cool Crux Clan
A big low traverse left from the chockstone belay then up the grey juggy wall. Tricky mantle to finish. | 20 | 18m | |||||
3 |
★ Pant Tearer
Bouldery crux. First bolt of 'Back Stabbath' then slight left leading line which punches through a small orange shield of great rock. Bottom is a bit sandy. | 22 | 16m | |||||
4 |
★★ Back Stabbath
The original route on the wall and probably the best. Featured steep wall climbing. Slight left trending route with a bouldery middle section on slopey holds. A mix of ubolts and fixed hangers. FA: Neil Monteith, 2005 | 21 | 17m, 6 | |||||
5 |
★★ Surface Eaters
Takes the black water streak with a super cool and unlikey jump move from make believe holds. FA: Kent Paterson | 26 | 17m, 7 | |||||
6 |
★ Olympic Airways
Quite a bouldery little number. Translation - it's a sandbag! Start at first bolt of LIT then climb straight up with a series of really tough sideclings and no feet. Nick Sutter fell off this. | 23 | 15m, 7 | |||||
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
7 |
★ Lost in Translation
Starts on the chockstone down in the slot. Very pleasant right trending wall climbing with a punchy pumpy finish. | 19 | 17m, 7 | |||||
8 |
★★ The Suburbs
One of the best easier sport routes in the 'Grampians'. Knob ridden terrain with a slight left trending line. Fixed hangers and lower-off. | 16 | 15m, 6 | |||||
9 |
★★ Manic Streak Features
Start 2-3 metres left of McHammer at small orange scoop and orange streak below the horizontal crack. Climb directly up a series of the larger short and manic crack lines. A steep exciting end. A large lose block sitting comfortably at the top of this climb is tempting to use as a hold. The McHammer chains can be used after a short right traverse. FA: Hywel Rowlands & Jayden Andrea, 2 Apr 2016 | 19 | 17m | |||||
10 |
★ MC Hammer Drill
Third route from the right on the wall on grey juggy rock - which actually isn't that juggy! Fixed hangers. | 18 | 16m, 5 | |||||
11 |
★ Powderfingers
WATCH OUT FOR LEDGE FALL POTENTIAL! Up the wall through orange scoops to ledge. A long sling may help for bolt in cave otherwise rope drag may be an issue. | 24 | 15m, 5 | |||||
12 |
★ Fake News
Bouldery start leads up edge of black groove to a rest. Cool finish up rib feature. FA: Kent Paterson | 23 | 15m, 5 |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
16 | ★★ | The Suburbs | 15m, 6 | ||
18 | ★ | MC Hammer Drill | 16m, 5 | ||
★ | Pink Void | 15m, 6 | |||
19 | ★ | Lost in Translation | 17m, 7 | ||
★★ | Manic Streak Features | 17m | |||
20 | ★★ | Cool Crux Clan | 18m | ||
21 | ★★ | Back Stabbath | 17m, 6 | ||
22 | ★ | Pant Tearer | 16m | ||
23 | ★ | Fake News | 15m, 5 | ||
★ | Olympic Airways | 15m, 7 | |||
24 | ★ | Powderfingers | 15m, 5 | ||
26 | ★★ | Surface Eaters | 17m, 7 |