Routes in Far Right

The L-most line on the wall takes the far L edge of the steep band of rock. Bolt anchors on the ledge. Has currently only been top-roped.

The impressive upper hanging corner is even better than it looks. Start beneath a high hanging corner toward the left end of the crag. Up easily past two bolt runners to the terrace. Up into and up the steep/hanging, left-facing, rust-brown corner (3 more FHs) and on to easier ground and rap rings.

Starts as for Strange Fruit, about 10-12m right of Dancing with the Demagogue. Up S. F. for the first four bolts until, where S.F angles very slightly right into the base of the major corner-line, this route goes straight up (five more BRs) to its own rap rings.

Take a 70m rope (or two shorter ropes). The top half, in particular, of this long, technical pitch is delightful. Heads up easily enough to gain the base of a left-facing corner. The rock in the upper section is exquisite. 12 BRs to double rings.

Starts about 20m right of Strange Fruit and 2m left of Divine Right. Easily up to the first terrace (1FH). Climb the undercut start and around the bulging roof to the wall above (about a metre and a half left of where Divine Right makes its own way through the undercut wall) and up this (2FHs) to the second terrace. Up and slightly right is a rust-coloured right-leaning corner - lovely moves up this past 3 FHs to an airy exit. Double bolt anchor (rings).

Starts: approx. 2m right of The War on Truth and approx. 3m left of Eternal Bosom of Hot Love. Easily up (1 BR) to first terrace. Around the undercut start at the right edge of the roof and steeply onward (three BRs in this section) to the next terrace. Just right of the rust coloured corner of The War on Truth is a short, shallow, hanging corner inset into a blunt arête. Awkward moves around the undercut start to access this corner then up it and beyond to an airy exit (3BRs in this section to gain the anchors -chains).

EBoHL was one of Kim Jon Il’s 1200 self-proclaimed titles. Starts about 3m right of Divine Right and 4m left of a tree. Easily up a shallow corner and easy stances. Climb through the orange corner then steep laybacking and bridging through stepped rooflets. 9FHs. After the hostilities finish, move 3m metres up and right to the rap rings of Let Them Eat Cake.

Starts perhaps 5m right of EBoHL. Easily up 2 or 3 metres to the bulging wall just right of the corner line. Carefully up to clip the first bolt runner, then a bouldery couple of moves up to easier ground. Continue up via perhaps 7 more bolts to a double ring rap station. (n.b. the crux start can be avoided by starting a few metres to the left then angling up easily (2 BRs) to join the original climb. This gives a slightly easier route, 21/22, with the top section becoming the crux.)

The relatively short route toward the right end of the cliff. Follow the BRs up and tending left, taking the path of least resistance. Double bolt anchor.

Very loose with dubious pro.

Start: About two-thirds of the way along the cliff (from the left) is a cairned, square-cut grey groove. limb this,then move up right under steep orange rock. Go up to break. Left for 2m round nose to ledge. Up and right to hard exit to ledge. Short wall. Abseil from tree 30m to right.