Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
27 | ★★★ Desert Rose
Another superb line. The best 27 in the 'Grampians' - although most think its actually 28! Start: Start about 8m R of After Midnight. FA: HB, 1994 | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ||
23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams
A beautiful gobsmacking line. The manky old carrots at the start have now been placed with rings. A long stick-clip is required as the crux is the start. Start: Start 3m R of the base of the rock step separating the upper and lower tiers of the crag. FA: Keith Lockwood, Malcolm Matheson & Norm Booth, 1991 | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ||
20 | ★★★ Twentieth Century Fox
Simply awesome. Sustained, technical and amazing climbing the whole way. Start: As you walk up to the cliff you chimney just past the start (on a sloping ledge to your left) before you get to a ledge and big flat rock up on your right (great place for photos). FA: Chris Baxter, Michael Stone & David Gairns, 1978 | 50m | Victoria Range | ||
26 | ★★★ Archimedes' Principle
"Any object, wholly or partially immersed in a fluid, is buoyed up by a force equal to the weight of the fluid displaced by the object." Routes like this are why you travel for hours/days to get to the 'Grampians'. First 2 pitches are often worked in 1 pitch from the ground. Start: Start under a low bolt at the base of the most impressive part of the wall.
FA: Keith Lockwood (p1), Steve Monks (p2 & 3), 1991 | 60m, 3, 2 | Victoria Range | ||
19 | ★★ Do You Mind If l Smoke?
The best route in the area of it's grade. Starts 4m right of A Burnt Out Case at small roof/overlap. Seams and horizontals to open book corner and tricky final face. FA: Terry Tremble, Kieran Loughran & Paul Vlahovic, 1984 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
12 | ★ Hippy Chick
The grey face around right of the cave. Up weird chimney-crack, left along horizontal and climb pocketed wall above. FA: Matilda Schmitt, Gary Schmitt & Reignforest Burgerlent, 1990 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
18 | ★ Bug Powder Dust
Can be done in 2 pitches, belay from the large ledge at half way. May add another bolt. Start on the left of the grey arete. Follow 2 BR to ledge (possible belay). Straight up past another bolt for 6m then step right to finish up juggy arête. Anchors to descend to the right on top of The Extension Lead or walk off back. FA: Jill Gara, Michael O'Reilly & Robin Holmes, 2003 | 27m | Victoria Range | ||
15 | ★ Height of Darkness
Face with three BRs (then natural protection) opposite Fat Fingered Freak. There is a large chain fixed around chicken heads for belay/lower off FA: Neil Monteith & Jacqui Middleton, 2003 | 20m, 3 | Victoria Range | ||
23 | ★★ Variance
One of the best routes here but requires trad and bolt plates so not hugely popular. Varied climbing! Starts 5m right of 'Fat Fingered Freak'. Stick clip RB from block. Jump for jug and mantle onto ledge. Clip BR and step right then trend back left along sloping orange edge (BR) to under cracked bulge. Pull through this strenuously protected by wires to jug at base of small corner. Clip BR; stem into corner for a few moves then reach out left to escape hold that leads to jugs and top. Single u-bolt lower-off WARNING - single clip and go anchor could be unsafe - please thread direct through Ubolt rather than using the biner. Single set of wires and a finger size cam is the only trad gear required. FA: Neil Monteith | 18m, 4 | Victoria Range | ||
27 | ★★★ Passport to Insanity
1
20
50m
2
27
20m
3
18
40m
"The best line in Australia...". Also notable for the fact that Nyrie Dodd's free ascent was the first Aussie female ascent of a grade 27. The second pitch roof-crack could hardly be in a better position. This is also a superb mixed climb at 20, M2 if the roof is aided. Sadly it is often under-estimated and the detritus of retreat is often evident. It is not a practice route. The start is rather obvious.
FA: K. Lockwood & J Friend, 1974 FFA: Nyrie Dodd, 1986 | 110m, 3 | Victoria Range | ||
18 | ★★★ Darwin's Theory (1st 2 pitches)
Survival of the fittest. Described without the third pitch so that it gets noticed as a fantastic 2 pitch 18. Start: Start as for Newton's Law.
FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1991 | 55m, 2 | Victoria Range | ||
5 | ★★ Vanya Was A Black Feral Cat In Drag
Good. Much better protection than Nice Puss Climb the wall midway between two flake lines to a crack at half-height. Finish up the crack. FA: Neil Barr, Glen Donohue & Andrew Webb, 1988 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
18 | ★ A Burnt Out Case
Climb up pillar into large crack, follow up over bulge, traverse right on horizontal seam to centre of the face, then straight up line to ledge before roof, chains are on right of ledge. FA: Kieran Loughran & Kevin Lindorff, 1984 | 25m | Victoria Range | ||
18 | ★★★ Roraima
Obvious crack splitting the orange tower.Straight up all the stepped overhangs. FA: Malcolm Matheson & Keith Lockwood, 2003 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
22 | ★★★ Return to Gariwerd
Lovely climbing with excellent protection. Begin on the right edge of the blank orange shield. Up thin broken crack stepping left to flake then straight up the grey streak. The original route stopped here and descent was by scrambling off right with a possible rappel. However, a fantastic new finish was added in 2003 by Josh Janes: Instead of stopping/belaying, hand traverse straight left under the roof for 15 meters. The difficulty increases as the wall below becomes steeper and handholds become more spaced. Eventually gain a good stance at the end of the roof and belay from a bolted anchor (added in 2017). Rap from here with a single 70m rope (a single 60m rope might reach - watch your ends). FA: Louise Shepherd & Simon Mentz | 35m | Victoria Range | ||
19 | ★★ Tortoise
The enjoyable vague arete 6 metres right of the chimney-cleft to the terrace. Originally done as two pitches but pitch two is rarely repeated and is described separately (Turning Turtle) There is a rap anchor above YTTDF FA: Ed Neve & Gary Wills, 1981 | 25m | Victoria Range | ||
17 | ★★ Begegnung
Nice line, nice climbing. Good rock. Retro-bolted accidentally. Step on chockstone below open book corner in the middle of the wall to gain good horizontal break. Move right on mossy slab into corner proper. Up past FH to steep well protected conclusion. Rap station on ledge. FA: Craig Nottle, Graham Sanders, Glenn Donahue & Russel Paul, 1980 | 20m, 1 | Victoria Range | ||
16 | ★ Head Over Heels
The grey wall just before the entrance to the gully. FA: Glenn Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1990 | 22m | Victoria Range | ||
19 | ★★ Golden Ghetto Greper
Up subtle wall, starting from small platform immediately right of orange section. FA: Geoff Butcher & Gary Schmitt, 1990 | 18m | Victoria Range | ||
16 | ★ Bulbous Bellies
Wall straight up and right of Golden Ghetto Greper. FA: Glen Tempest & Michael Hampton, 1990 | 18m | Victoria Range | ||
26 | ★★★ Red Rain
One of the best. Big central line of the cliff. Starts in middle of wall left of bird poo. Mantle past amazing hole and up slopes past FH to stance (fist sized cam). Tricky moves up and left under roofs past 2 FHs leads to an airy traverse past an old piton (back up with small cam), then a final gnarly bulgy crack with fixed nut. Finish as for Cloud Nine. 3 FHs & Trad. FA: Glen Tempest, 1990 | 25m, 3 | Victoria Range | ||
17 | ★ Masticating Mice
Sensational overhanging corner on left side of the wall. Exit right at the fianl roof, which can also be climbed direct. FA: James McIntosh & Peter Watling, 1989 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
25 | ★★★ Vege Maths
Amazing line.Finishes at SC anchors. FA: Toby Pola & Kent Paterson | 30m, 8 | Victoria Range | ||
19 | ★★ Used Platypus Condom
Steep pumpy jug hauling on orange rock. Located on upper wall deep inside chasm. Two RB's to start then medium gear to DRB lower off. FA: Neil Monteith | 16m | Victoria Range | ||
23 | ★★★ Eau Rouge
Flake and steep orange wall right of Redline. 3 FHs and full rack required. Rap chain. Can get down with a 60m rope FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 2009 | 32m, 3 | Victoria Range | ||
18 R | ★★ Twentieth Century Black Feral Cat
Classic climbing up the middle of the black slab. It gets an R rating due to a few exciting runouts, although gear shows up when it's needed - except for the final moves from which you do not want to fall off. FA: Neil Barr & Peter Darby, 1983 | 45m | Victoria Range | ||
15 | ★★ Catwalk
Hardly the north face of the Eiger but still a classic long, easy route. The route is much better finished up 'The Flying Dutchman' than The Exit Cracks but for now we'll leave the write-up as is. Start: Start 30 metres left of "John The Baptist" where a short wall leads to a ramp leading up right.
FA: Bob Jones, Robin Dunse & Jan Southwell, 1960 | 240m, 6 | Victoria Range | ||
17 | ★ Fox Trot
The crack on the arete left of "Foxfire" has a good start but then gets quite easy.
FA: Matt Taylor, Chris Baxter (alt) & Mike Stone. Direct Star : Steve Hains, 1990 | 44m, 2 | Victoria Range | ||
22 | ★★ Cloud Nine
A damn fine route which sees a lot of wingers off the crux move. Starts from the blocks left of the cave on the L side of 'Red Rain' Wall. Up easily to traverse right along horizontal crack to under the bulge. An easy dyno or mega reach is needed to reach the lip. Continue up obvious line to a stance. Short easy crack on right (which leads to rap chains) or if you still have some go go juice swing left up exciting juggy wall. FA: Stephen Hamilton & Glenn Tempest, 1990 | 30m | Victoria Range | ||
16 | ★★ Little Escapes
Obvious orange corner starting off a ledge, just a few metres right of "Hot Cross". Up technical corner to middle of roof and traverse easily left to stance. Scramble off left to rap tree on Hot Cross. There was originally a second pitch up corner and bulge but it adds little value. FA: Kieran Loughran & Peter Watling, 1981 | 35m | Victoria Range | ||
19 | ★★ Toucan
Rivals 'Roraima' as an instant classic.Takes the wall topped by a jutting triangular roof which underpins a hanging headwall.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Tim Lockwood (alt), 2003 | 60m, 2 | Victoria Range | ||
18 | ★ Purple Rain
Good line, pity about the poor rock quality and fiddly/crap protection. Not worth a star in my opinion. Start: About 4-5m right up the arete (start off the big boulder to it's right). Up the arete then left to finish up "Do You Mind If I Smoke?" and rap off at the ledge. | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
20 | ★ Maxwell's Demon
A thought experiment intended to show that the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics has only a statistical certainty. Start 4m L of Newton's Law. Wall just R of easy crack to ledge, trend R up grooves. FA: James & Melanie McIntosh with a rest or 2., 1992 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
16 | ★ Decapitating Tweety Birds
A bit sparse on gear in sections Start at a short groove in the right-hand face, 5 metres right of the right-hand flake. Climb the groove for 3 metres to a ledge. Step left and up the seam for 4 metres to a break. Follow break left for 4 metres to thin crack and up this, 1 metre right of flake line. FA: James McIntosh & Peter Watling, 1989 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
17 R | ★ Here Kitty
Not well-protected. Thin crack 1.5 metres left of the descent chimney. FA: Peter Treby & Neil Barr, 1988 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
22 | ★★ Oranges and Lemons
Up 'Flashman' to its first bolt, then follow the large flake feature skywards, past the occasional hollow block, to a piton and a FH. Belay off a tree at the top. | 20m, 3 | Victoria Range | ||
21 | ★★★ The Day of the Fox
Striking Orange and Grey corner that can be seen from the road. Perfect rock and a short bush bash from the carpark. A 28m abseil off tat at the end of the 2nd pitch makes it all rather convenient.
FA: Chris Baxter, Geoff Gledhill & Ian Ravenscroft, 1988 | 30m, 2 | Victoria Range | ||
26 | ★★★ Pythagoras' Theorem
a2 + b2 = c2. Prepare your groin for some hypotenuse action. The other ultra-classic line here. It's supposed to finish via the third pitch of "Darwin's Theory" but this is often ignored. Start: Start under the central corner.
FA: Keith Lockwood (1) & Steve Monks (2-3), 1991 | 50m, 2, 3 | Victoria Range | ||
23 | ★★ Horizon
The best line on the wall is now renamed. Starts at the right end of the obvious dyke and follows it all the way back left, finishing at the anchor of 'Mitra e Bello'. Take a number three rock or one camalot for between the second and third bolts. You also need a couple of small cams for the last section. FA: ross taylor, 2008 | 30m, 3 | Victoria Range | ||
22 | ★ Archimedes Principle P1
| 20m | Victoria Range | ||
13 | ★ Fizzio's Fizickle
Start off ledge on right side of face. Up through bulge and tend right. FA: Stuart & Lisa Imer, 1990 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
20 R | So, You Think You Can Dance?
Skanky. The arete with two RBs just right of 'Womble', via the undercut direct start. 'Missing' a third bolt. Stickclip first bolt, and step across from small block oposite to gain rock. Up very fragile mega jugs onto arete. Scamper up the left side (trying to avoid Womble). Place some marginal wires in fragile rock then go up and clip third FH of 'Dislocation' (with difficulty). Finish up the arete past another FH to lower-off. FA: Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2006 | 15m, 2 | Victoria Range | ||
24 | ★★ Newton's Law
Noddy's physics need a brush up...there are three Newton's laws, not one! Start under the nice thin crack on the L side of the wall. A great thin crack to the walk-off ledge. FA: Keith Lockwood & Steve Monks, 1991 | 30m | Victoria Range | ||
17 | ★★ Floaties
A very fine pitch. The unpopular second pitch is written up separately. FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loughran & Kevin Lindorff, 1983 | 25m | Victoria Range | ||
17 | ★★ The Voyage of Vasco Pyjama
A whimsical journey. Start 3 metres right of "Little Escapes" at a thin line just left of arete. Thin line then step right to shallow corner on arete. Up corner to ledge just right of large roof. Step left above the roof (?large cam handy) and climb leftwards up the face. FA: Kieran Loughran & Ian Anger, 1985 | 35m | Victoria Range | ||
24 | ★★ Wave of Mutilation
A tricky crux on sensational turtle shell rock. The route begins at the left hand end of the Trench. Follow three FH to a chain anchor. A #2 Rock will protect the start, or stick-clip the first bolt. FA: Tim Marsh | 12m | Victoria Range | ||
23 | ★ But I Didn't Inhale
Great line up the centre of the wall. Committing start on pockets up to bolts & crack/overlaps, crossing A Burnt Out Case halfway. FA: rob booth & steve chapman | 18m, 4 | Victoria Range | ||
15 | ★ John The Baptist
An interesting climb and the hardest climb on the cliff for many years. Originally the climb finished up "Catwalk" but it is convenient to leave it at the Gallery Window. Start: Start at the initialled orange and grey corner just left of "Temple Of Doom", 15 metres right of where the track meets the cliff.
FA: Gordon Talbett, Peter McKeand. Pitch 3 direct start : Kieran Lougharn & Meg Sleeman Easter., 1988 | 110m, 3 | Victoria Range | ||
17 | ★★ Sahara
Sustained and great.
FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt) Geoff Gledhill, 1989 | 90m | Victoria Range | ||
17 | ★ Wildcat
The crack, taking the right-hand branch near the top with some doubtful holds. Start: On the same block as 'Pangur Ban', 3 metres right of the arete. FA: Peter Watling & Simon Todman, 1991 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
16 | ★ Anne Boleyn
One of the better climbs on the crag. No longer a chop route. Claimed by several parties but Mick was first. Climb the corner 1 metre right of Sexual Blur to the horizontal break. Step right and up the overhanging crack. FA: Mick Hampton & George Gibson, 1983 | 18m | Victoria Range | ||
21 | ★★ Casiquiare
Great climbing up a corner followed by a series of overhangs.Start down left of 'Roraima' and climb initial wall on pockets, trending right into the line.Straight up line all the way. FA: Malcolm Matheson, Tim Lockwood & Keith Lockwood, 2003 | 25m | Victoria Range | ||
14 | ★ Pangur Ban
Up right of the overhang on the arete, move left below the small bulge and straight up on steep grey rock. Start: Start at the left arete of the detached block. FA: Mike Wust | 15m | Victoria Range | ||
12 | ★★ Leo
The small orange corner. An energetic start off the ground on the arete directly under the roof. Up to the roof, step left and up. FA: Campbell Mercer & Peter Seidel, 1991 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
22 | ★★ Popeye
The original trad line of the crag. Starts in the pocket patch off the ledge on the left side of the wall. | 35m | Victoria Range | ||
6 | ★ Who Is Vanya?
Face 2 metres left of "Nice Puss", about 1 metre right of the descent chimney. FA: Campbell Mercer & Peter Seidel, 1991 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
12 | ★ Hypokinesic
| 25m | Victoria Range | ||
14 | Wimbleton
Directly opposite 'Strike the First Blow', is a juggy wall. Start a few metres right and climb the grey face which gets easier the higher you get. At the small red cave climb out the overhung right side and up easily to ledge. There is a mystery bolted rap anchor in the cave. FA: Gay Welders Union, 2002 | 40m | Victoria Range | ||
10 | ★ Flea Bait
The crack just left of "Here Kitty", starting on the right and joining the crack above the bush. FA: Peter Watling & James McIntosh, 1989 | 15m | Victoria Range | ||
17 | Tickets Please
Start up Hippy Chick and continue directly up face above. FA: Glenn Tempest, Michael Hampton & Peter Woodfield, 1990 | 18m | Victoria Range | ||
26 | ★★ Screaming Trees
Start: Just right of 'The Generator Route'. Up past 3 FH's and wires to horizontal break. Arrange gear then right up to 4th FH. Thin moves over bulge brings some relief and good pro in seam. More hard moves over small roof to buckets. Traverse left to belay. FA: Steve Chapman & Steven Wilson, 2003 | 25m, 4 | Victoria Range | ||
25 | ★★★ Orinoco Flow
Mind-blowing roof and arete. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 2000 | 30m, 1 | Victoria Range | ||
16 | ★ Lotus Flower Tower Revisited
Nothing at all like its namesake but it's not as far to walk. Start around the arete at the right-hand end of the cliff, 3 metres right of 'Catch It'. Thin crack and wall above, being careful not to escape to the left. FA: Peter Cunningham, Keith Egerton & Peter Watling, 1978 | 10m | Victoria Range | ||
17 | ★★★ Cyclops
A fantastic route - it's like an easier version of Archimedes Principle (Eureka Wall)! The rock is superbly featured, but it can be rather brittle (esp on first pitch).
FA: Keith Lockwood & Parrish Robbins, 1990 | 80m | Victoria Range | ||
21 | ★★ White Pointer
follow crack on R side of arete until it ends at horizontal. A few moves up the face takes you to crack and arete to top. | 30m | Victoria Range | ||
19 | ★★ Lion-Ardo
The discontinuous line 2.5 metres left of Meow. Step off the block just to left of Meow, move diagonally left to the thin crack that finishes at a small flake. Up the line, over the flake and up. FA: Campbell Mercer & Julie Nitschke, 1991 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
18 | ★ Slug
Again, a good first pitch and vaguely described second pitch. Start at the chimney as for "Snail".
FA: Ed Neve & Gary Wills, 1981 | 50m, 2 | Victoria Range | ||
16 | ★★ Arrows of Desire
A pleasant mixture of slab climbing and exposed but juggy face-climbing. Start below central rib, on face R of 'bowl'. 1) 12m Climb the slab and veer R to belay at the L end of a ledge, at a tree. 2) 40m Go up L on to the slabby rib and climb it to the little roof. Go L and pull through the weakness. Up to the next roof, over it, and up cracks to the top. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1987 | 52m | Victoria Range | ||
17 | Lion Premiums
Steeper than you expect. Start: The middle of the orange wall on the detached block. FA: Peter Treby & Neil Barr, 1990 | 15m | Victoria Range | ||
19 | ★ Slap and Tickle
Start on ledge. Up and left to ledge of capping block. You can go directly up and over roof at 21. FA: Glenn Tempest, Kate Hilton & Edward Young, 1996 | 18m | Victoria Range | ||
16 | ★★ Whipping Boy
Excellent adventure climbing following the obvious curving line on the L end of the cliff. Generally sound rock and good holds compensate for the tasty steepness. Start at L end of wall at corner under roof.
FA: Chris Baxter & Maureen Gallagher (alt) Sue Baxter, 1987 | 80m | Victoria Range | ||
26 | ★★ Yurtle the Turtle Direct Finish
Used to be graded 27, it is probably easy for 26. The obvious finish to this great route. Instead of veering off left after the first bolt continue straight up past a second bolt. Both bolts are new (2012) and there is a rap anchor above. FA: Steve Monks, 1993 | 25m, 2 | Victoria Range | ||
23 | ★★ Diminishing Returns (Top Half)
Start as for Darwin's Theory for 10m then blast straight up orange wall past very spaced bolts and finish up grey headwall. FA: Kent Paterson, 2012 | 30m, 5 | Victoria Range | ||
16 | ★★★ Patagonia
Climbing in superb positions up the most imposing line on the wall. The first ascent was completed in true Patagonian conditions; gale force winds, torrential rain and hail. FA: Dave Gairns & Chris Baxter (alt), 1988 | 130m | Victoria Range | ||
22 R | ★★ Finger Sighs
Despite the addition of a bolt on the initial arete this is still fairly bold.
FA: Mike Law, 1983 | 50m, 2 | Victoria Range | ||
21 | ★★ Grand Central
| 65m | Victoria Range | ||
18 R | ★ Quincas Borba
The siuous corner just left of the chasm separating thePassport pinnacle from the main massif.
FA: Keith Lockwood & David Shirra, 1977 | 140m, 4 | Victoria Range | ||
30 R | ★★★ Breathing Gasoline
A very impressive line blasting out the biggest part of this massive overhang, on beautiful red stone. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times. Start as for Nomads. Start as for Nomads but stay on the hanging arete/nose, then follow the line of holds rightwards and outwards forever. FA: Julian Saunders, 2000 | 28m | Victoria Range | ||
19 | ★★ Picking Plums
Starts 30m left of 'Wild Iris'. In the middle of the wall is several cracklines; this climbs the furthest right one, approx in the middle of the wall. Absorbing rounded holds and the steep angle keep you guessing right until the end. The gear is abundant but fiddly in shallow, scoopy cracks. Rap anchor. FA: Neil Monteith & Nick McKinnon, 2002 | 17m | Victoria Range | ||
23 | ★★ Flashman
An excellent pumper! Up the crack of White Pointer for a few metres, then boldly wobble your way right to ramp and up to ledge. Four carrot bolts lead the way. Belay off a tree at the top. FA: Glenn Tempest, 1991 | 20m, 4 | Victoria Range | ||
15 | ★★ The Final Edition
The slabby grey wall right of Head Over Heels Start at obvious tree, up to left end of huge cave, continue up line above. FA: Gary Schmitt & Matilda Schmitt, 1990 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
5 R | Nice Puss
Not very well protected The wall and flake just left of Vanya Was A Black Feral Cat In Drag. FA: Peter Treby, 1988 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
25 | ★★ Schrodinger's Cat
Kitty is simultaneously alive and dead ... until you look. Start 15m R of 'Pythagoras Theorem'. Short steep corner crack then L up ramp past bolt. Back R through overlap to 3 more bolts up the wall above. FA: Steve Monks & Martin Scheel, 1991 | 45m, 4 | Victoria Range | ||
20 | ★ I'm Black and I'm Proud
Variant finish to Bug Powder Dust. Starts at the BR off the ledge, as for 2nd pitch of Bug Powder Dust. Climb the left side of the pale central streak directly through top bulge. Swing right to top out (or continue straight up for a more exciting finale). Blackness courtesy of the previous week’s Vicparks “controlled burn” (and it's a quote from The Commitments). FA: W Monks, N Cotton, C Barrett & M O'Reilly, 2003 | 15m, 1 | Victoria Range | ||
27 | ★★ String Theory
Start: Start as for AP
Adam Demmert and John Schmit climbed pitch 1 in 2009. The Adam and Malcolm did the second in 2014 FFA: adam demmert, jono schmidt & Malcolm Matherson, 17 Nov 2014 | 80m, 2, 8 | Victoria Range | ||
29 R | ★★ Red Vinyl
Quite close to Nomads but it still looks great. The usual warning applies about having only a single bolt between you and the ground at times. Start as for Nomads. Break R from Nomads after the 1st bolt, then follow the line of holds 1.5m R of Nomads. It's a shame it finishes in the middle of nowhere at the last bolt a few metres before the lip. There's no anchor - either trust the ring or back-clean it. FA: Simon Atkins, 2000 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
21 | ★★ Humboldt
Start up pockets as for 'Cosmos', then traverse right along break.Up past BR and continue up line past another BR to rap station at roof (just to the right). FA: Malcolm Matheson & Keith Lockwood, 2003 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
14 | ★ Meow
Thin line just left of "Flea Bait". FA: Peter Treby, 1988 | 15m | Victoria Range | ||
23 | ★★ I Hear the Rain
Climb the leaning corner to a roof. Scary moves gain the lip of the roof. Hand traverse left to a shallow corner and pull up for a rest. finish easily. FA: Keith Egerton, Kieran Loiughran & Louise Shepherd, 1984 | 35m | Victoria Range | ||
17 | ★ Reynard's Last Run
Start: Start at the chimney just left of "Fox On The Run"
FA: Chris Baxter, Matt Taylor & Mike Stone, 1976 | 44m, 2 | Victoria Range | ||
18 | ★ Coldilocks and the Three Brrs
Up corner. Finish up crack on the L. | 26m | Victoria Range | ||
25 | ★★ Yurtle the Turtle
Sustained and intricate climbing on the immaculate wall right of "Tortoise". Climb the best bit of the wall past a bolt then veer left to easier ground. FA: James Falla & Simon Mentz, 1989 | 25m, 1 | Victoria Range | ||
26 | ★★★ Bristol Fashion
The left arete of the buttress.
FA: Steve Monks & Damien Carol, 1991 | 45m, 2, 6 | Victoria Range | ||
25 | ★★ Mitra e Bello/The Gloaming Direct link up
Takes in the cruxes of both routes. Start up MeB at the dike move into TGD. FFA: adam demmert, 2009 | 30m | Victoria Range | ||
19 | ★ Olive Oyl
The easy option when everything else is too hard! Nice jug hauling spoilt by a dirty halfway ledge. Starts about 80m right of Popeyed and in centre of south facing wall on a separate buttress behind 'Wellington Wimpy'. Up left facing flake to vegetated ledge. Swing up overhung wall above trending left to bollard belay. FA: Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt, 2003 | 20m | Victoria Range | ||
17 | Not Raving But Climbing
A good mixture with jamming and technical face climbing. Start on the left wall of the descent gully at a hand-crack in a black face. Climb the crack up the black face to a ledge (belay possible). Continue in the shallow corner which fades out below the final exciting bulge. FA: Neil Barr & Peter Watling, 1985 | 45m | Victoria Range | ||
16 | ★ No Habla Espanol
On the South East face of the pinnacle is a bottomless wide crack. Up crack (crux) on good gear then head left up rampy corner. Finish up vertical crack on jugs. Rap from bolt anchors above Je Ne Parle Pas Francais. FA: Marcel Geelen & Jac Cutter, 2002 | 14m | Victoria Range | ||
17 | ★★ Lethargic Liver
The obvious easy-angled arete at the top of the gully. FA: Geoff Butcher, 1990 | 18m | Victoria Range | ||
12 | ★★ And The Mice Screamed
Start in same groove as "Decapitating Tweety Birds" and at the break continue directly up the wall. FA: Campbell Mercer, 1991 | 23m | Victoria Range | ||
15 | ★★ Chariot Of Fire
Similar climbing to 'Arrows of Desire' but steeper and on even better holds. Start just R of the Ballad of Idwal 'Slabs', 4m L of the little corner. 1) 16m Climb the slab to a ledge. 2) 36m Climb the wall directly above to finish up twin cracks. FA: Chris & Sue Baxter, 1987 | 52m | Victoria Range |