A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Nick Murphy
Jared Tyerman
Damien
Cris
Trent Williams
craig gilbert
Marc dM
Lucas Boudaud
craig gilbert
Glen Hayford
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Innisfail
68 in Area
-
1.1.
Flying Fish Point 9 routes in Area
- 1.1.1. Flying Fish Point North 6 routes in Field
- 1.1.2. Flying Fish Point South / Boat Ramp Area 3 routes in Field
- 1.2. Browns Beach 1 routes in Area
-
1.3.
Etty Bay 44 routes in Area
- 1.3.1. Etty Bay North 39 routes in Area
- 1.3.2. Etty Bay South 5 routes in Field
- 1.4. Mourilyan Harbour 13 routes in Area
- 1.5. North Barnard Islands 1 routes in Area
-
1.1.
Flying Fish Point 9 routes in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Innisfail
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -17.566140, 145.988555
description
Mostly coastal crags with few climbs.
1.1. Flying Fish Point
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -17.486423, 146.074901
summary
Small crags offering some easy problems for those who happen to be in the area.
description
Two small crags within a few minutes drive of each other offering problems on sandstone seaside rock with varying degrees of fun.
access issues
The north crag is within National Park boundaries so all rules need to be followed regarding this. Most areas only accessible at low tide as base of problems will be submerged during high tide.
approach
From Innisfail head north-east out of town on Flying Fish Point Road, the first crag you'll reach is the southern one, head north another 5 minutes for the northern area. See individual areas for more precise directions.
where to stay
Accommodation available in Flying Fish Point, either the caravan park or AirBnB are available.
ethic
Clean up your rubbish including finger tape and orange/citrus peels, and please take out other rubbish you find.
1.1.1. Flying Fish Point North
- Summary:
-
6 routes in Field
Lat / Long: -17.475728, 146.072686
summary
Scattering of boulder problems north of Ella Bay
description
Small number of problems scattered along the coastline on various outcrops on soft to good quality sandstone.
A lot of one move wonder mantle problems around, with a handful of climbs that actually go up more than a metre. Everything has been scouted between the beach access to the north back to the established carpark. Could squeeze in one or two more around what's already here, especially at 'Crumbly Characters' or 'Pillar Of Stinky Fish'
access issues
Only accessible at low tide, base of most routes will be submerged in high tide. Within Ella Bay National Park so abide by all National Park Rules. No Camping here.
approach
Navigate to Flying Fish Point from Innisfail and head north out of town and park at -17.481145,146.077199. From here walk North along the beach and you'll reach the first problem, the rest north from here.
where to stay
Accommodation available back in Flying Fish Point or Innisfail. Don't camp here.
ethic
No chipping holds, no marking the start of problems, clean up your rubbish which includes finger tape and orange peels and take out whatever else you find even if it's not yours.
history
Listed by Nick Murphy in 2020.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
El Slope
Stand start on the chockstone, use small pockets to head straight up and slightly left over the void to top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | V0 | 2m | |||||
2 |
Crumbly Characters
Kind of soft sandstone (a lot crumbled away on FA) but not terrible, just test your holds first. Stand start at base of wall, make your way straight up tallest part of the wall to the left of the central crack. Descend to the left. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | V0 | 4m | |||||
3 |
As Easy As Fishing
Sit start at base of arete, pull up, stand up, grab the top, easy mantle over. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | VB- | 2m | |||||
4 |
The Ol' Thongsight Ascent
Sit start at base of left facing arete, pull up through jugs, stop when you reach the vegetation and jump down. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | VB | 2m | |||||
5 |
Jumping Starfish
Sit start on the sand on jugs and head straight up to the right of 'The Ol' Thongsight Ascent'. Stop when you get to the vegetation and jump down. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | VB | 2m | |||||
6 |
★ Pillar Of Stinky Fish
Sit on the boulder at the base, grab the left hand arete and jugs up the face till you have both hands on the top, then climb back down. Watch out for fish hooks on the base boulder, First Ascender caught two in the hand the day it was done. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | V0 | 3m | |||||
|
1.1.2. Flying Fish Point South
- Summary:
-
3 routes in Field
Lat / Long: -17.504315, 146.076302
summary
Potential area just around the headland near the boat ramp at the mouth of the Johnstone River.
description
Small spot with a few fun little problems, and potential for a couple more. Climbs on well featured sandstone, easy access and nice scenic spot.
approach
Park at -17.504236,146.076386 / Flying Fish Point Boat Ramp. Head East across the park out of the carpark looking for the gap in the trees, this should bring you straight to the boulders.
history
Problems listed by Nick Murphy in 2020.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ McCrabby Patty
On the wall facing back to the carpark. Sit start at base of flake following this up and topping out at highest point of boulder. Plenty of jugs. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | VB | 3m | |||||
2 |
★ Pondsy Scheme
Sit start on the edge of the pond in the tiny cave. Hands on the horizontal break and smear feet, throw for the jugs above and pull up and over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | V0 | 2m | |||||
3 |
Snap and Crab
Sit start at the base of the obvious flake on the sea side (watch for small crabs in the holds), follow this up until on top. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | V0 | 2m |
1.2. Browns Beach
- Summary:
-
1 route in Area
Lat / Long: -17.533145, 146.073714
approach
Access by boat only, the climb is accessed via parking the boat at the nearby beach and then walking along the coastal rocks. A short climb on soft rock.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Un-named
FA: Craig Gilbert | 14 | 15m |
1.3. Etty Bay
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -17.557461, 146.091309
summary
Great seaside spot with plenty of easy through to moderate problems, and the best selection of highballs around
description
East facing beach crag with great climbing and nice easterly breezes making for perfect afternoon sessions once it's in the shade. Mix of highballs and harder lines.
Also plenty of more potential for anyone willing to walk further north past the current established area, very craggy looking coastline so the potential is there.
approach
Navigate to Etty Bay via Etty Bay Road, then either drive to the very end of the street but park outside the campground for the North area, or take the first right when you reach the beach and follow this all the way south for the South area.
where to stay
Etty Bay Caravan Park - https://www.ettybaycaravanpark.com.au/ No other camping is permitted in the area, nearest accommodation is back in Innisfail.
ethic
Please take your rubbish and any you find out with you. Be mindful of brushing tick marks. Respect the wildlife i.e. the cassowaries.
history
Original development by craig gilbert, Damien, and Warren Harding around the 90s. Then Nick Murphy in 2020.
1.3.1. Etty Bay North
- Summary:
-
39 routes in Area
Lat / Long: -17.554144, 146.090698
summary
Great seaside spot with plenty of easy through to moderate problems, and the best selection of highballs around
description
East facing beach crag with great climbing and nice easterly breezes making for perfect afternoon sessions once it's in the shade. Plenty of tall problems for those who want to try out highball problems, and a few harder ones still in development.
Also plenty of more potential for anyone willing to walk further north past the current established area, very craggy looking coastline so the potential is there.
Access can be difficult at high tide, and also limits what problems don't have their starts underwater, suggest timing with low tides.
access issues
Keep it clean, take your rubbish and any you find out with you, plenty of tourists and locals around who could make access difficult if we don't keep it clean.
Brush off big chalk marks, don't use huge tick marks. Don't harass the big birds either.
approach
Navigate to Etty Bay then drive to the very end of the street but park outside the campground. Walk north on the beach around the headland until you reach a 2nd sandy cove. Keep walking around the next headland and you will reach the crag. Climbs are listed as you walk from South to North
where to stay
Camping is easy at the Etty Bay camp sites.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Grater WallThe first main wall you come to, facing North-East and distinct due to it's tall problems and pocketed as hell | ||||||||
2 |
★ Falling Tall
Sit start at the base of the right facing arete, head straight up and trend left up the bulge to the top. Great easy highball to get accustomed to the height. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | V0 | 6m | |||||
3 |
★ High as a Fridge
Sit start at base of right facing flake. Pull on and trend right up the tallest part of the wall hugging the bulge above the huecos/large pockets. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | V1 | 7m | |||||
4 |
★ Fly with Etty-Hard
Sit start at the base of the deep right facing flake, follow up through to the jugs and pockets up top and your topping out on the rounded horn. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | V1 | 7m | |||||
5 |
★ Gonna Need A Lawyer For That Stare-Case
The obviously easy ultra-juggy staircase face to the left. Of the corner with plenty of pockets and edges. Great for the kids. Often used as a descent route for the other problems on this face. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | VB- | 5m | |||||
6 |
★ Geckos Huecos
Sit start on the small left facing crimps and jug up to the two slopey huecos, then up left to the big hueco, and straight up through the jug pockets to top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | V2 | 5m | |||||
7 |
God Damn Flake N' Pockets!
Sit start at the base of the flake crack beside the big huecos. Follow up this trending left to join into the top of 'Geckos Huecos'. Don't damage any of the vegetation at the top, and obviously the tree is out for use as a hold. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | V0 | 5m | |||||
8 |
Hueco Whackos
Sit start on the big huecos to the right of the crack, trend up and right to join into 'Answer Sea Etty McGuire' to top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | V0 | 5m | |||||
9 |
★ Answer Sea Etty McGuire
The face between the slab and the pocketed walls. Layback and face climb to top out. Set: Damien Bell, 2 Nov 2018 FA: Nick Murphy, 26 Dec 2019 | V1 | 5m | |||||
10 |
Damiens Traverse Project
Start on large pockets L of slab, traverse low around arete and move to Slab face. finish on diagonal seam up slab Set: Damien Bell, 2 Nov 2018 | 6m | ||||||
11 |
★★ Seamingly Oblivious
Sit start at base of thin flake, head up until it dissapears then bridge right to the bottom of the next flake, push up through one hard move in this then top out and finally take a breath again. Pad well cause it's a long way down from the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | V3 | 5m | |||||
12 |
★ Face Full Of Bush
Sit start at bottom of thin seam, pull on using either the undercling to the right of the seam, or those with thin fingers use the seam. Slap up to big sloper rail, then follow seam to top out. FA: Jack Muller, 3 May 2015 Set: craig gilbert, 3 May 2015 | V1 | 5m | |||||
13 |
★ Corn Flakes
Standing start with a left side pull and highish left foot. Theres a great left under cling to work for your next move followed by a right side pull. The feet aren't great so its mostly smearing until you reach a great right side pull. Top out into the bush. FA: Warren Harding, 9 Feb 2019 | V1 | 4m | |||||
14 |
★ Crunchy Corn Flakes
Sit start extension into 'Corn Flakes', done barefoot originally FA: Nick Murphy, 26 Dec 2019 | V2 | 5m | |||||
Under The Tide BoulderThe small overhung roof boulder facing towards 'Grater Wall' | ||||||||
16 |
Tide Down Flat
Sit start under the low right hand side of the overhang. Pull up from flat jug and move to lip and mantle. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | V0 | 2m | |||||
17 |
A Crack In Tide
Sit start at base of left trending crack and follow this to top out to the left. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | V0 | 2m | |||||
18 |
Slope, Slink and Slap
Match start on the slopey jug, plenty of feet around, pull up and go to a variety of intermediate holds then bust to the top, or do one massive move straight to the lip and mantle out. Watch your back on the boulder behind you, best protected with a pad. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | V1 | 2m | |||||
Salomon Seas Face | ||||||||
20 |
King Salomon / No Lace Runners
Super easy juggy ramp, great for kids or helping people get used to heights over pads before trying other problems nearby. Sit start on the ledge, grab jugs and pull up and follow up the sharp arete to the right of the descent gully. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | VB- | 4m | |||||
21 | Project 5 | |||||||
22 | Project 6 | |||||||
23 | Project 7 | |||||||
24 | Project 8 | |||||||
25 |
★ Pad On The Back
FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | V0 | 5m | |||||
The Watcher Face | ||||||||
27 |
★ Dynamic Jug Junkies
Stand start on slopey holds, make one sizeable blind dynamic move to giant bucket above then top out via the jugs. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | V0 | 3m | |||||
28 |
Flake On Jugger
Sit start at the base of the flake, head straight up via several huge jugs to top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | V0 | 3m | |||||
29 |
Beanbag Slob
The hardest part about this thrutchy problem is getting off the ground. Sit start at the base of the white line streak up the south face of the boulder. Struggle onto the boulder itself and then pretty much stand up and pull over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 25 Apr 2020 | V0 | 2m | |||||
Pockets of Rooves | ||||||||
31 | Project 12 | |||||||
32 | Project 13 | |||||||
33 | 9 | |||||||
34 |
Project 14
Set: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | |||||||
35 |
Project 15
Set: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | |||||||
36 |
Project 16
Set: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | |||||||
37 |
Project 17
Set: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | |||||||
38 |
Project 18
Set: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | |||||||
39 |
Project 19
Set: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | |||||||
40 | Project 20 | |||||||
41 | Project 21 | |||||||
42 | Project 22 | |||||||
43 | Project 23 | |||||||
Shit Scared WallMuch further north beyond the boulder problems | ||||||||
45 |
Shit Scared Leader
Long coastal walk north from Etty Bay. Tide is important for not just access to the climb but also the start of the route once there. Low tide is preferable at less than .5m FA: Craig Gilbert | 15 | 10m | |||||
|
1.3.2. Etty Bay South
- Summary:
-
5 routes in Field
Lat / Long: -17.562504, 146.093490
description
Southern side of Etty Bay. Much harder access compared to the north side, and so far for what's been explored doesn't really offer the same quality problems as the north side. Currently blocked by a large overhanging roof about 500m along to explore any further.
approach
As you descend towards the carpark at Etty Bay take the very first right and double back on yourself following this road to the very end. Head onto the beach and walk to your right as you face the water. Scramble along the rocks for around 200m before reaching the first problem.
history
Nick Murphy in 2020 with likely exploration preceeding in the 90s.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Ants In My Pockets
Sit start with left hand in the pocket and right hand on something else. Follow the crack up to the right, topping out does meet you with a lot of green ants, your call. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | V0 | 2m | |||||
2 |
Direction Forgection
Sit start below the vertical crack, hands on the jugs, head up the flake and face holds until over the top then traverse right to descend. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | V1 | 3m | |||||
3 |
★ Pock It And Lock It
Slide in underneath into the little cave. Sit start as low as possible with jugs, pull through on pockets until about to hit the boulder behind then go right to mantle over the lip. Rock can be a bit soft, but with more ascents it'll clean up. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | V2 | 3m | |||||
4 |
★ Logging Sends
Sit start with hands in the horizontal break and poxy feet. Pop left following the break then pull up once at the arete and follow to the top and top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | V2 | 2m | |||||
5 |
Unpassable Block
Or not maybe. Can either climb through the V-Hard roof and access further beyond but this is as far as has been explored for now. Could also try to push your way through the scrub on the hill to get around. May also be able to be walked around at very low tide. |
1.4. Mourilyan Harbour
- Summary:
-
Mostly Bouldering
Lat / Long: -17.597103, 146.128490
summary
Seaside spot with a trad climb and bouldering.
description
A long stretch of rocky coastline that offers plenty of bouldering potential, as well as one established trad crack climb, with potential for more for the bold.
access issues
Be careful coming through the harbour/port area and be polite to all staff and security as this could easily cause difficulty with access.
approach
Drive to end of Mourilyan Harbour road through the industrial area until reaching what looks like an old cattle yard (-17.599029, 146.125101). Walk around this to the left and down to the shoreline. There is a faint walking track just within the treeline but it's fairly overgrown now, so easier to just walk along the rocks to the headland and North about 50m to a two ledged cliff. This has 'Gjibo's Crack'. There is more problems as you walk north along the coast.
where to stay
Accommodation is nearby in Etty Bay, or within Innisfail itself. There's no camping facilities near this area.
ethic
Please take all rubbish out of area and respect wildlife.
history
'Gjibo's Crack' was first established by craig gilbert in 1997.
Nick Murphy explored the area in May 2020, establishing a few of the easier problems.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Gjibo's Crack AreaA few small cliffs and boulders around the original route here done by craig gilbert back in 1997. | ||||||||
2 |
★ Gjibo's Crack
Semi offwidth starting on the lower ground following the easy line below the obvious crack, up to the ledge and then through the crack to the top. Tree rap from on top. Could be done as a boulder problem if spotters were tied in on the mid-height ledge. FFA: Craig Gilbert, 1997 | 17 | 16m | |||||
3 |
Cavernous
Sit start underclinging the lip of the small cave (check for spiders), use feet inside the cave, pull up and use whatever holds around to pull onto face, then slightly technical face climbing till you top out. Descend off to the left being careful of slippery leaf litter, and the army of green ants everywhere on this cliff. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | V0 | 3m | |||||
4 |
★ Gjibo's Jib / Lower Gjibos Crack
This could just be one of the many ways to start 'Gjibo's Crack', though there's several along this wall. Sit start near the tricky undercling, and right hand side pull, using these pounce up to the good sidepull above and follow thin seam and sidepulls to the top. Careful on the top out. Descend off to the left being careful of slippery leaf litter, and the army of green ants everywhere on this cliff. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | V1 | 3m | |||||
5 |
★ Holes To Hide In
Stand start in the small trench below the wall of pockets and huecos. Follow up past the huecos trending slightly right until the very top. Great fun problem for those new to bouldering. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | VB | 5m | |||||
6 |
Project 1
Set: Nick Murphy, 7 May 2020 | |||||||
7 |
Project 2
Set: Nick Murphy, 7 May 2020 | |||||||
8 |
Project 3
Set: Nick Murphy, 7 May 2020 | |||||||
9 |
Project 4
Set: Nick Murphy, 7 May 2020 | |||||||
10 |
Project 5
Set: Nick Murphy, 7 May 2020 | |||||||
11 |
★★ Streaks of White
Enjoyable juggy problem following straight up the white quartzite streak. Sit start on chockstone and pull the jugs up the streak till at the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 4 May 2020 | V0 | 4m | |||||
12 |
Project 6
Set: Nick Murphy, 7 May 2020 | |||||||
13 |
Project 7
Set: Nick Murphy, 7 May 2020 | |||||||
14 |
Project 8
Set: Nick Murphy, 7 May 2020 | |||||||
|
1.5. North Barnard Islands
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: -17.672911, 146.173941
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Rock Trout
Loose rock. Pro limited at the top. Climb goes left of the obvious roof and then up to the high point. FA: Trent Williams | 15 | 25m |