Routes in Kangaroo Point

The original trad line heads R after 1st bolt, finishing up arête & corner.

Start as for 'Exhilarant'.

Clip the BR in the middle of the steep face on the L part way up 'Exhilarant'. Bridge L to ledges then straight up past 2 further BRs to top out.

Start 10 m right. Up arête on right side using good holds all the way. Avoid the swing around the left side of the arête. Anchor from 2nd and 3rd balusters.

Start 2m R of 'Lesbian Printshop Workers'. Faintly marked "Z".

Straight up manky 1st half to ledge, clipping BRs on '32A' and/or 'LPW'. Continue up nice cracked slab and corner with desperate natural pro to top.

Start 4 m right. Climb corner to below arête. Easily up this to top. Anchor from balusters 6 and 7.

Start at 'The Duck's Nuts'.

Trad line near 'The Duck's Nuts' and 'Date Anatomy'.

Linkup. Start up 'Lesbian Printshop Workers', finish up 'Zac'.

Start at 'Wedding Crashers'.

Old school climb which traverses L and R to find line of least resistance. Finishes up 'Exhilarant'.

Start 2m R of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "LPW".

Rebolted in 2019

Follow the L tending line of 5 RBs up nice wall and thin slab. Push through the great crux sequence, placing a #2 wire, and top out.

Start 1m R of 'Dysentery'. Marked "BM".

Up past 2 RBs to 'Dysentery RHF' roof. Up over this and up slab to DBB.

(Rebolted Dec 2020)

Start 2 m right. Scramble to crack in wall. Up this with nice protection to top out. Anchor from 3rd and 4th balusters

Obsolete but included for historical/confusion reasons. Disappeared after a fig tree grew nearby. 'Tiger Stripe' covers this part of the wall.

Start: Below the big overhanging block. Up easy, loose crack under roof to a ring bolt, then up to a nice crack with good gear. Continue up crack for a few moves to grassy ledge. Climb left onto the arete & up this (crux) past two ring bolts and up to DBB. Unique climbing for KP with a few different styles of climbing involved.

Rebolted in November 2019 with two fresh RBs. Start just R of 'Gynaecology'. Marked "PMB".

Straight up clipping the 2 RBs shared with 'Gynaecology', staying right of the bolt line. Mantle onto the halfway ledge then up the crack (medium friends) and arete to top.

Start 1.5m to L of 'The Bee's Knees'.

Up trad line with 3-4 nut placements. Finish at "The Bee's Knees' DBB.

Rebolted in November 2019 with two fresh RBs. Start just L of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "G".

Straight up clipping the 2 RBs shared with 'Postmodernist Blues' but staying left of the bolt line. At the halfway ledge step L and climb up corner to anchor.

The corner takes good natural gear, despite what the guidebook may suggest.

Start 5 m right. Same start as for climb #11. Trend left then up seam on small pockets to top.

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Right Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.

Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, tend L up crack in face (natural pro) then past another BR to DBB. Start is much easier (12) if steps to R are climbed instead of directly up past the bolts.

Start 4 m right. Up the corner to below the big roof. Traverse right to crack and force overhang above to jugs and easy finish.

Mick Woodrow's first free ascent at KP. ignominious! Crap climbing in between vertical dirt.

Start: ten metres before the cliff turns left. Up blocks to a grassy ledge. Up and left to the manky corner and climb the dirty rubble to the top.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

A different start to 'Pterodactyl', starting 1m R.

Only minimally different to the standard 'Pterodactyl' and traverses L to join the usual route at halfway.

"I only got interested in leading the FFA of this route because it makes me the only person I know who can claim to have freed a Hot Henry Barber top-rope problem!" (Mick Woodrow)

Start at crack 3m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Follow manky crack to top.

Start 1m L of 'Spidermonkey'.

Up onto the ledge and clip the RB. Climb the nice finger crack to the start of the slab at halfway. Up the slab clipping 2 RBs and finish at the DBB.

Seems to have become lost in the jungle to the R of 'Short Wall'. Supposedly marked "AC".

The chossy start left of the original route.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

This is a link-up that crosses Pterodactyl and Honed and Buffed. Climbs the face of Pterodactyl (not either of the aretes) for first 3 bolts. Series of thin and balanced holds. Then step right off the ledge onto the face. 1 small bomber nut in the obvious crack for pro. Then up and across face. Up the last 2 bolts of Honed and Buffed to anchors.

Start 4m R of 'Wrath of Grapes'.

Up small ledges to very high BR. Continue past 2nd BR to ledge at half height. On up tough headwall past BR & FH to top.

Start 2m L of 'Bird Dance For Shiva'.

Up the ledges, traverse R and finish up the slab clipping the BR. Much harder than its official grade of 15.

Start: at the small buttress left of EE. Up bulging twin cracks on a tier, to a stance. Up unprotected crap rock to top.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

Historic KP trad route. In today's terms; runout & dangerous in the upper half. Up onto large ledge at 2m (gear), tricky step up, then out right & up to sloping ledge at 5m., up headwall (more gear) above, then trend left, up along weakness & no gear till you get to the lefthand corner crack & top-out.

Start 3m R of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "S". Poor protection. Up to the concave scoop on dodgy rock, some gear in the thin crack on the right, up on poor gear to face above & better placements, then to top on reasonable gear, head right to DBB on Septugenarian, or top-out.

Start 2m R of 'Nut'. Marked "WoG".

Straight up past very high BR to halfway ledge and 2nd BR. Scramble R to base of corner. Layback up corner with natural pro to top.

Start 3m L of 'Bird Dance For Shiva'.

Up the ledges then the loose corner to top.

Start at 'Spidermonkey'.

Nice beginner trad lead with good pro following the crack just R of 'Spidermonkey'. Finish at the 'Spidermonkey' DBB. Named after KP's well-known mascot - Proude's dog, Tash. (T.A.S.H)

Traverse. Start at 'Halva'.

Four pitch traverse finishing up 'The Olos Slab'.

Start: At the initials "TPM", four metres left of the big arete. Up the short crack left of the arete then continue up ledges to top.

Footnote: It is still possible to climb this, as it lies just outside of the Riverlife property.

Start 2m right of fourteen. Mantle slab start to ledge. Place a hex and smear up from the crack leftward up to second ledge. Plenty of pro options here before left up and over small overhang to find carrot bolt. Easy up and top out from here.

Start at the base of the deep crack.

Follow the right-tending crack until it runs out then head straight to the top. Minimal protection, especially higher up.

Start just L of 'Another Girl Another Planet'. Marked "MI".

Straight up cracked corner past deep hole in rock to top. Run out on lead. Soloed on first free ascent.

Start 2m R of 'Piles'. Marked "CE".

Up slabby arete. Minimal protection.

Historical register: This route now lies on Riverlife property and lies behind it.

Interesting bridging moves up a dark corner leads to an enjoyable layback and an easy finish. Tree belay. Try this one before visiting Frog!

Start 1m R of the usual 'Adam's Rib' start.

Climb up the slippery face to join 'Adam's Rib' at the corner.

Start 2m right of fifteen. Straight up the slab to the large ledge. There are two carrot bolts here, (good for top belay or multi pitch practice). Straight up from here to easy but chossy top out.

Start 1m L of 'Cornflake Crack'. Marked "DM".

Named after a climber killed on Crookneck. Climb up slinging drill hole, then follow line of 3 RBs to DBB. Originally led as a trad route but has been retrobolted.

Start as for 'Mission Impossible'.

Traverse R at the ledge above the deep hole and finish up slab as for 'Another Girl Another Planet'.

Trad line between 'Frontier Psychiatrist' and 'Junket' - The obvious crack. Very soft band of ignimbrite = very poor gear & poor climbing. Run-out at top. Follow left leaning crack, then right up to chains on Junket.

Start 2m L of 'Silly or Serious'. Marked "EGO".

Up past BR to stance. Place #1 RP then up small corner on L to FH. Step R to face then up past BR to below slab. Thin moves up slab past 2 FHs and top out.

Yet another example of a 'KP' "trad" route that would benefit from being fully bolted.

Pure Choss. Rack your gardening tools.

Traverse. Start up 'Pocket Calculator' to 3rd bolt, then step left for 365m to finish up at 'The Olos Slab'. A fun day out, but really why would you unless you have a lot of time on your hands?

Start 2m R of 'The Stoats Stepped Out'. Faintly marked "S".

Up to corner, layback up it, to ledge & stance below the overhung crack & bomber gear, hard moves through this & finish up the cracked face just L of 'Mission Impossible'. Committing. Top out or move right across face to anchors on AGAP & 42 Wheels. The overhung crack takes large nuts, or small hexes. Cams, tricams + offsets.

An alternate start to the 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars' a traverse which adds an extra pitch. Start at 'Frontier Psychiatrist' then traverse R from the 3rd bolt to 3rd bolt on 'Idiot Wind' to join the usual 'Eddie Goes to Gay Bars' route.

Start as for original 'Ego'. Instead of finishing up the slab, climb corner to L with natural pro. Top out.

Historical register: This route now lies on Riverlife property and lies behind it.

More contrived climbing. Climb Gash Flash VS & at the notch, continue up the arete placing gear in the Gash Flash crack.

Start 4m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Marked "SF".

Follows the obvious finger crack to top. One of the best trad routes at 'KP'.

"Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985."

Up SIUM, to small ledge at 8m, then up to a stance below the overhanging crack & bomber gear, through this to slab above, left of MI, & RB on face out left, up TSSO (crux) for the last 3m, passing a FH & rap rings. RB + anchor installed April 2024.

Start 2m R of 'Prickles', 2m L of 'Ego'. Faintly marked "RC".

Straight up to stance & BR. Traverse R past BR to mantle move & FH shared with 'Ego'. From here trend L to climb up cracked pillar with natural pro to top.

Start 2m L of 'Stoat Clips Bolts'. Marked "BO".

"Moira and I cleaned up both of the variants and the main route on the same weekend in 1985."

Up SIUM to about the 8m mark (small ledge), move left across small ledges to RB, follow the broken rock up, trending right at the "variant start" painted on the rock, to a small stance & clip the next RB, then straight up TSSO VF (crux) passing a 3rd RB. At the ledges below the top, move 1m left or right, to anchors on IW or TSSO. Carrots replaced + anchors installed April 2024,

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: On the blank face, about 6-7m Left of the sharp Gash Flash arete. Very hard edging up face, past a BR, leads to a small ledge. Place pro in crack and crank up to top and chain.

Start: as for Foreclosure. Climb to RB below the small rooflet, traverse left, then up, following a small seam/crack (small but solid gear). Stem up the seam/crack & face on the left, until a mantle rejoins you with the top 2 RBs of Foreclosure. Finish up arete as per Foreclosure to anchor.

Start 2m R of 'Adam's Rib', where the "$♂" (dollar-man, get it?!) is painted about 4m off the ground.

Up the hard slots (wires) then finish up the 'Adam's Rib' arete.

Start as for 'Dolerite Dreaming'.

Essentially a rebolt of 'Dolerite Dreaming', maybe with a more direct finish. Up past two RBs and sling the drill hole. Continue straight up past two more RBs, traverse L under the roof and run it out to the anchor.

Start just L of the waterfall. Marked "TA".

Manky trad crack.

Start at the "V" mark.

Up using BR and natural pro to FH and crux at half height. Traverse R and up past BR to top.

Start 2m L of 'Piles', right near 'Cox's Overhang'. Marked "CD". Start up CO, cross Piles and finish up CE.

Contrived traversing.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: Just Left of Tode Mode. Up wall trending Right past two BR's to Tode Mode's ledge. Finish up Tode Mode's crack to top. A barbed wire fence once existed below this climb making falls a scary proposition!

Start to the left of BO and follow the Arete up.

You can access the BO anchors for top rope by climbing down from the top of 'Anonymous'.

Up first two bolts as for Bouncy Castle then head out right to fun moves up trad crack with good gear before heading left to Bouncy Castle's anchors. Described previously on TheCrag as Busted Xylophone, however after noticing a major grading inconsistency and further consultation of the guidebook, this route is independent to the traditional Busted Xylophone route.

Eddie Irvine's first lead... hung himself by his gear sling when his foot slipped placing a nut in the layback! LOL

Start at the massive "AR" mark.

Climb up the corner and face then on up to the large ledge with the corner two-thirds of the way up. From here climb the arete on the R to the top.

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

1. 21m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to roof then traverse R and down to belay below 'Nic Chips Diffs' headwall.

2. 9m (17) Across 'Exhilarant' to belay on 'Gangbang Wall'.

3. 11m (20) Across to natural pro belay on 8m high ledge on 'Anonymous'.

4. 13m (17) To halfway ledge on 'Pterodactyl'.

5. 14m (22) To 'Moonlight Fantasia' ledge.

6. 20m (22) Finish up 'Adam's Rib'.

Start 2m L of 'Piles'. Marked "CO".

Follow shallow corner to under overhang, slinging the pin on the way. Place some gear then climb the overhang on its R side. Solo up the slabby arete to top.

Start 2m R of 'Anonymous', 1m R of 'Anonymous DS'.

Up shallow corner, then sharp arete, then ledges to top.

Start 1.5m R of 'Bottle Stopper'. Marked "SR".

Trad route with some BRs. Probably harder than grade suggests.

Chipped boulder start to 'Cox's Overhang', 1m L of usual start.

Start 3m L of 'Olos'. Marked "SG".

Tend R up thin face past high RB to ledge and 2nd RB. Continue up cracked face (small wires) and top out.

Start 3m R of 'Wounded Knee'. Faintly marked "N".

Up layback to ledge below overhang. Traverse R to avoid overhang, briefly joining 'Mank Mistress', before tending back L above overhang. Continue to top. Run out in parts.

Start 2m L of 'Cox's Overhang'. Marked "PsC".

Up to ledge, traverse right and up corner to wire netting.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: at the MCR initials. Hard and sustained climbing up the chipped pockets past two BR's leads to easier ground and some trad gear, then the top.

Start as for 'Nightfell'.

A more direct version of 'Nightfell' which goes straight through the overhang rather than skirting around it. 2 FHs, though they provide next to no protection at the crux where the potential for a nasty ledge fall is high. Top rope advised.

Start in corner 3m L of 'Pseudo-Cox'. Faintly marked "CC".

Climb awful face past a number of pins. From here the climb originally traversed L to corner and tree then upward to more wire netting. Now the tree has grown so large you'd be doing well to make it that far. Probably not worth the effort.

Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: 1m Right of TT, below the pipe hole. Up the crack and pipe hole with difficulty to a BR. Push past this with difficulty to an easy finish over blocks.

Start 1m R of 'Chip-A-Holdaway'. Marked "A".

The original trad route. Up obvious corner (gear on left), then on up ledges to corner finish. Average protection at the start, can now be supplemented with the RBs on 'Anonymous DS' making it a good beginner trad lead.

The left tending crack. Has a set of anchors over the bulge at the top on a nice ledge.

Start about 10m L of 'Olos'. Marked "W".

5 bolts above an optional gear placement. Start at Nightfell ("N"), climb up to the ledge at 2m, place a cam (#1 BD or medium tricam) in the slot out left, just above the lip. Big layback & step-up to bolt, over bulge to ledge below scooped wall & next bolt. Then up left of the scoop & straight up, passing another 3 bolts to anchors.

Direct start to 'Cox's Corner' up the overhung layback. The pins give good fixed protection.

Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: At the initials; TT. A rather interesting excursion up the small red corner. At two thirds height step right and finish up easy ground. Nice crack climbing with solid gear.

Start 2m R of the usual 'By Ignorance' start.

Straight up drill hole to halfway ledge, then up the corner at the R edge of the slab. Very bold.

Traverse. Start at 'Idiot Wind'.

1. 20m (17) Up 'Idiot Wind' to 2nd bolt. Traverse R to belay on 'Hanger Wall'.

2. 15m (20) Traverse R on high line of 'Hanger Wall' to belay on 'Chip-a-Holdaway'.

3. 15m (12) Across to belay on last bolt of 'Euthanasia'.

Start 2m R of 'MOBS'.

Looks just like a sport route until you realise how runout it is between the 3rd & 4th bolts and start wishing you'd brought some trad gear. 5 FHs & DBB.

Start at the "WK" mark.

Up past 4 BRs then natural pro in second half. DBB. Remember your boltplates.

Sandbagged old school climb and grade. Not a lot of pro in the first half.

Start below steep smooth face about 10m R of 'Earth to Stella' pillar.

Climb series of cracks offering good natural pro to finish at DBB. No mantling or escaping R to ledges. Will need to be de-vined again before the next ascent!

Start 1m R from the 'Bufo Marinus' arete. Marked "BI".

Up to halfway ledge at base of slab. Up slab to layback crack, then up this, R around bulge and top out.

Start as for original 'Radioactive Cheerio'.

Climb up to 2nd BR as per the original route, then, instead of traversing R at 2nd bolt, climb straight up the headwall past a FH. Continue up cracked pillar with natural pro to top. Big reach and balance move.