Vie in Kangaroo Point

Historical: At the 3rd carrot (now covered by shotcrete) on A Bum Full Of Fists, go Right, up angled corner to top past BR and top out. This route is now obsolete, with BCC having shotcreted the middle section, making the climbing harder, and dangerous, missing critical bolts.

Description added for historical purposes only: 2016 council works have now completely changed this classic route: the crucial 2 carrots below the overhang, are now covered in shotcrete, making the grade harder, and a dangerous 7-8m runout from a dodgy drill hole sling.

Obvious arete left of stairs. Start up face to carrot at 4m, then up to small ledge. Up loose corner on jugs passing a BR (now covered), drill hole sling, then a BR (now covered). Reach left around arete to clip BR and swing left and up overhang (crux) to slab (BR). Up this placing a wire in crack to top.

Start: Just left of ABFOF below the inside corner (alternatively, just right of Light Box #14). Up broken rock to a carrot out left, up right to a stance on a block & 2nd carrot, then delicately up corner to 3rd carrot on face, above, continue up smooth corner to 4th carrot next to tree on face, then continue up passing another carrot. Uncertain as to whether or not the anchors are still there, following BCC's rock scalling & shotcreting of the upper cliff.

Rebolted. 5 ring bolts lead the way.

Start: In front of Light box #14; At the blank face, about 5m left of the inside corner route (Gumby's Demise). Climb the broken face to a low first RB at 3m, up to ledge, passing another RB at 5m, difficult mantle, then up face, past another 3 RBs to chains out left under branches (shared with Oh Mighty Gumby). Note: There's a big 10-12m run-out over easier ground from the 2nd to 3rd RB, if you want, there are trad placements (crack) between these two bolts.

Good, continuous climbing.

Start: At the broken face, about 2m left of Lord Gumby. Up the easy blocks to a high first bolt, then very thin moves (crux), to 2nd RB, continue up on blankness & trend left to jug + corner & ledge & 3rd RB, slightly easier climbing up right to 4th RB, follow the corner to 5th RB, up right of overhang to 6th RB, then to chains above right (underneath the tree branch). (Shared with Lord Gumby.) Retrobolted, now with 6 RBs.

Start: About 4m right of Light Box #13. Below the overhanging corner. Up broken rock to first carrot, to a small ledge & 2nd carrot, follow corner up to 3rd carrot, up right through small overhang & 4th carrot, out right across ledges to broken corner, up this to 5th carrot (out left) & big jug to double rings out left. Remember to bring bolt plates.

Start: 2 metres right of Light Box #13. Below the line of rings to the left of the corner. Straight up wall on blocky holds to hard move on slab and anchors. Original finish somewhat encroached upon by shotcrete.

Start: Just right of Light Box #12, just right of the Wallbanger tree. Five RB's to chain. High first bolt, then evenly spaced to anchors. Shares top 2 RBs with Wallbanger to chains. NB: This route tends to weep for several days after rain. This route has been retrobolted.

This route has been retro-bolted.

Start: Directly in front of Light Box #12. Climb the spreading Fig tree at the start to first BR, then thin moves up to a ledge, move Right along this to 2nd BR. Straight up to a 3rd BR just Left of the arete, then traverse Right under the overhung & up the blank corner passing another 3 RBs to chains.

Start: Slightly left of Light Box #12. The smooth face just left of the Wallbanger tree. Hard start protected by an RB. Push over bulge to another RB and up thin face to a 3rd RB, then push on to clip a fourth RB below the overlap and use the hefty undercling to gain the face above. Continue up the thin slab, then easier (but run-out) to 5th RB and chain 2m above. Now rebolted with RBs & new chains. (NB: The new chains eliminate the older, lower chains, used as an alternative ending, making this route now 22m.)

Start: Up Rear Entry to 3rd bolt, then head up right passing 2 more BRs, to chains. Note: this route tends to seep for several days after rain.

More joy.

Start: Slightly right of Light Box #11. Up broken face, past a RB, then traverse slightly right and up to small ledge. Clip high RB and fire straight up the improbable looking wall past another RB. Traverse left and up the recess to below overhanging block. Clip final RB and jug up to chain above left. Note, this route tends to seep for some days after rain.

Start: Slightly left of Light Box #11, 2m left of Rear Entry.

Climb the thin, broken face to RB, & up the thin slab to the next RB & a good hold. Blast slightly left up the thin face (crux) to next RB below small overlap & up to next RB & big hold. Finish over small roof to chain. Short climb but a long name! This route tends to weep after rain.

Simon and Neil initially adjusted about two tonnes of loose rock off this route before roping up for the first ascent. It was top-roped originally at grade 17, ignored for many years (for good reasons) then Neil came back and aided and drilled his way up for practice one afternoon. The remaining hangerless bolts are questionable!

Start: In front of Light Box 10, a few metres left of OLBDNSWD. Locate thin crack. Aid up this on small to medium wires to below vegetated ledge. Mantel this (BR - probably gone) to rest. Up right past aid bolt to another mantle onto a small ledge below smooth headwall and BR (probably gone). Aid up the wall past a rusty old aid bolt (still there), then traverse directly left to chains on ST. Rap off. Warning - bolts may be very weak by now. (NB: I would suggest that the aid bolts & bolt runners are now long gone, cleaned off by BCC in many rock scaling events. As of 2022, one rusty BR remains high up on this route.)

Not pretty and not popular. Neil's first ever new route.

Start: Just left of Light Box #10, below a FH. Up a steep blank wall with hard reach move to jug and very high 1st FH. Up loose broken face to 2nd FH 3.5m above. Up blocky ledges & more broken rock, to a FH about 5m above, on face out right, mantle ledge & traverse 2m right to chains. Bold and loose between 1st & 2nd & 3rd FHs. This needs retrobolting to make it a safe lead.

Start: Directly in front of Light Box #9. Up the blocky face, to first bolt, straight up to next RB, then slightly right to 3rd RB on face, continue up the face/corner, passing a 4th RB, to chains.

Start: In front of Light Box 9, about 2m left of Smooth Sailing. Challenging start, up steep rock to first bolt on broken rocky face, aim for drill hole on right to next bolt, straight up the inside corner to a 3rd RB, up the face to 4th RB, and bit of a run-out over easier ground to chains directly above. (Chains in the left corner are Dynamite's chains.)

Start: Just left of Light Box #9, about 1m left of In The Middle Of A Dream. A daunting start up the blank slab to first RB, continue up the thin slab to a 2nd RB, over this to inside corner & 3rd RB on the black wall, bridge up the corner to a 4th RB, then easier territory to chains directly above in corner.

Start: Just Left of lightbox #7. Now retro bolted. 5 ring bolts to a set of anchors. Up over slopers to first RB, then blankness to 2nd RB, easier ground to 3rd RB, then up sheer face/corner, passing another 2 RBs to chains on Right. Rather chossy climbing, needs a clean up.

Start: Just Right of lightbox #6. A well protected route over good rock. Up the face to a knife-blade arete. Follow the RBs up Right of this, then up the face, passing another 2 RBs.

Start: Directly in front of Lightbox #6, 2m Left of GR. Committing start up blank slab to 1st RB, big run-out, but easier ground to next RB, then nice moves follow corner up, passing another RB, then delicately to last RB, layoff & pinch the blunt arete & bridge up to chains.

Start: Right of the big Foreclosure block, behind a small tree. Up the varied rock, passing 5 RBs to chains. Keep left of the drill hole at the start & climb straight up to the 2nd RB, up the sharp arete on good moves to 5th RB & chains on ledge.

Start: Below big overhanging block Left of GR. Up easy crack to below the big roof & RB. Layback out right onto small ledge and climb nice crack to grassy ledge. Up sustained wall on right of sharp arete, with good gear in horizontal cracks, to loose top.

NB: This route needs an anchor, as Council have since shotcreted the top 2m of cliff and established the parkland above.

Start: Below the big overhanging block. Up easy, loose crack under roof to a ring bolt, then up to a nice crack with good gear. Continue up crack for a few moves to grassy ledge. Climb left onto the arete & up this (crux) past two ring bolts and up to DBB. Unique climbing for KP with a few different styles of climbing involved.

Start: as for Foreclosure. Climb to RB below the small rooflet, traverse left, then up, following a small seam/crack (small but solid gear). Stem up the seam/crack & face on the left, until a mantle rejoins you with the top 2 RBs of Foreclosure. Finish up arete as per Foreclosure to anchor.

Start: In front of lightbox #3, (sign saying "No climbing in this area") - about 15m left of Foreplay. Up slick wall to first RB, up trending left to next RB, up a very blank wall to next RB, continue up the blankness to final RB & chains 4m above. NB: This sector of the cliff tends to weep for a few days after rain.

Possibly the worst excuse for a climb at 'Kangaroo Point'. Neil merely used this climb as an extended test block for his newly purchased hand-drill and etriers. On the same day he had to rescue a lost student who decided to solo up the white choss to get to the TAFE that used to reside along the top of this section of cliff.

Start: several metres left of large white landslide below, a BR. Up mank to ledge and BR. Up corner above past dodgy aid bolt and BR to below crack. Aid up this to ledge and BR. Scramble up dirt ledges to top.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

Mick Woodrow's first free ascent at KP. ignominious! Crap climbing in between vertical dirt.

Start: ten metres before the cliff turns left. Up blocks to a grassy ledge. Up and left to the manky corner and climb the dirty rubble to the top.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

The chossy start left of the original route.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

Start: at the small buttress left of EE. Up bulging twin cracks on a tier, to a stance. Up unprotected crap rock to top.

As of 2022, this whole area is overgrown and awash with vegetation.

Start: At the initials "TPM", four metres left of the big arete. Up the short crack left of the arete then continue up ledges to top.

Footnote: It is still possible to climb this, as it lies just outside of the Riverlife property.

Historical register: This route now lies on Riverlife property and lies behind it.

Interesting bridging moves up a dark corner leads to an enjoyable layback and an easy finish. Tree belay. Try this one before visiting Frog!

Historical register: This route now lies on Riverlife property and lies behind it.

Contrived climbing up the thin wall left of the corner, to a notch in the wall at five metres. Traverse right and finish up the original line.

Historical register: This route now lies on Riverlife property and lies behind it.

More contrived climbing. Climb Gash Flash VS & at the notch, continue up the arete placing gear in the Gash Flash crack.

Historical register: This route is now a part of Riverlife property and lies behind it.

Clip the first BR from ground and boulder up. Mantle sloping hold and continue up the nice arete past another two BR's to an easy finish.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: On the blank face, about 6-7m Left of the sharp Gash Flash arete. Very hard edging up face, past a BR, leads to a small ledge. Place pro in crack and crank up to top and chain.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: Just Left of Tode Mode. Up wall trending Right past two BR's to Tode Mode's ledge. Finish up Tode Mode's crack to top. A barbed wire fence once existed below this climb making falls a scary proposition!

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

The name was a tribute to Moira who had her leg broken in an accident on Crookneck.

Start: just Left of RIAC. Up the delicate face left of RIAC to a crack then up past two BR's. At the second BR trend left and up to finish. Very sustained.

A direct finish was done by Paul Hoskins at about 25.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Contrived. Up Spack Attack then traverse right and hook up edges to top.

Historic route description included here for posterity - this route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: at the MCR initials. Hard and sustained climbing up the chipped pockets past two BR's leads to easier ground and some trad gear, then the top.

Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: 1m Right of TT, below the pipe hole. Up the crack and pipe hole with difficulty to a BR. Push past this with difficulty to an easy finish over blocks.

Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: At the initials; TT. A rather interesting excursion up the small red corner. At two thirds height step right and finish up easy ground. Nice crack climbing with solid gear.

Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: just Left of Trash Thrash. Up face to overhanging bulge. Through this with difficulty to top.

Historic route description included here for posterity. This route is on & behind Riverlife property.

Start: 2m Right of MSB. Up face (no bridging) to ledge. Traverse Right and up through overlap.

This obscure route is located on a small wall on the left side of the old Navy Stores building (now Riverlife).

Two dodgy FH's lead the way up a series of good edges.

As of 2022,this wall is now covered in vines & growth.

Just in case you feel the need to tick an ascent of the stone stairs at the L end of 'Left Main Wall'.

Buried somewhere in the vegetation L of 'Crap Corner'.

Start 1m L of 'Earth to Stella'.

Probably not an ironic name. Climb up face to crack at L side of the 'ETS' pillar. Follow crack as it widens and tends R to finish at top of pillar. Shares the 'ETS' DBB.

Start at base of 10m pillar, about 5m R of bottom of the stone stairs.

Fun pumpy moves up L face of pillar past 2 BRs. Finish on top of pillar at DBB.

Start 1m R of 'Earth to Stella'.

Straight up R face of the 'ETS' pillar past 2 BRs and finish on top of pillar at the 'ETS' DBB. The bolts are a bit too spaced resulting in a dodgy 2nd clip.

Start below steep smooth face about 10m R of 'Earth to Stella' pillar.

Climb series of cracks offering good natural pro to finish at DBB. No mantling or escaping R to ledges. Will need to be de-vined again before the next ascent!

Start about 15m L of Web.

Consists of two hard moves left of the bolts. Short, contrived boulder problem on rope, would be a boulder route if the landing was better. Up between small flat aprons on thin edges passing 2 RBs and finishing at DBB.

Start as for MBTM then at the first bolt traverse right. Climbing on the right side of the bolts all the way to the chains. This creates a easier variant to MBTM.

Start about 10m L of 'Olos'. Marked "W".

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Right Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.

Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, tend L up crack in face (natural pro) then past another BR to DBB. Start is much easier (12) if steps to R are climbed instead of directly up past the bolts.

Start as for 'Brickie's Butt Crack (Left Finish)', 2m R of 'Web'.

Up following line of 3 BRs. From ledge at 2/3 height, step R to base of corner then up this (natural pro) to DBB. Start is much easier (12) if steps to R are climbed instead of directly up past the bolts.

Start 2m L of 'Snake in the Grass'.

Up thin face tending L past 2 RBs to halfway ledge. BRs & a FH in top half, finishes at chains.

Start 3m L of 'Olos'. Marked "SG".

Tend R up thin face past high RB to ledge and 2nd RB. Continue up cracked face (small wires) and top out.

Eddie Irvine's first lead... hung himself by his gear sling when his foot slipped placing a nut in the layback! LOL

Start as for 'Olos'.

At halfway, traverse R to meet 'The Olos Slab' at its last bolt and finish as per that climb.

Start below large blank slab.

Scramble onto ledge. Climb up slab then headwall following line of 5 RBs (with an optional nut to protect the moves to 1st bolt). Finish at DBB.

Originally led in the 90s, making use of a slightly enhanced hold. That hold was filled in in 2000, and lead successfully at grade 25.

Linkup. Up 'The Olos Slab' to 3rd RB then R to finish up top of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'.

Start at the R end of Olos slab. Marked "C+M".

Thin moves on slab following 3 BRs then up shallow corner in headwall past 2 BRs to DBB shared with 'Surrender'. Staying true to the route requires staying off both 'The Olos Slab' and the 'Surrender' arete, resulting in a pretty contrived climb.

Start at arete 1m R of 'Crimes and Misdemeanours'.

Fine and balancy slab climbing that tests the head as much as the feet. A great climb at the grade, but with some potential for ledgy falls so make sure you're solid. 5 RBs & DBB.

Start between 'Surrender' and 'Love Hurts'.

Start at corner 3m R of 'Surrender', just L of "NUT" mark (it's often confused with 'Nut').

Up corner past 3 RBs then layback the crux to attain ledge. More challenging moves past 2 RBs to finish at DBB.

Start at the arete 2m R of the 'Love Hurts' corner. Marked "NUT", although the actual start is about 1m R of the mark.

Nice climbing with a fun crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts which is tricky for the grade. 6 (well-camouflaged) RBs & DBB. Was originally led with just two bolts and trad. Retro-bolted with permission.

Start as for usual 'Wrath of Grapes', 2m R of 'Nut'.

Begin as for usual route but continue straight up arete in top half passing 2 FHs and topping out. Way better than the original route, this is the way to do it!

Start 2m R of 'Nut'. Marked "WoG".

Straight up past very high BR to halfway ledge and 2nd BR. Scramble R to base of corner. Layback up corner with natural pro to top.

Start 4m R of 'Wrath of Grapes'.

Up small ledges to very high BR. Continue past 2nd BR to ledge at half height. On up tough headwall past BR & FH to top.

Start at crack 3m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Follow manky crack to top.

Start 2m L of 'Gynaecology'.

Solo up wall to ridiculously high BR. Continue straight up past 2nd BR to ledge. Finish up hard steep wall past BR & FH and top out.

Rebolted in November 2019 with two fresh RBs. Start just L of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "G".

Straight up clipping the 2 RBs shared with 'Postmodernist Blues' but staying left of the bolt line. At the halfway ledge step L and climb up corner to anchor.

The corner takes good natural gear, despite what the guidebook may suggest.

Rebolted in November 2019 with two fresh RBs. Start just R of 'Gynaecology'. Marked "PMB".

Straight up clipping the 2 RBs shared with 'Gynaecology', staying right of the bolt line. Mantle onto the halfway ledge then up the crack (medium friends) and arete to top.

Start 2m R of 'Postmodernist Blues'. Marked "LPW".

Rebolted in 2019

Follow the L tending line of 5 RBs up nice wall and thin slab. Push through the great crux sequence, placing a #2 wire, and top out.

Linkup. Start up 'Lesbian Printshop Workers', finish up 'Zac'.

Start 2m R of 'Lesbian Printshop Workers'. Faintly marked "Z".

Straight up manky 1st half to ledge, clipping BRs on '32A' and/or 'LPW'. Continue up nice cracked slab and corner with desperate natural pro to top.

Start 2m R of 'Zac'. Faintly marked "32A".

Up past 3 RBs to ledge. Up slab then corner with minimal protection and top out to R. Yet another decent climb mostly overlooked because pro is dodgy.

Start 2m R of '32A'. Faintly marked "WNN".

Up steep wall past 2 very well spaced BRs to under overhang. Traverse L around overhang to ledge. Up slab in top half past 2 BRs to top.

Start as for 'Crossed With No Name V'.

As for 'Crossed With No Name V' but climb directly through the overhang (currently very vegetated).

Start 2m R of 'Crossed With No Name'. Marked "CCM". You will need 5 bolt plates.

Up steep wall past 3 BRs. Climb past 2 more BRs to crack. Follow crack placing natural pro. DBB with rings.

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

From ledge above crack follow line of FHs L and up. At 4th FH, step R and mantle into base of cuboidal chimney. Continue up this past final FH. The DBB has been stolen (bastards!) so either top out or traverse awkwardly R to the 'Juice' DBB.

Start 2m or so L of the usual route, near "RRR" mark.

Instead of starting up the 'Juice' crack then traversing L, climb straight up the steep face to join the usual route at its 2nd FH. The usual route's 1st RB off to the R may offer some protection for the start, depending on how direct you go.

Start up short crack as for 'Juice'.

Climb as per 'Juice' to 2nd RB then continue straight up to climb face between 'Robbie's Robust Runners' chimney on L and 'Juice' corner on R, passing 2 RB's. Finish at DBB shared with 'Juice'. Very run out between 2nd and 3rd bolts. Edit: This run out can be protected with a number 5 nut in the top of the crack to the left of the first ledge after the second clip.

Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Start at short crack 3m L of 'Wounded Knee'.

Bouldery moves up crack (somewhat) protected by RB 1m to L. Straight up slabby corner past RB then very long runout up R-tending steps to ledge below corner. Fun moves up corner past 2 RBs to DBB shared with 'After the Gold Rush'. Just barely qualifies as sport - could do with a rebolt.

Rebolted in 2015 by Safer Cliffs Queensland.

Start at the "WK" mark.

Up past 4 BRs then natural pro in second half. DBB. Remember your boltplates.

5 bolts above an optional gear placement. Start at Nightfell ("N"), climb up to the ledge at 2m, place a cam (#1 BD or medium tricam) in the slot out left, just above the lip. Big layback & step-up to bolt, over bulge to ledge below scooped wall & next bolt. Then up left of the scoop & straight up, passing another 3 bolts to anchors.

Start as for 'Nightfell'.

A more direct version of 'Nightfell' which goes straight through the overhang rather than skirting around it. 2 FHs, though they provide next to no protection at the crux where the potential for a nasty ledge fall is high. Top rope advised.

Start 3m R of 'Wounded Knee'. Faintly marked "N".

Up layback to ledge below overhang. Traverse R to avoid overhang, briefly joining 'Mank Mistress', before tending back L above overhang. Continue to top. Run out in parts.

Start 2m Left of 'Pass the Bosch' or 1m Right of the Nightfell scoop.

Originally climbed on top rope in the 60s, 'Mank Mistress' was anonymously retrobolted into a seemingly well protected sport route in about 2010. However careful inspection in 2014 (triggered by the anonymous bolting of 'Breakfast At Tiffanys') revealed substandard bolting and the bolts were removed. Rebolted in March 2019.

Start below the bolt about 3.5m up, just Right of the big concave wall (Nightfell). Straight up past this to 2nd bolt, up to ledge & 3rd bolt on short wall on Left. Up to the big ledge & clip 4th bolt at head height, straight up the block to 5th bolt (crux), then easy climbing to chains.

Start 2m L of 'Vegemite'.

Good climb with sustained moves up nice rock. 6 RBs & DBB. There's a ground anchor just L of the base for lead rope soloing.

Start at the "V" mark.

Up using BR and natural pro to FH and crux at half height. Traverse R and up past BR to top.

Start 2m R of 'Vegemite' below the nice looking overhang.

Excellent sustained climbing with a great crux sequence through the overhang. 5 RBs then 2 FHs and DBB. There's a ground anchor at the base for lead rope soloing.

Start as for original 'Radioactive Cheerio'.

Climb up to 2nd BR as per the original route, then, instead of traversing R at 2nd bolt, climb straight up the headwall past a FH. Continue up cracked pillar with natural pro to top. Big reach and balance move.

Start 2m R of 'Prickles', 2m L of 'Ego'. Faintly marked "RC".

Straight up to stance & BR. Traverse R past BR to mantle move & FH shared with 'Ego'. From here trend L to climb up cracked pillar with natural pro to top.

Start as for original 'Ego'. Instead of finishing up the slab, climb corner to L with natural pro. Top out.

Start 2m L of 'Silly or Serious'. Marked "EGO".

Up past BR to stance. Place #1 RP then up small corner on L to FH. Step R to face then up past BR to below slab. Thin moves up slab past 2 FHs and top out.

Yet another example of a 'KP' "trad" route that would benefit from being fully bolted.