★ In The Middle Of A Dream 15

Start: In front of Light Box 9, about 2m left of Smooth Sailing. Challenging start, up steep rock to first bolt on broken rocky face, aim for drill hole on right to next bolt, straight up the inside corner to a 3rd RB, up the face to 4th RB, and bit of a run-out over easier ground to chains directly above. (Chains in the left corner are Dynamite's chains.)

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

• All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
• Don't ever chip holds.
• Don't paint on any new initials.
• Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.