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Routes in The Sunny Side for selected grade

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Showing all 30 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Uphill Buttress
23 Felodese

Wall with one visible ring bolt (second is over a bulge) just left of the arete.

Anchors are over the top and give a fair amount of drag if lowering.

Sport 8m, 2
Offal Buttress
23 Blockbuster Traverse

Start from the ledge of Blue No More, across Pelvic Thrust and Free Passage, then up Offal Diagonal.

Trad 25m
23 R Saved
Trad 14m
Riverside Buttress
23 Innocent Bystander

A hidden gem of the gorge. Technical and hard finger locking and jambing with no faceholds except for a rounded arete. Awesome gear, a little tricky to place at the start and finishes up some classic gorge spikes and drill holes. DBB

FA: Smart & McMahon, 1982

Trad 10m
Shimmy Sheister Buttress
23 Waiting for Bobbo

A #1 cam above the third bolt is helpful. Anchors hidden under tree to left of crack.

FA: J Fisher, 1996

Sport 10m, 3
Trench-Foot Face
24 The Constable

On seperate pinnacle

Sport 8m, 3
Feltham Buttress
24 Crossing Siva

A novel traverse from 2nd bolt of Night Dweller to Feltham.

FA: Fox & DeCesare, 2002

Mixed trad 15m, 3
24 Third Rising

Even more contrived than Feinian. Stick clip recommended. Stay left of the bolts on ultra-thin side pulls, then step right to finish up the finger crack (gear).

FA: Danny Ng

Mixed trad 15m, 2
24 Venom
Trad 14m
Ezra Buttress
23 Unknown

The bolted arete upstream of Ezra. Two home made hangers sit on top of the cliff above the route. Contrived but good grade 23 if you avoid the block on the left. Alternatively, use the block and the climb becomes a rubbish 21/22.

Sport 9m, 4
Right Man Buttress
24 Roxanne
Mixed trad 10m, 1
24 Up The Wall

2 bolts up face to finger sized crack.

FA: Fisher, 1996

Mixed trad 9m, 2
23 Ng Man

FA: Danny Ng, 1988

Sport 12m, 3
23 Godfather

The bolted arete/pillar R of Hot Gossip.

Note - the large nob hold above the 4th bolt has recently lobbed off, completely changing the top sequence however this move is still consistent with the grade of the rest of the climb.

FA: Danny Ng, 1990

Sport 11m, 4
Rhubarb Buttress
23 Nowt' Breakfast
Trad 9m
Turret Buttress
23 Armour of Light

The downstream face of the left most pillar. This route packs a punch. climbs the thin crack on small gear using the arete and crack. 1 bolt after the crack runs out and finishes with a punch to a big jug at the top. DBB

FA: Patrick Munnings, Sep 2022

Mixed trad 7m, 1
Lady Midnight Buttress
24 Scottish Fire

Step off ledge and onto bolted arete. Start is significantly harder now a crucial hold has broken off. Original grade stands if using tree at start. DBB

FA: Danny Ng

Sport 7m, 5
23 Arc of Joan

FA: Mike MCowan, Roxanne Wells & Danny Ng, 1989

Mixed trad 12m, 1
Fatman Buttress
23 Little Boy

Curving line R of GOWTN corner. Stick clip first bolt (or place some small cams in the horizontal break), into cruxy moves laying/compressing off L arete to get established on face. Continue slightly R up slab to finish. Avoid cranking outwards on vertical pillar at base of route as it does seem to wobble. DBB

Mixed trad 10m, 3
23 Start Running

Fixed hangers on last major pillar on the R. Start from down low (using block), then L from ledge. DBB

FA: Danny Ng

Mixed trad 7m, 3
The Big Gully
24 Sarlacc

Starting as for Bautzen, step right off block to traverse along the shark tooth flake and up the right arete. DBB

Sport 16m, 5
Gabriel Gully
23 Fuseli

Fused short corner. Uber technical, old piston has been replaced by a bolt and some gear near the top DBB

FA: B McMahon

Mixed trad 8m, 1
Gabriel Buttress
23 Bonking In Kombis
Mixed trad 10m, 2
Gabriel Amphitheatre
23 Prince Hamlet
Trad 10m
Dent De Lion Pinnacles
24 Hot Tips From Bisso
Mixed trad 8m, 2
24 The Dum Arm

DBB

Sport 9m, 3
Tithog Pinnacle
23 Vision of Hope

DBB a top pinnacle

Mixed trad 8m, 2
Paradise Buttress
23 Paradise Road
Sport 8m
Tea Room Cliffs
24 Boys On the Monkey Bars
Sport 12m, 3
23 Masturbation
Mixed trad 9m, 2

Showing all 30 routes.

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