Routes in Vamp Buttress

On the upper tier, downstream of the old car stuck up in the cliff. Rap in from DBB above, using the line as a belay anchor.

Corner crack with nice jams and lots of face holds too. Great gear the whole way. DBB lower-off.

Climb the blunt arete left of Vamp past 4 FH to a DBB

Nice climbing around the corner crack, up to ledge with tree and DBB. Continue up the splitter fist crack to chimney above. Finish up the face of the boulder (natural belay). Scramble off back of boulder, and rap from DBB located on upstream platform (35m to ground, 15m to Sign of the Times anchor).

The black face R of the Vamp corner, with x4 U bolts. Takes gear at the top and bottom. DBB

A long abandoned Danny Ng project - recently revived after a scrub, and the addition of a couple of extra bolts and an anchor (located at the beginning of the blankness)…PS there’s no glory jug!!

Climb the detached pillar (stick clip recommended), and onto the face via x2 U’s and x2 carrots. DBB. The originally conceived finish can still be attempted (take a blue walnut, or a .4 camalot) to the SOTT anchor, and is an open project. Go for your life…

The trench like groove up the arete on the far RH side of the main buttress. x4 carrot bolts, plus a #1 camalot. DBB

The crack directly through the 2m roof. Yet to see a free ascent.

Crack behind the big detached pillar. Crux is clambering over the disconcerting big chockstone thing. DBB on top, but don’t rap/lower directly down line as ropes can jam in crack

Right hand crack behind the pillar

Right hand side of detached pillar - #3 cams to start.

A good practice route for aspiring aid climbers. The original aid version of Seize the Day. Climbs the thin seam directly up the middle of the face on mostly small wires and micro SLCDs. Originally written up as M1 in Bob McMahon's South Esk guide. Probably considerably harder (about C2+) if using clean gear only and ignoring the bolts. Note that nailing on what is now one of the gorge's most classic hard free climbs will probably result in you and your hammer getting evicted from the state and chased back into the 1960's where you belong.

A striking line, and a contender for the best route in the gorge. Originally done with 3 bolts (as it stands now it is equiped in the same style as the first ascent), it was the hardest climb in Tasmania at the time of the first ascent.

Start by climbing Long Knife and at ~5m place a runner (slinging the massive chockstone with a 240 runner seems to work a treat) start traversing left until the small seam is reached, place small RPs in the thin seam and then climb past a few FHs and good RPs at the lip to double chains at the top. A small cam - red or green C3 - can be nice for the very top.

Start as for Long Knife, clipping the first bolt on the arete out right, and continuing up the offwidth/chimney until at the same height as the 2nd bolt.

Traverse boldly right onto the arete to gain the 2nd bolt, then traverse boldly further right to gain the line of glue-in rings heading directly up the aesthetic arete.

Large Wires and large cams #3, #4/#5 to protect the initial crack. Consider climbing on 2-ropes and dropping the first once you gain the 2nd bolt on the arete to avoid hideous drag from the trad-section.

The direct start to Road to War up the arete. A great arete climb with three distinct boulder problem cruxes.

Open project? Line of FH’s R of Forgotten Sword