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Routes in Chateau Bloc

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Showing all 14 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
V7 The Dragon’s Lair

Rad Line coming out of the cave.

Sit start in the back right of the cave with low pockets. Avoid dabbing the boulder on the right. Come straight out on crimps with some fun tension moves. Little chossy but with some traffic will clean up nicely.

https://youtu.be/y5jeS6xxgfY

FA: Michael Taran, Oct 2022

Boulder 3m
V2 Rod's Dragon Cave

SDS low, slappy on the slopey edge and right jugs. https://youtu.be/y5jeS6xxgfY

FA: Gareth Wood, 20 Nov 2016

Boulder
V2/3 Rod's Dragon Cave, left

Left variant, a tad harder

Boulder
VB Warming up #1

Sit start and up the obvious scoop feature with a few possible ways to exit.

Boulder
V0 Warming up #2

Sit start and then up the arete.

Boulder
V2/3 Warming up #3

Sit start with left hand in the scoop and right hand low on the slopey dome-like hold. Come up through the face avoiding going all the way left to join 'Warming up #2' (this link earns you V1). A bit contrived but fun when done in the right spirit.

Boulder
V6 Mental Blocks

Sit start with low hands and squeeze your way up. Cruxy to establish then gets easier the higher you go. Avoid using the boulder to the left

Boulder
V7 Skipping with your mistress

Start under the boulder then sloper traverse to slab. https://vimeo.com/119337880

FA: Andy Lampard, Feb 2015

Boulder 3m
V1 …But jugs are easy

Sit start and traverse right on good holds over wet landing

Boulder
V11 Crimping ain't easy

Stand start on low left hand undercling and right hand high on slopey crimp. Hard start, then dyno to lip. https://vimeo.com/119337880

Note: Unfortunately the crimp that you dyno to has broken. The climb remains possible, with a bigger dyno to the lip and a larger swing out. Re-opened 5/6/22 by Tom O'Hallorhan! https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg

FA: Andy Lampard, Feb 2015

NA: Tom O'Halloran, 5 Jun 2022

Boulder 3m
Crimpin' Ain't Easy SDS

Hard sit start.

BoulderProject
V11/12 Whiting Club

Start as 'Crimping Ain't Easy'. Come out left to sloper and then straight up from sloper. Adds some hard moves to the original. https://youtu.be/pwsiUx_U2mg?t=320

FA: Tom O'Halloran, 5 Jun 2022

Boulder
Crimping can be harder proj

Start as for 'Crimping Ain't Easy' but from the flat edge traverse left over dodgy landing with slopey hold into good holds on the left.

BoulderProject
VB Afraid To Get Wet

Easy slab with a dodgy landing

Boulder

Showing all 14 routes.

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