Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Far Crag | |||||
28 | ★★ Locust Abortion Technician
Start as for Barad Dur. Once on the ledge step left so that you are below and 1m left of Barad Dur's crackline and climb directly up, staying within a metre of the crack. If you're on route the first bolt of Pizazz can be clipped prior to heading up but then you are relying on side runners in Barad Dur. FA: Simon Wilson, 1998 | 20m, 1 | |||
22 | ★★★ Barad Dur
Swing up the steep juggy wall immediately left of Eternal Damnation's undercut arete past a big rattly block to a ledge. Step right and go up to the roof. Now make a cramped step back left past a bolt onto an undercut wall to reach the base of the crack. Straight up the crack. FA: Stuart Fishwick & Richard Horn, 1970 | 20m, 1 | |||
V4 | ★ Far Crag Eliminate Traverse
| ||||
19 | ★ Shewoodenduit
Start: Follow Barrud Dur to the roof, then nip back right under this to a crack, which is climbed. FA: David Moriarty & Mike Waite, 1968 | 20m | |||
17 | ★ Shewoodenduit LHF
| 20m | |||
23 | ★★ Eternal Damnation
| 18m | |||
25 | ★★ Mad Germans By Torchlight
The face between Eternal Damnation's Arete and Lord's Prayer's Corner. Both of these routes are off limits. Begin as for Eternal Damnation and then continue up the face avoiding the arete of Eternal Damnation and corner of Lord's Prayer. FA: Adam Clay, 1991 | 18m | |||
15 | ★ Lords Prayer
Worth its grade for the start and some nice bridging moves up the corner. Start: Up the left hand corner to the right of 'Shewoodenduit'. | 17m | |||
19 | Sermon
| 17m | |||
18 | Sermon RHF
| 17m | |||
19 | Pulpit
FA: George Adams, 1969 | 15m | |||
17 | ★ Alms
| 15m | |||
14 | Joseph
| 14m | |||
19 | ★ Tabraj
| 14m | |||
17 R | ★★ Resurrection
Crux is essential unprotected, not a good climb for a grade 17 leader Start: Start at the boulder and make a nice move to gain the V - corner. | 14m | |||
24 | ★ Klutz
| 13m | |||
21 | ★★ Klutz Connection
| 14m | |||
22 | ★ Cioch
“Up the wall Right of RESURRECTION to a squatting rest beneath the Roof, Step left , Clip a bolt - Then fight Up to the nipple on the arete. Finish up the HAND CRACK. There are variants but the above mentioned is most popular “ Rock climbing around Adelaide. George Adams , John Dutton (14M3) 1970 TR Jim Olsen 20.10.74 FFLA Henry Barber 15.4.75 (19) FFLA Rod Young 18.9.79 (22) | 14m | |||
15 | Arev
FA: 2006 | 14m | |||
17 | ★ Road Show
| 14m | |||
12 | ★ Sheoak Corner
Start: Start from the olive tree. Up the open corner. Great introductory route. FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton & Terry Prime, 1968 | 15m | |||
18 | Sheoak Arete
The arete just right of Sheoak Corner FA: Rodger Alldritt, 1975 FFA: John Marshal, 1979 | 15m | |||
16 | ★ Golgotha
Climb the groove to a ramp below the roof. Over the roof and follow the crack. FA: Stuart Fishwick, George Adams & John Dutton, 1970 | 15m | |||
15 | ★ Tai-o-Toshi
Start: Over the bulge 1 metre right of 'Golgotha'. Up to the ledge right of the nose. Head up the groove just right of the arete. FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968 | 15m | |||
15 | ★ Tai Otoshi Direct Start
Up crack 1m R of Golgotha to base of rib. Place good #1 cam. Straight up rib to stance at start of Tai Otoshi's groove. Finish up that route. FFA: Paul Badenoch & Mark Witham, 2012 | 15m | |||
15 | ★ Shemademedoit
Wall with thin crack between Tai-o-Toshi and Ob-La-Di. Wouldn't be a FA, this may flush out the truth. FA: Paul Badenoch & Cynthia Palfreyman, 2005 | 15m | |||
16 | ★ Ob-la-di
The central line on the wall, taking care not to fall astride the sharp blade. Fortunately the protection is adequate. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide" FA: Mike Waite & Graham Hill, 1968 | 17m | |||
14 | Gunga Din
The corner on the right end of the red wall. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide" FA: Mike Waite, 1968 | 18m | |||
6 | Yggdrasil
| 13m | |||
7 | Drop Dead
| ||||
12 | ★ Sentry Box
| 11m | |||
19 | Sentry Box RHV
| 10m | |||
6 | Cork
The unappealing corner left of the Bung wall. | 9m | |||
24 | ★ Bung Left
Wall left of Bung Direct, staying out of the corner and not touching the central crack. FA: TR Kim Karrigan, 1979 FFA: Nick Neagle, 1988 | 13m | |||
23 X | ★★ Bung Direct
The central crack. The first (aided) route up the wall took 16 years before it went free. FA: Richard Horn & Stuart Fishwick (A3), 1968 FFA: Most likely Mike Law-Smith, 1984 | 13m | |||
20 X | ★★ Bung Original
"Original" in that it was the first variant on the wall to go free. Climb 'Bung Direct' to below the crux, step R, make a move up and then back L to the crack. FA: "Hot" Henry Barber, 1975 | 13m | |||
20 | ★★ Bung RHF
The most common way up the wall. Follow 'Bung Original' but do not move back L. Finish up the face between the crack and arete. FA: Unknown | 13m | |||
21 X | ★★ Bung Totally Right
Climb the R side of the wall, the crack and arete are off limits. FA: TR Colin Reece, 1979 | 13m | |||
15 | ★★ Shedidit
Lace the crack up with cams and nuts. Has a nice move just before topping out. Start: Climb the vertical crack just right of bung wall. FA: David Moriarty, Stuart Fishwick & Christine Shedley, 1968 | 13m | |||
7 | Sunout
The corner R of 'Shedidit' | ||||
17 | The Unnamed Seventeen
| 13m | |||
23 | ★ Illequipt Left Side
The black streak L of Illequipt, using that route for protection only. | 14m | |||
19 | ★ A Quiet Chat
Start up Illequipt Left Side and then move up and R into the Illequipt crack. | 13m | |||
18 | ★★ Illequipt
Move straight up on the right hand side of the wall until you reach a small block with a letter box slot. Step left and follow the crack. Start: Start on the right hand side of the wall right of 'Shedidit' crack. | 14m | |||
20 R | ★ The Crunge
Move directly up on the right hand side of the wall right of Illiquipt, avoiding the arete. Protection a little thin. | 14m | |||
8 | ★ Al Sirrat
The obvious arete. Not well protected. | 14m | |||
4 | Mud in Yer Eye
| 14m | |||
22 | ★ Legato Fae
The wall left of Asgard. Not allowed to use Asgard's holds. FA: Tony Barker & Paul Gray | 14m | |||
16 | ★ Asgard
Follow the flake in the centre of the first wall left of the descent route. | 15m | |||
16 | ★ Asgard Right Side
Stay R of the crack for holds and protection. The acronym was Mark's idea. FA: Paul Badenoch, Mark Witham, Chris Oerman & David Newell, 2009 | 15m | |||
8 | Cinch
Ledges and large cracks on the R of the asgard wall. The groove through the overhang is awkward. | 14m | |||
16 | ★★ The Scenic
Full traverse of Far Crag! | 150m | |||
12 | The Spanish Inquisition
Around R of the descent. FA: 1979 | 12m | |||
The Throne Room | |||||
9 | True Brit
| ||||
11 | True Brit RHV
| 9m | |||
8 | Harpic
| ||||
14 | Ajax
| 11m | |||
14 | Ajax Direct
| ||||
15 | Pine-o-clean
| ||||
6 | Logan
| 12m | |||
13 | Palomino
| 14m | |||
15 | Appaloosa
| 14m | |||
15 | Pony Express
FA: 1984 | 14m | |||
22 | ★ Cut Loose
| ||||
22 | ★★ Geronimo's Volkswagen DS
| ||||
21 | Geronimo's Volkswagen DS LHV
| 15m | |||
16 | ★ Geronimo's Volkswagen
| 15m | |||
6 | Zygon
| ||||
12 | ★ Limited Options
| 14m | |||
6 | Hayfever
| ||||
5 | Picnic
| ||||
11 | Slugs on Jugs
| 14m | |||
13 | Wounded Slug
| 13m | |||
13 | Wounded Slug RHS
| 13m | |||
14 | ★ Wounded Slug RHF
| 13m | |||
13 | Carmel
| 12m | |||
12 | Painted Dragon
FA: 1985 | 12m | |||
11 | The Black Slug
| 11m | |||
12 | Say Please When Climbing
FA: John Marshall & George Adams, 1976 | 10m | |||
16 | Royal Flush
| ||||
The Boulder Bridge | |||||
4 | Loose Living
| 18m | |||
4 | Tora
| 18m | |||
6 | Pandemonium
FA: 1971 | 19m | |||
15 | ★ Finish
Arete and wall L of the Start corner. Okay protection. FA: Paul Gray & Paul Badenoch, 9 Apr 2022 | 19m | |||
8 | Start
FA: Mike Ball & V. Venness, 1971 | 19m | |||
9 | Justine
FA: Iain Allan, 1971 | 19m | |||
15 | Cocolossal
| 18m | |||
16 | ★★★ Muesli
Start: Start on the left side of the orange wall. Nice continuous climbing up the flake. Gain a rest on the ledge and continue up the arete. FA: Col Reece & Mike Round, 1972 | 18m | |||
19 | ★★ Muesli Direct Finish
Climb Muesli then at the Extra G variant move R to below the bulge and continue directly up the face L of Extra G. FA: Adam Clay, 2008 | 18m | |||
26 | ★★★ The Big Breakfast
Start up Muesli (trad gear) then reverse the traverse of Extra G Connection straight into the crux of Geronimo's Cadillac, then finish as for Geronimo's Corvette. Longest route on the wall. FA: Redanon, 7 Feb 2017 | 18m, 4 | |||
21 | ★★★ Extra G
Very nice sustained wall climb. Start: Start as for muesli and continue for 6 metres to where 2 small horizontals allow you step out on to the wall to the right. Climb over a small bulge to reach a thin seam and follow this to where it curls of right. Clip the bolt and go for the top. FA: Tony Barker & Steve Moore | 18m, 1 | |||
24 | ★ Special K
FA: Steve Kelly | 18m | |||
24 | ★★ Extra G Connection
Start up Geronimo's Cadillac. Traverse left after the first bolt to join Extra G. | 17m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★ Grurper's Skateboard
Starts up Geronimo's Cadillac as far as the second bolt then goes up and a little left from there: a couple of fine vertical crimps off to the left and then straight over the bulge to grab a quartz knob, swings up and there is a nice sequence of dynamic moves on the lip of the bulge reminiscent of a skateboarding move. From the skateboard move the route continues straight up (small crystal finger pocket) and a tricky sequence at the top, sustained until the last move. The line avoids all the holds on Muesli and Extra G. FA: Roger DuBois & John Nitschke, 2005 | 3 | |||
26 | ★★★ Geronimo's Cadillac
Takes a direct line after the 2nd bolt (basically eliminating the jug rest to the right). Contrived, but if you want the 26 label, this is the way to do it. Has over the years been muddled with the RHV (25 - and the obvious line using the jug). FA: Rob Knott, 1992 | 17m, 4 | |||
25 | ★★★ Geronimo's RHV
GC but with the benefit of using the jug out right. The standard way of climbing this line nowadays, and mistaken as the full 26 version by many. FA: Mike Law-Smith | 15m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ Geronimo's Corvette
Take Geronimo's Cadillac (direct version) to the half height rest, then launch past 2 more bolts through a final boulder problem right of the original finish. Slightly harder than GC. FA: Simon Wilson | 18m | |||
12 | Armageddon
| 15m | |||
19 | ★ Amazing Graze
FA: 1985 | 15m | |||
12 | Black Cat
| 17m |