Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Top Cliff Bacchus Sector | |||||
5 | Nipples
FA: John Kenny & Mark Witham, 1988 | 5m | |||
6 | Milk Run
FA: Mike Ashton & Geoff Lloyd, 1980 | 7m | |||
7 | Ruff Red
FA: Phil Weston & Stuart McLeod, 1976 | 15m | |||
8 | ★ Nev's Rise and Fall
FA: Damian Gray & Mark Ealing, 1990 | 15m | |||
5 | Scouts in Kingcabs
FA: Paul Gray (solo), 1988 | 20m | |||
12 | ★ Sauterne
Start: Climb the corner to a peg at 10 metres. Step right just above this to access a big ledge. Carry on directly. FA: Mike Ball & Alan Coghlan, 1972 | 20m | |||
12 | ★ Sauterne Direct Start
Virtually a separate route to 'Sauterne'. Start: Climb directly up the nose to the right of 'Sauterne'. FA: Colin Reece & Peter Klopotowski, 1976 | 20m | |||
10 | ★ Sauterne Straight
Start: Continue directly through the bulge above the pin. FA: Colin Greig & Paul Francis, 1989 | 20m | |||
18 | ★ Easter Eggs
Pleasant climbing up a thin off-vertical wall. 'Sauterne' and 'Sauterne Direct Start' are off limits. This has been graded between 17-20 depending on how much is avoided! Thin on protection down low. Start: The wall between 'Sauterne' and its Direct Start avoiding both. FA: Dave Atkins (TR), 1982 FFA: Mark Witham, 1986 | 20m | |||
11 | ★ Frontignac
FA: George Adams & Colin Magor, 1972 | 22m | |||
16 | ★ Rye Comment
The direct start to Scotch Missed's arete, via a tiny corner. SM's bolt was clipped on the FLA. FA: Paul Gray, Mark Witham & Paul Badenoch, 18 Jun 2022 | 22m, 1 | |||
18 | ★ Scotch Missed
A tentative move before clipping the carrot bolt. Start: Start 1.5 left of Ouzo and head up the corner below the roof. Reach over this to clip a carrot bolt. Pull up left onto the arete (bypassing the next roof) and follow this. FA: Mike Ashton (TR), 1980 FFA: Nick Neagle (prior to the bolt), 1986 | 22m, 1 | |||
19 | ★ Help I'm a Rock
Scotch Missed to the carrot bolt then continue directly through the second roof and finish up the centre of the wall. FA: Peter Cooper & David Paull, 1987 | 22m, 1 | |||
19 | ★ Help I'm a Rock Star
As for HIAR except don't grab the jug above the carrot bolt! FA: Alan McCulloch & Paul Francis, 1987 | 22m, 1 | |||
20 | ★ More Bald than Bold
FA: Mark Witham & Paul Francis, 1988 | 22m | |||
15 | ★ Ouzo
Despite conspiracy theorist touts that there are incredible runouts the pro is solid in the very small wire range. Swing past Rundle Street and pick up some brass offsets / RP’s then blast up the corner placing fine gear as the face steepens, move left over the bulge before finding another fine wire. Bomber gear ahead, move up and into the crack in the right wall before tackling the summit block head on. Steal a star off Bacchus. FA: Colin Reece (TR), 1972 FFA: Mike Broadbent, 1978 | 22m | |||
15 | Ouzo RHV
Link up Ouzo to Sticklebrickette. Start on Ouzo stepping right under the bolt on Absolute Alcohol. Take the hanging blade of AA RHV. Continue across Bacchus and onto the Sticklebrickette ledge. Up the crack, (or exit on any of the the former lines). | 25m, 1 | |||
23 | Spiders at the Ritz
| 22m | |||
17 | ★★ Absolute Alcohol
Start: Climb the right side of the arete right of Ouzo. Clip the old peg at 8m. Balancy move up left through corner, to a bolt. Follow crack then step right to final arête. FA: Colin Reece, 1976 | 23m, 1 | |||
18 | ★★ Absolute Alcohol Direct Start
Start up Ouzo and head for the Balancy corner with the bolt. FA: Mark Witham & Jeff Smith, 1985 | 23m, 1 | |||
15 | ★★ Absolute Alcohol RHV
As for 'Absolute Alcohol', but escape right to the hanging blade. Stay right and head straight up | 23m, 1 | |||
18 | ★ Gin
FA: Mark Witham & Jeff Smith, 1986 | 23m | |||
14 | ★★ Bacchus
This is a must, nice bridging on good rock. Start: The main corner below the sheoak tree. FA: Martin Bell & Alan Coghlan, 1972 | 23m | |||
19 | ★★ Sticklebrickette
A nice climb with the bolt at the crux. Start: Immediately right of 'Bacchus'. Move around right from the initial undercling. Head up to the bolt over the small roof and follow the crack. FA: Mark Witham, 1986 | 23m, 1 | |||
23 | ★ Supa Deli
FA: Stuart Williams (TR), 1988 FFA: Nick Neagle, 1989 | 23m | |||
20 | ★ Sticklebrick
FA: Mark Witham, 1986 | 24m | |||
22 | Stickbrick Direct
FA: climb boulder problem, up slab, then through three roofs without using bridging or arete - contrived bullocks - probably undergraded by me & sorry | 24m | |||
20 | ★★ On the Rocks
Start: 1 metre right of 'Bacchus'. Climb boulder problem to slab. Move up to the roof and clip a carrot bolt before stepping boldly out to your right into the bottomless corner. Work your way directly up. FA: Mike Broadbent & Simon Wooley, 1980 | 24m, 1 | |||
15 | ★ Mike and the Mechanic
FA: Mark Witham, Jenny Ashton & Mike Ashton, 1989 | 28m | |||
22 | ★ Surfing With an Alien
FA: Mark Witham, 1988 | 25m, 1 | |||
22 | ★ Mead
FA: Jeff Smith (TR), 1986 FFA: David Ellis, 1998 | 25m, 1 | |||
19 | ★★ Hard People
Start: Start left of Sandpiper's initial corner and head to the thin seam just right of the arete above. Climb the wall just right of this to reach a shallow niche. Undercling the block above and carry on up the overhanging seam. FA: Mark Witham (TR), 1984 FFA: Sandy Hancock, 1987 | 25m | |||
20 | ★ Certain Substances
Climb the arête with the triangular roof, just right of Sandpiper. Cross that route, and climb the red wall right of Hard People's sentry box. FA: Paul Gray & Mark Witham, 1987 | 25m | |||
18 | ★ Sandpiper LHV
Sandpiper to the ledge, then L and up Hard People. FA: Mike Broadbent & Gary Scott | 25m | |||
13 | ★ Sandpiper
FA: Colin Magor & K Chapman, 1972 | 25m | |||
14 | ★ Houses in Motion
FA: M Witham, Jeff Smith & Robert Moog, 1989 | 28m | |||
14 | ★ Ruthless People
FA: Mike Broadbent & Gary Scott, 1978 | 27m | |||
13 | ★ Add Hock
FA: Mike Ashton & Catherine Pye, 1980 | 25m | |||
12 | Plonk
FA: Mike Ashton & Catherine Pye, 1980 | 25m | |||
13 | Pernod
FA: Mike Ashton & Catherine Pye, 1980 | 25m | |||
14 | ★★ XXXX
Start just R of Pernod and head way L to finish up Sticklebrickette's crack. FA: Jones & Ashton, 1980 | 28m | |||
15 | ★ Cherry B
The obvious line through the overhang. Step up and over then trend left before continuing up. FA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham, Finius & Helen Pope, 1989 | 25m | |||
13 | Baby Cham
Start as for Cherry B. From under the overhang escape across the clever line to the right. Thin moves on flat low angled rock are excellent at the grade. Straight up. FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Gray, 1987 | 25m | |||
9 | Red Mountain
FA: Martin Bell & Ed Wightman, 1972 | 25m | |||
14 | Ice 9
FA: Stuart Simmonds & Russell Nash, 1989 | 25m | |||
11 | ★ The Lords of Karma
FA: Andrew Rattray & Stuart Simmonds, 1989 | 25m | |||
10 | ★ Half Nip
A lovely climb with the crux in the first 2 moves. Start as for the nips are getting smaller. Up to the horizontal at about 2.5m for good cam placement. Now step left to arete and straight up. Continue up arete to an open book corner. Place good runner in the corner and step left onto arete. Continue up arete to the top. FA: Mark Witham, paul gray & Paul Badenoch, 1 Oct 2023 | 13m | |||
17 | The Nips are Getting Smaller
FA: Nick Neagle & Grant Tode, 1986 | 25m | |||
19 R | Mickey Finn
A short pleasant route using some delicate bridging. Hard to protect. FA: Paul Francis, Nick Neagle & Mark Witham, 1986 | 25m | |||
11 | ★ Warm Beer
FA: Paul Francis & Nick Neagle, 1986 | 26m | |||
20 | A Different Drummer
FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987 | 25m | |||
14 | ★★ Boner Fido
FA: Mark Witham & Russell Nash, 1989 | 24m | |||
Top Cliff Riesling Sector | |||||
9 | Moselle
FA: Peter Beavis & J Bowman, 1982 | 20m | |||
Beavis Descent Route
FA: Peter Beavis (solo) | 100m | ||||
13 | Dork Walk
FA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham & Alan McCulloch, 1987 | 20m | |||
8 | Chablis/Grenache
FA: Ian Jackson & B Potter, 1972 | 20m | |||
17 | ★ Reisling LHV
A pikers version starting L of the bulge, then back to the short corner. FA: Paul Francis & Mark Witham, 1987 | 20m | |||
18 | ★ Riesling
FA: Peter Beavis (TR), 1981 FFA: Sandy Hancock, 1988 | 20m | |||
19 | ★ Avoiding Reisling
The bulgy start of Reisling, then R up Titties and Beer. FA: Sandy Hancock & Roland Tyson, 1987 | 20m | |||
18 | ★ Titties and Beer
One crappy carrot that can also be used for Avoiding Riesling. FA: Grant Tode & Nick Neagle, 1986 | 20m, 1 | |||
21 | DTs
FA: Paul Gray, Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987 | 20m | |||
18 | Hartless
FA: Michael Hartman, Mark Witham, Paul Francis & Paul Francis, 1997 | 10m | |||
17 | Gerbils on Vacation
| 20m | |||
8 | Gorbitchoss
Crack linking what used to be Gerbils on Vacation to Cabernet. FA: Witham, Moog & Hughes, 1986 | ||||
10 | Cabernet
FA: Ian Jackson, 1972 | 21m | |||
7 | Urea Diluted
FA: Peter Klopotowski & Phil Weston, 1976 | 20m | |||
16 | Bundy
FA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham & Paul Gray, 1987 | 20m | |||
11 | Willy Wonka's Chocolate Factory
FA: Mike, Mike Ashton & Jenny Ashton, 1989 | 20m | |||
15 | Lime Spiders
FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987 | 20m | |||
15 | Depth Charge
FA: Nick Neagle & Ron Parker, 1988 | 20m | |||
11 | Procrastinate Now!
FA: Mike Ashton & Jenny Ashton, 1989 | 20m | |||
11 | ★ Shiraz
FA: Ian Jackson, 1972 | 20m | |||
22 | Two Pints of Lager and a Packet of Crisps Please
FA: Nick Neagle, 1988 | 20m | |||
18 | Southwark
FA: P Beavis, I Signorelli, R Armitage & A Cantley (grade 9), 1980 FFA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987 | 20m | |||
14 | ★ Closet Drinker
FA: Paul Francis, Mark Witham & Grant Tode, 1986 | 25m | |||
9 | Grot
FA: Mike Ball & Phil Fradd, 1972 | 25m | |||
Top Cliff Beer Garden Sector | |||||
6 | Porridge
FA: Ian Jackson & B Potter | 25m | |||
13 | Velcro Merkin
FA: Mark Witham & Paul Grey, 1987 | 26m | |||
7 | Southern Comfort
FA: Stuart McLeod & Phil Weston, 1976 | 26m | |||
18 | Lust in the Dust
FA: Nick Neagle & Damien Barrett, 1987 | 25m | |||
19 | Lusting
FA: Mark Witham, 1988 | 25m | |||
21 | Leave it to Beavis
FA: Mark Witham & Nick Neagle, 1987 | 25m | |||
13 | Dubonnet
FA: Peter Klopotowski & Phil Weston, 1979 | 25m | |||
21 | Gorbit
FA: Mark Witham & Jeff Smith, 1986 FFA: Nick Neagle, 1986 | 25m | |||
21 | Stretch for Short
FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987 | 25m | |||
21 | Night Flight
FA: Nick Neagle, 1987 | 18m | |||
12 | Beer Tricks
FA: Mark Witham & Robert Moog, 1986 | 17m | |||
22 | Rambo
FA: Robert Moog, 1986 | 17m | |||
18 | Namby Pamby
FA: Mark Witham & Paul Grey, 1988 | 17m | |||
20 | ★ Spanish Bicycle Sex
FA: (TR) Dave Atkins Aug 1990 (FLA) Mark Witham Dec 1990 | 17m | |||
23 | Blade Runner
FA: Dave Atkins, 1987 | 17m | |||
21 | ★ Animal Noises
FA: Mark Witham & Paul Francis, 1988 | 21m | |||
17 | ★ Physical Graffiti
FA: Mark Witham & Robert Moog, 1987 | 21m | |||
Top Cliff The Alcove Sector | |||||
20 | Sunday Session
FA: Mark Witham & Nick Neagle, 1989 | 21m | |||
14 | ★ Cocktail Party
FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987 | 21m | |||
14 | Guinness Pig
FA: Mark Witham & Claire Gough, 1988 | 25m | |||
19 | Partners in Grime
FA: Mark Witham & Paul Francis, 1988 | 21m | |||
15 | ★ Six O'Clock Rush
FA: Nick Neagle & Paul Francis, 1987 | 20m | |||
19 | Tapdancing
FA: Mark Witham & Jeff Smith, 1987 | 20m | |||
20 | The Cones of Silence
FA: Mark Witham & Nick Neagle, 1987 | 20m |