Routes in Onkaparinga

Direct start to Get Smart.

A L to R traverse of Top Cliff. Grade can be highly variable dependant only on which crux moves you choose to include. Staying about mid-height the whole way gives reasonable climbing on some of the best rock. First ascensionists reached Dubonnet before enthusiasm (or daylight) expired. Paul extended the route to the very end of the cliff.

"A line L of Auld l'Anxiety starting from the big gum tree"

Up the bolts just R of Eric's poxy starting groove then trend L to the base of the neat wall between Venom's arete and Bumblee's final corner. Up the centre of the wall with a move L near the top.

Climb Eric until the far left corner at mid heigtht. Instead of veering right up the face, continue in the large crack trending left.

Begin up the bolts as for Snake Oil. Move L into the start of Eric's shrubby ramp to avoid the overlaps then climb straight up the fine wall. The top few metres would be shared with Eric.

A link up of the start line of bolts of born under punches, finishing for the last 4 bolts of Crosseyed and Painless on the arete. This makes for another 20 sport route at Snakelands.

Start: Follow Bumblee to the stance atop the initial groove. Clip a bolt up right, then make thin moves up and left past another bolt to an overlap. Over this and on past a 3rd bolt to a 2nd overlap. Continue to the base of the corner. Up this briefly before moving out right past 2 more bolts en route to the arete. Bolt number 6 protects the final slab move.

Climbs Burning Down the House to its last bolt, then step left to the very steep arete and climb this past 2 bolts to gain the slab. Finish for the last metre or two of Born Under Punches. Note: Incorrectly labelled as 'Fully Involved' in the 2024 guide. Sharp, and not particularly much fun.

Central line up the slab. Starts on the right past the hangerless bolt but a better start slightly left to clip bolts on life in wartime then move to the (old) looking bashed head bolt. Crimpy face climbing to a big runout to the final single bolt then either traverse right to join close to the fire's roof crack or make a couple of moves past the bolt to big letter box hold on the left then traverse right to join close to the fire's final moves through the roof crack. Alternatively keep going through the roof (Fully Involved).

The long awaited solution to the 27-year-old open project of Burning Down the House direct finish. Climb the original route to its single bolt loweroff (grade 20 to here), then go straight up to a large jug at the base of the steep wall (not the arete to the left as shown in the 2024 guide). Big moves through the roof lead to disappointing slopers at the base of the short hanging slab, then a further problematic sequence to top out.

Start: Follow BDTH to the 2nd overlap, then traverse right past another bolt until almost at the arete. Pull over the overlap and move right to join Close to the Fire. Finish up that.

Up the second line of bolts a few metres R of Pop on Top. Best value to get to the DBB from the R.

Start beneath left end of roof 5m right of 'Fancy French Tickler' (or approx 8m left of 'Roll with the Punches'). Up the corner then move left past the roof. Trend back right to a brushed streak and head straight up to a SBB. 4BRs but some trad may be required.

The start of Ten Days Without Sheep, half the Swamp Juice traverse, the wall midway between those routes. After the top bulge, move L to the belay bolt of TDWS. Small wires to a runnout finale, double ropes. Adequately cleaned and brushed (IMHO!)

Follow Ten Days until above the roof, then traverse 6m right along the lip then straight up (last half of the 'Intense Adult Action' project) to SBB. Anchor currenly needs replacing and the line is somewhat dirty. Requires some trad to supplement bolts.

Line through the roof left of Roll with the Punches, finishing up Swamp Juice. A project since the 90's.

Climb short easy wall to a cam break under the roof, then stretch out and clip 1st BR on lip. Bust a sequence to the next horizontal (crux), then up blank corner past 2nd BR to a jug. The whole route drops about 8 grades thereafter for the final 10 metres (trad). Finish at good rap anchor. High level water will affect the base so plan on doing this in drier weather. Shade in summer until approx 10.00am. Shade late afternoon. Best approach is from above (rap in).

The crux will explain everything. Pull onto wall and traverse right then straight up past a carrot (plate required). Up and right again a couple of moves, then straight up via a powerful undercling sequence to gain the final roof. Pull the lip (crux) and try not to leave anything behind. 5 BR's to DBB.

Line through roof right of Hurt Locker. Step off boulder to gain wall then up and left to hanging ledge. Over this to next horizontal under roof, then undertake a 5 move boulder problem up to and through the next roof. Finish up headwall, trending left to HL finish.

Lures you into a position you don't want to be in. Start as for Property Settlement bt then take the left trending line over small roof via an 8mm crimp sequence, then a very technical arete (crux) leads to easier terrain.

A route is cheaper. Jump for jug off boulder (or pull onto wall above pond) at the end of the reed bed (approx. 5m left of ‘Gostrich’). Head up past horizontals trending slightly left to rooflet. Pull through via a prominent undercling then up wall via a technical crux to a good stance. Move diagonally right across face to hanging arête, then up. 6BRs to DBB. Access via rap in above Roll with the Punches or easy waterline traverse on RH side of wall below Gostrich.

Unknown first ascent starting 1m left of Gostrich LHV and going straight up past approx 4 carrot bolts. A lower chain exists at the top but any fixed gear 6m prior to that does not. Take some trad.

Avoids the crux of the original line. Start 5m left of the corner and follow rising left to right diagonal into the corner, then follow the original route.

The big RH corner at the RH end of Waterloo Wall. Traverse in from the right or rap in.

Follow Gostrich to dicky mantle move, then step right and jam the widening crack to a sit down rest atop the pedestal. Traverse left to the bottom of a large flake, and layback this to a bolt in the face. Continue out to the arete and finish easily.

The wall right of the arete of Ghost Riders.

About 3m L of The Gaffer to join that route at the big ledge.

The Gaffer to the ledge then the crack line 2m R of that route. The crack is about grade 11 and well protected with medium/large cams. Finish at The Gaffer chains.

Begin as for Quokka Desire but climb the wall 2m L of that route.

The open rounded corner above a small roof at the L end of the crag.

Begin just R of Quokka and climb onto a big block below the L end of the roof. Step up R (be wary of the flakes) then head directly to the arête and continue.

Retrobolted. The only rings in the area. Up face 1.5m L of the corner, through small roof to bulges above and a DBB.

Begin just R of Quokka and climb onto a big block below the L end of the roof. Step up R (be wary of the flakes) then head directly to the arête and continue

Start 1.5m L of the corner at the R end of the wall. Through the small roof and continue up the bulgy wall above

Start at the small gum tree. Monkey onto wall, continue up left to break and then through bulges.

Right of nose on wall starting left of single bolt belay. Thin moves up slab to ledge. Pull through roof around large block on right then easily up left to chains.

Right of nose on wall starting right of single bolt belay. Thin moves up slab to Break below streaked bulge. Pull through roof using blades.

Distinct line of ring bolts leading to very technical crux off a huge jug right near the top.

Climb right trending diagonal line to a prominent horizontal below a groove/series of vertical sidepulls. Undertake an interesting crux sequence through these to gain shelf up and left. Further jug hauling brings the anchor to hand.

A good route that is not hard for the grade and is well protected. Good holds and moves the whole way.

Takes the right hand line through the worst rock quality in this sector. Climb up off the hand traverse chain to a series of loose jugs and flakes (if you must).

History’s cloudy but first bolted in early 2000’s with home made hangers. Recently re equiped. Climb easy face to traverse line. Move around bulge through a tricky clip to chockstone under final roof. Thin holds gain the slab above to lower off anchor.

1 historic hanger left on route but not needed for line. First accent was to original double hangers on the lip of the roof but since extended above head wall for a better finish.

Same start as for Redemption. At the end of horizontal traverse head directly up through marginal holds before mantling over roof. Finish at Redemption anchor.

Dirty and loose. Direct line left of Shelf Life up to chain under big roof then continuation out to arete and finish at top anchor.

Up chossy slab to corner, then launch out left across the short hand traverse then up arete to horizontal traverse line and traverse left all the way out onto the hanging arete (crux). Finish up final easy headwall, or better still, just back climb from there.

Aka ‘Pikers Variant’. Climb Shelf Life to halfway (the first anchor). Back clean.