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Land of the Overhangs

Land of the Overhangs is just south of the summit aerials. Drive over the top coming from Harcourt and turn right as if you are heading towards Dog Rocks. Shortly, turn off the road on the right-hand side near some aerials/buildings to park in an open area. Take the path to Shepherd's Flat which winds down and left to get to the boulders. Some on/around the path, and a few higher up the hillside.

Flat Crack Area

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Flat Crack Area
VB Flat Crack

Just south of the summit. Climb the highball crack from a stand start.

V4 The Kite Runner

Climb up the centre of the featured face. Original finish goes to the right at the top, but the high sloppy mantle is doable. Six metres right of Flat Crack.

V4 The Bean face

Sit start on low rail and good foot, traverse diagonally up and left along the obvious line of holds to finish on the jug at the top left of the wall. Top out via Alley Bummer. Long!

VB The Alley Bummer

The chimney just left of The Kite Runner

VB Men who stare at Levi's arse

On the back of the Kite Runner boulder, 5m south of Flat Crack, climb the short, uphill face. Sit start.

VB The Turd

On the boulder facing 'Men who stare at Levi's arse'

Sit-start at the bottom of the the crack, move left to turd shaped hold then up.

VB An actual VB

Thinking some of the VBs in the area are a bit ridiculous? Give this one a crack.

Sit-start at the bottom of the crack, move right to good rail and up.

The Scorpion

About 10m South of the main Flat Crack boulders facing downhill towards the Coffee Bean boulders.

Sit-start at the arete with left hand on jug and right on nothing or crimp if you can reach. Use good side pulls to climb arete on downhill facing side.

Its called the scorpion for a reason! Be careful of funnel webs as well.

Only around a V2 grade. Goodluck!

Coffee Bean Area

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Coffee Bean Area
V4 Bombe Alaska

Downhill and right from 'Love and Theft' on the big boulders near the track. Stand-start and climb the hanging arete.

V1 Wedge-tailed Eagle

This problem is on the Raptor boulder, a ways downhill from the lookout, fronting the walking track.

On the uphill face of the boulder, climb the left most line on the steeping slab via a high crimp. Stand start.

V0 Black-shouldered Kite

Climb the central line up the slab, just to the right of Wedge-tailed Eagle. Stand start.

VB Black-breasted Buzzard

Climb the right line on the slab, stand starting at the slight bulge right of Black-shouldered Kite.

V3 Eastern Barn Owl

Climb the thin face to a gravelly mantle.

V6 Scarlet Robin

Stand start and climb the arete. Finish with a mantle on the left hand side.

V3 Not a seer, a cook

5m uphill of the Raptor boulder. Sit start the slopey rail in the tiny little alcove.

V3 *Name pending*

On the boulder 3m uphill from the Raptor boulder. Squeeze up the double arete from a sit start.

V3 Uli's project

Starts easy on a line rising line of good holds; ends at an almost blank mantle. Lucky the feet are so big! More scary than hard.

VB- Coffee Bean Crack

Climb the high, easy angled hand crack. Watch the loose block near the top!

V0 Teach your friends to mantle

Single move mantle just to the right of 'Coffee Bean Crack'. Start both hands on the hold at the right, left heel on the chalked nub.

V4 Teach your friends how to cave climb

Climb from inside the cave to the L of Teach your friends how to mantle. Start on the jug at the end of the dirty rail. Pull around the edge and follow the mantle. Hardest part is keeping your ass off the ground

Mike's project

Open project on the arête, uphill side of coffee bean Boulder. High and technical.

V6 Meditation, mindfulness, and secret weapons

From the crimps on the lip, head up and left through small sharp holds and heel hooks.

VB- These shoes were made for slabbing

This climb is on the back of the 'Meditation' boulder, 30 south of the Raptor boulder and fronting the walking track.

An easy no-hands problem on the uphill side of the boulder.

V0 Blocky walk

When you're facing Raptor Boulder this is the line directly behind you. Follow quartz blocks to the top, sit start is trickier. FA done with a brush in my mouth

The Grovel Pit

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

The Grovel Pit
V1 Mr Grovels

Climb the offwidth... if you actually like these things.

Grovel Pit Project 1

Climb the left facing flake from a hard sit start.

Grovel Pit Project 2

Climb the double sided flake, 10 meters left of Mr Grovel.

Love and Theft Area

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Love and Theft Area
V8 Love and Theft

This is located quite far to the left of the main roof area (when facing the climbs). An amazing line and a 3-star classic! Start low at the arete and climb leftwards before topping out at the highest point.

V4 Hawks in Flight

Sit start on the undercling/crack and make a tough move up to the good hold. From here move up onto the slab using a foothold out left. Top out without using the obvious good holds out left.

V2 Tiger Tread

Left of Spittle project. Stand start using a low pocket on the right hand side of the arete. Climb up the arete. At the top move left until you get a good hold about 1m left of the arete. Top out via a mantle. Loose!

Spittle Project

On the boulder facing Love and Theft. Mantle.

Quantum Project

On the boulder facing Love and Theft. Mantle.

V0 Election Rejection

Right of Quantum project. Stand start and climb the arete/wall. Surprisingly solid rock for this boulder!

Technique Boulder

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Technique Boulder
V5 Technique Traverse

Traverse all the way avoiding the other boulder and tree to top out just around the corner.

V1 Technique Direct

Stand start the slab on the left.

V4 Technique

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

V1 First Impressions

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

V1 Directly

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

VB Seven Virgins

Climb the slab just to the right of Directly. Stand start.

V2 The Technique of a Yetti

Stand start without many feet. Climb the crack on the northern side of the boulder.

V4 Legend of the Yeti

Climb The Sunset Stretch to the end of the ramp, then move left via tricky moves to join the crack of Technique of a Yeti. Finish up the crack.

V4 The Sunset Stretch

Sit start with the LH jugs and RH crimp. A big start move leads to the good rail, from which another big move gains the slopy top out.

V4 Uncertain Lifestyles

On downhill/western side of the technique boulder. Sit start hugging the arete. Gets an upgrade to V4... especially compared to the routes on uphill side of technique boulder.

V1 Grits

Located downhill of the main technique boulder. Sit start with your right hand on undercling and left on rounded side-pull. Climb up crimp rail to rounded top-out. Hollow flake is out.

Land of the Overhangs Boulder

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Land of the Overhangs Boulder
V2 Tugger

On the boulder across from Uncertain Lifestyles (to the south).

Sit start the fridge-like arete, RH crimp and LH slap. Slap up, mantle and topout.

V2 Landslide

Start beneath Land of Plenty and traverse left avoiding the crack/jugs. Gain large slopey crimp and top out.

V4 Land of Plenty

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

V4 A Wonderful Life in the Country

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

V5 Land of the Overhangs

Sit-start and use the holds on the inside wall. Markedly harder than the other V4s here and harder than Four Tet. V5 it is.

V8 Zulu

Climb Land of the Overhangs to the lip (but don't use the big holds at the top) and then traverse the lip to finish up Land of Plenty. Good climbing.

V4 Housebreaker

Stand start with feet on the large ledge across the gap and climb the overhanging crack.

V6 Shipbuilding

Start as for Arlo and Jez Build a House. Sitstart and then move left to the large leaning rail feature. From here traverse left and up following the seam until topping out at the highest point. The landing slopes away which is a bit disconcerting. Crux is the first half of the traverse. Eases with height. It's a great line. EDIT (17/10/19): Changed grade to V6 on reflection.

V4 Arlo and Jez Build a House

Sitstart on the sloping hold and then move to the large rail. Do a big slap over the bulge and then finish up the groove.

Gambler's Boulder

PLEASE READ IF IT IS YOUR FIRST TIME TO MT ALEXANDER

Most of Mt Alexander is a regional (not national) park, so while climbing is permitted general rules apply; dogs are permitted on leash, fires only in established fire places (from Parks Victoria website).

Being able to climb at Mt Alexander is a privilege and climbers need to act accordingly; especially given the increased amount of climbers frequenting the area due to Grampians closures. Please do not drop litter (e.g. fingertape) - in fact, if you can, remove any litter you see when you leave. Please keep to existing trails where you can. Do not engage in overzealous cleaning of climbs - keep it to the minimum. Don't harm any trees. Be courteous to fellow users of the park.

Toilets are available at the Leanganook campground and at the mountain bike park near the Oak Forest (close to Harcourt). Should you need to defecate please do so in accordance with established practices for wilderness behaviour (e.g. stay away from water courses, digging a hole etc).

Please see individual access notes for each area.

Gambler's Boulder
V0 Snake Eyes

Climb the slab with the two knobs

V0 Roll the Dice

Climb the slab

V1 Seams to be cheating.

Climb the seams

Gambler's open project 3

Sit start downhill of the arete left of Seams to be cheating. Fun moves on some suspect rock. Top needs to be cleaned.

Gambler's twin cracks

Climb the twin cracks

Gambler's open project 2

Climb the face under the tree.

V3 The Reptile Room

In the boulders below Gambler's Boulder. Stand start and climb the rib/arete to the knob just over the top. Top out standing on the knob.

Ash's to Ashes Boulder

The arete of Ash's to Ashes can be seen ~20m downhill and left of Land of the Overhangs boulder.

Ash's to Ashes Boulder
V3 Ash's to Ashes

Sit start or stand start and climb the arete. Same grade for both.

V3 Charlie's Face

Wasn't climbed by Creese... bizarre! Excellent if you like slabs, probably horrifying if you don't. Crux near the top. Straight up guts of fantastic black slab.

V6/7 Ashes in our Mouthes

Tough stand start matched on the obvious hold on the left side of arete between AtA and FT. Hard for the grade. Will go from a sit start via a couple of proper hard moves. Static start for the grade, V6 with a hop.

The Last Great Prow

It's not... but it is fantastic! From sit start with RH lay away and not much for left. Hard move to LH layaway then direct up prow with awesome compression moves. Had been climbed from a stand at V7 until the LH layaway broke. Now markedly smaller and harder.

V3 Four Tet Direct

Stand start with left hand on arete and climb directly into FT. Bizarrely straight forward.

V5 Four Tet

Sit start out right sitting on the boulder. Hands on the positive holds with a right foot toe hook around the right arete. Nice moves on positive holds leads leftwards to the crux reach for the arete which is climbed to the finish. A nice climb on good holds.

V4 Exit moves (for a climb)

As for Four Tet but use the good sidepull in the middle for the left hand and then finish direct up the wall and mantle. Don't use the arete.

V0 No Famine

On the back of the boulder - no photo topo. Sit start using the good hold and then make a move up and left to the potato. Mantle to finish. Interesting holds. A short problem.

Shelf Boulder

Short boulder with one worthwhile route.

Shelf Boulder
V1 The Shelf

Short, but worthwhile boulder just off the track. Sit start with hands on the obvious shelf, mantle, then traverse right around arete to top out.

Showing all 79 nodes.

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