Showing all 26 nodes.
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Garden Boulders
The Garden Boulders exist on the lefthand side of the valley (when approaching from the south), of which Scorpian Rocks lies at the head. It is a small area to the left of the main path. If you head to the right up the hillside you get to the Lord Area and eventually Dog Rocks. Park at the Oak Forest and walk up the old access road. First ascents by a cast of thousands (possibly) including: Pete Reynolds, Simon Weill, Ash Sankey, Charlie Crease, Martin Lama, Kent Patterson and Neil Montieth. Specified where clear. |
V4
Ripcord
Start matched on the big arete left of Shots. Span out right to a break on the face, match with difficulty then move up and right to a better break. Finish up and easily via the arete. |
V4
★ Shots
Stand-start about 5m left of The Garden and climb the "shot-marks" to the right-trending flake line. Eases at the top. |
V4
Purple Reign
Stand-start with right hand on the obvious sidepull - stack pads if you need to. Climb up direct. EDIT - Pete Reynolds: this would require many pads stacked! |
V8
★★ The Garden
From a sit-start, climb the blunt arete left of The Groove on its lefthand side by way of a big move with the left hand to the scoop, and then topping out. A stand-start is possible but considerably easier. |
V3
★★ Landranger
Stand-start and climb the arete of The Garden directly without using the scoop of the former route. Hard move and stretch to a righthand side pull at the top. |
V4
Threading the needle
Wall that weaves between The Garden and The Groove. Stand-start. |
V3
★ The Groove
Ascend the groove exiting left from a stand-start |
V5
★ The Other Groove
From a stand-start ascend the groove exiting to the right by gaining the crucial crimp with the left hand. |
V4
★ Blue Blood Moon
Stand-start and climb the overhanging prow just up the hill from The Garden. Mantle finish. Revision: sit-start at this grade - easier from the stand. |
V5
★ Arnold Sane
Climb the arete from a stand-start moving rightwards to finish. |
V1
★ Rippled slab 1
Direct up the slab about 2m right of Arbold Sane - through a tiny overlap. |
V1
★ Rippled slab 2
At the far right of the slab take a direct line but move leftwards to finish below the high-point of the wall. |
V2
★ Rippled slab 3
Takes the far right line proper - finishing at the high point of the wall |
V1
★ Step left
Stand-start |
V1
★ Step right
Stand-start |
V4
First Visit
Climb the arete to an easing finish. |
V0-
Needles
Climbs the slabby arete right of First Visit. |
V4
★ Beetle
Thin climb |
V4
★★ Beetle Crack
Up thin crack and wall |
V3
Hypnotized
On block abutting Embers. Sit-start with feet on adjacent boulder and go up sharp, friable arête. |
V11
★★ Embers
The ten-year project finally goes down! Embers takes the obvious hanging arete from a stand-start. Left hand on the arete with a crystal thumb catch and right hand on the undercling. A powerful move on poor feet allows you to gain the small crimp. From here another hard move gets you established on easier ground. Continue up the right side of the arete all the way (don't rock around onto the left slab). |
V8
★★ Cassini
This problem is the top half of Embers and is clearly superseded by the full problem. Stack the pads massively to reach the small crimp on the right-hand side of the arete. Using this and the arete, pull off the pads powerfully. When established, slap for the better hold on the arete with your left. Finish more easily but stick to the right side of the arete. |
V3
Three Little Kittens
Climb the right arete. |
V1
One-Two-Three
Climb the left arete. |
V0
★ Jam crack
Trad crack |
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