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North Peak Guide

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 26
  • Aka: North Pinnacle

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Terry Svingen Luen Warneke Joshua G. Average Climber MisterS Steven Smith Adrian Woodcraft

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. North Peak 3 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Alpine climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -28.274532, 152.701181

description

A humble peak with a distinct steep head-wall on its Eastern aspect. Potential for long new routes for the adventurous.

approach

The East Face of North Peak is best accessed by following Rocky Creek and cutting right off of the track to reach the base of the face.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 North Ridge 2 Alpine 650m
2 Rocky Gully / Rocky Creek 2 Alpine 500m
3 East Face of North Peak

The line of least resistance up the East Face of North Peak. A pleasant adventure climb with delicate slabs, decent protection, and runouts typical of SEQ adventure climbing. It is contrived to finish up the last pitch, and the natural top-out is to scramble right off of the major platform below the summit head-wall. This route would be a good introduction to Mt Barney adventure climbing if the last pitch is avoided.

Start at the obvious flat belay area below a wide corner system reached by hiking up Rocky Creek, following your nose and bush-bashing right off the track and towards the face when it feels right to do so. May take a bit of an explore.

  1. 70m (12) - Climb the face left of the wide, scrubby corner, passing intermittent diagonal seams to reach the obvious R-facing corner crack. Follow this corner to its end, on top of which is a comfortable grassy ledge with a shrub belay. Long pitch.

  2. 70m (13) - Climb directly up off the belay up some slabby moves with dicey protection. Continue up the slab, veering right towards the weakness in the centre of the looming head-wall above. Either small shrub belay or there is gear to be found.

Either scramble R off the large ledge to the shoulder of North Peak or:

  1. 30m (17) - Continue up the weakness that divides the summit head-wall. Climb the short corner crack through tough moves to a grassy ledge. Continue leftwards and up the next corner with Committing moves through the dirty corner. Good training for East Peak's East Face. Natural belay above.

FFA: Alex Mougenot & Joshua G., 26 Jun 2018

17 Trad 170m, 3

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
2 North Ridge Alpine 650m
Rocky Gully Alpine 500m
17 East Face of North Peak Trad 170m, 3
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