Routes in South West Slopes

Sit start. Hard compression moves and heel hooking from there

Sit Start bottom right of boulder, with hands matched on jug. Traverse left to the hueco bottom middle of the boulder, from there big move to gain the left arete and top out at the highest point of the boulder.

Same start as for " ". But head right to the arete. Climb around the arete and top out just to the right of the arete.

Sit start with hands matched on lower shelf at back left of the boulder. Climb along the edge of the prow using holds in the roof and on the prow/face. top out at the point of the prow.

Stand start with right hand in good pocket in the roof and left hand in the sloper hueco on the face (shorter folk may have to jump to the left hand). continue along the edge of the roof/prow to top out at the point of the boulder as for panther sit.

Really good line up the steep face of the largest boulder on the side facing the car park. Sit start at left of large flake (say hello to the resident lizard). Rock up to a poor crimp then a good left crimp (pull down, not out!). Slopers on the lip then jugs to mantle.

Tim Nicholson

Start as for Panther sit, hands matched on the lower shelf at the back left of the boulder, do the first half of Panther sit but exit straight up after gaining the sloper hueco on the face halfway along the boulder. avoids the somewhat highball exit of Panther.

A nice exposed journey up the slabby arete.

On the right side of the boulder. start hanging from the lower shelf on good edge. campus 90cm up to the horn above and top out the boulder

Climb the obvious highball on some of the best rock in the area. Top out.

Climb up the jugs

Climb up the crack

About 50 R of the waterfall is a L leading line leading up into the gully. Up this and then try working out a way of getting down - not classic and the same tells a story.

A fantastic outing up some great quality granite with something for everyone. Increases in difficulty as you go higher, and its possible to enjoy an easier day by abseiling off when it gets too hard. All belay stations are DBB with rap rings. Pitch 4 has 11 bolts (the most), so you'll need at least that many draws. Take a few cams (small to medium) to supplement bolts on the 3rd and 4th pitches. Starts at a prominent black streak where the walking track hits the cliff, ~ 15 m left of the waterfall. After heavy rain, the first 3 pitches turn into a waterfall, leaving the rock beautifully polished as a result!

1. 25m (12). Cruise up the black streak to a comfy belay ledge.

2. 20m (15). Follow a series of flakes to the crux move to reach the next ledge. There is often a decent sized puddle underneath the DBB - this pitch can easily be linked into P3 to avoid hanging out in it if you use a few extenders.

3. 20m (16). Move up and right on the large flake, before technical and tricky moves back left to follow the main crack line to the ledge. A medium cam or two can be used in this crack to supplement the two bolts, but are not necessary for safety. There is a variation approximately 5 m left of the start (separate DBB and first bolt) that may not have been finished?

4. 40m (19). Climb the spine and corner off the left side of the belay ledge before stepping right up the flake and corner. The crux bulge here can be backed up with a cam/medium nut (advised). Continue up the ramp and follow the bolts up a seam and slab to a big ledge.

5. 20m (20). Step up and right around the base of the steep prow onto the slab. Traverse diagonally right and then follow the flakes and cracks up the wall to the top.

Approximately 50 metres beyond, and level with the beginning of 'The Garden' climb. (Just past the gully that gives access to the top of the cliffs)

No Time for Dreaming pitch 4 variation. From belay ledge, climb right following bolts through under cling, up onto slab, into finger crack (small cams), then continue up slab to anchors as for NTFD. Can stay wet when the rest of the route is dry.

Start on jug of BiB, traverse across, up, then powerfully down to finish up right arete.

Easy up face

Easy up slabby jagged crack

Low sit start on right arete using tiny sidepull. Up, slightly left, and up.

Start with good hands on slab left of Rabbit, Run, easily up.

Start on low decent holds with careful spotting, feet out left. Up powerfully left to crack or sloper, then position yourself to escape up and right following sidepull crack. Great moves! Maybe V2?

Up short but interesting corner.

Sit start with both hands in low finger crack - bust a move then cruise to the top.

Lay back the crack from a sitstart. Top out

Sit Start matched in the obvious hueco. Big throw up and right, then traverse the lip left topping out at the highest point of the prow.

Sit start. Hard compression moves and heel hooking from there

Sit start with hands matched on obvious good edge. Straight up from there with good feet Tiny crimps