Routes in Central Tablelands

Climb the slab. The chipped start holds are not needed.

Starts up Mousie Maze, breaks left once the angle starts to kick back

Juggy black wall

Starts on big holds at left, with strange feet. Two moves and its over, nice practice for moving the core around with your foot placements.

start on slab above the steps and awkwardly over bulge and onto arete at the very right end of the wall. nice position

Hardish, give yourself 26 for the direct finish

Sit start and then right around prow finishing at obvious hold on right-hand wall

traverse out to the middle of the boulder and layaway up the slab with increasing commitment - possibly soft - but not one to fall off of.

A bit ...a lot of 'Madness' through a roof. Apparently the finger lock won't be necessary!

Rock face towards the road. Right side vague crack. Top out.

Low-angled corner with plenty of placements, and more to be cleaned. Burnt tree anchors above wall of burnt scree. FA please name and claim.

From right of slab, head to slot crimp, left yellowish rail, if previous 2 break - go higher, then across, then jug finish of RC.

Through the bouldery start of Captain Kurko to the 5th bolt, then head Up and slightly left to join the upper half of Chocolate Trouble Cake.

Still has a tag as at March 2022. Can seep.

Start match on the undercling up via slopes and crimps to the camps ledge then big moves to high jug pocket.

Phillip Booth

An old-school, bowel-loosening journey across one of the most exposed bits of rock in the Blueys. Mostly trad, but with just enough bolts to keep it ever-so-slightly on the right side of insanity. Mostly great rock, and wild moves (pitches 2 and 3 will blow your mind!).

Bring double cams #0.5 to #3, with singles of #0.3, #0.4, #4 and #5, and all the usual paraphernalia necessary for a RADventure.

Ascensionists must be comfortable climbing well above gear on easier terrain. The cruxes can be aided past -with some craftiness- but the traversing (and very steep) nature of the route means both leader and second must be capable of ascending the rope in the event of a fall.

The route starts from the ledge belay below Echo Crack P3 (the crux pitch). Access by either climbing P1 and P2 of Echo Crack. Or, better yet, walk to the top of Echo Crack from Echo Point, and abseil 80m down the top 2 pitches of that route (some trickery needed to avoid getting stuck in space).

If you need to bail, you can either rap right down Echo Crack to the ground with 2 x 60m ropes and walk back up the giant staircase. Or, if you've accessed this route from above, and managed to keep the tail of the rap line in place (eg. threading it through the belay bolts below echo crack) you can reverse the climb and jumaar back up it.

1. 10m (21) From the belay right of echo crack, traverse left (#1 cam in start of echo crack) past bolt, then up overhanging prow with #0.75, #3, and #4 to Bolt and #0.75 Belay.

2. 20m (24) Traverse left and up to gain main traverse line (#2). Traverse straight left past #3, and on to bolt. Crux follows, then crucial #2 (to protect second), and onwards past #4 and #3. A short runout section of traversing takes you to just below the anchors (#5 recommended), then final thin moves to 2 bolt belay.

3. 35m (25 to 26) Up and left to bolt, then straight traverse left past #3 and #1. Ignore bolt further left (it's for the neighbouring route), and instead make your way upwards with tricky face moves on much steepness past 3 bolts. At the 3rd bolt, traverse left to difficult moves (crux) to gain arete and move upwards to jug-hole on left side of arete. Chill in the big cave, then truck right and up bouldery steepness past 2 bolts. After 2nd bolt, traverse left to gain hanging grey arete, with sustained, technical moves past #0.75, #1, #3, and #0.5 to gain 2 bolt belay. Breathe an epic sigh of relief.

4. 35m (21) Crux off belay past 3 bolts, then quest upwards, trending right to arete where rock and gear are better. Eventually meander back to left-facing flake (crucial #3 !!), and up to bolt. Thin moves out left, then up past crucial #0.75 to belay in cave. For this pitch, bring a single rack #0.3 to #4, with doubles of #0.5, #0.75 and #3.

From here, bush-bash left up gully to regain the Echo Crack exit track.

Head left after first ring

(Training DBB below).

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1x #0.4 (x2 if linking P1 and P2), #0.75, #1, #4.

1. 30m (27) - 7 Bolts and a #0.4 Cam (to protect the final move to the anchor).

2. 20m (24) - 2 Bolts, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.75 and #1 Cam to anchor.

3. 25m (21) - 5 Bolts to anchor.

Left hand route on the Kid's Slab just right of the arete.

2m R again at the closed flake above R end of boulders. 2 pitches?!

Awkward sit start on the arete side pulls, throw a hand up to a comfortable crimp and link with Ducky Junior, because family stays together

Start as for Lord Elphinstone but then head diagonally across the wall to the right. 70m rope is NOT enough to lower off the anchor, but should be ok from last bolt.

Start as for Dumbo Love then left over top of scoop. Punchy crux then nice low angle climbing to the top. Crux punch may be morpho, 5'8" and under it could be very hard. 6ft it's hard. 6'3" could be easy. Hard to grade. 29-31?

Start 2 hands whiterock and go straight up

Climb corner 2m right of Mr. Big, traverse to Mr. Big P1 belay. Continue up right from belay to Mr. Big P2 belay

Sloper Start left or right side with hands on top. Traverse to opposing side. i finish by topping out at end

Chimney up the two walls top out either side

Boulder is located on the right side of waratah cave. Start on 45 rail and up into amazing undercling then to a hole through the rock. mantle up and over the top. Awesome features not so awesome rock quality

Hard start then a couple of tricky moves split by good jugs.

Starts up In Harm's Way for one pitch. Nice trad line wandering rightwards across the middle of the large orange wall. Set of wires, set of cams #00 to #5 wild country, double up on #00 to #1.5 extender draws handy.

Climb out of the water about 4-5m left of the rooflet and head straight up with some reachy moves to follow.

Long Traverse entire wall right to left starting right of fitzswingin

Abandoned project.

Start: 2m right of Stinkeye at the tree.

4 metres left of Dragon's Tooth. Rings on left side of central wall of the square cut recess.

Up obvious features to juggy headwall

Long corner to the main (lookout) butress up overhanging nose on big jugs

Start as for Age of Rubber. Follow till bolts but ignore them, if possible, heading right to gear at third bolt and finishing up DF. Possible to use a high gear placement on Age of Reason to avoid runout. Cams, wires, RPs and optional sling.

Left of Hitlistless. Boulder to fused corner. Good!!

Left hand route off the ledge.

Starts behind Mirrorball Pinnacle. 4 pitches. Bolts and gear. Old fashioned 14, may be 17 for sport climbers.

1. 40m (14) Up rad chimney passing four bolts and good cams on both walls (hint, turn around) to bolt belay on the far side of obvious ledge.

2. 20m (14) Bridge up through minor choss passing one or two bolts to funky overhanging corner. Climb through this and belay at bolts atop the Mirrorball pinnacle.

3. 35m (10) Easy right-hand traverse passing the odd bolt and bit of gear to belay on two rings.

4. 15m Up whichever way looks nicest.

Right line on black face. Climbs up jugs all the way to shared anchor.

Layback start and through scoop

As for CaS to break, right and up past bolts. Finish as for CaS.

Rings 3m right of Family Jewels. Shares a few holds on Crystalis then heads diagonally left to from last bolt to shared anchor with The Family Jewels.

Just a linkup, but it gives you a taste of this stunning wall at a fairly tame grade, via a surprisingly obvious link of the 3 routes.

Abseil access as for Disco Non-Stop Party (via direct start on arete). Up arete past 4 bolts, then rising traverse right into The Obvious Elbow for 3 bolts, continuing rightward (past no-hands stance) to join I Have a Dream. Follow I Have a Dream up past 5 bolts and optional #0.3 cam (recommended) to top-out.

Kind of an obvious linkup with some bolts that are otherwise undescribed. Up arete as for Autophagocytosis, but where it goes L via ridiculous reach, go straight up wall to Frontiers (middle) anchors.

Start up DOG, but step right to ledge on BV. Up weakness, and up tending left past black carot bolts ~2-3 m R of BV.

Up orange face through a bit of steepness and right to shared anchors.

Start 30m right of a corner at a scrubby slab

P1: 30m - up 3m onto ledge, traverse right and up, left to a dead tree and belay

P2: 30m - up left, then up to belay just right of the scrubby corner

P3: 16m - Continue up

Chimney

High problem topping out through a hand crack. Scary top out on good holds! Top notch effort to CamDunning on 21 Dec 2010.

Exceptional chimney with good gear. Approach pitch is rather ordinary but you soon forget about it when starting bridging this old school style classic. Fantastic climb. Name, FA and grade unknown and temporary ones have been given. Approach from top using trees and 80m static rope.

Obvious 'V' leftward arching chimney, between AC and KC. Immediately behind belay tree for SMU. A good route. Straight up, you can belay at BR, or climb on up left crack.

Nice smooth rock and funky pockets doesn't last long. Onto rough overhanging jugfest.

Up short gray face on some biggish moves to anchors

Megan has sent this after a long term siege. 27/28? Still waiting for the name and grade.

Tackles the obvious prow near the centre of the wall, then through the roof and finish along left at the lip. Has an fun final move.