Routes in Central Tablelands

Hardish start (without use of tree). Tricky mantle at half height.

Left hand end of north facing wall before cliff turns east facing. Undercut start with 4 FHs. This climb seems badly affected by 2016 fires with much exfoliation and very blackened FHs

Alternate second pitch for SR,

P2 - as for SR to flake and cave, up and L

The line up the obvious corner system. First pitch has been freed, two to go.

Make a trad belay in shallow slot under the route. Up to FH below juggy ledges. Clip and crank up and right on jugs to shallow overlay corner. Straight up to ledge and traverse right to rap rings. Rope drag is a problem.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Jude Food'.

Traverse left and up to rail from pimp holds.

A new Grkovic master piece of glue and pins to create a steep and bouldery direct start to Suction pump. A sling on the second bolt helpful.

Hard start to overhung arete - pull around this onto bright orange headwall.

Clamber to ledge via rungs and rope. Route starts off log and was done WITHOUT bridging into the corner.

Great 24 to ledge, then the L-facing little corner above, all the way to the highest roof. Pumpy as!

Up crack topping out into groove

Hard start then pumpy, rising right traverse. Given that half the route is a 3 star classic and the bottom half isnt half bad (with the exception of putting 5th draw on) , it deserves attention. Sliding the first two draws in the roof down to your belayer as you pass them will illiminate rope drag issues later on.

Info lacking on this. Roof crack down low that quickly finishes on ledge.

Start up Grape Hour into the finish of Grey Power. You move R just before the 3rd bolt of GH. Good luck at saying all these route names and not getting confused!

Ringbolted wall left of 100ft Slab corner. Looks reasonably hard at one point - mid 20s? Anyone have further info?

Bolted line right of Sacred Ground done as one epic long pitch. Slab up the bowl to start (scary to first bolt) then launch up juggy wall, trend left across overhung "cave" and up face above.

Step into under of overlap trending slightly left and over

Start just left of tree, or right at chipped J.

Up the overhang, optionally sling tree, clip the fixed hanger, then a short crank to glory and stainless carrot security. Walk off to right.

Route bolter, please claim and name.

Potentially quite dangerous. Start at the splitting crack to the right of the big corner under the obvious roof. Up this to tree, better than it looks. Into corner system on left and up through limestone-esque cave features to horrifying shield. Gingerly commit to shield then awkward moves into chimney and up to bolted anchor. It would not be pretty if this shield dislodged with belayer below. There is a pitch (open project) above this that looks quite good, although it was too wet to climb it on our visit. Previous high point (just below shield) set by Brad Carmady.

Starts from the BR on Annelid Crack Pitch 2 (about half way up Pitch 2) A good alternative to AC. Left to old BR, up thin corner to bulge, to tree belay.

5m right of Unknown3. Rusty old dogger bolts with faded '90s Mamba quickdraws just right of major corner feature.

Start as for the doctor, instead of doing the big move on the nurse, continue low for a couple more compression moves until you're at the slopey jug of Go Go Gadget then finish up Oxycel

Phillip Booth

Faintly marked CB.

Same start as Necrosis then hard move into The Nurse to finish at the jug rail.

Phillip Booth

The easiest warm-up here abouts, and the third most popular route in all of NSW. Considered solid at the grade.

The original version, batman or pull draws to start at the big hole at 4th RB.

An easy corner on which to practise trad. Stem or thrutch up to tree belay.

Start about 5m L of JA, just R of the hanging prow. Stick clip very high first bolt above the vegetation, and batman. You actually get a grade for the batman! Excellent - after the mantle! Soft as soft comes.

"Dangle pigs". Australia's 2nd 35. Formerly a Lee Cossey project, generously gifted to Alex to keep him occupied. Starts just shy of the wall splitting arete 15m right of Ristretto. Tends rightward to breach the main roof close to its right hand end, and up wall above.

Start on big jug and traverse left to scoop.

Start on big jug and traverse right and finish on the arete

Thin start to techy face tending right to shared anchors.

Start matched on rail. Up to good sidepull using your choice of broken footholds. Throw to left sloper then a straightforward topout.

Start 2m left of TW.

Line of rings furthest R. A great route with no particular crux, up to chain lower offs.

How you feel after inputting the data into the online guide.

The main and best warm up at the crag. Some of the best rock at main wall, guaranteed to raise a solid pump. It's supposed to start up the blunt arête but most people stay a bit left on the juggy flake of Desafinado.

The left glue in carrot route to the chain. Details unknown? The hardest route at the crag, sequenced moves see you past the lower crux if you move your feet.

On the rounded nose left of 'Pump up the jam'. Get past the cave by propping up off boulder.

A good juggy warm up arete. A couple of tricky moves here and there but good value.

This is a great climb, definitely worth it. Solid for the grade.

3 interesting sections with full rests between

Obvious crack line angling into Catastrophe Corner, then taking right hand exit at top.

After trying the direct start at small roof, try increasing further left, but no further then the tree, until you can get established on wall. Either head up slightly to gear or traverse into line and some gear. Follow crack, a bit of gear to stonking Medium cams then slight runout up to ramp and gear. Join CC at the top but continue up and right to exit.

Wires and cams. Tree belay over the top.

Balance wall-climbing with good rock but poor protection.

Start: Right arete of Easy Gully (5m left of Virgo).

1. 27m (crux) Up arete for 8m then right to nose and up slab trending right to ledge below corner in overhang and piton belay.

2. 12m Up corner to ledge, trend left and up overhang to top and bollard belay.

A good wall and rib. This climb celebrates Harry’s 80th birthday and over 50 years of climbing. Start: 3 metres right of H. Up wall with 3 BR and cams if you desire. Up to DFLO at ledge.

optional cams

A mixed route with bolted belays. All bolts are glue in FH's , ringbolts or Ubolts. No boltplates necessary.

Bring standard single rack including micro cams and DOUBLE #4 AND #5 CAMALOTS!!

First pitch is concealed by left arete of Redbelly Wall. Although the climb is 15m left of Redbelly , the small shute between them is loose. Approach by walking along small undercut ledge behind the detached block that forms the base of Redbelly. This brings you to base of wide corner and ringbolt. Stickclip the bolt as getting of the ground is tough.

1. 25m (18) Up awkwardly for a few meters then up passing three RBs to a DRB. A few #5 cams are handy both at the start and end of this route.

2. 15m (18) Ooze up, plug a #5 in and head out to arete passing a few bolts and a hidden hold. Tentatively place a few cams in break and carry on up arete jugs past a few more bolts to an arete slapping move. Belay on large comfortable ledge.

3. 20m (20) Re-establish belay at bolts 5m left under face. Up past small cam and wire then a few bolts. Pop a med cam in break then head right to a good handjam reach. Clip ubolt then froth on the crux of the whole route. Carry on over top and up to base of next obvious corner.

4. 20m (16) Plug in a big cam then up the corner. Stem left below first FH and continue through steep corner. Extend your last peice in crack and possibly place tiny cam on face on left before stepping left 2m on face to avoid dirty loose finish. 2xFH belay on edge above nice pedestal.

Stay roped up for loose edge and belay from cam, tree, or threads above on track.

The aid (originally a few bolts) at the start of the second pitch was freed by Joe Friend. Start 33m right of PV at obvious right trending wide yellow crack/corner system. Marked with J.

1. 30m (18) Stem up featured corner system that funnels into a chimney near the top. Traverse right 4m to semi-hanging belay off rap chains. Lots of long slings useful on this pitch.

2. 30m (22) Burly, slick and spectacular. The right trending wide crack breaching the upper headwall. Belay at top off trad and pretty awful tree belay.

Reportedly you can rap from here to ground with 50m rope, however as of oct 2021, tree did not appear suitable for abseil.

1. 30m Easy grey slab to top.

Open

8m to the right of Its Finger Likn Good. Starts in the cave area as well.

Scramble up right near the Isis mark past 5m of horrid vegetation, or better still send up a willing assistant, to the pleasant starting ledge -33.64125, 150.25595.

Start marked HWS / AMB below SS FH.

Climb may trend right up somewhat vegetated wide corner.

Two brilliant pitches. On the face around the corner (to the right, looking at the cliff) of The Colours of Spring. Locate the carrot bolt on the arete of P1 before starting up.

Cams BD #0.3 - BD #4, full rack of wires + RPs.

P1 - Up face to ledge stance. Big gear (#4 BD) high in the flake on the right. Traverse to the arete (#2 BD), then up the arete past a carrot bolt and onto the slab.

P2 - Climb the sustained stemming corner to its conclusion past 3 carrot bolts with mixed fiddly gear to keep it sane. Crucial small wire in the flake before the 3rd bolt. At the top, belay off two carrots below Pitch 3 of The Colours of Spring, but consider extending your belay to the edge to avoid dropping rocks on your second.

NOTE: At the moment there are NO rings to rap off from the top of Pitch 2. Be prepared to leave behind a prussic (slinging the carrots) and carabiner to rap 55m to the ground, IN CASE the in situ rap gear is gone.

Short low-angled wide corner/gully providing potential access to top of cliff. Not really a descent route.

Straight up wall (8 carrots and a couple of small to medium cams). Stop at chains at 30m and lower back to the deck.

Cross the creek at lower level. DRB at the top. This and the next route have a lower off at the top.

Start: Step over creek and up crack/boulder feature then up the face above to the lower off.

Hard start.

Start: Under the bulges

Cruxy to gain the roof. Then heel hooking heaven.

A tad scary

Flakes and smears to mantle top out

There's a few different ways to go. Good warm up... Starts in the corner next to tree, then up and slightly left, shares anchor with Banana Man. For Safety, clip the 4th bolt from high jug before traversing left

1m right again. The first bolt has gone walkabout.

The line of ring bolts in between St. Andrews Cross and Melancholic that heads up and diagonally right through many ticked and bad looking holds. Might be a project?

Classic! Rebolted with RB's 2017. Bring a medium wire if you want to stitch the last few meters. Creative slabbing start veering right , through crux at bulge then easy into corner and DRB lower-off.

Big move off undercling down low and huck to monster jug rail. Past hole to right side of rooflet. Up on edges to ledge and final wall to top out. Dynamic climbing. 9 bolts to lower off.

Short face to slab and corner, left to anchors

Short corner left end of black slab.

1. 25m corner to overhang, left to BR and up to DBB.

2. 20m up to rap point.

Start as per Milo but continue up to the tree and onto the face behind it.

Just right of tree on ledge, up hard face onto slab to anchors

Start on Like'n Lichen and traverse obvious high sloper line out to the right. Tops out at good rail. Continuation out right is still un'scent.

30m from the carpark - arete on the right wall, tending right to a vegetated ledge

8m right of BR, up crack to ledge then up the shallow corner. Originally done in two pitches

http://sydneyclimbing.com/Mt+Banks.html

Fine sustained wall climbing in the middle of the wall. Climbs much better than it looks. Link the two pitches together for a big sport route.

1. 20m (21) Carrots, then a couple of rings, then 7+ glue-in carrots to small ledge and rap anchor. Quite thin in places. Lower-off, or...

2. 12m (21) Continue up steeper wall above on pumpy little flats. It's exactly 30m to the ground from the top anchors.