Routes in Central Tablelands

Up face and crack

The namesake powerful start then leading left after fourth bolt easily enough to top. Stickclip first bolt , not permadraw. Hard for 25.

Find the glued on hold next to campus top out and follow chalk to the top.

Up middle of grey wall to shared anchors

Tucker Time is sooooo rad. A technical boulder problem on the face down low leads to a massive rest you can bury bodies in, then truckin' on upward is another little punch followed by the crux of Super Duper Goo and finish with the best roof climbing known to man. Skip the last two bolts in the roof, get a little slack and take the cleanest 20m fall you've ever had.

Tucker Time.

Up blunt slabby faint arete right of ramp

Furthest right looking at the wall. Well bolted rings. Wierd end if you go straight up, death by tree. Nice extension that goes the length of the cave along a high break.

Choice of two finishes

Nice boulder that sit-starts on face and heads towards arete to top-out

A lot of jiggery pockery for one pitch! This section of rock can been seen while spending a lot of time belaying beginners up 'Sweet Dreams'. It was put up for reasons of scratching an itch rather then getting from the bottom to the top. Using double ropes rap in from 2 ring bolts at the top of the of the Sweet Dream 17 'Variant Finish' to the end of the traverse pitch belay anchor. Rap down again over to the right to a 3 U bolt semi hanging belay.

Climb right into the corner aiming for some fixed hangers (placed for some other climb going up the corner) As you climb in the corner you need to unclip some draws behind you so as to reduce rope drag. From the fixed hangers follow U bolts out around the corner out the exposed orange face across to the right hand side out the head wall up to the ledge where there is a double U bolt belay. It doesn't go anywhere from here as the rock looks dubious. Back jump to clean or bring up seconder then rap off left to Sweet Dream's terror traverse. Then climb up 'Sweet Dreams'.

Independent line starting a few metres right of Rhythm Method.

The short steep v5 on the far right of the amphitheatre.

Hard start and finish, just left of grey streak.

Start at the back of the cave, follow the flake feature through the roof, then head right after turning the lip and finish matched on jug ledge same as 'Oxycel'.

Phillip Booth

Start 2 m right of Orange Crush, traverse left past a thin reachy move to finish up Thin Times.

Stand start L 45 side pull R the good edge just above it. Up

Right of Lazy Lizards

Significantly harder than its righthand neighbour.

As for Gaze a Gazely Stare to the #3 Cam slot above its 3rd bolt, then take the lefthand line.

Gaze, then: Bolt, Bolt, Bolt, #0.3, Bolt, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.3, #1, #0.3, #.75, Bolt, #1.

Same as for STR, but start in the wider crack/chicken head.

Starts a few meters right of Beta Vinyl and goes up somewhere! This is the one with several fixed biners in the first 15m.

Directly around corner from boulder cave (in direction of Sunbath), or reach top by walking over cave and facing across valley. Surely would have been climbed previously, considering location. Lower finger crack a one or two move wonder comparable to Hope (Piddington) but softer rock. Can build a decent anchor above the lower crack. Followed by unprotected slab and poorly protected face

A set of anchors tucked out of the way to teach cleaning.

Slab (Can be done as multi pitch).

Needs lots of cleaning before FA is possible.

Sit start on two crimps and up to jugs. Top out in sandy cave

Start on jug up crimps and topout. Landing is a little dodgy so be careful. Off width is out

Mystery ringbolted face climb in middle of wall. Starts from hanging belay on lip of roof, about 4m right of FoS. Rap in via chain visible on cliff-top.

First route on cliff - physically and spiritually. Up, right, and up.

Start as for Super Weak to the horizontal break then thin moves to decent rest, big moves on big holds to finish. A touch easier than the original but you still have to do its crux traverse.

Tricky off the deck to a good rest then interesting and sustained upper wall. Quite a unique route for this area.

First pitch climbs up and traverses right (19) to the base of the crack (21).

Hard start on "jugs" then great long wall above, reportedly very good.

Start 15m right of TV.

10m Crack to ledge then link up with Blasphemy.

a bad slab problem

Juggy slightly step face to anchors at ledge.

Sit start Arete

Varied crack, face and bulges. Start: Straight up slightly left off the angophora up into the corner crack, continue up through cave/ ledge and traverse right along shelf to finish as for D. Locate FH for belay backed onto DRBB. Take Cams, slings and wires of all sizes. Ben Sanford, Bradley Cameron, Bruce Cameron. 14.4.15

The warm up route. Shorter line of bolts, 8m right of the arete, facing in. DRBB at top.

North end of the mini cliff, slight over hang down low and with the crux establishing feet above that.

10m right of Trouble and shares the top anchors with Double and Trouble. Nice traverse.

(FA Trad)

Start: Marked SS/H/J, same as Sargasso Sea, or from the right end of the shale ledge at obvious cracks that head out to the right of the end of the roof above.

1. Step left onto obvious arête and follow it to a good ledge shared by Sargasso Sea, Jericho and El Desperado. Top run out, take a range of cams to reinforce the belay.

Sit start on right side of crack. Head right and top out on slopers.

No info known about this route as it is not listed in print guides.

The first line of ring bolts right of the Voice of America shared start.

Finger crack in corner 10m R of SRS.

1. 23m (17)

2. 27m (?)

Has been climbed on toprope without topout.

Half equipped steep arete just right of Living in the Outside. Random carrots, rings and bolt scars. Has been a project for decades.

An awesome link-up featuring the easier halves of two pit 30's. Start up Circling Vultures for the mega dyno then after a brief rest step left into the top headwall crux of North by Northwest. The inverse linkup, connecting the brutal crux of North by Northwest into the less brutal crux of Circling Vultures, is an open project dubbed "Mt Druitt" (a "western circle" reference).

Start on shelf and press up using pocket

Slab walk up.

The right route on main orange wall, 3m R of VW, Up slab to first BR, Up through scoops to pass roof and up to tree belay

10m right of Aplomb, chimney

Mostly trad with four ring bolts. "If you fall off the top you may strip all the gear".

Starts just left of blunt arete below the vague headwall flake/crack. You should be able to see an old biner on the second bolt. Climb 30m or so of moderate, very runout, weird, grit stone slabbing past two bolts and some very questionable trad to a small stance. From here boulder past two more bolts and steel yourself for the final run up the incipient flake feature on some average gear. Finishes at DBB above little roof, either rap 60m back to the ground or scramble off right.

You can access the top of this route for pre-inspection (recommended) by walking to the commercial abseiling spot with rungs and 10000 sets of anchors and setting up on the left most ones (looking in). Run the rope through the buses to the climbers left of the main abseil route and you should be able to abseil diagonally left to find the bolts at the top.

The right arete of the wall starting 2m right of Old Salt. Was originally climbed starting at Old Salt and traversing right across the wall (by Tim Davenport circa 2000). The direct start up the arete was added in 2017.

Much better alternative to Proteus. Up the striking and for the most part good quality corner at about half height of the cliff. This one great pitch probably isn't enough to redeem the rest of the zero star bush rambling.

1. (30m) Start at the base of the slight amphitheatre with some tricky vegetated ledges

2. (40m) Scramble though 30m of bushes and climb the small buttress of rock to gain base of obvious crack system.

3. (35m - Crux) Climb the obvious corner crack at about grade 16 to good belay ledge.

4. (20m + 10m scramble) easy rambling up vegetated corner.

5. (40m) Starting at the most inside section of the amphitheatre climb the obvious chossy crack until blocked by orange roofs. Traverse right with no pro for 25m and up 5m to 2 carrot belay.

6. (40m) Ramble up and right with minimal pro to gain top out. Very exposed on terrible ironstone edges.

Tom O’Halloran

The first route to be bolted on this section of wall. Heads left after the 4th bolt and then up to a bouldery crux on the lip of the roof to gain the high corner/arete.

Left most thin face to anchors

Straight up middle of boulder

Steep thin piton corner/crack through roof to hard crux through steep wall with possible serious fall. Drop test from crux lands at ~ 2m.

Start: Right side of TM Cave - initialled.

The right-hand face of boulder - requires a pad to avoid a nasty rock or a plonk in the drink - stabbing high step to snatchy layaway mantle and then straight up Matterhorn feature - an excellent problem.

Ringbolted route 2m right of Peace Frog. Currently red-tagged.

Classic Blueys steep face climbing in an inspiring location, but with the old-school epic of extremely bold climbing above gear.

Original bolts replaced (like for like) with Glue-in Stainless Carrots in 2016!

Access either by walking to the top of the route from Echo Point and rapping the route (recommended), or by climbing the lower pitches of Echo Crack or Silent Echo to the huge shale-band ledge at half height.

To access from the top, make your way from Echo Point Upper Viewing Platform, down the ramp and head towards the Lower Viewing Platform. 30m after you turn left from the bottom of the ramp (heading towards the lower platform), there is a yellow mark on the fence on your right. Step over this, then down scrub heading vaguely right through bush to rock pagoda. Keep the rock on your right initially as you head down the hill, following a vague weakness and a number of yellow arrows. When the next cliffline appears on your left, hug that and down a number of small shelves to arrive at 2 x carrot + 1 fixed hanger belay directly above Echo Crack.

The top of Alive in a Bitter Sea is at 2 Stainless carrots (and one original Bash-in) atop a series of big teetering blocks, approximately 10m across the wall directly in front of you, at the same height as the Echo Crack top-out.

1. 25m (24 R/X) - Hard moves directly up past 2 carrots (caution getting to 2nd Carrot). Traverse straight right via balancy moves for several metres to flake. Up this with gear, then hard moves up vague corner to placement, and directly right to detached flake, up this to gain "hanging blunt arete". More hard moves up arete past one last carrot bolt to belay on small flake stance (Piton + Bolt + #4/#3.

2. 40m (25 R) - Stupidly hard at the grade. Traverse directly right from the belay for several metres, then diagonally up and right to shale break , then up via 2 carrots of sustained hard climbing up blunt arete to infamous dyno, and more hard arete climbing to belay on small ledge (3 carrots) - Consider shifting the belay further right to be out of the way for the nails at the start of the next pitch).

3. 15m (23 R) - Straight up via utterly desperate thin moves off the belay to a very high carrot (caution getting to this bolt!), more hard moves past gear to another carrot, then easier climbing up (trending vaguely left) past several placements to belay on top of big flake (3 Carrots).

4. 10m (14) - Traverse left along face, then across Echo Crack past 3 carrots and several possible gear placements, up onto belay ledge (2 Carrots, 1 FH).

Walk back up to Echo Point.

Start: Just left of 'Chancellorsville' at bolt ladder leading left.

Link Half Hour Haircut into the reversed traverse. Pumpy start leads to easier finish. Giving this a boulder grade doesn't seem useful, but no harder than V4

The dirty but decent looking crack. It will get better as it cleans up. Take small cams and a vision of what could be.

Face crack right of vegetated corner

Same belay, left route

After the first 2 bolts of 'Demoraliser' there is a bolt to the left which lets you link into 'Equaliser' via some thin 26ish moves. This eliminates the batman, but presents a nasty pendulum fall potential if you blow it getting to the 2nd bolt of Equaliser, and also creates rope drag once you're further up Equaliser, so its not much of an improvement over the batman.

Climb tree to branch below corner, to rest, right to corner, up to ledge, choss corner to roof, right, up crack above roof then right to belay. 2).Up, right through scrub, to ledge, mantle to ledge, left & up to ledge. 3).As for EP.

Start: 18m right of EP.