Routes in Australian Capital Territory for selected grade

The wall on a boulder 10 metres uphill from 'The Demon Explores the Sea'. Up past two bolts, exiting using the crack on the left and up the slab to belay.

Contrived in places and somewhat overtaken by 'Nothing Left', nevertheless a great climb wandering around the water streaks to the left of the 'Prow'. Start 6 metres left of Rubbishman below an easy, scoopy slab.

1. 30m (20) - Up the slab for eight metres to a thin rightwards diagonal, step left and then straight up to the 'Rubbishman' diagonal. Step back right, then up the steep slab past a bolt (clip with wire) to the large ledge. DBB on the right as for 'Place Without a Postcard'.

2. 30m (23) - Back left and up seven metres to a short diagonal for runners (as for 'Rubbishman'). Step left and up the slab to a bolt, then desperately up and right through a bulge to a ledge. Climb over a second bulge, then move right to DBB on the 'Prow'.

3. 30m (22) - Scary. Move back left along the ledge, then up to a bolt at five metres. Straight up the water streak to a jug (level with the tree on the right), then more easily to DBB on a large flat ledge.

4. 20m (18) - Move left along the ledge, then up the slab to the overlap. Pull through this into a short groove, then easily up the mossy rock to a spacious ledge and DBB. Finish as you will.

Step off a boulder just left of 'Hog Wall' proper and clip the first bolt, then up the face and crack past another bolt. Trad belay.

A bolted direct version of 'Anything So Nothing', following the water streak all the way. A few wingers already! Take wires and small camming devices (up to 2.5).

1. 47m (23) - Start as for 'Anything So Nothing'. Up the slab for a few metres to a diagonal crack, over this and follow the 'Rubbishman' diagonal for a few moves. Climb straight up the streak on the wall up to a bolt, right and up past a second, then diagonally up left to a #1 Friend in break (long sling), back right and continue up streak past three bolts to the bulge, straight over this (bolt) to a stance and double bolt belay.

2. 50m (22) Straight up the water streak past five bolts to a flat ledge and rap anchor at 30 metres. Belay here if you want to finish up 'Take It All'. Otherwise trend slightly left up slab (as for the fourth pitch of 'Anything So Nothing' to overlap (#2 friend). Over the overlap at a broken flake and up dirty rock to a large ledge and double bolt belay - a rope stretching 50 metres, if in doubt belay at the ledge.

3. 38m (21) - Off block left of belay and up short cracks into left diagonal. Up wall past bolt and fixed wire to jug and #1 Friend in diagonal overlap. Over this (#2 Friend) and up easing wall and slab to bolt where slab steepens. Left past this to top of pillar and over blocks and ledges to triple bolt belay at back of large ledge.

The gently overhanging off-width on the down hill side of the split boulder.

Another extreme and superb climb. Start at the incipient crack on the steep wall approximately 10 metres left of 'Rubbishman'. Up the crack to a tiny ledge, then slightly right through a slippery bowl (look closely for RP slots). Continue up the wall as for 'Rubbishman', mantle, reachy bolt, then move left around the arete. Trend leftwards up the RP protected slab to double bolt belay as for 'Closer In' P1. Three sets of RPs isn’t overkill.

Cheap, nasty and totally worthless. The seam and crack on the steep side of the passage into the atrium, opposite 'California Dreaming'. Protect with cams in the horizontal break.

Pity it isn't longer. Stolen from Mike Peck. Belay at the comfy ledge and double bolts at the end of 'Extreme Youth' P3a. The climbing starts five metres right of the last pitch of 'Extreme Youth'. Up the crack for two metres, then left and up past about five bolts. Step right around the arete and desperately up the slab past two more bolts.

The off-width right of Ape. See p 196 of ACT Granite.

Impressive. The fine diagonal crackline on the steep concave face, originally climbed mostly with aid. The free version uses the corner on the right.

Start: on the northernmost substantial boulder of the group, facing 'Legoland'.

A very good route, although some of the climb (the second and part of the third pitches) is borrowed from existing routes and there was some dispute as to the style of the first ascent. The orange corner above the slabs (the fourth pitch) is in a superb position. Start seven metres left of 'Closer In' and just left of 'Megajules'.

1. 20m (23) - Boulder up to a bolt, trend right to some jugs, and follow them left to a second bolt. Move directly over a small bulge to a ledge.

2. 35 metres (16) Straight up easier slabs and overlaps to belay at a large scoopy ledge (shared with 'Jubilate' and 'Crimble Cromble').

3. 50m (20) Superb slab climbing. Venture onto the huge upper slab as for third pitch of 'Crimble Cromble', but where that climb exits right, continue up pitch two of 'Closer In'. Belay on the right beneath the overhanging orange corner (originally done without the bolts on 'Closer In'!)

4. 15m (22) - up the orange corner with a difficult exit on the left.

5. 35m (19) - Up the corner, then right to easy ground (shared with 'Closer In').

A superb but voracious hand crack overhanging by about four metres. Start behind the large tree.

A worthless contrived mantle first done with a backrope. Start right of 'Fat Like Me'. Up the slab to a horizontal break, then directly up the wall above with a short slab to finish.

A one move wonder which is quite fun. Start just right of the obvious groove. Cruise up the pocketed wall using wires, to a bulge and a bolt. Boulder past this then up to a flake (2.5 friend) and continue to the top. Thread belay.

Another superb, long and hard slab route. The original first pitch climbed a flake and overlap just left of 'Outer Limit' (now claimed by Bananas in Pyjamas P2), but the route as described is much better. Start above the second bolt of 'Bananas in Pyjamas' (scramble up the bushy gully). This is 10m right and up from 'Vent Crack'.

1. 40m (23) - Up to a ledge, then up the crazed crack/groove to a peg. Continue up through the overlap and the groove above to a second overlap. Traverse rightwards beneath this to a mossy groove, and follow this up (past a bolt on 'Bananas in Pyjamas') to a ledge. Extensive exfoliation in the 2020 fires has made the first 15m (which was already serious) harder, less good, and extremely dangerous.

2. 25m (22) - Frees the old aid section of 'Linear Crack'. Strenuously up the twin flared finger cracks to a tree, then easily to the top of a huge block.

3. 35m (23) - Move leftwards around the arete and continue traversing left beneath the bulge to a peg in the corner. Climb up and over the bulge to a bolt, then straight up the hard slab above.

Doppler shifts when you come screaming off. Start at the thin crack in the wall five metres right of 'The Morrigan'. Climb the crack and chimney until able to pull up left onto a good ledge. Follow the steep slab past three bolts (crux after the second) to a good ledge under the overhang. Scrabble through the cave to finish.

A powerful start. Start three metres left of Three Mules. Crank desperately up the overhang past two bolts (crux) then up past two more bolts. A #3 friend then up the final bulge to a double bolt belay and chains on the left.

One of the best routes at Booroomba, with sustained and scary climbing in a great position. Start as for 'Powder Finger Finish'.

1. 40m (23) For the original route: move up and left to climb the right-hand side of the huge flake (shared with 'Only the Good Die Young'). At the horizontal break undercling out right for four metres. (A direct start was bolted at a later date, but then extensively damaged by the 2020 fire: blast straight up past two bolts to join the original route at the right-hand end of the horizontal break.) Climb the sustained intermittent crack line past two bolts until it blanks out (a #4 Rock protects the crux here). Move right to a line of holds and follow these to the large ledge (DBB).

2. 15m (23) - This pitch tackles the orange wall directly above. Climb a leftward sloping crack into the sentry box in the middle of the face. Up past two bolts, then crank left to a curving flake. Go up this, then out left to a hanging belay in the corner.

3. 35m (22) - Climb up and out right to some wires. Move back, left of the white water streak, to an insecure move to reach a bolt. Hard moves follow for about five metres before the slab gradually eases back. DBB.

A derivative route cooked up by Jamie and Oliver that combines a direct start to A Little Dab'll Do Ya with a continuation up the headwall to the right of Integral (six bolts plus gear).

Start 2m right of Integral. Up past a bolt to join ALDDY at the gear placements right of Integral. Follow ALDDY past another bolt and up the slab above. Follow the line of least resistance and most gear to the right and then back left to the first bolt on the headwall. Up past three more bolts.

First ascent done with supplementary gear in Integral to make it to the headwall - another bolt now removes the need for this.

The headwall can also be climbed independently by starting from the base of Dangermouse and traversing left to the line of bolts.

A pumpy diagonal crack varying from hand to off-width and requiring 10, 13 and 14cm tubes. Start left of 'The Bannister'.

A good, varied climb with a thin crux. Start as for 'Silver City Highway'.

1. 45 metres - Traverse right slightly then straight up past a bolt (crux) to a ledge. Walk left then up the wall past two more bolts to a corner and easy slab. Finish up the wide corner crack and belay below 'Baryon'.

2. 45m (13) - Climb left along the 10cm dyke (RPs / small wires) until you hit the wide 'Lepton' dyke then up easily to top.

Probably the best route of the crag. Start 10 metres downhill and right of 'Planet'. Climb up the groove to a bolt then right and up the arete. Move right to another bolt and then hand traverse right and reach up for a jug. Pull onto the slab and up to the tree belay as for 'Planet'.

The classic of the cliff. Start six metres to the left of the fireplace. Sustained climbing up the fingertip crack which splits the otherwise featureless wall at the left-hand end of the outcrop.

The obvious start to Illusionary lines. Wide fists and laybacks up the corner to to a mantle. Finish up Illusionary Lines.

You could finish up Chopper at around gr20

Follow thin cracks (bomber small wires and .3 cam) to the stance on the arete, then harder past 2 bolts to a big finish.

Two blocks right of High Roller is a good bolted route up the disappearing flake (gear to start).

Start as for Crawlin' King Snake. Traverse right along horizontal break on natural pro and finish up the Disco Cobra slab to top-out. Retro-trad run-out for purists.

Start on the higher part of the ledge about three metres to the right of Burning Yams below an incipient crack. Climb the crack (protection is desperate to place).

Just right of the east-west passageway is a small, thin corner with one bolt (carrot) up high.

Sustained climbing with a great position. Start four metres left of 'Bosch Boys'. Climb up past five bolts until the angle steepens. Move up and traverse left to the arete past two more bolts then step up on a flake to clip the eighth bolt. Downclimb two metres and move left and up the flake on 'Tautology'. Belay on 1.5 and 2 size Friends.

Wall climbing up the prominent and steep water streak five metres left of 'Watermelon in Easter Hay'. Up past two bolts and numerous wire placements, trending slightly left after the second bolt. Belay as for 'Tor'.

Start two metres right of 'Kate's Bush'. Up and right past the first bolt. Cross the face to the crack on the right, then up the slab past the second bolt.

The central off-width.

1. 35m (23).

2. 15m (15) (loose block at top of pitch 2).

The obvious corner crack down and right from 'Milwaulkee Pig Iron' (at the same level and 10 metres left of 'My Generation') - it had repelled a number of attempts over the years. Finish up a slab to a bolt belay.

The short thin crack on a boulder 30 metres below 'My Generation'. Up the awkward thin crack to some hard slabby moves onto a ledge. Move right and up the easy hand crack.

Takes the bulging wall with twin thin cracks to the right of 'Hey Jude', past one bolt to join 'Scarborough Fair'.

Excellent committing climbing. The shallow crack facing the track. Pre-placing a piece or two on rap would make the start saner. Phil called it 'The Jism' on aid; John shocked us all when it was freed.

Superb sustained climbing, every move worthwhile. The obvious orange corner crack to a roof and bolt. Move right then finish back up the slab past one more bolt.

A bold undertaking that was one of the first of the bolted routes at Booroomba. The placing of bolts caused some significant controversy at the time. Start as for Ruffles at the thin crack.

1. 30m - Up the crack to the overlap, then left to a break just before the arete. Up over the bulge, then up the wall past two bolts to another bulge. Move right to belay below the short corner crack.

2. 15m - Up the corner crack to finish.

"Just another classic" - but no stars! Start three metres left of Love Action. Up the wall to a bolt, then layback up the arete.

Start 10 metres left of 'Random Route' on a ledge six metres up. Climb the wall to some wire placements, then awkward moves to the bolt. Pass this with difficult, then up the short diagonal crack.

Start on a bushy ledge five metres right of 'Mirage'. Up a brushed streak with two bolts; take some small wires and RPs.

The thin crack system on the closest side of the eastern boulder.

Another good steep wall. Start five metres left of Static Cling, part-way up Jack's Crack. Place a side runner. Climb up past a bolt to a ledge and up to another bolt, crank past this to a second ledge. Finish up a short corner with a third bolt.

Another outstanding sustained wall. A hard start three metres right of 'Morning Thunder'. Climb up to a bolt then move right and up to a short crack. Continue up the wall moving left at the top to belay on the same ledge as 'Morning Thunder'.

Originally done with a large cairn (pyramid) and stick to avoid the start, as well as a rest on the third bolt. Start five metres right of Apparitions of a Film Star, below the steep orange wall. The first two bolts are badly positioned. Climb past the first bolt with minor difficulty, then cruise to the top.

The white water streak between Vomit and Dreamweaver, with excellent bouldery face climbing. Either start up Vomit and move right along the ledge to the first bolt, or boulder the hard, short wall. Follow the bolts, place some gear (including #3 camalot) then straight through the overhang above. Scramble up to DBB as for Vomit. Originally a bold and direct wall with good ankle-breaking potential, Mike added bolts in 1990 making it very popular.

danger

Just another unprotected slab route to fill in the space. Start off some big flakes about 7m left of 'Rock Lobster' and 8m right of 'Tip Stripper'. It was inspected on top-rope before the first (solo) ascent.

Climb the slab above the large flake to the obvious scoops in the steep wall. Up the wall to easier ground then up, right of the lichen, to join Solantic near the belay.

Hard slabbing. Climb the crack (Plimsoll Line) for five metres then step left onto the wall. Crimp delicately past three bolts and finish up a short crack. Name changed by Mike in 2023.

The outstanding curving line 30 meters to the left. An easy start... But then the crack fades out.

Horrendously technical pocket climbing with more bolts than decent holds. Start on the brink, where the surf meets the slabs. Clip the bolt to avoid a watery death. Pull leftwards out over the waves to a sloping foothold, then cruise up past two more bolts. A small detour left, then relentless pocket pulling to the double bolt belay and rap chain.

A good position. Start from the finish of 'Morsehold'. Up the flaky orange corner, then the diagonal crack.

The middle line, overtaken by blackberries and leaves at last sight. A slabby start, then progressively thinner.

Overhung cranking followed by a well protected face problem. Start 15 metres right of 'Jacob', on top of a pile of boulders. The first old frayed fixed RP has now disappeared, so crank through to a higher one! Continue to the hangerless bolt, solve the face problem and up to the top.

Place a good wire with a stick, then launch up the overhanging podded crack. When the lower crack ends, move left into the more regular handcrack. Wires and cams for the first half, a few #2 and/or #3 camalots for the upper crack.

The overhanging diagonal crackline out of the left side of the cave, then hand traverse right to some corners which lead to the top.

Up the delightful corner crack about 20 metres right of 'Ebony Quill', then balancy moves to a single bolt belay.

A circular exercise out of 'Hermes' roof to join 'Thor'. Move left from under the roof, around the lip and up a groove then back right to the belay.

Step right from the corner once you are above the overhang and climb the groove up and right.

Strenuous climbing up the small corner. Head left to the flake and layaways. Finish left as for Extremely Anal.

Continue up from the corner and slightly right to a jug just below The Bummer, then traverse left on big holds.

Reach high to the first bolt, follow the right hand side of the boulder straight up reaching a slab above, continue slightly left to double rings as for WFDVT.

First route climbed on the crag. Hard, bouldery climbing on great rock. Shares a lower off with 'Sausage Factory'.

A long route with steep sections separated by rests. Start on the small ledge below the small and shallow chimney.

The wall three metres left of 'Pas de Deux' with two bolts. A thin crux past the first bolt.

Some great climbing starting up the crack and then through the tricky bulge.

3m right of Patience, in the courtyard behind 'Snatch it Back and Hold It'. A really nice thin flake with three bolts.

Great technical and sustained climbing on really good rock. Start at the corner and climb up right to the vague arête and boulder your way up weaving left and right of this feature until you get to the last bolt then head right to the anchors of Milla Jovovich. Might be harder than it says on the tin, but maybe not. You be the judge. Fantastic climbing either way!

Start 10m uphill and left from Crackle on a blunt boulder with a mossy streak down the front. Up the flake and blunt arete to half height, then diagonally right and up the scoop. DBB on top.

Sustained climbing up the face with a perfect finger lock and a hand crack finish.

One of the best routes at the crag! A long route with a punch at the end.

Up to the slopy ledge then swing out and climb the sustained face on stella rock to the top.

Excellent! Up the slab/chimney to the top of the leaning boulder. Up the slab to the bottom of the tail - the extraordinary laser-like dyke! Five bolts in all.

The arete 10 metres right of 'Dead Horse Gap' with an undercut and gymnastic start. Well protected climbing past six bolts leads to a ledge and bolt belay. Rap off, or climb up and across the chimney to a platform from which you can downclimb 'Boulder Choke'.

Takes the blunt arête right of Chopper with 2 bolts. Start as for Chopper then move right onto the arete.

A superb climb. Start four metres right of 'New Brutalist'. Crank up the wall on flakes past four bolts, then move right onto the blunt arete and up past three more bolts. There is a chain belay at the top of this climb (inches from perfect cam cracks) to save the two minute walk around the back!

"This may have lager appeal." - Ken Luck. On the bottom (valley side) of the boulder is a wall with two bolts. The crux is after the second.

Start on the east (valley) side of the main tor. Up the wall past four bolts to the wart (knob). Continue up the slab to the rap chain and bolts.

Technical, steep and classy. Crux getting onto the wall.

Starts at the RHS of the improbable blank looking face. Up the obvious layback feature.

A bouldery start leads to easier climbing. You may want the stick clip.

The improbable looking wall five metres right (about 10 metres left of 'Tri State'), featuring hard wall climbing on sharp and friable holds. Climb the brushed wall with three bolts. The crux is after the second bolt.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

Start just left of 'Tri State'. Up the wall and slab with four bolts.

Gear required to belay at top - or wrap your rope around a boulder.

Inconspicuous holds at all angles make you earn this solid little climb.

Nice variety of moves on decent sized holds

The slabby arete two boulders right of French Connections. "Fantastically thin layaways and edges" off the block past three bolts.

Good hard movements

The wavy slab just left of 'Blood on His Lips'. A high first bolt and a good candidate for a stick clip. Belay on gear and walk off.

Sharp arete left of the top pitch of Marmalade with four or five bolts. Rap station at the top.