Routes in Illawarra and Shoalhaven for selected grade

Rap from Titanical rap station over the southern cliff, use access rungs to move up past big (wet) boulder and onto ledge, you will find a 2 ring bolt belay for this route, which starts left of the belay up an obvious orange flake. Take care to place a decent purple camalot (0.5) before the first crimpy moves (about 5m off the deck). The rest of the gear is bomber, slightly spaced. Double ring bolt to lower off.

Superb hanging arete to the right of The Fish Book with slick orange rock. Mostly bolts, but still requires a single set of finger to hand sized cams. This is quite a pumper! (who wants to try the first DWS ascent?). Like the other routes on this wall, once you get to the top of the good steep rock you need to scramble up easy blocky terrain for 10m to the ledge. This route was partially retrobolted by mistake, after the first ascentists didn't write up their route.

Bolt belay left of Gigatonne. Good gear up wonderful crack to start, then make move right and go up with more good cams. Stay right of vegetated ledge and keep going up until a good ledge where a lower off was considered (22 to here). Instead clip a bolt to your right and keep going up the left side of the turret to the anchor (23).

Up small corner (bolt) to wall, then tending right slightly past more bolts.

Named in honour of the second who had a hangover and had recently been listening to a Philip Glass song "Liquid Days"

Up corner, then left passing bolts to arete, up arete with cams. Near top, traverse back right and up final bolt line.

Start: Start as for 'Liquid Daze'

A classic trad line ruined by a line of bolts and an anchor set too low.

Small but bomber gear the whole way, do your best to ignore the bolts until this line is restored. Keep going past the anchor to the single hanger at the end of the good rock, then back-jump to the anchor to clean

Bring doubles in small camalots up to #0.75 , and singles up to #3. No wires required however you could probably find some. Starts at base of wall on right and climbs into twin crack system via Ubolts then steep pumpy sport climbing on gear. Very well protected when the moves get tough and a total pumper at the end, Make sure you save a #1 for last break and don't bail out left , direct to flake then loweroffs. Some extendable draws help for double placements in breaks on headwall.

Climb off the block staying out of the corner passing a few FHs and many medium cams. Is slightly run out at the top, but is easier and you can put in some big cams if you really want.

Start: Rap in to an exposed triangular block with 2 FH for belay.

1. 12m (18)

2. 8m (23)

The wall above The Second Secret. Up past 2 and 2.5 friend and 3 (old) bolts with hard moves past the 2nd bolt. Take large wires. Double bolt belay.

Bouldery, mind pumping finger work up an undercut arete. Start just right of Stratum. Traverse across the face (bolt) to undercut arete and up to ledge and bollard. Easily up or rap off

One of the most popular routes on the wall, mainly because it's mostly bolts! Don't be too relaxed though, the bolts are spaced and you need a spot of trad in the middle section (small cams). The moves and rock are fab though. Starts at right end of wall at undercut section. Stickclip first bolt or get a good spot.

A roof climb. 3m right of Pox On A hot Thin Roof. Up the choss to dyno out roof and up left and finish as for Pox On A hot Thin Roof.

'What's wrong with a mind of my own'. - Dead Kennedys. For those runts without hte genetic gift of reach or crankability, this climb could possibly feel quite hard. HA, HA, HA,

(1) The next groove along from MR more of a face climbing problem than a crank exercise

Stick clip bolt, then watch a Wide-boyz montage for inspiration. Pull funky moves (crux), to move up to roof. Make your way to the corner for a rest then make your way up lovely thin headwall crack (20) to lower-offs.

Another featureless groove by Claw packed with fixed runners, all three of them. Done complete from innovation to degradation in less than an hour or so, basically a stemming problem.

(1). The groove 3 meters right of PS.

'K.C. sux, 3st, & peg scar' are the highlights of this climb. There are also two fixed wires to be found in the groove, one is a Moorhead and the other is a turd, these two pieces of pro plus the associated graffiti make this climb a real classic, worth doing even if you hate the sight of it.

(1) The groove ten metres right of PS.

'Think of a gross name Chunder?' - 'Fuckbars, mate.' Another absolute classic of the area, not too hard but not real easy. It has plenty of scope for fighting with the pro and for making quick progress while doing so.

(1) The crack and groove twenty metres right of RMIV. Up the crack thin laybacking to start then jamming, the crux is getting into the jam crack where good progress can be made to the ledge on the left.

Start on the right-hand side of the middle arete of Windjammer Wall - 5m right of Jaws. Up the wall and then arete passing bolts and cams. Move around to the R-side of the arete after clipping final bolt. Take lots of brackets. Double ring belay.

The classic layback pump out of the area cos it's the only one ear. Good climbing up a steep corner crack and just when you thought you have had it - BLAMMO? - up comes a good rest.

(1) The next crack along from Sex, as the crack degenerates into worthlessness cut out right to get into the wide top chimney.

Start on top of the block, at the small L-facing corner just right of Some Weird Sin. Up enjoyable jugs, passing a couple of small overlaps to base of crack. Up thin crack then into hand crack to finish. Double ring belay.

A good face climb with a long reach that can't be very easily cranked out. Two bolts protect the initial easy face and a good 'TURD' can be used to protect the crack passage. This climb is a must for runts to throw themselves at, who knows you might even find a way up at only grade 18.

(1) The blank looking wall to the right of EMP with the 3 top bolts in it.' Rap off the bolt as for the previous climb, remember CLAW put this bolt in so don't trust it it could be fatal...

Not much is known about this route except tha Muir wrote 'DEAD' at the bottom of it and included an arrow to show you just what is dead, which turned out to be a tree or hunk of lantanna. The route itself appears to be a badly cleaned out Rod Young Ant Prehn crack that looks slightly sus in the solidarity department. To put it another way, I am trying to tell you that the route is probably the second biggest lump of shit at the quarry; the first being Ants Turn On Top.

(1) The next obvious open pile of crap to the right of B.

The name is sickening though the climb doesn't look too bad. Another Ant Prehn Rod Young mix of talents in creating the worthless. The crux is laybacking the drill holes at the top, the climb should provide you with as much excitement as a dead rat in your jockstrap.

(1) the crack to the right of D.

The second line of rings left of Jaws' major corner. Five rings and several finger/hand sized cams to lower off anchors below the top of the cliff where the line joins Liquid Lunch. Connecting it into the top is a possibility at around grade 26 and has been attempted by Neil & others.

Not a bad little 1 1/4" chimney, a very hard to jam size that required an extensive tape job on the arse to protect iti from abrasion. This crack is made for 1 1/2" friends and is a bad fit for twos so gather up as many as you can and suck on it.

(1) The well defined crack to the right of AS. The chossy stuff at the top is avoided by easy climbing in the left groove.

Face between Enlaecmnt arete and Karate Chops roof crack. Climb small banksia to cavelet on lip of cave. Wave up the techy nice face above. Top-rope only at the moment.

An amazing line encompassing some highly unique climbing for the northern Illawarra. Technical start leads to some interesting powerful movement on the arete, followed by epic pockets on the lip of the roof with uncanny exposure! Mandatory 60cm extender required for the roof bolt and a long to extended draw on the bolt just before the roof is ideal!

Climbs the right arete of the impressive buttress. Starts at the little crack at the entrance to the alcove. Interesting and technical climbing up a nice line. Climb the crack, turn the roof and up the arete on good rock to anchors under the upper roof.

Look up what do you see? Look down, you're still on the ground. What's holding you there? Look up you see bolts leading up the best arete you have ever seen (at least at Nowra), its easy there are holds everywhere. Look down your feet are still holding you back.

Start: Just left of the arete of 'Fractured' Fairytales

#This has been rebolted. The major bolted arete line directly below the lookout and on the left side of the orange wall (when facing the cliff). There are 4 closely spaced ringbolts at the top of this (highline anchors). Rap into hanging belay shared with Flying Bushwalker (two RBs). Be careful getting off the belay and also above the undercut roof on the upper third - a fall from either spot could be a bit grim. Climb the arete or corner to join the original start at two chopped bolts, then a short face that turns into arete then finish out left up exposed sandy face. Official grade, route name and first ascent details all unknown. At least 10 bolts on this route.

Panther classic. Excellent climbing on the flake with a pumpy finish. Start as for Tell Your Story Walking and at third bolt break right across face to gain left facing flake. Up this to top!

Great climbing with a low down crux and good rock. May the force be with you.

Start: When you walk out of the bottom of the access slot this is the first route on the main wall.

A really good piece of rock after it leaves 'Fractured' Fairytale s. Shares the same start to a few moves past the undercling flake, then it just gets better. The crux is somewhere up the top.

Start: Same start as 'Fractured' Fairytales

Mega overhung arete that can be led as one giant pitch or three little pitches with semi-hanging belays. Best way is to link the first two pitches into one pitch. The route is all bolts. Fix rope and rap in down Captain Cheese off double u-bolts on boulder at top of cliff. Rap down all the way to the base of the killer arete and double u-bolt hanging belay with teeny tiny footledge ledge (you may need to clip a few bolts on the way down to stay connected to the wall - it's overhung!)

1. 12m (23) Superb technical arete on pockets. Start on right side, then switch to left side, then finish right side. Finish in white sandy scoop - semi-hanging belay off double u-bolts.

2. 10m (22) Swing left onto 'tufa' and undercut arete (a bit chossy) then up rad square arete feature to semi-hanging belay off double u-bolts.

3. 20m (22) Continue up the exposed arete to top. This pitch is a bit contrived with the corner just to the right in a few spots. The last bolt is a tough and scary clip! (maybe put a sling on it when you rap in)

Line of bolts to the right of Coprophagia. Sustained crimp-fest, climbs like an Elvis Tribute , Last hold above DRB.

A push over for the grade. Soft as slime.

Start: On the wall just left of the arete.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Starts 5m right of 'Flake' Orgasm at the arete. Batman up to 2nd bolt (or climb tree). Climb the thin arete, taking care with the 3rd clip, a long sling would be useful. Gain the upper face nice climbing to anchors.

Stick clip 1st bolt and matle up onto the ledge. Lovely moves between nice holds on great rock! Being tall will help

Great climb, though you will need to read the rock to get through sections without having to bust your arse cranking some hard stuff.

Start: Under easy blocky arrangement that access the left side of the ledge that runs across the middle of the cliff.

If you like a climb that doesn't give up until near the end then this is for you. From the ledge the climbing gets progressively harder until in the middle of the wall you meet the crux. It still has some nuts to dish out until the mega hole in the top. Climbs the centre of the wall visible behind the guy pictured on Drop Bears. Quite a bit easier if you can stand on your feet, probably another grade if your footwork is crap like mine.

Start: Same start as the YAK thing on the slab.

Thin wall climbing with a pumpy finish. The first third of this route is pretty crap rock quality but then it improves the higher it gets. Three distinct crux sections - crimpy and bold, balance layaway and finally power reachy! Starts 40m left of Marbled Meat at large slabby wall.

Hard move guards the anchors. Rebolted 2012

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Fine climb with deceptive crux

Undercut start to (shock horror) short bolted corner crack. When this ends pick your way up pumpy pocketed headwall until blistering crimpy crux at smooth orange section. Finish up long section of large sandy pockets. Retire. 13 bolts.

First climb on the wall with stainless steel rings.

Bolted by the RAT in his come back days but proved a bit too stiff. Start at the crack as for 'Plasto Bambola'. Go right? Graded 25 on the ACA guide. Who knows if it's even been done?

Continuously leaning climbing up the entire length of the wall. Four meters of overhang in 20 meters adds the interest.

Start: Off block two meters to the right of Drop Bears.

Line between Apres Ski on the left and Zakuski on the right. Start up Apres Ski and continue straight up. A thin slabby crux that may be easier if you can reach past the way bad holds to the bad holds above. Be prepared to stand on some pretty tiny foot holds at the crux.

Up the poorly protected slab onto fun sidepull features. Bring a bolt plate and a sling for before the roof. Headwall is excellent to a jug above drb anchor.

Technical start leads to an easing mid section, milk the rest as the top gets very steep

Start: Start off the block and climb the blunt flake to begin.

Starts inbetween Lounge Lizard and Gecko. At second bolt the crack for Gecko can be used. Use anchor for Lounge Lizard as 5th bolt then climb sraight up steep head wall to the top.

Short punchy face. This is NOT a three star route. Maybe one star.

A good line of bolts kept reasonable by the right hand flake system. Once you get to the fourth bolt you've got it by the balls. If it starts to get desperate higher up just keep grabbing that right leading flake.

Start: Two meters to the left of the arete. And to the right of the pox hole.

Up Dodecahedron for 3 bolts, move left around the shield and up the pumpy wall.

Clip first bolt on 'Betty Blue' and head left. Crank up on the crimpers to the final throw making sure to take a few whips for the camera along the way!

Start: Start at 'Betty Blue'

Steep and pumpy start and crimpy techo finish

Start: At the leaning arete

Same start as DD, then directly up thru the bulges with increasing pump - eases off the higher you get.

The pick of the bunch. Goes up the sanest chunk of orange rock, in the most direct manner. Once around the roof the slab is easy.

Start: On the easy orange wall two meters right of the other route and just left of the cave.

Classic 'Nowra' arete - which is hard and pumpy.

Start: Start at the obvious arete to the right of 'TP'. Some people do an easier start on the face a few metres left of the arete proper.

Eat your spinach for this one, short and steep on great rock.

Start: 3 mtrs right of two peas. Shares same start as Four and Twenty. Up two bolts then goes left to anchors over the lip

Looks amazing, is amazing !! Awesome rock. Start off the ledge as per DD, keep heading right out on the wall and follow the flake feature in ridiculous position. Following the line straight up where the black rock meets the orange rock all the way to top.

A proud line that shares the start with 'Double Decaf' but when DD goes left BL goes rightish, stay direct thru the awesome bulges. The 2016 guide has Emporium in a similar position.