Routes in Central Tablelands

Exceptional chimney with good gear. Approach pitch is rather ordinary but you soon forget about it when starting bridging this old school style classic. Fantastic climb. Name, FA and grade unknown and temporary ones have been given. Approach from top using trees and 80m static rope.

Superb crack of various sizes with some steep sections. Rock and pro is bomber up to the last 10m. Last 10m section is much easier but on questionable rock. Can be easily accessed from top using trees and a 80m static rope. Route name, FA and grade unknown and temporary ones have been given

First pitch (35m approx) is great crack with good gear which might feel spaced at times (crux). Most climbing involves various techniques as opposed to pure splitters. Lots of face climbing and the jamming isn't totally straight forward. Very cruxy, most climbing is around grade 20ish apart from two short sections. Second pitch (20m) can definitely go straight up (slightly left) at grade 20ish but be warned that rock quality is nowhere as good as first pitch and the gear is mostly rattly tricam type of thing with only few ok cams. It seems like there might an escape pitch(es?)to the left involving fairly unprotected traverse on easy ground. Grades, FA, FA 2nd pitch, name are unknown and will be updated.

The gob-smacking brutish looking line opposite the main cave. The type of line that looms over you daring you to step up and give it a try... Does it even go?, how hard?, how wide?, how wild? and that roof... wow ...

A steepish offwidth start (after bouldering up initial section to reach the first gear) arcs up, narrowing into merely a wide crack then a brief loose section before reaching the belay in alcove at roof. Some loose stuff about here so be careful. Gr 20? ~35m?

Novel moves horizontally out a wide bell/bombay slot then drop down weirdly into good fist crack to turn lip and easily to top. Belay off large chockstone or bollards. Rap-off bollard on double ropes. Gr 21? ~20m?

Gear: 1 or 2 BigBro #4's, a few #6 Cams, a couple of 5's, a few 4's, and singles down to Purple, vary number of large gear depending on how solid you feel... Belay takes good #2-4 cams, best to hang out near edge.

About 10m right of cave in shallow alcove. Nice hands and fists corner crack leads to slightly thrutchy offwidth section and into small cave and rest. Back out of cave and up into chimney to top.

A bunch of large cams as needed, plus some medium stuff for in or above Chimney section. Best to belay from very base of route. Grades from 18 to 20 were suggested so we averaged it out to 19... enjoyable old school climbing ...

The central crack line up to flake joining A left crack, to finish up A right chimney..Extremely good.

The obvious hand crack to the right of the amazing beyond belief cave.Up flared hands much harder then it looks into corner system and right under roof finishing up A Right chimney.

Amazing finger crack dividing the Disbelief Cave in two. Tricky easier start to shallow hueco below clean splitter (handy Z4#0.1 and bomber C4#4). From there, the angle is about 45-60deg and most of your body weight will be held up by 3 consecutive solid finger locks in some of the most outrageous moves with footwork at head height. Progress on good but shallow huecos to juggy section. Return to ceiling crack with several finger locks up to a fix wire at the end of the finger crack. Always dry and drizzle free. https://youtu.be/Wsu631XwrWU?si=GrCxwJvDCp9SW7Dq

Mind blowing line along the lip of a huge cave going from the bottom right to the top left. 15m of increasingly steep hand to wide hand/fist crack. Then 25m ceiling with a variety of fist/offwidth/jugs/chimney, ends where the ceiling crack meets the other side of the cave. No topout, backclean. If you stop at 15m just before the crack opens up and steepens to 80deg overhanging you can call it Disbelief (24)

Very well protected all the way. Steep section C4 1x#0.75, 1x#1, 2x#2, 3x#3 Ceiling section 8x#4, 2x#5, 1x#6

The whole crack is protected from rain and sun but will start seeping after several days of proper downpour.

This is the short version of the climb Beyond Belief. It goes slightly overhanging on good hand jams to heavily overhanging on wider hands/fists. It basically stops close to the turning point where the proper ceiling is starting. You'll know if you're just in "Disbelief" or willing to go Beyond Belief at this point. Grade can feel on the soft side if you have large hands.

Two pitch sport route up the wall 10m right of Sacred Ground. Starts low down on the grey slab. The pitches could be linked with long runners.

1. 32m (18) Fun jugging up slab and orange wall to comfy ledge and anchors.

2. 32m (24) Steep and exciting climbing up the wall above. Finishes up major flake crack feature with huge runout to lower-off anchors. A #0.5 Camalot would make this runout sane.

Bolted line right of Sacred Ground done as one epic long pitch. Slab up the bowl to start (scary to first bolt) then launch up juggy wall, trend left across overhung "cave" and up face above.

Wide crack mostly with steep mid-section to head wall wide crack. Usually done in 2 pitches at least but could be done as one. Belay in middle is possible off a variety of gear from wires to mediums cams.

Large rack advisable. Also tape if you haven't been to Buffalo recently. Double ropes best if wanting to rap off.

The left leaning thin crack 2m left of Sacred Ground. Originally climbed as three pitches.

1. 15m (10). Crack to steep section.

2. 20m (22). Head left along the flake crack past ferns to SHB (cams, wires) on left at base of vertical finger crack.

3. 35m (21). Follow the finger crack until it peters out and then head straight up headwall (BR) to the top. 1BB (quality unknown...). Then up and left 4m to another 1BB.

The right facing corner 10m to the left of Sacred Ground.

1. 35m (17). Corner and chimney to ledge with blocks. Poorly protected but good rock.

2. 30m. An easy but spectacular canyon delving into the bowels of the hill before scrambling easily up to ground level to finish.

10m right of Andy and Caroline. Easily up line of juggy scoops then runout face above to lower-offs. First ascent & name unknown.

An outstanding, naturally protected line up the obvious weakness through right side of the cave. The first half was originally climbed by Greg Child (and co) at grade 23 to the small stance just before the angle begins to steepen dramatically. From this point things get pumpy and you will need to draw on your bouldering nous. After the business is over be prepared for a longer-than-expected head wall above.

Airy face and corner climbing up right side of massive orange wall. All bolts need hangers (bring 15). Starts on pedestal on left edge of Bell's Line cave.

1. 25m (22) Left and up fall (8 bolts) to bolt belay.

2. 25m (22) Up superbly positioned corner to top then right onto easy slab. (13 bolts + 2 hangers for the belay)

3. 4m Easily to top of pagoda

Ringbolts up centre of huge orange wall. Apparently it is one giant 60+m pitch

Left side of major vertical orange wall. Up seam crack and wall above Supplement the six carrot bolts with #9 Rock and small cams. Lower-off anchor on right side of small cave.

Roof hand crack in a cave. Although the whole line includes climbing P1 & P2 below the cave and includes topping out the easy groove above, the popular option is to climb and exit the P3 roof (crux), stand up then aid back down to clean the gear.

1. 25m (12) Right facing corner

2. 20m (17) Roof crack then jugs

3. 20m (24) Roof crack then steep groove

Offwidth #6 roof crack with low footwork and features inside the crack. Easy start to wedged boulder where a start anchor can be built. Chimney out to roof crack, turn lip then finger/hand traverse to next lip. Lower off. The last few meters to topout is easy climbing on rotten rock and has not been climbed. Located in a small cave just before accessing Supercrack.

Start right of arete, up arete then left to crack on left wall into a black hanging corner to top. 35m Rap off large tree.

Corner and arete with two ferns, on the North side of Main Gully. You pass this heading down to WTAF.

Think your way onto ledge, then wander between arete for holds and corner for gear. Gets half a star for the cool pocket above fern numero uno.

Super steep roof crack on bomber hands and fists with plenty of gear. Gear recommended double #4#3#2#1, gear before first lip has to be extended or unclipped otherwise rope drag will be problematic. Lower off.

Good little line - but a death wish to access. Starts 50m further along the ironstone dinnerplate ledge. Go around the corner from the cave, and up the unprotected atrocious ironstone dinner plates to get to it.

The furthest route on the right hand side of the cave. Starts with two unpleasant fixed hangers just on the outside of the cave.

The line of ring bolts in between St. Andrews Cross and Melancholic that heads up and diagonally right through many ticked and bad looking holds. Might be a project?

The bolted crack. Hard to gain access to roof crack, then fight the pump to the anchors.

Smiley black corner

Cruxy to gain the roof. Then heel hooking heaven.

Start on platform in the back of cave. 5*RB 2*RB Anchor (7 * Draws)

Crag Classic - the obvious line just inside the cave.

Just outside the cave. The top is wet in rain.

The 1st route you come to. On the outside of the cave. Scramble up EZ ground, to a nice flake - punchy to anchors

Another juggy slab, straight up.

2m lt of FF, stright up face past half moon feature.

2m lt of Pr - Jamie, straight up easy juggy face.

2 lt of FF45, straight up juggy slab.

2m lt of T, straight up Juggy face to shared anhcors

Right side of blank arete to shared anhcors

Up obvious features to juggy headwall

Steep start with big moves to balancey slab to anchors

Bouldery start and juggy face

Up left sided flake and up juggy face

Up right side of flake, to hard finish

Start just down end of ledge, up through juggy sheepish terrain to shared anchors

Short punchy wall, finishing at shared anchors before ledge

3m lt of arete, up face to anchors below bulge.

Shared start with Pr 2 - dude, step left after 2nd bolt, through overhang to anchors.

Straight up techy slab to anchors near the top

Start up slab and traversing in from the left up through shallow funnel

Right side of buttress, tending slightly left then straight up rounded blank slab.

Juggy slightly step face to anchors at ledge.

3m left of AF, straight up to anchors with hard move over the bulge.

First climb on the east side, up thin face to anchors in the cave.

5m rt of LACIYS, up featured face onto balancey slab slab to anchors above bulge

First climb on ledge on western side., just as your entering the gully. Short wall to mantle, up over bulge, slab to anchors.

Anchors: Tree belay at top. Take #1 and #1.5 friend for belay at the bottom, 10m above ground on good ledge.

Access: Rap down arete and preclip first bolt 7 bolts, sling , friends # 0.5 #1.5 #2.5

Start 1m left of the arête. Past bolt then #1.5 friend then sling over big jug. 5 bolts then slot the #0.5 and/or #2.5 friend in the horizontal, one more bolt to the top.

A few thin moves up an aesthetic wall.

Anchors: Tree belay at top. Take #1 and #1.5 friend for belay at the bottom, 10m above ground on good ledge.

Access: Rap down arete and preclip first bolt

Start as for Fiery Fur balls. After third bolt veer left a couple of meters via #4 friend and small cam slot, then straight up past 6 bolts

This was going to be the crag warm-up at 16.

Anchors: Tree belay at top. Large ledge at base

Access: Rap down slot right of Georgie Girl 4 bolts and small to medium gear Up easy wide crack then small to medium gear in crack (need sling to extend). Large jug on right plus a bolt. Straight up past another 3 bolts, then last piece is Friends #1 and smaller in horizontal.

Not a bad little corner despite appearances.

Anchors: Tree belay at top. Large ledge at base

Access: Rap down Georgie Girl Rack of cams and wires. Up the crack. The start is unprotected unless you have some very large cams.

Some fine arête moves.

Anchors: 2 bolts at the top. Natural belay at base of arête/crack on small foot-ledge. Wires and small friends.

Access: Rap down the right side of the route. 11 bolts. Up. Optional belay at 20m. A nice 19 if you climb the crack then traverse to the arête just above 2nd bolt. (Using crack for gear or second bolt).

Anchors: One bolt plus medium gum tree 5m back at cliff top. 2 bolts at base of route semi hanging.

Access: Rap down 1/2m left of Pedigree. Rack of friends #1 to #4. Up 2m then diagonally right for 5m. Up past 3 bolts.

Good wall for a warm-up.

Anchors: One bolt plus cluster of small gum trees 5m back at cliff top. 2 bolts at base of route semi hanging.

Access: Rap down 1/2m left of the route. Rack of friends plus 3 bolts. Up

Has a sting in its tail.

Anchors: Tree belay at top. 2 bolt belay at base. 8m above the ground at the base of the flake/crack. Semi hanging belay.

Access: Use tree belay anchor. Rap on the right hand side of the bulging rock at the end of the route. 6 bolts and a rack of friends, doubles on #1 and #1.5. Up flake/crack which trends left. Straight up orange rock. Need to look for gear in upper half. Take some extender quickdraws. Go left after last bolt or straight up which is slightly harder.

Great route. Good warm-up.

Anchors: One belay bolt at the top plus a #3.5 friend. 2 belay bolts at base 8m above the ground on ledge.

Access: Rap down from Hotdog anchors. Rack of wires and small friends plus 8 bolts. Up crack then step right at the bulge towards a bolt. Up past bolts. Veer right after last bolt to anchor.

Nice climb.

Anchors: 2 belay bolts at the top. 2 belay bolts at base 8m above the ground. Semi hanging belay.

Access: Rap down from Hotdog anchors. There are two cam breaks. Friends either #1 or #1.5 or #3 plus a #4 and 8 bolts. Go left at second cam break then back right.

Very nice wall. Sweeping orange expanse at the left end of Hotdog wall. Has some sporting runouts in the upper half, so bring some extra undies and have fun.

Anchors: One bolt and tree belay at the end of the route. One belay bolt plus #2.5 friend at base (semi hanging belay) Note: anchor is high.

Access: Locate 2 rap bolts a few metres back from edge. Abseil down steps and dinner plates or scramble with a prusik for approx 12m to bolt on ledge one metre above where vertical rock begins. Rebelay/attach rope to bolt and continue to rap another 28m to small ledge 8m above the ground (you will need to swing and clip a bolt about 10m above the belay stance to be able to reach the belay anchor).

10 bolts and 2 cams. 5 bolts then #3.5 friend after another metre, 3 bolts, #3 friend after another metre, 2 bolts. If you hate rope drag, unclip 3rd bolt runner after you clip the 4th and put long draws on the 6th and 7th bolts.

Very steep arete climbing overhanging wall on the left of Hotdog Wall. Batman start requires a 5m stick clip on a DUB anchor, a regular stick clip taped to a sturdy wood stick will do the trick. A 70m rope will be ample for lowering, a 60m might just be enough, be careful and tie a knot at the end. Walk in access is possible following the gully to the left of the pagodas, it will split left at -33.322499, 150.133324, keep following left and down pass Pet Wall etc

If we only had young forearms again. Cruxy. Good fun. Anchors: 2 bolts at the top. 2 belay bolts 37m down and 15m above the ground on small footledge.

Access: To the of Froth Wall past the Pillar. Rap down the wall and swing right 3m when nearing the belay. 13 bolts and a friend #2.5 after 11th bolt.

Nice straight climb with some good moves. Anchors: 2 belay bolts at the top. 2 belay bolts at base (small ledge 8m off the ground)

Access: Rap down the wall between Foaming and Rabies Up crack, small to medium friends and wires. Straight up past 7 bolts.

Has all types of rock, solid, chossy, iron stone etc. Great position but take care. Originally had 7 bolts. Brendan did a classic self sandbag, felt weak, got scared on some runouts with suspect rock and cried for a top rope. It now has 12 bolts and is much more pleasant. Anchors: 2 belay bolts at the top. 2 belay bolt at base (spacious ledge 8m off the ground)

Access: Rap down the wall between Foaming and Rabies Straight up the line of scoops, 3m right of the arete. 12 bolts plus micro cams and #2.5 friend. Up past 9 bolts then micro cams in horizontal, up to #2.5 friend at large break (long sling required). Move left and easily up pockets then back right. Through overlap and up past 3 bolts.

Rap in to DBB.