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Routes in Central Western Slope and Plains for selected grade

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Showing all 81 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Warrumbungles Crater Bluff
21 Two Planks and Some Nails

Stat: Direct start to 'Crucifixion'.

Easy start on trad, then techy face past three FHs to runout scary finish on shallow small wires to double bolt anchor at end of 'Crucifixion' pitch 1.

FA: Neil Monteith, 2010

Mixed trad 25m, 3
Warrumbungles Bluff Mountain
21 Corinth

Start between Bastion Buttress and Over and Out.

  1. 50m Straight up to prominent slab which has a left facing corner on the right. Up through corner directly above the slab. Belay on ledge.

  2. 40m Traverse diagonally right for 25m until at the base of a prominent V. Climb the corner which forms the left branch of the V. Straight up face to ledge. RP and bolt.

  3. 25m (crux) Start left of piton, up to rail, traverse right, bolt, to corner. Up corner then left onto ledge, bolt, up past bolt to gain ledge. Traverse diagonally left to base of prominent corner.

  4. 25m Up steep corner to ledge. Up to sloping ledge at base of corner.

  5. 55m Up corner until possible to traverse right for 10m. Up through roof and corner to easier ground.

  6. 40m Up easily.

FA: Peter Grezl & Peter Kuczera, 2012

Trad 240m, 6
21 Over and Out

Starts 15 m L of Stonewall Jackson.

  1. 45 m Up groove to R-leading ramps. Lower ramp for 10 m, then ramp above to small roof. Past this on R; lower then upper ramp to flake.

  2. 35 m Ramp for 15 m, then up past ledges to small corner below flake-crack.

  3. 20 m Flake, past bulge to ledges.

  4. 35 m Crack on R; L to cracks. Up to bolt belay.

  5. 30 m Up to bush, then R along lip of Stonewall Jackson roof. Groove.

  6. 45 m Up R to groove on L. Groove, then R past tree.

  7. 40 m Up L, then easily to L-leading groove. Up.

FA: Lucas Trihey & Keith Bell (alt), 1989

Trad 250m, 7
21 Lusty's

Start just R of arete between Flight of the Phoenix and Elijah. Climb arete, mainly on its R. Sustained.

FA: Mike Law & Mark Moorhead, 1982

Trad 300m
21 Trouser Tracks

Some loose rock and poor pro in upper section. Start at bolt for Elijah.

  1. 50 m Up R to Elijah's second belay.

  2. 50 m Up L to buttress between two major grooves. Flake, then L groove to niche below protruding block.

  3. 15 m Up to ledge.

  4. 50 m Crack through orange wall, then continue L through break in overhang. Now R, then up steeply to stance.

  5. 50 m R, then back L to vague groove. Groove through steep rock to ledge.

  6. 50 m Groove.

  7. 50 m Up easily

The topo is approximate. It should be updated next time someone climbs it.

FA: Keith Bell & John Fantini, 1987

Trad 320m, 7
21 Captain Blood

1-2: As for Aladinsane.

3: Up L-most of three big corners.

4: Rising traverse L over loose-looking 'splatter· of stones on wall beneath overhang. Up to semi hanging belay at lip of overhang

5: Up L for 15 m, then back R.

6: Up steeply.

7: Up.

FA: Evan Bieske & Chris Frost, 1987

Trad 350m
21 Gettysberg Address

Probably largely a repeat of For Starters. Start just R of prominent buttress R of Ginsberg.

1-8) Steep first pitch. Stay on arete all the way, crossing Ginsberg and other routes where they each cross arete.

FA: Lucas Trihey & Chris Jackson, 1988

Trad 320m
21 Ulysses Direct Start

Starts 15m L of Ulysses at groove.

  1. 20m Groove to slabby area below steepening.

  2. 35 m Up, then R round headwall. Up and L to ledge.

  3. 15 m Up steeply to ledge, with crux of Ulysses above.

FA: Keith Bell, 1983

Trad 70m
21 Tartarus

Follow track past Ginsberg, drop to lower level and R-leading ledge on R side of water-streak R of Tantalus.

  1. 10 m Cross slabs to belay in bushes just past water-streak.

  2. 35 m Up to bulge, then diagonally R and up. Continue until main slab is visible. Up L to tree.

  3. 30 m Up R to groove, then groove to just short of water-streak. Up R to poor belay.

  4. 35 m Up, then L. Steeply up to break. Follow break L, then flake. Up to next break, then up to groove. Groove to bolt belay.

  5. 35 m Groove, over boulder, then R. Up, then diagonally L under bulge. Crack, then L to water-streak, up this then R.

  6. 35 m R, then groove past loose boulders to small ledge.

  7. 30m Up, then diagonally R through bulge to cracks. Cracks, through bulge, then further cracks. Traverse L to belay.

  8. 15 m Crack, bulge, then up.

FA: Keith Bell & Greg Mortimer, 1981

Trad 230m, 8
21 Childhood's End

1-2: Up slab as for Falling Feathers, but belay in prominent crack.

3: Crack to steepening, then R and up steeply (poor rock) to slabby ledge.

4: Up R to ledge.

5: R up wall to base of groove. Groove to ledge.

6: Groove to roof, then down R along traverse-line. Swing up R to front of buttress. Wall to base of groove (exposed).

7: Groove.

FA: Keith Bell & Chris Blunsden, 1982

Trad 260m, 7
Warrumbungles Tonduron
V2 the unicorn chaser

Located below the summit towards southern gully. A finger crack turns into a hand crack. Mantling over to finish.

FFA: Yim, 21 Jul 2022

Boulder 4m
21 Antares Direct Start

Start 5 m L of Antares at twin grooves. Follow discontinuous R-hand groove/crack, then L to gully at top of L-hand groove. Up this to base of groove through Antares roof.

FA: Keith Bell & John Fantini, 1986

Trad 35m
Warrumbungles The Needle
21 The Kiruna Crooner

Start 40m R of Northern Lights, in middle of W Face below wide crack on R of overhanging face split by three cracks. Up R to bolt, then wall and arete to top of pillar (six bolts; small wires and cams on R side of arete at half-height and at top). Over boulder, then step across wide crack. Up to ledge, bolt belay.

FA: Andrew Penney & Carl-Joan Jagusch, 1989

Trad 35m
Warrumbungles Canyon Cliffs
21 Chi

Start: Start in alcove in middle of short wall leading to corner (past gully and broken, rocky area). Through small overhang, then up very thin crack.

FA: Greg Croft & Phil Draper, 1991

Trad 10m
Cowra Col Stinson Park Little Blob
V1/2 Little Blob

Sit start on right as for LB1.2 finishing left via LB3.3.

Boulder 2m
Cowra Col Stinson Park Razoback
V2/3 Razel Razel

Climb Razoback standing start from the ground.

Boulder 3m
V2/3 Corewell

LHV of Sit the Nice Edges (StNE) starting left hand on edge, right hand on shark tooth moving up/right.

Boulder 3m
V2/3 Vo

Start as for Nice Edges continue anticlockwise 360deg around block via Stile on KB side of boulder.

Boulder 8m
V1/2 Reverse Crumper

Start as for Nice Edges moving right to bridge onto Smokestack from steeper left arete of the bridging slab, next moving left as for Half Crumpeteer Left before bridging back over to Razoback and completing full lap around bloc.

Boulder 9m
V2 Sit the Nice Edges

Sit start to Nice Edges, quite good one move wonder, strictly no dabbing.

Boulder 2m
V2/3 Stile

Start both feet on bridging slab opposite Smokestack moving directly from the crimps of the arete, right and down into the low groove (avoiding the slab in between) before finishing up Rindless/KB. Contrived eliminate but quite good.

Boulder 3m
V1/2 Bacon Side C

Start as for Norm' moving left full 360deg around boulder clockwise.

Boulder 8m
V1/2 Bacon Side AC

Start as for Norm' moving right full 360deg around boulder anticlockwise.

Boulder 8m
V2 Rindless

Sit start as for Norm' finishing via Kevin Bacon.

Boulder 3m
V2/3 Amphibious

Direct version of Rindless sit starting matched on the crimprail, fraction more morpho than original.

Boulder 3m
V2/3 Just Bacon C

Climb Rindless past its crux before moving left full 360deg around boulder clockwise.

Boulder 8m
V2/3 Crackling AC

Climb Sit the Nice Edges past its crux before moving right full 360deg around boulder anticlockwise.

Boulder 8m
V2/3 Just Bacon AC

Climb Rindless past its crux before moving right full 360deg around boulder anticlockwise.

Boulder 8m
V2/3 Crackling C

Climb Sit the Nice Edges past its crux before moving right full 360deg around boulder clockwise.

Boulder 8m
V1/2 Nice Crumper

Start as for Nice Edges finishing as for Crumper.

Boulder 11m
V2/3 Bermuda

Start as for Sit the Nice Edges, complete a full lap around Razoback, next climb as for Crumper before completing another lap around Razoback in opposite direction to previuos.

Boulder 17m
V2/3 Bermuda Bacon

Start as for Rindless and finish as for Bermuda.

Boulder 17m
Cowra Col Stinson Park Smokestack
V2 Real Crumpeteer

Set out on Real Crumpet returning via Crumpeteer.

Boulder 18m
V2 Real Crumpeteer's Kit

Climb as for Real Crumpeteer finishing via Bar Mat.

Boulder 22m
V2/3 Tramp of the Real Crumpeteer

Climb as for Real Crumpeteer exiting via Ramp Tramp.

Boulder 21m
V2 Crepe

Linking section. Climb Crumpet of the South #2, reverse back via the entirety of Crumpeteer and back to starting position via Half Crumpeteer Right.

Boulder 14m
V2/3 Hold the Crepe

Start in centre of chimney moving East to finish as for Crepe.

Boulder 16m
V1/2 Crumpet to Crumpet 2

Climb as for Crumpet of the South 2 pausing for three at the arete then reverse back via Southern Crumpet 2.

Boulder 6m
V1/2 CWEL

Start on outer aspect West chimney move East to finish via CEL.

Boulder 5m
V1/2 Sit the Southern Crumpet #2

From crimps/low rail, contrived.

Boulder 3m
V2 Crumpet Tree Crumpet

Complete Southern Crumpet #2 twice linked via the lap of Crumpet of the South.

Boulder 9m
V2/3 Crumpet Tree Crumpet Sit

From crimps/low rail.

Boulder 9m
V2 Sit the Crumpeteer

Sit start and climb Crumpeteer from crimps/low rail.

Boulder 7m
V1/2 Kit of the Crumpeteer

Start as for Crumpeteer finishing via Bar Mat.

Boulder 11m
V2/3 Crumpeteer's Trombone

Climb Sit the Crumpeteer and finish via The Real Crumpeteer (no picnics on shelf, plenty of rests elsewhere!)

Boulder 21m
V1/2 SC1CEL

Start as for Souther Crumpet #1 finishing via CEL.

Boulder 7m
V1/2 SC2CER

Start as for Southern Crumpet #2 finishing via CER.

Boulder 7m
V2 SC2CEL

Start as for Southern Crumpet #2 finishing via CEL.

Boulder 7m
V1/2 SC1CEW

Start as for Southern Crumpet #1 finishing via CEW.

Boulder 11m
V2 SC2CEW

Start as for Southern Crumpet #2 finishing via CEW.

Boulder 11m
V2 Attack of the Field Mouse

Climbs as for SC1CEW eliminating the semi-detached block on the left.

Boulder 11m
V2/3 Attack of the Field Mouse 2

Start as for Southern Crumpet #2 finishing as for Attack of the Field Mouse.

Boulder 11m
V2 Crumpeteer's Tramp

Start as for Crumpeteer and finish via Ramp Tramp.

Boulder 11m
V1/2 CWLE-PL

Establish yourself on the left wall of Western Chimney (right wall and chockstone out) moving left via nice move into Pub Lunch and up its quite mossy slab taking care with the potentially awkward landing.

Boulder 4m
V2 Worm

Eliminate problem starting as for CWI and finishing via CWLE-PL with the semi-detached block on left as you exit the chimney out.

Boulder 4m
V2/3 Big Worm

Climbs Worm starting from outer aspect of Eastern Chimney.

Boulder 8m
Cowra Col Stinson Park Porkorama
V2 Porkorama

Direct up the flake system few metres left of the scoopy slab, gets better the higher you go.

Boulder 3m
V2/3 Porkorama Sit Start

Sit start to Porkorama on the flake, large low footer far left is out.

Boulder 3m
V2/3 Porkorama LHV

Climb Porkorama starting from the low step to the left with both hands matched on the large undercling.

Boulder 3m
Cowra Col Stinson Park Tree Boulder
V1/2 Tree Arete

Down the hill through the scrub towards the walking track, climb the arete with the detached block in.

Boulder 3m
V2 Tree Arete Low

As for Tree Arete with the detached block out, strictly from the ground, no stacking.

Boulder 3m
V1/2 Forest Slab

Lovely short wall/slab right of the tree.

Boulder 3m
V2 TEA

Climb Forest Slab starting both hands matched on vertical rail, contrived.

Boulder 3m
V2/3 TEB

Climb Forest Slab starting from the lower thin diagonal crimps.

Boulder 3m
V2 TCOE

Establish yourself cleanly on the left wall of the corner before moving right to finish via Tree Corner/Offwidth.

Boulder 3m
V2/3 TCO Sit

Sit start to Tree Corner/Offwidth, superb.

Boulder 3m
V2/3 TEC

Climb Forest Slab via the vertical rail eliminating the good left crimp for hands (still in for feet). All eliminates via this finish allow one light brush (not weight) of the right wall with your back, a second dab or any weight and you must start again for the tick.

Boulder 3m
Cowra Col Stinson Park Prow Boulder
V1/2 PB3.1

Right side of prow.

Boulder 3m
Mudgee and Surounds Geology Crag Hillside Baka Boulder
V2 R The Idiot

Stand start on good crimps below ledge. Up and mantle onto ledge before second easier mantle. Sketchy landing

FA: Shane Yates, 2022

Boulder 3m
Mudgee and Surounds Geology Crag Hillside The Bowlder
V2 Pahoehoe

Sit start on jugs to the left of the Caldera, and up fun moves on jug rail. Very good

FA: Louise Howarth, 2021

Boulder 3m
Mudgee and Surounds Geology Crag Hillside Lichen Boulder
V2/3 Are you lichen at me

Cramped sit start on 2 pockets and up face to the right on good crimps and edges to crux move up top slapping to jug hole

FA: Shane Yates, 1 Mar 2022

Boulder 3m
Mudgee and Surounds Geology Crag Hillside The Atoll The Fold
V2/3 In the Fold

Crouch start on left of boulder. Traverse right and up through cool corner to mantle crux

FA: Shane Yates, 16 Feb 2022

Boulder 2m
Mudgee and Surounds Geology Crag Hillside The Atoll Flatiron
V2 Flat Iron Plate

Crouch start matched on good pocket then up slab before a pretty epic palm press to finish. Don't use arete for assistance.

Blake Muir (FA)

FA: Blake Muir, 26 Jan 2022

Boulder 5m
Mudgee and Surounds Geology Crag Plateau Listric Boulder
V2 R Listric Arete

Up the awesome arete. Graded to include the sketchy downclimb (otherwise it's V1)

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 2021

Boulder 5m
V2 Analogous Arete

Stand start left hand on bottom of runnel/jug and right hand in hole, and up the arete. Very nice moves

Lower start with left hand on sloper goes at V3, but not as nice

FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 1 Aug 2023

Boulder 3m
Mudgee and Surounds Geology Crag Plateau Microscope Boulder
V2 PPL

Stand start on crimps and up face

FA: Louise Howarth, 2021

Boulder 3m
V2 80 knots

Crack behind Microscope Boulder. Sit start, then stemming and jamming to top out left.

FA: FabianSchuelke, 3 Nov 2023

Boulder 3m
Mudgee and Surounds Geology Crag Plateau Crust Boulder
V2 Meteorite

Sit start on jugs and up good edges to easy mantle

FA: Louise Howarth, 21 Dec 2021

Boulder 3m
Mudgee and Surounds Geology Crag Plateau Pebbles Boulder
V2 Cave baby

Sit start with left hand around arete and right hand on solid edge/crimp. Up to big flake hold then straight up. Avoid the undercling at the start, it will break.

FA: FabianSchuelke, 22 Jul 2023

Boulder 3m
Mudgee and Surounds Geology Crag Cryptic Moon Boulders
V2 The Moontle

Same start as Mantle Fight but going directly up to similar mantle crux

FA: Emmanuel Madayag, 10 May 2022

Boulder 2m
V2/3 Beetle juice

Sit start up good edges

FA: Damian Brook, 2023

BoulderProject 3m

Showing all 81 routes.

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