Routes as sport in Central Coast

Tough line finishing on the lip of the first cave. Up past 3 bolts then move out left and then straight out roof.

Start up Omega Free and traverse through Ados route and fishermans basket to anchors of Tartar.

Right end of main wall, up next to crack with chockstones, trending slightly left when it gets steep at 4 th bolt. Through short roof onto head wall to DBB. Can be done direct at harder grade.

The left side of the arete to LGS. Climbs quite differently, then share final 2 bolts to anchor of MOL

Steep climbing, out the 45deg wall, short but pumpy.

Starting 2m from the left arete, out through the steep cave.

Good holds up face to a giant leap through the cave to top out.

Right hand end of main cave. Up left of the arete on the slopey holds to lower off.

Left most climb on the first cave you get to walking up the track. Lower of under small rooflet.

Start in back of cave, out lip and up on crimpers to lower off under rooflet.

Tough dyno start to a hard move to pull lip and head up crimpers to lower off.

Hex bolts to lower off outside cave.

Up the nice orange/red rock moving leftward at the 3rd bolt. Then cast off left from good block to slopey crimpers and reachy moves, to get across to 4th bolt. Trend up and left to get stood up via little footers. Great technical climbing, that is well protected.

First line of bolts inside the cave. Climb to the ledge then lean back to the small roof and follow right to anchors. Alt start also known as Spider Pig

Follows the seam near the start of the cave on slopey goodness to ledge then traverse roof to Lofty's (spider pig's) anchors.

Up slopes to undercling, then hard move to gain upper section of cave. Move left on slopey ledge to exciting sitting finish.Starts just after the first pinch gap on the low bolt. Back jump to clean.

Climb the first four bolts on fishermans basket through short roof then right to anchors.

Easily up wall to tough move below roof.

Follow (6) carrots through slopey goodness

Slopey underclinging. Same start as 'Lobster' for the first 2 bolts then trend left onto 3 bolts to finish at 'Second Cave Carrots' anchors.

Original line bolted ground up, easier line moving slightly right to lower off under roof.

Up 'Lobster', Diagonally right then through roof flake to lower off.

An epic line that follows The Red into Roast Lobster Mornay all the way to the top of the cave.

First climb outside of the cave on the right side. Long way to the first bolt, probably best to stick-clip

Second climb out from the cave on the right side. 3 bolts to double rings at the top

At low flake. Move from low flake to slightly wet dominant pocket (I've heard people describe their wives this way!). Easily down climbed to clean. 3 BRs.

On left side of arete. Stem up the dihedral to start then follow arete to top. 4 BRs to DRB lower off.

4m right of arete. Straight up. A little runout.

Obvious line up middle of left wall to DRB. Thin start but getting easier with height. 5 BRs.

2m right of S. Up. Paul Rivere's abandoned project.

2m left of M. Up passing 4 BRs. A #3.5 friend keeps the rope out of the way to start.

2m right of WIJALB at huge pocket. 1. Even looks like a great route! 6 BRs.

Start as for SS. Nice moves make a classic face climb at the grade. 6 BRs.

2m right of SS/P. Around small bulge and then straight up easy ground to DRB lower offs. Well protected with 5 BRs, although 2nd clip can be a bit stressful.

4m right of O. They needed a lot of cleaning to unearth this one. Up through suspect rock passing 5 BRs (2012 - this route looks clean and appealing). Single carrot for anchor.

4m right of CA. Up to the left, behind tree. 4 BRs.

Up SB then veer right, the back left to rejoin SB to finish. 4 BRs.

Mother's Buttress area is to the south of the main descent gully.

The arete at the very base of the gully. Straight up on jugs.

WARNING: This climb has an overgrown/invisible carrot DBB at the top. You can risk losing gear and/or getting stuck.

To finish you can either:

• Climb out and over the roof of the cave and walk off (this is the safest option; anchor yourself to tree and bring second up to clean the route).
• From the cave, walk down the ramp of Mother's Choice (not recommended).
• Double BB's in the floor of the cave. You can either rap off a tree and into the cave at the end of your session to clean anchors, or if you need to abandon route and grab gear later.

3m left of TLG. Up nice slab. 3 BRs to double BB. This line was drilled minimally by Grant Severn immediately before the appearance of the final line.

1.5 left of WNW. Veer left then straight up. A little over protected with 7 BRs. This climb seems to have been retro-bolted with the appearance of several very large ring bolts. The original bolts have not been removed.

On small boulder in centre of wall. Up centre of wall, fingery holds with a few good jugs lower down. 3 BRs to double BB.

At right end of Stuff Wall. Up through chossy cave then veer left.

3m right of F. Hard start then eases off. 2 BRs to double BB.

6m right of G. Up easy slab. 2BRs to double BB.

Slabby blunt arete. Nice little climb. 2 BRs to single RB.

2m right of I. Nice thin slab then over bulge. 2 BRs to shared single RB with 'I'.

3m right of J. Another a little gem! Thin slab then over bulge. 3 BRs to single RB.

2m right of K. Dirty slab. 2 BRs to shared single RB with 'K'.

Start as for SM. Straight up left side of obvious large bulging block. 3 RBs (last needs long runner) to double BB.

At obvious tree stump. Centre line up block and over bulges. Shares bolts with M

Right line on block. Start up chossy undercut (take care) to first high clip, then up over bulges. Watch the tree behind you. 2 BRs and 1 RB.

2m right of TLG. Up thin wall. 4 BRs. DBB .

20m right of 'O'. 2 BRs and 1 RB.

4m left of V. Juggy. Up wall and slab to finish. Traverse right 3m to DRB lower offs as for V.

Right of the obvious, wide, overhanging chimney. Up steep wall and overhanging chimney. Recently retrobolted with 3 large RBs & double BB

20m left of Sweet Mamma. Up right side of blunt arete passing 2 BRs and 1 RB. Take care with opening gate on second runner.

3m left of W. Straight up wall and slab above, traverse right to belay as for V / W. 3 BRs.

Down left below blunt arete. Up around bulge and up final dirty ramp / slab. 3 RBs to double BB.

Just left at the top of the hill. 3 RB to Double RB lower-off. Caution: One of the lower off RB's is only half in the rock

Up the top of the hill and about 20m to the right

1m right of DDC

1m right of CH

Through the overhang on the left and up the face. Single ring as anchor or top out and walk back down

Pass the obvious crack and follow the rings to the roof and out up the arete

Left most climb on the wall. Pass the flake clipping carrots and one ring

Through the rings passing right of the 'window'. Apparently a hold has broken around the 3 rd bolt in 2012 making this a little harder and landing the victim with a T 10 #

Line of carrots to the right of Mr. Window

Right most climb on the wall. Through the rings then head right at the top to join the anchors for Master Window

First carrot climb on the left.

2m Right of Daves Dinner

2m right again. Up through the carrots onto the slab and keep going.

2m right. Up the orange streak on carrots

Last line on the slabs before the arete. Arete is not in.

Stay on the vertical face for the grade, easier if mantled onto the slab

Carrot bolts

Step down off platform, 8 m right of DCG, to the right of a white roof, and up wall minding the sundews.

Up 2m R of Mr Creosote on low arête and then through small roof and head wall to anchors back from edge on boulder. Need to abseil off to clean. Alternatively use DBB on route to right.

Start where there is a step up in the cliff through overlap. Go direct ( snakes inhabit pockets to left) through roof then traverse left to quick links.

Slab to the right of green slugs. Finish on anchors of Mr Creosote.

The main arete you come to from the walking trail. P1 20 m Up the slab/arete to chains with disabled quick link. Leave fixed black locking carabiner. P2, contine up through the small roof to top out, anchors back a few metres from edge.

Starting in the corner left of Green slugs. Up wall to lower off under roof. P2, continue up wall to the right to top out.

The route left of the corner chimney. Hard start to move right up scoops to ledge then off ledge to anchors. Be wary of wasps that sometimes nest in the scoops. Monty can be top roped from the anchors if you don't have trad gear.usually dry in rain.

The black slab right of Snake Eyes. Often wet. Careful of runouts.

Start as for 97% Mitch Free, but head out the roof through the mono pocket, then countine up the arching overhanging crack to lower off 97%.

Climbs the face just right of the steep wall. Up slab trending right at halfway then delicatly up the steepening wall to top.

The right side of the steep wall. Up face/slab past 2 bolts to slopey moves to get onto head wall.

Climb 97% mitch free, but move left to the small cave on the steep wall. Head straight up from here to lower offs at very top!

Start up meaning of Liff, then continue out roof past 2 more bolts to top out. Back jump to clean.

Weird and wandery (with some interesting rope-management challenges) but tackles some nutty terrain on the best rock here.

Start as for Rehabilitation, but instead truck left for days to a cave-rest. Then switch gears and throw yourself at the power-endurance headwall, moving left at the last bolt to climb the arete on its right side to gain the anchors.

The first route you come to after the walk down. Tough boulder problem after second bolt.

The steep wall on rings. Original route on the wall.