Routes in Bombo Quarry for selected grade

Named after a comically named old car tyre found at the base of the crag. "Double Happy" is a Chinese knockoff tyre that is the antithesis of how one would feel if these puppies were all that lay between you and the nearest tree.

NB: Can be accessed by rap in off trees at the top.

The stonking line up an appealing little buttress ( a rare thing here amongst the more common savage corner lines at Bombo).

Up the moderate shared start with Double Happy (left), with good small cams and options for small wires to a bolt.

At mid-height, continue directly up past two U's with techo double arete moves and a desperate finale.

Open V corner in the main northern Quarry. Over near the right side just to the right of the swampy section. Can be identified by the following pointers; Row of small dyna bolts up the right wall. Once used for Yosemite aid training by Reg, now rusted to blobs. Lower offs at the top, again by Reg. Top is clear of overburden debris. White painted square at bottom of climb and initials. First climbed as an aid route by Bill James this open book corner was later climbed in the typical siege ethic of the day. Hard stemming and finger locking with fiddly but good gear all the way up. Many falls were taken some with a loop of slack in hand while clipping. Expect a battle as Ferret was a crack master & The Man of Steel was the most powerful being to have ever graced the local cliffs with his presence. Will need a clean between the 37 year ascent cycle it now experiences.

A hard and varied line.

NB: Can be accessed via a rap from two star pickets in the scrub above.

Stick clip the first bolt. Intense laybacking right off the deck up a shattered face flake. Good gear but absolutely desperate to place. Take care to choose solid placements as the rock at Bombo can be friable.

Clip a second bolt at the top of the Guillotine - this is the thinnest part of the shattered flake and there's no way you'd want to tempt pulling it off with a cam behind it

Take a breather, where the flake joins the main corner crack to its left.

Desperate finger locks and bridging to the top of the pillar on great small gear to a double U bolt lower off.

Dyno variation to In Deep. From the obvious jug to top. Big and committing.

Ripped off from Muir by the blood sucking Sydney parasites when he was so close to the top that you would have cried if it was your climb. Still those parasites aren't completely to blame, as Chunder and I would have stolen it, but we had better things to do.

(1) The very thin crack in the wall to the right of HC. A fixed two R.P. can be found in the most wanted position as the last piece of pro.

Once the MEGA line of the cliff it was tried by D. Radical Thomas for the best part of a day but no progress could be made off the ground by more than a few feet. Ralph tried it after Ferret gave the line a going over with his trusty hammer and eventually succeeded before becoming benighted on the top part of the route. The last ten or so metres are slightly poxy but an easy escape can be made by cruising left after the main crack. The climb itself is a thin crack that's climbed using chimney techniques against the opposite wall, the crux is probably near the deck, there is a harder bit higher up but you feel vaguely immortal after the start but not before.

(1) The crack in the alcove to the right of SF. Up the crack escaping out left at the choss.