Showing all 42 ascents.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | ||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Finger-Ripper Boulder | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Finger-Ripper Sr. | 2m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Tough, bouldery moves on razor-sharp crystals. I couldn't link the last hard move to the easy top-out into it, though it definitely would have gone with more time (and skin). Thumb-wrap-crimp on a knife-edge crystal to start... now that's just awesome. The FA can go to someone else next year, I suppose.
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V1 | FA ★★ Finger-Ripper Jr. | 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Short, technical climbing on razor-sharp crystals. Kind of challenging and delicate.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | ||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Coffs Rocks | ||||||
V0 | FA Coff's Easy Exit | 3m | Average | |||
A few challenging moves for the grade. Okay climbing. Not as good as Coff's Roof.
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V0- | Drum Lesson | 2m | Average | |||
Down climbed to escape the boulder. Unmemorable.
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V0 | Stand & Liver | 2m | Average | |||
A few features and not too hard. Newbie friendly.
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V0 | Thorn in my Pride | 2m | Average | |||
Thinner than Stand & Liver, though no harder. Not a bad newbie boulder. Rock is a bit friable.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | ||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Godwin | ||||||
V0 | ★★ Godwin | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really short, and really sweet. Like the crux move of a 19/20 Friction slab, without the boring other bits.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | ||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Orchid | ||||||
V0- | ★ Bomber Flake | 2m | Average | |||
A bit sketchy in approach shoes, but an okay climb. The flake is totally bomber.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | ||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders No place like home | ||||||
V0 | ★★ No place like home | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. Mmmm... Blueys Crimpers. Thin top section.
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V0 | ★ Lara's route | 5m | Average | |||
Repeat. Only one difficult move surrounded by jugs. A touch of committment is required.
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V2 | ★ Midget Nightmare | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Big move, and certainly committing as falling REALLY isn't an option. Might be easier than V2, JengA... But good fun.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | ||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Hd lichen helm | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Exciting though easy. Done with 2 pads and 2 spotters. No move on this is harder than a Grade 17 friction slab (V0-?) But the highball aspect makes it feel tenuous. Definitely a worthwhile addition.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | ||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders Northern contour Frack boulder | ||||||
V1 | Frack my Crack | 5m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. Wow, the SDS variant felt really easy this time (compared to last year) with good crack technique. I actually enjoyed this. The rock at the top is friable, but the climbing is easy by then.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | ||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders Northern contour Crank Shaft Boulders | ||||||
V2 | ★ Piston Grip | 5m | ★ Good | |||
A punchy move or two, easing off at the top. Good fun.
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V1 | ★ Traverse | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Good value traverse without the strenuous start next to it.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Beulah | ||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders Northern contour Park boulder | ||||||
V2 | ★★ Walk in Park SDS | 4m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Repeat. A nice little mid-ball problem with a tough-ish start.
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V1 | ★ The Great Unscrubbed (Unnamed - Sharpie's New Route) | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Not a bad little addition, with one exciting move.
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | ||||||
Western areas Waterfall Dome Waterfall Dome | ||||||
V0 | ★★ The Never Ending Story that Never Ends... and then Ends | 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Surprisingly worthwhile, and climbs a lot better than you might think. Quite long, without being highball. Fun!
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | ||||||
Northern areas Solitary Too | ||||||
V1 | ★★ Jesus ate my butt crack | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. More afternoon bouldering. Didn't even think about the height this time. Friable rock, but fun. Make sure you start at the underclings at the left end of the flake for the full tick.
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | ||||||
Northern areas Solitary | ||||||
V0- | Way Down | 2m | Average | |||
Repeat. Afternoon bouldering at Beulah.
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | ||||||
Western areas Waterfall Dome Waterfall Boulders Saturday Boulder | ||||||
23 | ★ Pebble Surprise | 25m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Good, but more like sustained 18/19 for a friction slab (after the initial low-angle easy part). Scary because of the friable rock. Some varied moves make it worthwhile. It's a lot longer than you can see from below.
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Beulah | ||||||
Western areas Waterfall Dome Waterfall Dome | ||||||
21 | ★★ Tribute to Dangles | 27m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Another friction slab dog cleaned up. Incredibly tenuous to the second bolt (21), then sustained 18 (Tarana grading) to the top, with some wicked runouts on the way. Long, delicate, and awesome. My toes were screaming by the end of it.
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19 | ★★ Philosophers Stone | 28m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Great to get back on this one for the tick. Done as a warmup, and other than a tricky start it went pretty easily. As I said a year ago, this is good in that it's much more varied than the other slabs around it, though not ridiculously hard. The start is a tough sequence, but it's great once you crack it. Enjoy!
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Fri 29th Mar 2013 - Beulah | ||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Whale Rock | ||||||
17 | ★★ Angry Man | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Something of a two-move wonder, but they are some fun moves for this piece of rock. More sustained than Whale Ale next to it.
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17 | ★ Whale Ale | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
A one-move wonder, but still worthwhile due to the convenient location. I accidently finished up Invalid Whale last time I was here, so this time I did the route properly. I also climbed a newly bolted route left of this, which hasn't been added to TheCrag yet.
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16 | ★★ Tui | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Repeat. To think that a year ago this was my first ever Friction Slab, and I spent about an hour on it complaining about how it was waaaaay harder than 16. How times have changed. A bit of convenient fun, and a nice intro to the delicate art of Friction Slabs.
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Fri 29th Mar 2013 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Savage Amusement Buttress | ||||||
22 | ★★ Savage Amusement | 15m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Pure trad bliss, (it's amazing that this line even GOES on gear), marred only by being difficult to get off the top (especially if you want to do more climbing in the gorge). I rested on the last hard move at the top (crux) after attacking it the wrong way and pumping out. Surprisingly steep, great gear all the way, bomber rock, classy movement. Would've loved another shot for the tick, but it was just too hard to get back to the base of the climb with the time we had left.
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Fri 29th Mar 2013 - Upper Gara Gorge | ||||||
Central climbing areas Illusion Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★ Heavy Metal - Direct Start | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
A bit contrived, but it's amazing how much of a difference climbing a metre right of the original line makes. Took me a bit to figure out the tricky start, but then it flowed nicely. Perhaps better than Heavy Metal (original version). Don't fall clipping the 2nd bolt.
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19 | ★★ Heavy Metal | 18m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Short but interesting, and not too hard for the grade. Worthwhile.
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Sun 8th Apr 2012 - Beulah | ||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders No place like home | ||||||
V0 | ★★ No place like home | 5m | ★ Good | |||
So much like the Blueys that it brings a tear to my eye.
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V0 | ★ Lara's route | 5m | Average | |||
Not bad.
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Sun 8th Apr 2012 - Beulah | ||||||
Eastern areas Swamp Boulders Swamp Thing | ||||||
V3 | ★★★ Swamp Thing | 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Bloody awesome. Not so much a highball boulder route, as a climbing route with no rope. A definite must do!
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Sat 7th Apr 2012 - Beulah | ||||||
Western areas Waterfall Dome Waterfall Dome | ||||||
19 | ★★ Philosophers Stone | 28m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
More features and diverse climbing than the other slabs nearby. Hard off the starting boulder, followed by cool mind-boggling moves, then a hair-raising traverse onto a JUG! Don't get suckered into climbing too high before the traverse, or you'll be unable to climb out of the position like I was!
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21 | ★★ Tribute to Dangles | 27m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Hard, but awesome. Clean to third bolt, broke a hold and cheese grated down the rock. Then up to clipping fifth bolt before bailing. Challenging and mind blowing!
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Sat 7th Apr 2012 - Beulah | ||||||
Northern areas Solitary Too | ||||||
V1 | ★★ Jesus ate my butt crack | 3m | ★ Good | |||
Climbed it twice for a laugh. Quite fun and not too hard, but a bit dodgy on the loose rock, and SHARP!
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Sat 7th Apr 2012 - Beulah | ||||||
Eastern areas Sheep Shit Rock Mushroom Boulder | ||||||
V4 | ★ Magic Mushroom | 4m | ★ Good | |||
Fun and a bit desperate, but pretty soft for the grade.
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V2 | Mushroom | 2m | Average | |||
Not bad, not too hard.
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V1 | ★ Shroomery | 3m | Average | |||
A bit of fun.
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Fri 6th Apr 2012 - Beulah | ||||||
Eastern areas Rolled Quad Boulders Northern contour Frack boulder | ||||||
V1 | Frack my Crack | 5m | Average | |||
Not too hard, but sketchy once you're established in the crack. Worth a lap for a laugh.
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Fri 6th Apr 2012 - Beulah | ||||||
Northern areas Solitary | ||||||
V0- | Way Down | 2m | Average | |||
Not bad. Fun. Two laps.
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Fri 6th Apr 2012 - Beulah | ||||||
Northern areas Donger Boulders Whale Rock | ||||||
16 | ★★ Tui | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Easier than the routes left of it. About as thin as you can imagine for the grade, but fun and safe.
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17 | ★ Invalid Whale | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Quite a challenging move from first to second bolt. A lot of fun and mind boggling for us bluey's slab climbers.
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Showing all 42 ascents.