Routes in Northern Tablelands

Start: The best-looking line on the boulder. A jam crack, then an easy corner. A classic. Left of Expiry Date.

Jam the crack to the large ledge, then up the easy corner.

Start: 4m right of ‘Staircase Chimney’.

Up finger crack with block at half height. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if a top rope anchor is needed (take bolt plates) but quite adequate anchors can be had where the crack splits the top of the pinnacle.

Sit start on bottom right of obvious flake. Up flake then head left and up into corner. Use pocket in corner then up.

Sit start on obvious feature with jug in left hand and rail in right. Up to the horn then mantel. Walk off.

Sweet layback problem

Try it with no hands!

Start: The crack on the ledge left of faith.

Hard start, then easier jamming to top.

Start: A few metres upstream of the lookout below an obvious handjamb crack which turns into a rightwards diagonal.

Climb the handjamb crack and the rightwards diagonal which leads into a vertical crack. Up this to a stance with double hangers and rap rings.

• Take care with the moveable block at the top of the initial crack. - It seems to be locked in, but "forewarned is forearmed".

Up the wall trending right to the arête (crux) and up to lower offs. A direct crimpy variant avoids the arête at roughly the same grade.

Easy juggy layback

Sit start on obvious jug on west side of boulder. Head up then right to right facing rail and up to crimp slope top-out.

Start: 1m right of ‘Ilean’.

Up crack to top.

Start: 2m right of ‘Snakes and Ladders’.

Up thin corner crack to top.

Excellent finger crack to DBB at top of cliff. Mostly finger-sized gear, but some big cams (#4+) are essential to protect the first hard moves. http://www.flickr.com/photos/kandk/4117216050/in/photostream/

Up left on rounded rail

Underling lip and traverse

Layback the arete to the left

Start: The arete between ‘Snakes and Ladders’ and ‘Whale Oil Beef Hooked’.

Straight up the arete, avoiding the climbs on either side. 4 bolts and a selection of Friends provide the protection. #4 Friend needed near top.

Slimpers with great feet to mantle

Sit start under overhang on left side on well chalked undercling/sidepull. Go straight up on crimps to mantel top-out.

Sit down start on the rail. Easier if you start standing. Up the obvious feature. Pretty high. Wicked. One bolt at top for those who would rather try it on TR.

Start: 5m right of ‘Nightmare Crack’. Large log below start.

Fingery crack that closes near the top.

Easy mantle from Jug then up slab

Easy wide crack

Sit down start, sweet moves using only the right side of the crack and stay on the face at the top.

Start on good crimps, then tricky feet to top

Sit start, layback the thin crack on the right

Up groove from edges to slopers

The corner crack 1m left of And So It Goes. Very popular. Scramble up onto the ledge then jam to the top. Chains belay.

Start: The sharp arête between ‘Ivory Stairs’ and ‘Submission’.

Layaway up the sharp edge. 3 bolts, a number 3 friend, and wires provide the protection. There are two bolts at the top of this climb if an anchor is required, which also services climbs 16 - 20 (take bolt plates).

SDS and straight up

A useful descent route for this part of the cliff.

Start: The chimney to the left of and behind ‘Ivory Stairs’.

Up chimney.

Layback crack

the obvious finger crack that goes up then left across slab to another crack and up. Good fun.

Up bum

Obvious line up the middle of the wall

Start right hand on RH Arete then jump high to left arete then up, to blunt arete and either mantel or rock-up onto left foot.

Sit start on good edges, long reach to lip, then mantel.

Easier variation is to use large detached block for the feet at start.

Follow flake up to thin slab mantle.

SDS on finger locks then up crack

SDS the traverse left and top out. Various finishes, the longer the harder

A magnificent wall climb, an Ebor classic.

Start: 2m left of ‘Pretty Vacant’.

Straight up the wall past 3 bolt runners, 2 number 3 Friend placements, and a number 4 RP placement. Double hanger w/ rap rings awaits.

The first DWS route set in the Dragons Belly. Traverse left along wall. Finish on top of large square block.

Thin and crimpy

Start: 1m right of ‘Mischief’.

Up twin cracks to top.

Start: 2m left of ‘Milkshake’.

Up short chimney and then the corner crack. (The corner has been extensively cleaned in recent years making it substantially easier - perhaps 16?)

Start: 1m left of ‘Boulder’.

A bit of bridging leads to a textbook hand jam crack.

Stand start, delicate laybacking up the obvious feature to mantle top-out.

Traverse crack from far right until left arete.

Sit start on bottom right of obvious flake. Up flake then up avoiding the corner and use the slight arete to the right of corner.

Meagre start holds, up to an inverted rail, a bull shit crimp and then link into the standing variant.

Start in the crack on the left side of boulder with the thin little tree growing in it at half height. Climb crack not using the tree.

Start: 2m left of ‘Supermouse’.

Hand jam crack with tricky finish.

Start: The flared crack left of Hope. Bridge up the corner left of Hope, or do the jam section of Hope. Take a #4 Friend.

Up the corner 1m left of Hope, to the ledge, step up (crux) into the corner and jam to the top.

The line of fixed hangers just left of the water streak.

Mantle up the Arete

The first rule of Fight Club is: You do not talk about Fight Club.

The Evan's Stone block is split in two forming a small cavern. FC is burly offwidth roof traverse through this underground crack. Sit start at the far end on double knee bars, traverse right and finish by touching the tip of the large hanging chockstone. A wild and unique fight awaits you.

Delicate start up a rounded rail. It looks scary but gets better and easier and the fall isn't as bad as you think. V5 is for the 2 crimp moves into the rail, but if you start on the rail it's much easier.

The crack 1m left of Illusion/Going Steady. Up blocks to thin crack, up this to wide crack and top.

The juggy wall. A pleasant easy climb. Up wall, trending left to start, then back right to finish. DBB shared with JOTF

Sit start on good two hand edge with a high foot. Dyno up and left to good edge, then up into groove to top.

Up the right arete.

Sit start the crack and traverse left around bulge and finish as for the V0

Lovely hand size corner crack with a mix of laybacking and jamming to DBB on ledge.

Start: The arête right of ‘Contrivia’ and left of ‘Fear And Loathing’. “Like shimmying up a Fridge”. Up the arête past wires in the crack and two fixed hangers. Belay off double bolts at top.

Perfect letterbox start to hard crimping

Up the prominent nose, easy but exposed all the way to top. Jump off NE2

Start as for layabout and climb the nice hand crack; gear up to 2". When the hand crack ends follow right leading crack to the arête of "Going Steady" and finish up the arête past one bolt. Abseil off chain anchor.

Start: 3m left of 'Seizure’.

Up initial crack and then an awkward move to turn the overlap on its left and get established on a small slab. Finish up chimney/corner.

Nice crimps up slab left of the blunt arete, definitive V0! For bonus points try the no hands bridging hopping problem stemming between Egor and the other side of the offwidth/chimney.

Sharp crimps up arete then awkward mantle

Impossible! Mantle on large edge at head height.

Crimps up the left side of boulder.

1m right of Salubrious

Same as gordo's bloc but with direct finish

Slightly harder face climb

Layback the arete to the right

Start: The middle line with the large dog-leg flake. Scramble up onto the ledge. Originally graded 20, but was up-graded to 22 when a loose spike was removed from just below the finger crack crux.

From the ledge, step out right, then straight up over the huge flake, move right into the crack- corner, then finger-lock the bulge (crux). Chain anchor or top out.

Instant classic, not exactly Sharma but still very tasty. Sit start in the corner, up through crimpy side pulls then reach to right gaston and mantle. Eliminate the face side pulls is around V5.

Right trending seam right of Shooting Star. Along overhang past 3 bolts, then up past a 4th bolt over lip to top. DBB directly after lip.

Bring small wires to redirect the belay.

Several mantle problems

Start on good edge, up to open handed sloper, then up to tiny crimp, then sloper, high step and done.

Follow the bolts up the delicate slab. A good introduction to slabbing.

Crimps up the face.

Unique! Start sitting inside the bulb facing right, bridge out right to arete and up

Crack

Up the steppy zig zap arete

Layback up short crack

A good climb to do while you’re deciding what you really want to do.

Start: On the terrace left of ‘Epileptic Chimney’.

A few wall moves to start, then a couple of jams, and finally a mantle shelf over a tiny roof.

A single aid rest was eliminated on the second ascent by J. Lattanzio and M, Colyvan, Feb 1982.

Start: About 1m right of ‘The Removalist’.

Up thin crack and wall to a better crack above which joins up with the top part of ‘The Removalist’.

Standing start on tiny crimps and head up to small left facing corner, then top.