Routes in South Coast

No existing route description. Location unknown.

No existing route description. Location unknown.

Delicate start to underclings and up.

Last crack before right corner. Bridge corner, pull onto wall, and follow crack to top. A deliciously pumpy excursion.

Obvious left-leaning, diagonal crack to the left of Fisherman's Basket. Take big cams.

2m R of NMB up to L undercling and up.

Start 3m right of the arête, head to right up crack a few metres, trend left slinging lumpy jug. Head left to arête using 1 and 1½ cams for protection. Continue up arête.

R of Sunday Outing, up chimney to ledge and follow seam to top.

Original description: The left-hand crack of the first recessed corner. Up (ode to Bittangabee). MH: Could be same as Fish-N-Shits? Grade is too low for anything really.

Towards the left end of the face is a large, left-leaning, freestanding block. Starting to the left of Fisherman's Grief, jam the flaring crack, chimney to the top, and then scramble to the terrace. The original grade was apparently 9, updated to 12 at some point. Did it in 2021 and it is more like a 15... Perhaps the block has moved a bit?

Shallow corner (boulder pictured has since been swept away) 1m L of HH.

Start as for MND. Head straight up from lumpy jug to hidden heuco. Move up and right along thin break then up small pockets to slopey mantle top out. Serious.

First crack at left hand end, just right of cavey section. Bouldery start leads to enjoyable climbing.

The inside corner on the right-hand side of the recess, climbing the chimney behind the Guns, Germs and Steel block.

Old description: 7m left of Ticks and Maggots. MH: Left?

Directly up, balancey, with nuts to protect the initial moves. Up to the hand crack, straight up to the ledge, then the top.

Face and using L arete, 1m L of P.

Very bouldery start – landing is good. Up to thin horizontal slot, place 0.5 cam after you reach the next holds. Thin moves follow on equally thin gear, bloody brilliant.

Start up diagonal flake, step right around corner, and up crack. (Variant start for Coffin Slot).

Obvious big corner with two parallel cracks up most of the central portion.

2m L of BN. Straight up past major pocket, finding excellent slots on the way.

Start up corner, break through roof on the left, finish up crack.

Start up wide slot, and continue up crack.

P1: 18, 40m - Up thin crack a few meters right of the arête to a detached flake. Traverse right around flake and move back left above it. Head up to the base of the bottomless chimney around the corner to the belay ledge with some fixed gear

P2: 15, 50m - head right and up from ledge for 10m, tarverse 30m along orange rock. Continue 10m to top. back clean to P1 and rap off fixed gear

Up arete at start of PC. Fun arete with sensational no hands rest for those with long femurs.

Sketchy lead. No protection for 6m. Delicate, balancy, and plays with your head. Requires a good spotter. Finish up through fun overlaps.

Start in the centre of the steep undercut slab. Crank through the bulge (21) or traverse in from left (20) and follow the crack line to the top of the slab. Rap off slings.

A few moves of interest just 1m R of AoR. Pulled out the old spoogie boreal aces for this one.

Unprotected low down without side runners. An eliminate line, squeezed in and avoiding everything in the cracks to left and right. Straight up bouldery moves past the small undercling.

Has it all, gymnastic start leads to a delicate face capped with an overhanging finish. All in a short action packed 9 m.

(The 1st climb on south end of platform) Tackle roof on jugs, left of obvious corner. Then straight up the easiest line to left side of orange rock bay and top. (Step right to a variant finish, grade 18).

Start below the small, right-facing flake. Up this, pass flared horizontal (small cam), and up to ledge. Couple of runners in the back, then make the big step up and left (unprotected) and cruise to finish.

1m R of RM, another Bittangabee delight. Up the jugs.

Squeezed in 1m R of YGDB.

Up the most obvious crack line on the far right of wall.

Flake at left end. Up steep flake, finishing up slab.

Face left of major corner LoF.

Climb up the two large cracks on jugs, a single crack leads to the top. Good wires for pro.

Onto the boulder, step left onto the face and head up the left side. Step up left onto the ledge and finish up the obvious corner.

Central crack in the wall across the gap, overlooking the deep ocean gutter.

2m R of Orange Ruffy. Up to letterbox slot, then line of least resistance to top, finishing left of major capstone.

A strong trad line that looks much worse than it is. Locate rock wedged in tree about 2m back from edge. The crack is visible splitting the cliff edge. Rap from tree into small belay ledge 5m above swell. Stem up v-corner then over bulge. Easily up wide crack then launch up the sustained handcrack to top.

Start at crack line at water's edge, and finish up left facing corner on R.

Crack left of Flight 11.

Straight up obvious slopey crack left of MOL (Difficult to protect on lead) follow crack line to block at top, over block to top.

Step across the corner to the final platform. Traverse out left around the corner and along the gutter wall above the raging sea. Gear is mostly plentiful, with runouts in a couple of spots. A memorable climb best avoided in high seas!

Unbeknownst to most people, God had a seaside holiday before heading off to create Mt Arapiles. This climb is a testament to his creative abilities. The gem of Bittangabee, steep, strenuous, and sensational. 1m R of P3. Up right-leaning diagonal, straight up to finish on splitter crack on capstones.

Best trad line on the cliff. Thin seam splitting the orange and grey rock 10m around the left of Salty The Seal. You can see this route from the fishing ledges back at the tourist track. Locate the double BR bolts at the top of the route near the cliff edge. Thin crack to start leads into small left facing cornerette. Great gear and great climbing. Double BR belay.

L of WT. Delightful climbing requiring a tad of commitment. Aim for the dinner plate then finish up L facing corner and overlap.

Classic of the crag. The overhanging nature of this climb will leave a leader digging deep as you go for the top. Start on left and step onto wall over perpetual puddle, traverse right into line and follow face and flakes up to large horizontal. Move R to double threads and blast for the top.

Up onto the block and up the flake. Frequently used as a down climb to access the platform.

Prominent blank arete just R of major crack. (no pro).

Partially toproped (upper half only)

Continues up and right along the diagonal features after Orange Ruffy heads straight up.

The corner crack finishing straight up. Reach the start by funky traverse in from the right end of puddle. Lose a star if you traverse in from the left.

Undercut start a few metres left of AQPFR. Crank hard and twist lock to small mantle edge. Desperate moves to crimpy edges on back wall. Arrange cams under rooflet flake, undercling and find the hidden flake up high. Cruise to the top.

Major crack. Jump puddle to start up crack/ramp, to ledge and then up through easiest route to finish.

Starts at major arête, Traverse diagonally up and right across giant crystals to break through right side of big roof. Com- mitting finish up slabby runnels.

Up the crack in the corner, mantle then up to the top.

Flakey rock, I don't think I'd trust gear placed in it but you could try. No obvious top rope potential. Climb with care.

First climb on Buddha Wall (small sloping wall fronted by perpetual puddle). Step onto wall at Buddha's face (clay stone pocket, whose features have now washed away). Trend left to top without using the major leftmost flake.

1 metre right of AQPFR. Up flake and straight up wall.

Blank looking face just R of JS. Delicate moves to thought provoking finish.

Good line and great climbing. The easiest way up this section of wall. Start right of the overhung wall and traverse across left on amazing quartz dyke to reach small ledge. Straight up the thin crack above to large left facing corner conclusion.

Start at the large tree in the gully and go up the vegetated cracks to crack running up the centure of the butress.

it has a first pitch that is contrived and not worth doing

Let Buddha show you the way to enlightenment. From the face of Buddha, straight up.

Same start as EBs Make it EZ. Up flake and into corner.

Start 1m R of BTSS at right-leaning flakes. Energetic face climbing up to big ledge. Set a belay and look for whales blowing (also great ledge for a bivvy if you want to stay the night). Pitch 2, straight up big pockets to top. The original belay boulder has been swept away, so belayer may require waders.

Start as for Salty The Seal but go straight up to steepness (UB). Swing left and up to big undercling heuco and upwards. Big scoops and bizarre crux. Sustained. Bring some small/ medium cams and some slings for the threads above the last bolt. 4 u-bolts.

Half metre right of TMW. Tread the path with care, euphoria awaits you at the top.

Absorbing face climbing on right leaning flakes, 1m R of TSB.

Tenuous pocketed crux up blank looking corner. Almost a sport route. Start 3m right of Crystalline. Wander up the nice juggy start then enter the overhung blank corner. Quickly exit right and up pockets then step back into corner. 5 U-bolts. Fist crack size cams to finish.

Start as TRP, immediately step 1m R and delicately slab your way to nirvana, keeping out of the R crack for full value. Shy on pro.

Up edge of the thin central flake. Use 1½ and 2 cams in quartz intrusion at roof for pro. Traverse left to the arête where a hidden thread allows a good rest. Layback up the arête, gear in slots.

Up obvious thin cracks and pockets, 2m R of Zymurgy. Up tricky crack to large pocket and up. Originally graded 15.

A strong natural line straight up the guts of the main wall. 3m right of Barnacle Breath at undercut crack. Up crack to steep corner, stem this (RB) then up crack to juggy conclusion. Sin- gle U bolt lower-off. Don’t try and top out the grass up above. Bring a full rack.

Climb the prominent crack to the top. Can be turned into an epic if you mix up your left and right.

Start as TTL. Crank through roof and up slopes to pocket. A jugular popping mantle leads to a good rest. Run it out to top.

Face R of DCL. Tricky, committing start leads to easier climbing to the top. Stepping out right certainly lowers the grade.

Conditions were less than ideal on the first ascent. Starts 2m right of RS. Up delicate face to under left side of big roof, monkey out this on jugs then tough lip pull to mantle onto ledge. Stem up open corner to juggy conclusion. 4 u-bolts + medium trad.

Absorbing climbing with lovely moves and a surprise finish. Straight up faint crack to ledge.

The excellent dark and shady corner that regularly sees climbers unfamiliar with the art of bridging grovelling in the crack.

Deceptively tricky. 1m L of corner. Follow thin crack up until move right onto difficult ramp finish.

A big dark line, which tends to stay wet after heavy rain. Starts 2m right of major blank corner and 6m right of Humidifier. Up unlikely thin face seam (u-bolt) and onto ledge. Swing left over undercut and up left into lift shaft (UB). Stem up this shaft to top. Harder if you are short. Full rack required to #4 SLCD.

Obvious platform and open-book corner towards the right end of the crag. Stem on small gear, with small runout at finish. Helmets currently essential.

Committed approach, up faint crack then step right and follow weakness.

Variant of Boys Light Up. Up gymnastic start then straight up L arete only.

The far-right corner — if only it was 3x as long!

A bunch of Japanese tourists filmed the equipping of this route. The exposed rounded prow with bouldery gritstone start. Located 6m right of SSM. Edge up start (2 u-bolts) onto ledge. Up face above (UB) to committing finish move. Medi- um cams/wires required.

Short slabby climb up the large faced boulder that runs parallel to the beach and just north of Camel Rock.

Either a highball or could be led on gear, but was done ground up in approach shoes on first ascent, so not sure about placements.

2m R of Sedition. Delicately bridge through thought provoking corner up to steep top wall.

Up the small undercut crack just around arete, approx 2m to the R of Boys Light Up.

Starting as for Zymurgy, climb the direct thinner line via slots and crimps to the right of the previous line and staying right of the prominent pale disc. Finish by topping out the boulder problem off the shelf and directly above.

RP special. Daunting line with just enough (small) gear. Starts 6m right of PD, and 2m left of major blank corner. Climb up short wall to ledge. Stem up short closed corner, step right and up to big break (#5 cam). Edge up face above (RPs and tiny cams) to finally reach a good ledge and gear. Easily to top.

On the left hand wall with the obvious pockets and breaks. Straight up through these and into the high pocket using the crack to the right. Some large cams might help on the horizontal breaks along with small wires for the cracks. Can also be done as highball boulder.

Flake line just R of YC.

3 m right of NNA at obvious flakes. A tricky start then straight up flakes, great gear, great fun, very rough treatment for the uninitiated.