Routes in South Coast

Sit Start with both hands on the undercling following the fisure and then reach over to the jug just above the overhang.

Sit Start on the undercling, Pull up into the crimp and follow the fisure

Climb up the two large cracks on jugs, a single crack leads to the top. Good wires for pro.

Sit Start with both hands on the Jug, move underneath the roof towards the Flake

Pull up from sit start on holds just above the large boulder under the roof, move up to the jug rail and into the undercling above and top out

Sit start, move into the flake, manage the dino

About 2m left of the entrance space. Climb past the diagonal cracks on big jugs to top out.

3 m right of NNA at obvious flakes. A tricky start then straight up flakes, great gear, great fun, very rough treatment for the uninitiated.

Start with both hands on the Edge and then move right.

1m left of previous climb. Start with hands in the high rails, up to the bad pinch and deadpoint for the top.

The excellent dark and shady corner that regularly sees climbers unfamiliar with the art of bridging grovelling in the crack.

South around the corner from Beer Battered Rock is an obvious crack 2m from the arête. A short climb with tricky moves at 4m. Has a nice top out and good protection.

Sit Start w' hands on the pockets, pull up towards the finger pocket

3m left of the previous climb/back up the beach. Small rightwards leaning crack corner, follow up from sit start without using the large left hand ledge.

Crimps to shallow scoop at 3/4 height and then to rail at top to finish

1 metre right of AQPFR. Up flake and straight up wall.

Sit start below the end of White Whale, climb up.

On the left hand wall with the obvious pockets and breaks. Straight up through these and into the high pocket using the crack to the right. Some large cams might help on the horizontal breaks along with small wires for the cracks. Can also be done as highball boulder.

Sit start left then up arete to lip. traverse right and then up to obvious finishing jug

Sit start to pull off the pockets in the horizontal break and the sidepulls and hit the big rail and then balance up to the top of the cliff and mantle out.

Sit start and pull off the big pocket follow into the right trending crack on jugs and mantle out.

Start sitting off the jug at the bottom of the crack and gaston up the two sides.

Sit start right of Call me Ishmael, big moves up to the lip and traverse left to jugs.

Up to horn on the top of the wall

Sit start on the jug towards the left of the cave. Traverse right and up through the roof with the big undercling and finish at the jug.

Stand start with hands in large pockets, move up to juggy rails and finish

Start on the nice jug about halfway on the left side of the cave. Traverse left on some crimps to the big sandy sloper. Finish on a pretty good crimp outside the cave.

Deep jug at halfway has broken off. Adds a grade or two.

Major corner on R end of the wall.

Climb on the right side (from perspective of looking at the cave) Starts on the holds about 1.5m up and finished matched on the sloper on the roof.

Start inside the cave with hands on the grippy sloper on the back wall and feet on the back wall just below your hands. Climb across the roof, heading out right (from looking at the cave), until you reach the edge of the cave. From the edge, head up the face and over the top. Something to note, the starting hand hold and footers are the only part of the whole back wall that is in this climb. When getting near the edge of the cave it may be tempting to use the back wall that comes round, it’s not in.

Up the obvious leftwards leaning crack

Same sit start as 'The Whale In The Room', except punch out left to ledge and mantle

Move up to the left of the next little undercling roof, up to pocket and into the kings lounge rail.

Same start of "Sunbake" just with a little variation at the end, Top right.

Stand start with both hands on the edge, follow the fisure

Middle of the blank face to the left of the crack

Cross hand start from the Edge, Move along the side crack towards the main crack.

Up the most obvious crack line on the far right of wall.

The corner climb to the right of 'Pockety Pop'. Easy climbing and could be setup as a good top-rope option.

Left again of the previous climb. Easy moves up face and moving up between vertical cracks

Sit start under where Star Wars Hat starts. Follow Star Wars Hat but continue up past the sloper and to the higher rail.

Sit start and pull up the layback crack running beside the bulge and mantle out on the jugs

Left most crack on main face.

Sit start into the left leaning flake/crack and top out over the tiny overhang

Start off the horizontal slot and move around the corner to the right on the sloping crimp rail and small feet to top out.

Sit start with both hands on the Jug, Pull up and move towards the crack and then head out.

Stand Start Putting Both hands inside the crack and use your toe to push in the wee hold at the beggining of it.

The furthest most right boulder. Up the slightly overhanging prow arete from a sit start.

Start in little overhung cave closest to the water and pull up from sit start on pinches and throw to rail above.

Start at Thar She Blows and traverse left to the finish jug of The White Whale.

Up on small pockets and face holds up onto the ledge.

Obvious big corner with two parallel cracks up most of the central portion.

Mals description to go here, problem is he had 6 Beers before Midnight and can’t remember anything. Jug Haul/Crimp/Slap Dynamically/Layback/Mantle/Smear/Scum up the easy/tricky/difficult start, follow the obvious/not so obvious line/seam/slab/crack/flake of jugs/crimps/slopers/heucos to the crux. Finish as start.

The left of the two twin cracks. Delightful hand jams.

Up the stepped slab right of the central crack.

Use face and right side of crack on south facing wall.

Traverse right starting next to bush, just left of Vitamin Puffs. Follow head height horizontal crack / ledge with hands. Bridge gap (descenmt route) to Devonshire Face. Continue right until reaching bush, then top out.

Start on hold just right if the crack and straight up.

Straight up the crack and topping out over the top to the left.

Up slab between two cracks on main face.

Sit start on the big pockets, move into the pinch on the right side and up to the edge.

Sit start with both hands on the Jugs, move left to the flake and follow the crag up

Feet Only!

Start down low with hands on the sloper and move across the crimps to a pretty powerful move to the most obvious jug (careful if you don't get it right it bites!). climb finishes on edge top right.

The right of the twin cracks.

Stand start in crack, follow up and right to jug.

Climb up the second rib to the right up off the second ledge, laybacking to the top

Traverse along a section of rock next to the cave. There are some fun heel hooks and toe jams to complete the climb.

Good line and great climbing. The easiest way up this section of wall. Start right of the overhung wall and traverse across left on amazing quartz dyke to reach small ledge. Straight up the thin crack above to large left facing corner conclusion.

Sit Start with hands on the Jugs, trying to reach the big fissures on the way

Start as for Cenotaph Corner Down Under, swing out right on large jug, clip the first bolt with the hanger then straight up using the pockets someone just put there for this climb, passing two carrots to the top.

Up the line of shallow pods/pockets passing a two finger pocket en route – to the left of Johnny Shoot the Messenger Boy

Undercut start a few metres left of AQPFR. Crank hard and twist lock to small mantle edge. Desperate moves to crimpy edges on back wall. Arrange cams under rooflet flake, undercling and find the hidden flake up high. Cruise to the top.

The internal corner at the left end of the left boulder.

The best descent route for the Main Wall.

Up the arete.

Crack in the middle of the main face.

Up the small undercut crack just around arete, approx 2m to the R of Boys Light Up.

Sit start with Both hands on the Edge, legs stretched and pull up towards the big Edge

Sit Start, Both Hands on the Sloper. Pull left into the Big Jug on the left and the Top out by the slopper on the right

Sit Start with both hands on the Sloper push towards the wee Jug and up to the Undercling

Sit start with both hands on the big white Quarzo, pull up into the undercling and then top out right by the sloper. (use the little holes for the feet, makes it fun)

Hug the Boulder from the bottom Pockets, reach the Jug on a long strech move.

Sit Start: Pull up towards the pockets and mantle out

Sit start just right of arete proper, under-cling in mini cave then up arete.

Sit start, up the layback flake to the left of the crack.

The crack in the middle of the south facing wall. Dubious top-out chockstones. Take care.

Mainly an access traverse for the cooler routes at the very end.

Horizontal line out from the beach to the small platform at the end, staying low on the water line.

Good holds most of the way, with some minor challenges, particularly if you do it barefoot.

Short diagonal leading to a vertical crack. A good highball problem for those who want the added excitement. A direct start into the vertical crack awaits a first ascent.

Sit start on the huge jug under the roof. Climb up through the sharp pocket and top out.

Major trad excursion through some unlikely territory. A piece of driftwood is wedged in the horizontal halfway up this route! Starts 4m right of chimney slot, at undercut wall. Boulder through roof and then work your way up to easiest break in roof at third height. Swing left and up heucos to top. Bring cams up to #5.

Same start as EBs Make it EZ. Up flake and into corner.

Up edge of the thin central flake. Use 1½ and 2 cams in quartz intrusion at roof for pro. Traverse left to the arête where a hidden thread allows a good rest. Layback up the arête, gear in slots.

Start as TTL. Crank through roof and up slopes to pocket. A jugular popping mantle leads to a good rest. Run it out to top.

The wall a couple of metres left of Sedition

Variant of Boys Light Up. Up gymnastic start then straight up L arete only.

Start at the swing but continue straight up the arete to top out.

Start up diagonal flake, step right around corner, and up crack. (Variant start for Coffin Slot).

Straight up obvious slopey crack left of MOL (Difficult to protect on lead) follow crack line to block at top, over block to top.

Best trad line on the cliff. Thin seam splitting the orange and grey rock 10m around the left of Salty The Seal. You can see this route from the fishing ledges back at the tourist track. Locate the double BR bolts at the top of the route near the cliff edge. Thin crack to start leads into small left facing cornerette. Great gear and great climbing. Double BR belay.