Routes in South Coast for selected grade

About 2m left of the entrance space. Climb past the diagonal cracks on big jugs to top out.

P1: 18, 40m - Up thin crack a few meters right of the arête to a detached flake. Traverse right around flake and move back left above it. Head up to the base of the bottomless chimney around the corner to the belay ledge with some fixed gear

P2: 15, 50m - head right and up from ledge for 10m, tarverse 30m along orange rock. Continue 10m to top. back clean to P1 and rap off fixed gear

On the left hand wall with the obvious pockets and breaks. Straight up through these and into the high pocket using the crack to the right. Some large cams might help on the horizontal breaks along with small wires for the cracks. Can also be done as highball boulder.

A link-up of the easier part of Tennis to the Racket chains. Follow the line of least resistance away from the Tennis dihedral.

(The 1st climb on south end of platform) Tackle roof on jugs, left of obvious corner. Then straight up the easiest line to left side of orange rock bay and top. (Step right to a variant finish, grade 18).

First crack at left hand end, just right of cavey section. Bouldery start leads to enjoyable climbing.

Crack left of Flight 11.

Up the most obvious crack line on the far right of wall.

Climb up the two large cracks on jugs, a single crack leads to the top. Good wires for pro.

Up edge of the thin central flake. Use 1½ and 2 cams in quartz intrusion at roof for pro. Traverse left to the arête where a hidden thread allows a good rest. Layback up the arête, gear in slots.

Has it all, gymnastic start leads to a delicate face capped with an overhanging finish. All in a short action packed 9 m.

Up the small undercut crack just around arete, approx 2m to the R of Boys Light Up.

3 m right of NNA at obvious flakes. A tricky start then straight up flakes, great gear, great fun, very rough treatment for the uninitiated.

L of WT. Delightful climbing requiring a tad of commitment. Aim for the dinner plate then finish up L facing corner and overlap.

Classic of the crag. The overhanging nature of this climb will leave a leader digging deep as you go for the top. Start on left and step onto wall over perpetual puddle, traverse right into line and follow face and flakes up to large horizontal. Move R to double threads and blast for the top.

The corner crack finishing straight up. Reach the start by funky traverse in from the right end of puddle. Lose a star if you traverse in from the left.

Absorbing climbing with lovely moves and a surprise finish. Straight up faint crack to ledge.

Committed approach, up faint crack then step right and follow weakness.

The wall a couple of metres left of Sedition

2m R of Sedition. Delicately bridge through thought provoking corner up to steep top wall.

Boulder moves up the steep arete, 2m R of Yosemite Corner.

First climb on Brave New Wall. Flake system at left side of wall. Good value for a short route.

Main central crack up to pocket and finish.

1m R of ED. R leaning flakes to trick top out, steeper than it looks.

Face 1.5m R of SP. Pumpy face climbing to ledge, continue through double overhangs with a tricky finish.

Delicate start to underclings and up.

Up arete at start of PC. Fun arete with sensational no hands rest for those with long femurs.

1m R of RM, another Bittangabee delight. Up the jugs.

Flake at left end. Up steep flake, finishing up slab.

Start 3m right of the arête, head to right up crack a few metres, trend left slinging lumpy jug. Head left to arête using 1 and 1½ cams for protection. Continue up arête.

Prominent blank arete just R of major crack. (no pro).

Blank looking face just R of JS. Delicate moves to thought provoking finish.

Absorbing face climbing on right leaning flakes, 1m R of TSB.

Deceptively tricky. 1m L of corner. Follow thin crack up until move right onto difficult ramp finish.

Best trad line on the cliff. Thin seam splitting the orange and grey rock 10m around the left of Salty The Seal. You can see this route from the fishing ledges back at the tourist track. Locate the double BR bolts at the top of the route near the cliff edge. Thin crack to start leads into small left facing cornerette. Great gear and great climbing. Double BR belay.

Good line and great climbing. The easiest way up this section of wall. Start right of the overhung wall and traverse across left on amazing quartz dyke to reach small ledge. Straight up the thin crack above to large left facing corner conclusion.

Sustained flakes and one of the best routes here. Continuous rain showers thwarted attempts. Starts 3m right of TTL below open book corner. Stem up this (UB) to horizontal break. Lay- back up wonderful flakes to top.

Major trad excursion through some unlikely territory. A piece of driftwood is wedged in the horizontal halfway up this route! Starts 4m right of chimney slot, at undercut wall. Boulder through roof and then work your way up to easiest break in roof at third height. Swing left and up heucos to top. Bring cams up to #5.

Central crack in the wall across the gap, overlooking the deep ocean gutter.

Obvious big corner with two parallel cracks up most of the central portion.

On the large freestanding block that has broken off the main cliff line. Leftward layback up the sharp arête to flake, smearing to the top. No gear.

Start as for 'Holding Cell' but continue straight up the obvious overhanging splitter crack for some fun (if short) overhanging jams and laybacks.

Strangely satisfying.

Sit start as for Gracias, but move right, swapping to the thinner crack. Rock over the low right foot and palm-slap up the blankness to the right of the crack.