Routes in South Coast

Obvious high ball crack problem. Needs lots of pads, or top rope it. Open Project

Cool technical climbing up the face, fairly high for the last move so have a few pads! Sit start and make long moves up to the finishing ledge, then traverse easily left and down to descend.

Start inside the cave with hands on the grippy sloper on the back wall and feet on the back wall just below your hands. Climb across the roof, heading out right (from looking at the cave), until you reach the edge of the cave. From the edge, head up the face and over the top. Something to note, the starting hand hold and footers are the only part of the whole back wall that is in this climb. When getting near the edge of the cave it may be tempting to use the back wall that comes round, it’s not in.

Sit start on the jug towards the left of the cave. Traverse right and up through the roof with the big undercling and finish at the jug.

Low sit start on RHS slimper jugs (left two). Bust leftwards to pinch then up face.

Sit start on the undercling in the cave, blast out to the small pocket and top out over the highest point, using the crack for left hand

Sit start at the far back of the cave on a sidepull and undercling. Out through the crimps and straight over.

Sit Start w' hands on the pockets, pull up towards the finger pocket

Sit start on the huge jug under the roof. Climb up through the sharp pocket and top out.

Start as for Breach, then left on the main horizontal crack at head height, through the start of White Whale, hard up and left finishing at the prow on the starting arete of IPTHB. Used to be V2 but it looks like a hold or two has broken off.

Sit start on pockets a metre under jug and through the pocket maze finishing at the top of thar she blows,

South-east corner. Sit start on slopers. Wrestle the bulge and mantle. Note that only the main boulder is in (don't dab the friendly looking small boulder).

Partially toproped (upper half only)

Tenuous pocketed crux up blank looking corner. Almost a sport route. Start 3m right of Crystalline. Wander up the nice juggy start then enter the overhung blank corner. Quickly exit right and up pockets then step back into corner. 5 U-bolts. Fist crack size cams to finish.

Sit start on the obvious undercling, up to the flat jug and traverse right on crimps to a slopey top out. Side note: anything to the right of the protruding rock on the far right is out; there's a crack running down alongside it that acts as a boundary of sorts.

James McMaster

Stand start with both hands on the edge, follow the fisure

Sit start in the vague corner. Climb up and slightly right to the jug and top out.

Sit start, middle of face, straight up tallest part of face to top out. Very tall, pad it out.

Sit start left then up arete to lip. traverse right and then up to obvious finishing jug

Low sit start on RHS slimper jugs (right two). Straight up.

Start matched on big pinchy jug at right hand side of cave (as with Better Beach Bouldering, but no sit start). Move up through BBB onto top rail then traverse across to start and finish Slices of Emily.

Sit start under where Star Wars Hat starts. Follow Star Wars Hat but continue up past the sloper and to the higher rail.

Conditions were less than ideal on the first ascent. Starts 2m right of RS. Up delicate face to under left side of big roof, monkey out this on jugs then tough lip pull to mantle onto ledge. Stem up open corner to juggy conclusion. 4 u-bolts + medium trad.

Start as for Salty The Seal but go straight up to steepness (UB). Swing left and up to big undercling heuco and upwards. Big scoops and bizarre crux. Sustained. Bring some small/ medium cams and some slings for the threads above the last bolt. 4 u-bolts.

Starting as for Zymurgy, climb the direct thinner line via slots and crimps to the right of the previous line and staying right of the prominent pale disc. Finish by topping out the boulder problem off the shelf and directly above.

Start as TTL. Crank through roof and up slopes to pocket. A jugular popping mantle leads to a good rest. Run it out to top.

Variously described as "Adam's one" Jump or reach up to shallow pocket. Make your way up to the top from there. Traverse left or solo to the top of the cliff once on the ledge.

Start at the white splattered rock a few metres right of '6 beers before midnight' and traverse left for about 17m. Follow the lowest dyke for the first half, under-cling through the small overlap on the corner (crux), and stay on low holds well below the dyke for the second section, finishing at the incut corner.

Sit start with hands on either side of the deep undercling just to the left of Octopussy. Move right out wide to the finger pocket then straight up using side pulls on both sides to the top.

Sit start on the big pockets, move into the pinch on the right side and up to the edge.

Sit Start on the undercling, Pull up into the crimp and follow the fisure

Sit start, move into the flake, manage the dino

A proper DWS line over nice, deep water.

Sit start on the jug under the roof. Traverse onto the slab and climb up.

Fairly high! See the two pockets up high in the vague corner? Climb to the top via these. Start on obvious low jugs.

Sit start below the end of White Whale, climb up.

Sit start with big hold. Move up and around the bulge to glory.

Start in little overhung cave closest to the water and pull up from sit start on pinches and throw to rail above.

Start lying down and pull onto jugs. Up to lip. Traverse left along lip to arete, flop your body around the arete. Easy mantle. Can also mantle the lip at the start for an easier boulder, but the secrets of the twig will remain unknown.

Start by establishing with both hands on slopey rail jug. Note that you must establish before climbing, if you use your momentum from pulling on to do the move, then you didn’t do the boulder.

Crimps to shallow scoop at 3/4 height and then to rail at top to finish

Sit start with feet under the roof/on the back wall of the little cave. Mantle onto the slab above the cave and top out on the slab. Watch out for sharp rock in some of the holds.

Jump to start on the slicey juggy ledge about two thirds of the way along the cave lip(the lower, meaner of the two jugs). Move up then left along the crack, finishing matched in the slippery yellow section of the crack where it intersects with the vertical crack. Jump to start can be tricky depending on sand height, start further along right side cave if necessary.

Start down low with hands on the sloper and move across the crimps to a pretty powerful move to the most obvious jug (careful if you don't get it right it bites!). climb finishes on edge top right.

Right of Boys light up. Start down low left hand on left side of sloper with flat top, right hand slightly around the corner on worse sloper. Move out left and up to side pull rail, match, move left to good crimp and finish up on flat top jug. There was chalk on the holds before I got there so sorry if it was already sent.

Start on the nice jug about halfway on the left side of the cave. Traverse left on some crimps to the big sandy sloper. Finish on a pretty good crimp outside the cave.

Deep jug at halfway has broken off. Adds a grade or two.

Traverse along a section of rock next to the cave. There are some fun heel hooks and toe jams to complete the climb.

Up the south face of the Candlestick

Short, sharp, bouldery arête on the Guns, Germs and Steel block at the mouth of the dark chasm. Has two bolts and a single bolt lower-off that looks a little rusty as of 2021...

Original description: Around left from Bindun in a small dark chasm.

Around the back of the Guns, Germs and Steel block is a recessed bay with a very thin corner crack at the back left. Interesting technical moves past 3 badly rusted FHs, then easily up to rusty anchor brackets.

Sustained pod crack climbing with a bit of choss to finish. Starts 2m right of LASTE. Bouldery start to get to first UB. 3 u-bolts. Bring a standard rack to supplement bolts.

Unbeknownst to most people, God had a seaside holiday before heading off to create Mt Arapiles. This climb is a testament to his creative abilities. The gem of Bittangabee, steep, strenuous, and sensational. 1m R of P3. Up right-leaning diagonal, straight up to finish on splitter crack on capstones.

Start as for MND. Head straight up from lumpy jug to hidden heuco. Move up and right along thin break then up small pockets to slopey mantle top out. Serious.

Set an anchor 10m right of the fixed abseil point. Rap in to a small ledge just above the water. Two 0.5 cams at waist height will prevent a swim.

Directly up, balancey, with nuts to protect the initial moves. Up to the hand crack, straight up to the ledge, then the top.

Start as for Fisherman's Dunny, step left on break, then straight up the face past two carrots on thin holds to natural break, straight up to finish.

Start as for Cenotaph Corner Down Under, swing out right on large jug, clip the first bolt with the hanger then straight up using the pockets someone just put there for this climb, passing two carrots to the top.

A big dark line, which tends to stay wet after heavy rain. Starts 2m right of major blank corner and 6m right of Humidifier. Up unlikely thin face seam (u-bolt) and onto ledge. Swing left over undercut and up left into lift shaft (UB). Stem up this shaft to top. Harder if you are short. Full rack required to #4 SLCD.

A strong natural line straight up the guts of the main wall. 3m right of Barnacle Breath at undercut crack. Up crack to steep corner, stem this (RB) then up crack to juggy conclusion. Sin- gle U bolt lower-off. Don’t try and top out the grass up above. Bring a full rack.

Very bouldery start – landing is good. Up to thin horizontal slot, place 0.5 cam after you reach the next holds. Thin moves follow on equally thin gear, bloody brilliant.

1m R of D, 1m L of SP. Technical, steep, a great climb. Can be done as a solo. Shy on gear, could place a good cam up high after the difficulties. Bring a crash mat!

Right middle.

Bit more saistained and thin

Start in the centre of the steep undercut slab. Crank through the bulge (21) or traverse in from left (20) and follow the crack line to the top of the slab. Rap off slings.

Short diagonal leading to a vertical crack. A good highball problem for those who want the added excitement. A direct start into the vertical crack awaits a first ascent.

Open book corner capped by a small roof crux. Beware of the loose looking block on left.

Stand start on rail underneath small diagonal rooflet. Make your way up.

Stand start matched on the sloper with small ledge directly below for feet. Traverse left through crimps and flat jug to a big shouldery move out left, before topping out over the highest point of the boulder.

James McMaster

Start the same as The Cormorant, but instead of traversing right top out straight over the middle of the boulder.

Sit Start using the pinches underneath the boulder, Move along the crag

Sit start with both hands on the Jugs, move left to the flake and follow the crag up

Same start of "Sunbake" just with a little variation at the end, Top right.

Start with both hands on the Edge and then move right.

Sit Start with both hands on the undercling following the fisure and then reach over to the jug just above the overhang.

Pull up from sit start on holds just above the large boulder under the roof, move up to the jug rail and into the undercling above and top out

Sit Start with both hands on the Jug, move underneath the roof towards the Flake

Right hand on arete, left on in cut rail. Pull on with heel hook and move to pocket. Big move to left hand side pull, then match on top of big flake. Drop down to finish.

Sit start with both hands on the Jug, Pull up and move towards the crack and then head out.

Start at Thar She Blows and traverse left to the finish jug of The White Whale.

Sit start right of Call me Ishmael, big moves up to the lip and traverse left to jugs.

Start on the far left side of the flake and move right and up to the top.

Same sit start as 'The Whale In The Room', except punch out left to ledge and mantle

3m left of the previous climb/back up the beach. Small rightwards leaning crack corner, follow up from sit start without using the large left hand ledge.

Sit start in side pull / undercling (eastern side). Head straight up blunt arete (stay on left side of it).

Duplicate, please delete.

Start with right hand low in the crack and left in undercling below right hand. A couple of jams will get you to the pocket and continue up from there.

Up to horn on the top of the wall

Stand start with hands in large pockets, move up to juggy rails and finish

Move up to the left of the next little undercling roof, up to pocket and into the kings lounge rail.

The furthest most right boulder. Up the slightly overhanging prow arete from a sit start.

Standing start on the left side of the bulge of rock, 2 jugs to start and pull up and onto the slab to finish with a top out. Be careful as some of the rock is a little sharp, some blood was left as a sacrifice by the first ascensionists.

Climb on the right side (from perspective of looking at the cave) Starts on the holds about 1.5m up and finished matched on the sloper on the roof.

Right of the low sloping roofs, in the middle of the main face, is a sinuous, left-leaning crack which begins on a step at the base of the cliff. Jams needed. Watch out for pythons basking on the horizontal below the top!

Obvious left-leaning, diagonal crack to the left of Fisherman's Basket. Take big cams.

Leftward sloping finger crack at back-right of the embayment.

Straight up the face, starting 3 meters left of Fisherman's Dunny. Begin easily on jugs past a carrot making balancey moves to gain small pockets. Trend right towards the horizontal break, then up to good holds at 2nd carrot. Finish straight up using small wires or cams for protection.

Arête immediately to the left of Cenotaph Corner Down Under.

RP special. Daunting line with just enough (small) gear. Starts 6m right of PD, and 2m left of major blank corner. Climb up short wall to ledge. Stem up short closed corner, step right and up to big break (#5 cam). Edge up face above (RPs and tiny cams) to finally reach a good ledge and gear. Easily to top.

A bunch of Japanese tourists filmed the equipping of this route. The exposed rounded prow with bouldery gritstone start. Located 6m right of SSM. Edge up start (2 u-bolts) onto ledge. Up face above (UB) to committing finish move. Medi- um cams/wires required.

Up obvious thin cracks and pockets, 2m R of Zymurgy. Up tricky crack to large pocket and up. Originally graded 15.