Routes in North Shore

'Sugoi' into 'Logical Progression'.

Or start 'Mushi Brain' into 'Abacus' finishing high.

"9 moves all up. Hard to grade." Mushi Brain finishing up Genesis

Tom Farrell

Stand start on the undercling. Move up using the sidepulls and a lack of footholds to reach the victory jug and to top out.

Elijah Mercado

Links 'Mushi Brain' into start of 'Abacus'.

Sugoi is a word that's typically used when you're left awestruck out of excitement or feel overwhelmed. It can also be used to express that something is terrible or dreadful.

Extension to 'Abacus'. Need some spotters and mats for this one, its high and dynamic moves above your spotters heads.

Start 'Abacus' finish 'Genesis'.

Start on the big flake jug and make a very tough move up using the tiny crimp. A heel thrown onto the rail of 'Sushi Train' appears to help.

Elijah Mercado

Sketchy all points off dyno up high.

"Grimacing" into Agent Orange.

Stretch finishing up For Sissies. No pads to cheat the start.

Same handholds as for Bowels of the Devil, but starting with a high right toehook. No dynamic movements or pads to cheat the start, just strict flexibility. Hard to grade.

Start matched on the sidepull, make a hard move right into the start position of Bowels. Was thought to be the actual start of Bowels.

Starts as a sit/crouch start on the chalk at the far right of the crumbly cave and then up the “v3” and into the roof to finish on the last big jug (same finish as leviticus)

Start on the undercling just right of Sushi Train's start and power up using the obvious poor pinch.

Chris Webb Parsons

Travis B

Sam Healy

Link 'Mushi Brain' into the last two moves of 'Abacus'

R. Hofmann

Start as for nasty and go directly upwards finishing last moves as for RBTL.

Tom Farrell

Start as for Silent Bob Low, and climb directly out via the micro crimp, skipping the wet rail from Silent Bob. Once on the soccer ball sloper after the lip go directly to the jug. The other holds further right on the ledge are out.

Man of Steel without the dyno. Aurel Gelot

Grimacing into Anthrax

Start at the back wall just left of the smiley face (in a small hueco), head straight out the to the infamous slopers and a thin break, finishing over left on a jug.

Great moves linking in to Voodoo Child.

Start up Spooged, reverse Foam, reverse Mr Smiley and finish up Bill Smith.

Start Redetonated, reverse Mr Smiley and finish up Bill Smith.

Travis B

Dylan Soin

Start up Bowels of the Devil, finishing up The Solution of 1993.

Do the first move of Abacus, then traverse backwards through Mushi Brain to finish up Nasty. No traversing straight into the Sushi Train start holds.

Standing Start

Start as for Nasty and make big moves out rightwards, finishing up 'Sushi Train'. Pumpy.

Scoots

Mattias BM

Sage G

Michael Tonon

Direct finish of Super birdman.

Start on Elliptical jug of Blinky Bill, move directly out to the slot jug, grab any pocket and go big to the letterbox jug of Mr Smiley to finish as for Mr Smiley. Never done a move quite like this outside so hard to grade. Could be harder?

Silent Bob into High Up Over Yonder.

Sit start on the shield under the roof. Move up to the breaks then big move to the top.

Mattias Braach Maksvytis

Starts underneath the roof on the shield as for Flabulous. Gain the break, trav left to the start of Strangest Things and go directly up. Might be easier for people shorter than me but it felt pretty similar to Flabulous to me.

Start as for Shariks Roof and finish up Onramp. Going all the way of course.

Start on right hand side of The Express roof on twin 2 finger pockets & punch out left following the arete/lip all way round to mantle same as The Express.

low start just right of the arete, left hand in deep pocket and right hand on thin edge. Make a big right hand move to the side pull and continue up, top out as for 'the express'

Start left hand in corner and right on a sloper. Climb the arete to the slope at the top of it. Traverse right utilising edges, slopes and a big undercling, to a ramp. Mantle to some good holds near the break.

Damien Alexander

Tyrone Clements

Start Grimacing and finish up Voodoo Child.

Start as for Agent Orange and finish as for Anthrax

Link Primordial Soup into Voodoo Child.

mattias braach-maksvytis

Obvious dyno on the walk down wall.

Link into and finish up Buge.

Bursting campussing. Yes, thats right. No jug as for usual Bursting rules.

Climb Steve Austin then reverse Burst and finish on the jug.

Whilst made to look easy by some, this climb can be bicep destroying. Bring out your big guns.

Sit start under roof, progressing directly up through pockety edges and using the undercling with your left hand to do a powerful move directly up to rail.

Any other sequence not involving left hand on the undercling is one of the Steve Austin Variants.

Start on the ultra slopey sloper just above the lip. Move up to the next slopey rail, then left to the right-leaning slopey rail then straight up.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis Peter

Sit start to Travis starting from a matched crimpy undercling under the roof (same as for 'Re-Detonated').

Travis B.

Low start to Hands Off My Detonator.

Hands Off My Detonator. Campussing. 2 known ascents. Sharik Walker 2nd ascent.

Start from the crimpy underclings (as for 'Spooged') and link into 'Hands Off My Detonator'

Travis B

Dylan Soin

Link Bill Smith into Mr Smiley then climb up I've Got My Tie On

Start with one hand on the round blob in roof 1.5m back from jug and one hand on the jug. Smear hard and climb into Silent Bob.

Start on the big hold. Often wet.

Dylan Soin

Bowels of the Devil finishing up For Sissies. Probably where BotD should have finished.

L0, R3, L4, R5, M5

Hard press move made slightly easier by starting using small foothold high and left the start hold. Just keep reaching. Looks unfeasible but works.

Named for the people who insist that this be a separate climb from the original because it isn’t a sit start. Exactly the same as Penis Cling, just don’t sit to start. Instead start with your left on the far foot and pull on awkwardly, crossed under with your left hand, and completely locked on your right shoulder.

Same as Penis Cling, but starting with right hand on the undercling to the right of the left undercling.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Peter

Sit start on an incut RH crimp and LH slopey crimp. Go up to the break and traverse right to the big bucket jug. Head straight out the roof to the last jug via some big spans.

Start slighty right of 'Anorexic'. Move through the roof with your hands staying clear of the holds on 'Anorexic' although your feet may stray over. Keep going past the old bolt and slap up the sloping prow to finish on the the big spike. Unrepeated since a hold broke?

Start of the underclings and make some bizarre contortions (including doing a full 180 degree spin) through the roof. Probably one of the coolest and most unique problems in Sydney.

Travis B

Rob

Life Changes but starting as for Sushi Train. LC originally started as for Abacus.

A.k.a. Phlegm starting at Sushi Train.

After the crux of Sushi Train bust out right to finish up Abacus.

Stand start in high break, move right to arete and up.

Sit Start on the 2 crimps below the jug rail, climb as for 'Love and Pride' then traverse into & exit 'Lovers Tiff Left'

R. Hofmann

A.K.A. Lover's Tiff Direct. Go straight out the roof from the start jug and link into the end of Lover's Tiff. Morpho as anything. Edit: New beta seems to make this V10ish.

Mattias Braach Maksvytis

Start on the chalked up jugs, traverse left to pockets out and through the middle of roof to finish above the start.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis Aurel Gelot

Direct.

Linkup 'Upper Pipe Dreams' into 'Pipe Dreams' to the double heel, then into 'Rubble'. Described in the Sydney Bouldering Guidebook as not yet sent

A desperate intro into Devil Child. From the 2 small slopers left of the scoop, reach, reach, reach rightwards, finishing up Devil Child.

Start as for 'Devil in a Blue Dress' but do not use any of the holds left of its initial features - including big footholds. Finish out right on the jug (before Devil Child).

Starting at the most right of the big break. Traverse right along the lip, using sharp edges, slopey pinches etc. Finish at the big ledge inside the cave. Technical and quite hard. Another Sharik classic.

Start half sitting, half lying down on the obvious holds. Do a weird move to a left hand hold. Climb the roof using the the slopey rib, to a slopey lip. Traverse the lip left up the overhanging arete using a sloper. Finish on the jug in the break.

abrahamsends

Start matched on triangular edge (a), up left to three finger slope (b) then grab the top (c). DON'T jump start!

High line in the centre of the wall.

1.5m left of the smiley face are 2 undercling pockets, grab these. Make a big move out to the cool fin, then another to the big hueco and straight out.

From the big hueco head left to the next big hueco, then straight out and up to finish over the lip. Crag classic.

Start matched in the thin flaky slot 1m back from the lip, head out and rightish to some desperate slopers and finally match in the break.

Low start to Nina. Start on incut underclings.

Start with a left hand on the horn in the roof and a right hand pinching the lip above it. Keep going right.

[Eliminate] How lowball can you get? Start on the edge right of Mike's Five and climb let using some holds in the roof to finish as for Depth Charge.

Start as for Spooged and finish up Our Man From Havana.

Climb the start of 'Re-Detonated' finishing up 'Foam'.

Phillip Booth

Start as for Dentalectomy and traverse left on pinches and slopers to finish on the chin up bar.

Travis B.

Dylan Soin

Start on the pull-up jug and reverse The Problem of 1993. Once you reach the Dentalectomy holds, move up to the top of the seam (on the holds that are off for Dentalectomy) and traverse through the last 2 metres, finishing on the hold above the Dentalectomy slopers and start hold.

Dyno - Either double or one handed. From the chin up bar (9) hurl yourself to the obvious flat hold 7ft up. Get a good spot and watch the landing zone. The undercling is out.

M1, R2, L3, M3, R4, L5, M5

'Fantastic' problem. Watch that final swing. Unfortunately the second hold (R2)is often wet. Can and has been extended.

After the finish of SNC, link into Zac's Highball.

Probably impossible to repeat as LeBreton's exact and undoubtedly desperate sequence been lost into obscurity. It's known to be underclinged all the way to the top using the hardest method known to man and is said to be a Crag Classic.

Start as for Penis Cling but continue from the jug and finish 4m up on the obvious ramp.

L1, R2, L3, R4, M4. A classic two move wonder. Knock off a grade or 2 for using your heel. Has been done going straight up and not using L3. Reportedly done static by Fred Nicole at V10'ish.

🚫 Originally done as a 'no heels' problem.

Link 'Black Magic' into the finish of 'Exodus'.

Start on the juggy hold at head height, make a big move up to some crimps then push up and right to finish standing on the slab or topping out

Cheeky Traverse with a top out of La Graviere

Stand start and climb the faint arete using whatever holds you can find.

An impressive line, starting at the right hand end of this wall. Start on the big low ledge, go up to the side pull, thence the mono. The top is slopey and amazingly scary.

Steve Karma (FA)

This tall proud line is not for the faint of heart. Difficult first move on small rail and then big moves between slopey rails, to a delicate dead point to half moon scoop. From here you change gears, moving left to delicate crimping and footwork for a few committing moves before a nice top out. Good landing but bring plenty of pads, and rope. Very easy to rope but need a rope protector as the top is quite sharp.

Any version of Steve Austin that doesn’t involve left hand on the undercling as per FA sequence.