Ascents in Northern Beaches by Niko Eltarenko

Good one Niko. On my first run managed to split two of my old finger wounds wide open... Then kept trying to send this with only my index and ring finger operational.

So I am back where I was before with some progress made. Can one arm lockoff and then match inside the "Huecko" followed by very low percentile double toe hook and grab sequence. Still a little off. Need to figure out as to why it works sometimes and not others... At the end of my session discovered how some people think that this problem is soft. See V6 Aquarius, any problems/suggestions feel free to start a discussion.

So. Added this route to fix the "softness" of the V7 as experienced by some people who told me about the "alternate beta". Discovered by pure accident right at the end of my session what they meant by that. In a nutshell one can topout by simply heel hooking the lower lip and then pulling up to the topout holds. While being a hard move, this circumvents the one arm lockoff and (my) double toe hook crux moves of the V7. The route is still excellent and gets a proposed grade of V6 no F/A.

Excellent! Felt soft but I had an advantage where I could really compress inside the starting holds.

It seems that my memory is not the best when it comes to climbing. Could hardly recall any of the developed beta. But managed to tick it. Awesome!

Agh! Could not remember any of my (ex) refined beta. After finally sending the V5 only had strength for a few good attempts.

Okay; I take it back. It's as good as the V4. It's also completely different. Couldn't believe how the same holds in reverse direction could make a problem so different. Two cruxes. One at the very end. And was so close; even got the end hold but only held it with one hand. In order to finished matched had to use completely different (and insane) beta. With the way that I'm doing it I think this one is more of a V6.

Smashed the traverse on first go and made it past the sequence where you have to reposition your feet 180' completely unstuck. Something I couldn't do last time; so progress! The crux is bloody hard. Either requiring enormous amount of brute strength or ever so slightly less but a whole more acrobatical flare and commitment. Funnily enough I went for the latter approach; and was starting to get it by the end of the session with assistance. Still not sure which is the better way.

Not as good as the V4, and surprisingly more difficult. Very reachy and my nickname is the T-Rex; go figure! Should have attempted it before working the V7. Next time will be able to complete no problem!

WOW! Only a few problems here; however the quality is just phenomenal. Almost got there in the endl. Definitely within reach and in my style. One of the best problems in Sydney!

One of the most satisfying V4's around! Great Quality & Length!

Does not deserve 4 of the 3 stars it has been given. Very crimpy and desperate the entire way.

Should have 3 stars. Fantastic Problem

Nice Pockets!