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Routes as trad in North Palm Beach

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Showing all 28 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
7 Stove Leg Crack

Off-width boulder problem.

Trad 5m
8 Concise Crack

Boulder Problem.

Start: Slab, then corner-crack.

Trad 6m
17 Thirteen Hex

Strenuous. Cam anchors.

Start: Overhung corner left of 'Warp Factor Two'.

FA: Ian Strut, R. Chick & I. Strut, 1984

Trad 13m
18 Warp Factor Two

"A very enjoyable excursion indeed." Up orange wall right of "Concise Crack" to stand on two blocks wedged in recess. Crack to overhang and up.

Start: Right of CC.

FA: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1982

Trad 17m
17 Shrubberies

"Quite steep". Pass two breaks and walk 5m left to bollard.

Start: Orange wall below large overhanging off-width left of 'Oggindeli'.

FA: Craig B. Martin & R. Chick, 1984

Trad 17m
15 Oggindeli

"Veterinary delight." Up short wall past 2.5 cam to bolt belay.

Start: Short wall 4m left of TTP.

FA: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1984

Trad 6m
23 Once in a Lifetime

Well-respected problem with some thin moves near the top. Craig D. Martin took a 10m ground-fall attempting the first ascent (without BRs). Silly man! Up finger crack to small recess (1.5 cam) then up wall past (now horribly rusty) 2 BRs.

Start: On prominent arete near large boulders.

FA: Craig D. Martin, 1983

Trad 15m
18 SID's Supremacy

Overhang problem; second pitch of "Once in a Lifetime".

FA: Craig D. Martin

Trad 4m
14 Frog's Anus

"Not bad if dry." Corner crack with cam top belay.

Start: Crack in corner with large boulder at base.

FA: Craig B. Martin, Craig D. Martin & A Montgomery, 1982

Trad 10m
19 Paw Antics

"Some interesting moves-and falls, eh, Animal? Grabee rap rope burnee widdle paws."

Start: Wall left of "Frog's Anus".

  1. 12m (19) Past small break (cam) and flared crack (small wire) to BB.

FA: Paul Colyvan (Animal), 1985

Trad 12m, 2
12 Zany Wall

Fairly pleasant jaunt.

Start: 3m right of "Frog's Anus".

  1. 19m (12) Up wall to cave, over lip to ledge.

  2. 9m (12) Walk 4m right, then up corner and slab.

FA: Craig B. Martin & Craig D. Martin

Trad 19m, 2
16 Return of the Pink Sausage

Sustained corner-crack.

Start: 3m right of "Zany Wall".

FA: Craig D. Martin, Martin Jones & Craig B. Martin, 1983

Trad 19m
18 Babe

"A three-star classic: deduct two stars for the walk in." Up corner to fixed piton runner (still usable??) on left, then crank on past 2 BRs. Mantle and fall up headwall.

Start: Corner right of "Return of the Pink Sausage".

FA: Mike Meyers & Craig B. Martin, 1983

Trad 20m
9 Windward Sausage

Flared corner crack left of Roomba Revisited.

Original description "boulder problem" and "the arete to slabs" makes no sense.

Trad 10m
6 Roomba Revisited

Start: The arete to slabs. Original description "boulder problem" - no pro?

Trad 10m
16 A Clean Break

"Good, clean fun"?

  1. (5m) Rusty carrot on rather blank headwall above cracks if you dare. Stainless carrot and thread belay on top of block.

  2. Finish up "Quarto".

Start: Cracks left of 'Quarto Direct'.

FA: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1984

Mixed trad 5m, 2, 1
15 Quarto Direct

Balancy. Delicately up slab then as for 'Quarto'.

Start: 2m left of 'Quarto'

FA: Craig B. Martin & Craig D. Martin, 1982

Trad 20m, 2
10 Quarto
  1. (5m) Up slab to ledge. Stainless carrot and thread belay on top of block.

  2. (15m, grade 4) Scramble off up shallow corner above.

Start: 40m right of ZW.

FA: Craig B. Martin, 1982

Trad 20m, 2
Flared Crack and Three Veg

Brush aside dense ferns in the lower portions of the flared crack to possibly reveal some marginal large cam placement, with more chance of something better when it narrows higher up. Belay nominal to remote. A stunningly obvious natural line to those who love their flares, and veg.

TradProject 8m
13 New Moon and Eagle

Old school slab with old school pro: cams only in 10-25mm break at 4m, thereafter nothing but more easily to top. Thread and block belay.

Start: Slab 10 right of "Joker Hysterical Face" on edge of walkdown gully.

FA: Graham Dowden & Angus M, 3 Jan 2017

Trad 8m
13 PEE

Unknown route marked PEE. A short finger-crack corner, horizontal ledge, then over the roof crack to give it the grade. Thread and cam belay.

Start: Corner crack 5m left of "Roast Possum"

Trad 8m
UTB

Unknown route marked UTB. Looks like a short thin slab then either walk off left, or crank over desperate roof, with no pro to boot. Start: Base of slab 2m right of "PEE"

Trad 8m
HS

Follows the obvious stepped flake and thence unknown, although may share ground with 'Same Reality'.

Trad
8 Freck's Effort

"The chimney; a boulder problem" No pro?

Trad 10m
16 Are You Coming Up?

Fused corner with ironstone edges. Start: Just east of oblong block with Pittwater visible underneath it.

Beware selfie-destructive poseurs balancing on the belay block and beyond, and a deluge of vapid interrogation.

FA: Graham Dowden & Angus M, 30 Jul 2017

Trad 5m
14 Selfie Destructive Invective

Corner with off-width section that looks wide but doesn't need big gear. Stem or ironstone edge off both walls.

Trad 6m
15 Winding the Watch of his Wit

Start: 2m left of Weenie Wide Boyz. Wend your way up the face by the path of greatest pleasure, via pleasing jugs and solid cam holes. Avoid the death-block near the bottom, and ironstone crispies near the top.

FA: Graham Dowden & Angus M, 30 Jul 2017

Trad 7m
15 Weenie Wide Boyz

Muscle up the gritty off-width with maximal grunt, avoiding the obvious ledges.

FA: Graham Dowden & Angus M, 30 Jul 2017

Trad 7m

Showing all 28 routes.

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