Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Central Australia Western MacDonnells Glen Helen Siege Wall | |||||
8 | ★★ Birkenstock Chimney
| 30m | |||
18 | Fester and Chester Retire to the Bar
| 40m | |||
20 | (Unnamed)
| 40m | |||
Central Australia Western MacDonnells Glen Helen Minge Wall | |||||
23 | ★ The Furnace
| 27m | |||
20 | ★ Ho Chi Minge City
| 30m | |||
17 | ★ Dingo Dogs
| 20m | |||
18 | ★ Desert Storm
| 20m | |||
19 | No Whinge About the Minge
| 25m | |||
18 | A Tinge of Minge
| 25m | |||
19 | Bats Over Botswana
| 25m | |||
17 | Too Hot to Trot
| 28m | |||
15 | Yerba Doddle
| 16m | |||
20 | Push th' Little Daisies
| 16m | |||
Central Australia Western MacDonnells Glen Helen Chopper Wall | |||||
18 | Apocalypse Now
| 20m | |||
16 | ★ Blue Thunder
| 25m | |||
Central Australia Western MacDonnells Glen Helen Piss Wall | |||||
23 | Golden Shower
| 22m | |||
16 | Bridge Over Troubled Piss
| 20m | |||
21 | Don't Piss in My Waterhole
| 22m | |||
Central Australia Western MacDonnells Glen Helen Vomit Wall | |||||
14 | ★★ So Good To Be Sober
| 25m | |||
19 | ★ Confident Minty Freshness
Climbs the blank looking face about 6m left of DV that yeilds a fun line on thin holds and gear. Starts directly below huge hanging flake that leans out from the top of the wall. Straight up face on thin positive holds and cracks, trending slightly right on easier ground to finish up the face just R of flake. FA: Pat Spiers, Krish Seewraj & Jason Geres, 2002 | 25m | |||
18 - 20 | ★★★ Downwind of Vomit
A real doozy of a crux highlights this incredible splitter crack up the middle of the wall. Start in large scoop and crank through low crux before the crack relents to easier climbing. Add a grade or three if you don't know how to jam | 30m | |||
20 | ★★ Hangover
The best line on the cliff. Start in left facing corner 6 metres right of DoV. Laybacks and jams with good gear lead to interesting mantle finish (beware loose block). After this continue for another few metres before a small traverse left to ring bolts. Can be done with a single rack but an extra #3 camalot wouldn't go astray. | 20m | |||
16 | ★ Everything's Yerba, I Don't Think So...
| 30m | |||
21 | ★ Hot Wet Canadian
| 25m | |||
16 | ★★ Chunky Little Boys
| 26m | |||
17 | ★ Earthly Pleasures
| 26m | |||
17 | ★ Yerba Flake
| 30m | |||
15 | Yerba Doddle
| 16m | |||
20 | ★ Push Th' Little Daisies
| 16m | |||
14 | So Good to be Sober
| 25m | |||
21 | Hot, Wet Canadian
| 25m | |||
Central Australia Western MacDonnells Glen Helen The Organ Pipes | |||||
23 | ★ Eye in the Sky
| 18m | |||
24 | ★ Eye in the Sky (Direct)
| 18m | |||
Central Australia Western MacDonnells Karku | |||||
15 | ★ two camels
Follow the track from the camping area up the hill to the northern end of Karrku. There is a prominent roof with guano stains. Two camels is about 10m to the R of the this roof. Follow the weakness to the top. Breaking it into three pitches reduces rope drag. Descent: either walk about 400m back SW until you find a gully to scramble down or locate a tree near to the top of the route and rap off. A full 60m abseil so use double ropes. Beware of loose blocks! FA: Stewart Negus & Paul Riviere, 14 Apr 2016 | 80m, 3 | |||
Central Australia Western MacDonnells Rurdaki Little George | |||||
22 | ★ Georgeous
Thin start to overhung bulge with a hand crack and small crimps on the side. Scramble off back for descent. FA: Harley Mills, 18 Jul 2021 | 12m | |||
15 | ★★ Georgetown
On the eastern side of the gorge, halfway along the main cliff. Start at the base of the slab with a committing first move. Stick to the right of the face, up onto easier ground before protecting the slight overhang. Reach high for the jug before continuing straight up. FA: Harley Mills, Carleigh Burns & Oska, 27 Jun 2021 | 20m | |||
12 | ★ The Toilet Bowl
Follow the gorge to the end where it narrows. Climb the short splitter crack up to a large ledge (the toilet seat, don't knock the poop) and continue straight up. FA: Harley Mills, Carleigh Burns & Oska, 27 Jun 2021 | 7m | |||
Central Australia Finke River Crags Halfway Crag | |||||
16 | ★★ Blister in the Sun
A bold and balancy lead in places for the grade. Look for the obvious protectable right facing corner. A committing and gymnastic move to start on the climb proper off the 3m ledge directly under the corner and then up with another steep corner onto a ledge and up again trending right on the slab with rewarding moves to climb out. Walk off possible. FFA: Simon Duke & Sean Sullivan, 9 Dec 2017 | 19m | |||
Central Australia APY Lands Umpakata Iwara | |||||
15 | ★★ Utju Kutju
The beautiful crack straight up the cliff face. Bridge the start and watch the flakey holds down low. When you get to the number one crack- just jam it! FA: Oska, 28 Aug 2021 | 18m | |||
15 | ★★ Body Jam
Start as for Utju Kutju, but tend right using the arete and crack to the obvious stand below the roof. This is where the fun begins. Use the off width or lay-back against the roof, thin/no feet, watch for loose rock; traversing to the left. Body Jam for a rest as you round the corner and work up the edge. FA: Oska, 17 Oct 2021 | 18m | |||
17 R | ★★ Body Jam Direct Start
Commit to the start- Pull up onto the slab 2 meters right of the start for Utju Kutju. Continue up the fine slab to the stance before continuing on body Jam. Trust your feet.. maybe FA: Peter Hamnett, 30 Jun 2022 | 18m | |||
18 | Rapa Multunypa
Around behind the spear bush to the right of utju kutju and body Jam- at the mouth of the cave, stem up the step side wall and slab until you get to jugs on the steep face. Gain ledge below a precarious looking chock stone roof. Go up through roof and bulge. FA: Oska, 17 Feb | 18m | |||
17 | ★★ Airplane
Steep fractured crack up to the roof. Start 3m right of the Number 1 Crack. Fun moves to get to the top, good variation and exposed finish. FA: Oska, 29 Aug 2021 | 18m | |||
22 | ★ Newana
Surprisingly more difficult than it first appears. Up the three sectioned face 4m right of Airplane. Thoughtful slabs up to the stance below the overhang. Continue up through the challenging roof and pull up to top out/walk off. FA: Nathan Stringfellow & Oska, 17 Feb | 16m | |||
16 | Newana Alt
Start up the 3 slab sections as for Newana to the stance beneath the roof. Skirt around to the right above the spear bush, reaching over to the arête at the top of Little Kenmore. Continue up the arête to the top. FA: Oska & Nathan Stringfellow, 5 Feb 2023 | 18m | |||
Central Australia APY Lands Aeroplane Hill The Tail Fin | |||||
16 | Liopholothis
Starting from directly beneath the second pitch of the Crumbly Dumbly Tjampu traverse. Head up the easy ramp left to the second crack against the back wall. Follow the face and crack up to the right. Committing moves to move up the steep jutting crux. Watch out for a loose horn or two! Continue up as for the lasat section of Crumbly Tjampu. FA: Oska & Nathan Stringfellow, 22 Apr 2023 | 25m | |||
16 | Crumbly Dumbly Tjampu Traverse
First route on the cliff. Start at the base of the triangle block formation in about the centre of the Tail Fin cliff. (1) Head straight up the block and up towards the wide centre crack. Loose rock and scary run-outs on the first pitch, but also the best climbing on the route. Head up for 12 meters sticking right of the groove. Step around and then up onto the block below the spear-bush and crack for a good belay. (2) Traverse/walk 12m left along the ledge, down and up to the arete. (3) Continue around the corner and up 10m to belay from boulders at the top. FA: Oska, nathan stringfellow & phoebe o'meara, 18 Feb 2023 | 35m, 3 | |||
18 R | ★ Crumbly Dumbly Tjukururu
Straight up the central triangle block. Continue up keeping right of the groove to around 18m to the below the spear bush (very run out). Step around the block and continue up into the off-width crack. Some good solid crimps and footers on the right-hand side- everything on the left is a trap. FA: Oska & Nathan Stringfellow, 10 Feb | 30m | |||
14 | ★ Tahina Weet-bix
The most solid rock in the world. Trust. Route starts at the base of the longest break in the tail section (mid right, southern end of the crag). Great holds and rests using both sides of the crack and sometimes in the crack too. FA: Oska, 22 Apr 2023 | 15m | |||
16 | ★ Don't look back
Start as for Tahina Weet-bix, but using only the southern facing wall- no bridging! Stay right of the spearbush. FA: Oska, 30 Jul 2023 | 15m | |||
22 | ★★★ Where do you go now?!
Start below the crack as for Tahina Weet-bix, but head up the southern facing wall to a small finger crack. Tough, fine and technical moves following the groove and face staying left of the spear-bush. Continue straight up the face through the weakness above the spear bush ledge. Some relief in the top quarter with some juggy jugs. FA: Oska & Nathan Stringfellow, 22 Apr 2023 FA: Oska, 30 Jul 2023 | 18m | |||
16 | Goose
On the Eastern facing cliff of the Aeroplane Tail. Start at the best looking crack on the southern end bottom wall. Push and pull to a ledge then continue up the crack with some tricky balancing moves. FA: Nathan Stringfellow & Oska, 22 Apr 2023 | 10m | |||
15 | Ice Man
The second pitch of 'Top Gun Ini', but can be accessed by walking around the southern end. Flakey and scary, crack and wavy rocks about 5m right of the top of Goose. The rock quality is worse than it looks. FA: Oska & Nathan Stringfellow, 22 Apr 2023 | 10m | |||
15 | Maverick
Starts on the middle tier of the eastern cliff. Bridge up the 1m wide chimney to the top. | 15m | |||
Central Australia APY Lands Aeroplane Hill Galaxy Crag | |||||
14 | ★ An (Un)expected Journey
Following the large crack going up and left to the crease, then continue up to the right to reach the roof. Continue right and pull up to the ledge, climb up through the exposed boulders. FA: Oska & Nathan Stringfellow, 4 Feb | 25m | |||
19 | ★★ The Left Hand of Darkness
Start and the jumbled blocks beneath the thin crack in the middle of the main face, about 10m left of The 3 Body Problem. Interesting moves through the crux on the lower section of the route. It gets easier from there on if you're not gassed. Top out around the spear bush. FA: Oska, 2 Jul 2022 | 20m | |||
21 | ★★ The Three Body Problem
A number of alternative starts all leading to the pure, fist crack. 1.Tricky start off the boulder below the obvious crack. Vear left then and up to the bomber ledge hold before moving back right to the white-stained base of the fist crack. 2.Head straight up on reachy small, but good holds to the base of the fist crack. 3.Start 1.5m to the right of the bolder on some loose rocks at the base of the hand/finger crack. This crack leads up to the main fist crack, so go that way. Good rest on the slopey ledge before the jamming begins. Follow the technical and sustained fist crack up and up and up. Keep a look out for the handy arm bar rest (and sketchy flake that you are forced to trust) -- this flake fell, so now its solid jamming up and up! Enjoy. FA: Oska, 12 Jun 2022 | 20m | |||
20 | ★ Foundation (off-width)
Probably easier if you know how to climb off width. The chicken wing winder just next to Satellite Spritzes. A foundational guide to off width smushing. FA: Oska & Nathan Stringfellow, 4 Feb | 15m | |||
16 | Satellite Spritzes
Left corner crack on the trilogy slab wall. Go up the crack with a dusty jam and lay-back until it becomes less steep. Turn to face the side wall with small feet and good jug, lean out and up to the boulders above. Alternative route continues along the crack to follow the trilogy lines. FA: Nathan Stringfellow, 19 Mar 2023 | 12m | |||
Central Australia APY Lands Puli Ngintaka | |||||
19 | ★★ Kuniya's Head
Good sustained climb on the eastern side of the rockhole with thrutchy moves at the top. Easier bail out before the finale. FA: Nathan Stringfellow, 29 Oct 2023 | 20m | |||
17 | ★ Brachypoda
Start as for Desertorum but stick to the off-width/bridge crack. Skirt around to the right when you reach the roof, or add a few grades to go through the roof. FA: Oska, 29 Oct 2023 | 30m | |||
16 | ★★ Desertorum
Start in the pool at the base of the waterfall (probably dry) and head up the layered flake ramp towards the opening of the cliff. Actually pretty nice climbing with a good sense of exposure. Once you round the flake, head up to gain the second large ledge leading back to the left of the cliff. Move up the face on the right of the off-width crack. Good rock, good climbing. FA: Oska, 29 Oct 2023 | 30m |