Showing all 99 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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V13 | |||||
The Bachelor Pad | |||||
V13 | ★★★ Madball Sit-start
Sit start to Madball - FA Klem Loskot 1999. Originally graded 8a+/V12 but later upgraded to 8b/v13 by Klem. Lots of sequences now exist. | 3m | |||
V11 | |||||
The Hole | |||||
V11 | ★★★ Slime
Starts seated right of Osaki Dolphin, traverse under Scartrek over the slime to the Wormhole search via pocket, edges and underclings then end on Diplomacy jug! FA: Trent Searcy, 2023 | ||||
V11 | ★★ The Shining Burger
Links the Shining Path into the top of Filipino Furburger. Grade 30 route. FA: Trent Searcy, Feb 2017 | 9m | |||
V11 | ★ Golden Triangle
New line between French Maid and the Path finishing as for the latter. | ||||
V10/11 | |||||
The Bachelor Pad | |||||
V10/11 | ★ Twisted Fantasy
Start for twist and shout, traverse under the roof to SGF and finish for that. FA: Thananthorn Suriyasenee, 2023 | ||||
V10 | |||||
The Bachelor Pad | |||||
V10 | ★★ Butchers
Linkup of Stalker into Tao, crossing into Cocktoe through the Stalker side- pull and pinch hold. ‘Slightly harder than Tao’ according to the first ascentionist. FA: Sharik Walker. Dropped some grades from V12 due to new beta. Named for the butchering of Shariks beta on other Pad climbs. FA: Sharik Walker, 2002 | 4m | |||
V10 | ★★★ Tao
Start as for Cocktoe, then break left out near the lip via a crimp and some compression. Originally graded V12. Slightly easier than Butchers according to the FA. FA: Sharik Walker | 4m | |||
V10 | ★★★ Inflatable Bulge
Madball Stand to completion then traversing right through prominent bulge and into finish on Tao/Butchers finish jug. Originally graded 11. FA: Trevor Pearce | ||||
V10 | ★ Non-Intentional Life Form
Sit-start with right hand on small scallopy undercling (SGF low start hold) and an edgy pinch with the other. Punch up with your left to a hold on the lip then as per SGF from the undercling and then to the top. A very hard one mover. Crouch start goes about V5/6 and is worthy of your time. FA: Sharik Walker | 3m | |||
V10 | ★★ Hot Chocolate
An old local project nabbed by Klem! Sit start with left hand on the Jaques underclings. Make a move (crux) into the left sidepull above then right hand into good undercling, then into and finish as for Chocolate. AKA the sit start to Chocolate (known as the Pinch). Given 7c/V9 by Klem but upgraded by 2nd and 3rd ascentionists. FA: Klem Loskot FA: 1999 | 3m | |||
V10 | ★★★ Full Chocolate Aftertaste
Hot Chocolate into Chocolate Aftertaste, finishing on a higher jug via an exciting sidepull move. | ||||
The Hole | |||||
V10 | Feral Muffins
Start as for 'Diplomacy' then go direct through roof on pockets through the worst rock in the Hole. Ends as a boulder problem on the Dr Strike jug (the hole), but was done on a rope by Matt to that routes finish (grade 31). FA: Matt Adams, 1995 | 7m | |||
V10 | ★★★ The Shining Path
Very short power route mainly on underclings ending at the padlocked chain. Given 30 by Matt it was downgraded by Stuart Williams on the 2nd ascent to 29. Now a V10 boulder problem. FA: Matt Adams, 1993 | 7m | |||
V10 | ★★ French Maid
Boulder route just left of The Shining Path through the roof finishing at SP chain. FA: Trent Searcy | ||||
V9 | |||||
The Bachelor Pad | |||||
V9 | ★★ Cocktoe
Start left of Stalker with LH on good hold in roof and RH on low pinch. Out diagonally right via pinches and a heel, then through the ‘breadloaf’ pinch , finishing directly on the Stalker final finish hold. Was easier/better before the right hand pinch broke. FA: Sharik Walker | 3m | |||
V9 | ★★★ Madball
The Pad classic. Starts LH undercling and RH pocket (Crux) – then dyno to polished sloper – then out to jug and up. Numerous sequences all hard. Was given 7b+ by Toni but consensus is V9. FA: Toni Lamprecht, 1999 | 3m | |||
V9 | ★★ Kid Indestructible
Climb Benelli's Extension but finish up the big underclings on the far right instead of the sloper. Originally given V10 but with new beta has settled at 9. If you keep going into Inflatable Bulge you get the Thananthorn Suriyasenee One Hundred Years of Solitude linkup and V10. FA: Sharik Walker | 2m | |||
V9 | ★★★ Twist & Shout
Sitstart – then out across the bad crimpers/slopers on the lip. RH crescent sidepull, then left into undercling right into undercling paste right foot on and go to the triangle pinch out left (in traverse line) – then straight up to the sloper (via intermediate pinch) – and match. FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | 2m | |||
V9 | Sharik's Problem
Start as for Twist and Shout but head left though the obvious chalked sloper edge and undercling to the start hold of Aftertaste then up and finish on the high jug. FA: Sharik Walker | ||||
V9 | ★★ Hot Chocolate RHV
Was thought to be Non Intentional Lifeform by the FA and subsequent ascentionists. Starts immediately right of Hot Chocolate with left on the right hand hold and the right hand on a small undercling. Up into the undercling and sidepull of Hot Chocolate then as per that problem. Essentially an easier independant start. FA: Jordan Grant | 3m | |||
The Hole | |||||
V9 | ★★★ Scarfuckers into Stugang
Start as for Starfuckers but at the sloper cross under to Scartrek pocket sidepull and then up Stugang RHV to finish. Classic flow. FA: trentsearcy | ||||
The Cave Cave Bouldering | |||||
V9 | Sharik's Problem
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V8 | |||||
The Bachelor Pad | |||||
V8 | ★★ Benelli's Extension
Start as for 'Twist & Shout' but keep traversing right across slopers then up into the good undercling. Work your feet out, then head up and out (through blade jug) to the finish sloper of Twist and Shout. FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | 2m | |||
V8 | ★ Secret Gay Fantasy
Starts under main roof on reasonable undercling (RH) and poorer undercling (LH). A very powerful 5-move problem. Pop LH to intermediate ‘breadloaf’ pinch, then big move out to the pocket on the lip (LH again) – catch the breadloaf as an intermediate (RH) – then up to jug in the Aftertaste traverse line and finish as for CHinese Nuggets. V8 as a crouchstart but take 9 points if you start seated on the lower holds. FA: Luke Geelen | 3m | |||
V8 | ★ Living or Exisiting
Alternative name for SGF. Not an independent problem. Description was as for NILF. FA: Luke Geelen | 3m | |||
The Hole | |||||
V8 | ★★ UPV Direct boulder
Start as for Scartrek into Diplomacy but head right into big undercling then out to sloper and Circus Street horizontal. FA: Thomas Boehm | ||||
V8 | ★★ Ultra Pleasure Vibe Bloc
Ultra Pleasure Vibe to the Circus Street jug. | ||||
V8 | ★★ Fred's Wormhole Problem
aka the start to The Wormhole Search. Just left of Diplomacy gain reasonable sidepull (RH in Diplomacy pocket) then gaston awkward pocket to press up and left into thinner 3-finger (often wet). Lunge for the jammed block in roof, then Diplomacy jugs. | ||||
V8 | ★ Diplomacy into Scartrek
Start as for Diplomacy and head left into Scartrek to finish. FA: Sharik Walker, 2000 | ||||
V8 | ★★ Scarf**kers Inc.
Sit-start on undercling/pocket between Stugang Willich and Diplomacy (currently has a chalked S below). Head left through right-hand hold to gain a good left-hand undercling. Move up through a right-hand crimp to gain the first pocket on Scartrek with left-hand and finish as for this route. If you cross under to Scartrek pocket and finish up Stugang take 9. Three stars FA Trent Searcy 2021. FA: Seth | ||||
V8 | ★★ Scartrek Diplomacy Linkup
Start up Scartrek, then finish up Diplomacy at the shotholes. | ||||
V8 | ★★ Stugang Ext Bloc
Stugang Extension past the hard gaston move, finishing on the Circus Street jug. | ||||
V8 | ★ Filipino Path
Filipino to the 2nd good pocket, then left through sidepull to finish at the Shining Path padlocked chain. | 6m | |||
V7 | |||||
The Bachelor Pad | |||||
V7 | ★★ Toe to Toe
Climb Stalker to left hand jug, match, then out to breadloaf pinch then finish as for Cocktoe. FA: Sharik Walker | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Potato Aftertaste Low
Jacques the Potato into Chocolate Aftertaste Low. | 2m | |||
V7 | Kiss Me Where It Smells Funny
Dyno eliminate. Standing start using small LH nubbin crimp on hanging slab, and RH on adjacent sloper with thumb press. Jump for jug under roof! | 3m | |||
The Hole | |||||
V7 | ★★ Diplomacy
Standing start in the depths of the Hole under the line of pockets. Very steep pocket pulling up to the resting jug under the roof - then out left to finish at the Stugang shotholes (break). FA: Andy Beckworth, 1997 | ||||
V7 | ★ Diplomacy-UPV Bloc
Diplomacy to the big undercling, then out right to the sloper, then right a move and finish on the Circus Street heel hook horizontal. | ||||
V7 | ★★ Scartrek the Next Laceration
Dynamic boulder problem starting at the base of Stugang but heading right to the sidepull pocket. Dyno out to the 3-finger pocket in the roof, then out to the hard-to-hit slot, finishing up and right on the big jug under the main roof (Diplomacy's rest). FA: Simon Wilson, 1995 | 7m | |||
V7 | ★★ Stugang Right Hand
Previously unrecorded but done decades ago. Scartrek start to the RH sidepull pocket, then LH into a sidepull undercling, cross RH to the good edge on Stugang, then into the undercling crux of that route. Finish as for Stugang. | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Stugang Willich
Marked with STUGANG! The original boulder/route in the hole and still the best. Hard move up to LH pinch/sidepull, then slightly right into undercling and onwards. Finish at the double shotholed break (original line did not use right hand undercling at the top). FA: Stuart Williams, 1993 | 6m | |||
V6 | |||||
The Bachelor Pad | |||||
V6 | ★ Cockless
Cocktoe into Stalker then back into Cocktoe via the LH pocket (missing the breadloaf pinch). Strangely never recordered on this site. | ||||
V6 | ★ Restraining Order Special Edition
the extension to Toe to Toe finishing as for Tao/Butchers. FA: Trev; seth | ||||
V6 | ★ Restraining Order (aka Stalker Extension)
4-move extension to Stalker - finishing on Tao. FA: Trev | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ Stalker
Starts back of cave with feet on rock platform. Through ‘bunny ears’ undercling, out to large sloper hold, then out to obvious ‘shark fin’ hold on lip and up. Finish on large sloper/jug out and left past niche. | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Indestructible
The V6 stand start variant to Kid Indestructible. Start as for Benelli's stand start. | 2m | |||
V6 | ★★ Milk Chocolate
(Weaker than Hot Chocolate). A higher sitstart than Hot Chocolate. A decent sequence in its own right. Sit start with LH on Hot Chocolate sidepull and RH on its good undercling ie two moves into Hot Chocolate. Paste your feet on and punch out to the good LH sidepull pocket and top out right as for Chocolate (aka the Pinch). The wads will probably think this is a V5. FA Klem Loskot (from the true sit). | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Chocolate Aftertaste Low
Start as for Chocolate Aftertaste High but drop down to low level traverse from jugs using LH pocket/sidepull. Motor rightwards via a good open pocket and a ‘fin’ pinch, then into the original line at the 'drop down' pocket. Finish as for Chocolate Aftertaste High. FA: Luke Geelen | 2m | |||
V6 | ★★ Free Mahi Mahi Direct
Start up Fat neck then traverse righ to the sloper then right to the small undercling in the roof and up via the big LH sidepull and crimps. FA: | 3m | |||
The Hole | |||||
V6 | ★★ Clutch-Boing Link
As per name. Clutch into Boing is the Word. FA: Andy Beckworth | 4m | |||
V6 | Come Out Fighting Start
Come Out Fighting past the small two-finger pocket to the pinch then to the hold just under the main roof. | ||||
The Cave Cave Bouldering | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Ronnie's Summit Dyno
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V5 | |||||
The Bachelor Pad | |||||
V5 | ★ Meantime
Start on underclings right of SGF. Slap left to lip and decent sidepull then through with right hand to the jug start of the Aftertaste traverse. Straight up via sidepull to the top tier. A nice little independent addition to the mid grade circuit. | ||||
V5 | ★ Red Snapper
Foot eliminate. Start as for Catch Mahi, then rightwards across underclings and KMWISF start holds, into The Bone and finishing for this problem. Keep feet above the slightly off-horizontal seam at the base. | 3m | |||
The Hole | |||||
V5 | ★★ Diplomacy Start aka. The Pocket Problem
Slightly lower start than the 'Diplomacy' route - starting on the twin 'eye' pockets - then climbing into 'Diplomacy' - finishing at the big jug under the roof. It's probably wise to jump off here! FA: Matt Adams | 7m | |||
V5 | ★ Osaki Dolphin
Sit start just below Stugang on undercling and boulder slightly right. Has been linked into Stugang or Scartrek and goes at V7. FA: Andy Beckworth, 1997 | ||||
V5 | ★ Clutch
An attempt at a sloper problem in the Hole! Start matched on sloper above Boing pocket. Move left to sloper and match that. Move left again to sloper then cross under with right hand to sloper (crux) below glued jug. Match (or not) that and up easily to glued jug. FA: Andy Beckworth, 1997 | 2m | |||
V5 | ★ Boing is the Word
Sit-start with right hand in big shothole left of 'The Shining Path' and left hand in two finger pocket then make a 'La Rose' move out left (RH) to a 2/3-finger pocket then left hand to the big pinch. Up to 3/4-finger pocket (RH), then all the way to the top jug with your left. Match. 5 move classic eliminate. FA: Matt Adams | 3m | |||
The Cave Cave Bouldering | |||||
V5 | Luke's Undercling
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V5 | ★ The Weakest Link
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V4 | |||||
The Bachelor Pad | |||||
V4 | ★★ The Sharik Dyno
Starts on the finish hold of Chocolate Aftertaste traverse (jug) – then huge dyno to obvious break. How many mats have you got? FA: Sharik Walker | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Benelli's Extension stand start
Start on sloper and RH sloper/crimp at the end of the Benelli’s traverse (just under the underclings). Left foot on lip, then up into the good underclings. Out to the sharp jug, then cross into the good finish hold of Chocolate and finish matched on the big sloper. For V5 start with feet on ledge. Please be mindful of your feet as you will be standing on the handholds of the sitstart and the holds are starting to get polished. | 2m | |||
V4 | ★★ Shout
The stand start variant to Twist and Shout, starts on large underclings followed by 3 big moves, finishing on a sloper. Please be mindful of the holds you are standing on as they are the handholds for the sit start! | 2m | |||
V4 | ★ Chocolate
One of the original problems from 96. Start with LH on the SGF lip hold and a polished gaston jug right of it. Bust a move (LH) to the tufa pinch on Aftertaste Low traverse then hit the jug line of the upper traverse. FA: Andy Beckworth FA: 1996 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Chinese Nuggets (Campus)
"Chinese Nuggets" without feet. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Chocolate Aftertaste (high traverse)
Traverse high break from large chalked horizontal jug to a point where you can drop down via a good pocket/jug to the starting hold of Chinese Nuggets (monster bucket midway across). Continue though to jug at the end of the traverse line, then up to match on big sloper. FA: Andy Beckworth | 2m | |||
V4 | Jacques the Potato
Sit-start with underclings as for Hot Chocolate. Paste your feet on and crank to the pointy jug with your left, match and then more easily up to jugs on traverse line. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Fat Neck to the Bone
Same start as Fat Neck. Head R and up into underclings and side-pulls. Then continue R past the bolt via crux moves using a crimp rail to reach the finish jug of The Bone. | 3m | |||
The Hole | |||||
V4 | Pinch Punch
| 3m | |||
V4 | Swing Thing RH
Start on lower slopers just R of the jug, dyno to jug. | 2m | |||
V4 | Swing Thing LH
Dyno Problem from the starting hold of TC, to jug to the R. | 2m | |||
The Cave Cave Bouldering | |||||
V4 | The Big Dyno
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V4 | ★★★ Pinch Two Eliminate
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V4 | ★ The Thing
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V3 | |||||
The Bachelor Pad | |||||
V3 | Snowball
Starts at far right-hand end of cliff line on left side of scoop/shallow cave (questionable rock) finish up slopers on right. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ The Ballroom Slap
Stand start holding the pinch of Aftertaste Low Traverse and the finish jug of SGF. Dyno RH to a sloping jug in the top break. FA: Steve Kelly | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Faith
Crouching start under KMWISF going LH into undercling, RH into gaston press with thumb catch, then ‘faith move’ to LH nubbin crimp of KMWISF (employ a good spotter). R to big scoop jug, then dyno for big jug under roof. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Catch Mahi
Same start as Fat Neck, but directly right into large undercling, then to LH sloper and better RH sloper holds. Up and left through more underclings/sidepulls to good, round jug hold up under big roof. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ The Fish
Same start as Fat Neck. Head slightly left and up into underclings, then follow jugs (and the bolts), jumping off when you get scared. The high chalked jug is the generally accepted finishing hold. | 4m | |||
The Hole | |||||
V3 | ★ Match Maker
Start with 2 finger pockets, LH move to small ledge, then RH to 1finger pocket, match on slope ledge, jug to finish. | 2m | |||
The Cave Cave Bouldering | |||||
V3 | Peregrine Circuit
Peregrine RHV to after crux then downclimb Peregrine LHV and back to start. Slightly harder in reverse. | ||||
V3 | ★ Peregrine LH Footless
Footless to the 2nd bolt | ||||
V3 | The Iron Cross
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V3 | Crystal Undercling
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V2 | |||||
The Bachelor Pad | |||||
V2 | ★★ Aftertaste
Pull on at massive bucket halfway along traverse line (start of Chinese Nuggets). Motor right past a pinch, a pocket and some cruxier holds to reach the sharp jug at the right-hand end, then up to big sloper to finish. Can finish higher for some spicy fun and V4. FA: 1996 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Warm Up Double Dyno
double-hand dyno from the obvious jugs to the big rounded hold in the break. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Royale
Start on the big sidepull, up diagonally left through serrated edges to the horizontal break, continue up past the letterbox fininshing out right on the hanging block. Pad it up well! | 4m | |||
V2 | The Bone, Double Dyno
Match both hands in the U-shaped jug of The Bone, then launch (double-handed) diagonally leftwards for the finish of Mahi Mahi. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ The Bone
Sit start bellow and 1m R of the U-shaped jug, finish in the big jug under roof. | 3m | |||
The Cave Cave Bouldering | |||||
V2 | ★★ Standard Cave Traverse (Low)
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V1 | |||||
The Bachelor Pad | |||||
V1 | ★ One Five Nine
If you climb this with your feet on you get a great V1. Otherwise campus from the large bucket (LH) on the Aftertaste Traverse and slightly higher smaller jug (RH) to the high flat jug, then without matching go again RH to the top! 1-5-9 standard campus measurement. Hold large bucket LH and smaller slightly higher jug RH. Make a footless campus move to the high flat jug. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Chinese Nuggets RHV
Start as for CN but trend right after first two moves and end on high jug. | ||||
V1 | ★ Chinese Nuggets
Standing start. From huge jug in middle of traverse line go up and left to jug pocket, then up. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Fat Neck
Sit-start on big, flat, horizontal chalked jug. Place feet so they are off the ledge you are sitting on, then head up via a gaston pinch, a V-slot and some crimps to a jug directly above. | 3m | |||
V0 | |||||
The Bachelor Pad | |||||
V0 | ★ Buttworth
Sit-start on jug rail. Up to roof on jugs. | 3m | |||
V0 | Derf
Sit-start on chalked block. Up and slightly left to jugs at the break. | 3m | |||
V0 | The One Legged Cougar
Far left hand side of cliff. Stand-start off chalked horizontal, then up left then back right following the line of least resistance to the positive holds under the roof. | 3m | |||
The Cave Cave Bouldering | |||||
V0 | ★★ Standard Cave Traverse (High)
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V0- | |||||
The Bachelor Pad | |||||
V0- | ★ Warmup
various warm up lines and traverses throughout the pad | 3m |
Showing all 99 routes.