Nodes in The Gold Mine

This major shady cliffline is the very best of the New Nowra crags, featuring several sectors of excellent pocketed rock and more importantly height. The fine grained grey and white rock has a particular 'limestone' like texture in many places. The entire cliff faces south west and receives almost no sun - but is strangely great in the middle of winter. Summer is ok as well due to strong breezes. At 30m high the routes at the Gold Mine are some of the longest at Nowra, and many are true classics of the south coast. Bolts are plentiful - this is a sport only crag. The biggest downside is the rough road approach, the rap in access (20m from the carpark!) and the complex and hairy exit up a series of ladders, rungs and ledges. It is not suitable for kids, pets or geriatrics. The best crags are Cafe Cruiser, Fernville and Wasp in the Willows.

A long forgotten wall at the far left end of the cliff, currently very overgrown and unloved. There is potential here for a couple of new routes.

Orange face left of arête. An easy tick, check it out...

The arete. Stick clip the first bolt, then power through the bouldery start to easier climbing in a nice position.

Nice white pocketed wall which is capped by a small roof. There is potential for some classics here, as well as several easy shorter routes. There easy exit climb to get you back on the track. Probably about 250m from the car park.. Just past this is a waterfall, and then you will be at Lassiters

30 mtrs further south from Rick Rollers...Locate three trees growing clumped together rap 25 metres to the Ledge of Luxury! Bring lunch and a bean bag for the five star effect

starts on the left side of ledge going straight up to anchors. Same finish as for FTM.

Shared start with the others and then up and back left fighing the pump to a delicate crux. Once you have reached the giant pocket its smooth sailing to the top. Hand over the top to clip single bolt. Back jump to anchors below the rooflet to clean.

Same start as DD, then directly up thru the bulges with increasing pump - eases off the higher you get.

Step right off ledge, using insecure feet to gain the arete. Thin holds lead to a thank god jug and you move onto the other wall and steeply to the top

Looks amazing, is amazing !! Awesome rock. Start off the ledge as per DD, keep heading right out on the wall and follow the flake feature in ridiculous position. Following the line straight up where the black rock meets the orange rock all the way to top.

same start as for SM then breaks off to the right about half way up, following the orange flake and up through the crack along the small roof, then moving to the top trending right.

Same start as for smoking mirrors continuing the traverse along the lip of the cave out to the arette continuing up arette to finish at anchor for boab business.

Some great quality rock but some high admin access! This novelty sector features a spectacular hanging belay off a 'permaledge' - a permanent portaledge bolted to the rock. All the climbs here are magnificent quality and with the bonus exposure make for some of the best routes at The Gold Mine.

Wow. This climb rips it in the way of exciting moves, exposure, sweet location and great quality rock. Possibly worthy of 4 stars! The first half of the route shares the start of 3D Disco up to the rest. After moving onto the roof, merge off 3D Disco, traversing left through the lower flake of the roof, staying below the bolts until moving out of the roof onto the face. Traverse left along the face to the arette, following arette to the top.

Follow the juggy flake as for 3D Disco to a rest just bellow the roof. Move off through the roof, left of the major corner, following the lower flake, then moving out and up the head wall. The quality of the rock on this route is crazy cool!

Follow '3D Disco' all the way to the end of the steepness, then take left trending rings up grey face.

A killer line in an outrages position. One of the best routes at the Gold Mine. Step left with difficulty off the permaledge over the void to reach the undercling flake. Follow it to the corner then up this on massive jugs and finish up headwall. Lower-off into space and get your belayer to lasso you and haul you back in. As of 07/23 the permadraws no longer exist, though some rusted mallions are taking up space on the bolts

Great sustained climbing all the way. Follows the line you rap down to access the permaledge. Shared first bolt with High Roller then straight up (with difficulty) to roof.

Climb start for 'High Roller' clipping first 4 bolts, take a 3-4m run out traverse to the left to clip bolt just above roof on 'Crash Test Dummies'. Continuing to traverse the juggy roof merging up to anchor of '3D Disco'.

Great quality rock, with some amazing pockets down low. The right line of bolts off the permalegde, sharing the first couple of bolts with Crash Test Dummies. Might be grade 25.

Up HR via the side pull , then move right under rooflet. Tricky move passing the roof then easy wall above.

At last, an easy way off the permaledge. Traverse right to adjoining wall and continue steeply to top. Not as great a climb as the others off this ledge but good all the same

Pretty airy! Up off the ledge for one bolt then traverse right, across corner to overhung arete. Up this taking the right most line of bolts over the sucking void.

The section of impressive roofs to the left of Cafe Cruiser Wall, with thickset jungle at the base. The three routes are all long and steep.

Open project- go for it. Start as for Amazonia for 3 bolts then take the left line through the roof and out out out. Overhangs at least 8m. There is also an extension which will be longer and nails hard.

Really steep climbing on excellent rock - once you get past the first few metres. Either sketch up the brittle start or batman up to first bolt (add a star if you do this!). Hard move at first bolt involving slopers and a tricky highstep layback section. Up juggy flakes to mega roof - out this on mostly big holds and finish up killer headwall. Extended runners to avoid rope drag. Cleaning this route involves either a willing second or a combo or re-threading and back-jumping.

Ridiculous steepness. The middle corner section seeps after rain, but can be mostly avoided by stemming, Stick-clip very high ringbolt and batman up to it. Tricky move up onto slab, then easy jugs up vertical wall to right edge of massive roof. Negotiate past green slime corner, then swing left and out massive roof on amazing horns to lip. Tough move over this then up overhung grey wall for even more pump. Cleaning this route involves either a willing second or a combo or re-threading and back-jumping.

This impressive bulging white wall contains some of the best mid grade routes in the Nowra region. At 30m high, the routes here are long and sustained on excellent quality rock. Get ready to get pumped! A single set of rungs gets you up onto the start ledge of the middle routes. WARNING - a 60m rope is required!

As per Bromance, and keep moving left to obvious belay ledge. Camp out and battle the tougue and steepness on the second pitch.

Don't get offended with the name - it's a type of tree (Eucalyptus pilularis). Direct start to 'Bromance' starting about 6m left of the rungs. Stick clip first bolt and batman up so you don't get your feet wet in the muddy start (climbable in dry conditions). Bouldery on pockets then jam up the hand crack to join into 'Bromance'.

Alternatively, (for a more strenuous finish), head left and do the 2nd pitch of 'Drop Tongue'.

Up CC for a few bolts and then move left and up thru the bulges to top

Probably the best 20 in Nowra. Obvious start then up to the flake and jug your way to the top.

Off belay ledge, trend left two bolts then straight up on flakes till the over laps

The best route on this wall, and one of the best at the grade at Nowra. Long and pumpy. Off belay ledge and up unlikely white face on pockets and small flakes. Swing through bulge and pump to the top.

Off belay ledge the Right hand line of bolts nearly straight up, climbs the large flake and up thru the roof

Back down on the ground, furthest most right line of bolts up wall using underclings and small pockets, hard thru overhangs.

Fern Free variant of BP. Up BP, till it gets easy then trend left up to crimps past 3 more RB's. Finish on FS anchor.

Start 2m right of ST. Bouldery to gain the flake, then up the slabby stuff and into the steeper stuff to finish with a jug haul.

This huge cave is the most impressive bit of rock at The Goldmine. It begins with a slippery grey 'slab' for the first 10m then overhangs alarmingly through several major roof sections and caps with a section of pocketed grey headwall. All routes are long - a 30m rope is required for lowering off, and long slings are needed to stop rope drag.

The hardest route at New Nowra? Left most line directly up through the massive steepness. Scramble up shale mess to small ledge. Bouldery and unlikely start onto the white white (ignore seepy seam) - then up and out out out. Spaced bolting.

As for The Simple Life for three bolts, then right and through centre of cave. Runout and hard.

Start as for Jerkyll and Hyde but follow the scoop to join the open project. Follow this till the last bolt on the roof, then move diagonally R to join J&H again at the lip.

Split personalities. Technical slab climbing then outrageous endurance roof climbing. Starts in the middle of Monty's Cave below right facing corner and small tree stump. Up to shale band, then tricky pull into corner. Traverse rightwards across technical slab (grade 22) to right side of massive steepness. Power through initial bulge on pockets (some real, one fake) then left and out through series of rooflets all the way to the lip of the massive cave. Crank the lip and up hidden headwall above to lone U-bolt. Back jump roue to clean. Long slings on all bolts reduces rope drag considerably. Be a little careful with the honeycomb flake at the lip of the cave.

This poxy section between Rockn' Tree Cave and Fernville has a couple of questionable routes that feature seeping and creaking flakes, glue, rungs and lichen. Only for the climber who has done everything else in the region. Stars are given from the first ascentist. Be warned - it is unlikely any of these routes have had a repeat.

Climbs the left side of the obvious arete at the right end of Rockn' Tree Cave starting left of the corner to a ledge right of the chimney. Awkward start is overcome by bridging of the tree to a rest, thin face climbing on good holds leads to the arete. The start seeps badly after rain and the upper section is dirty.

Start at the tiny alcove 6m right of the left end of the grey wall. Up the steep flake system, using the staples at the start to keep your feet dry and trying to avoid the seep. Some awsome barndoor moves to gain the upper flake then steep wall to anchors.

Start in the middle of the grey wall. A bouldery sequence leads to sustained climbing which relents at half height to a pleasurable jaunt above.

Start at the right hand end of the grey wall under the arching overlap feature in between two endless seeping water streaks. Thin and technical down low, engaging (ie crumbly) climbing above.

A great section of pocketed vertical wall that is generously grid bolted. The style is more technical and sustained than powerful. Just look for the sea of ferns and the outstanding buttress of Powder Burns.

The best rock at the The Gold Mine? Up the left hand side of the wall on small perfect little holds. Thin, sustained and techo!

2m right of VTPoT. Up on little pockets. Climbs right of the last bolt....

Start as for WtBF, vere leftwards at 2nd bolt to nice flake and follow the awesome pockets.

One of the original lines at the Gold Mine. Up the pockets to lower offs under the roof.

Start up the boulder to clip first bolt then jump on wall and blast out through the roof. Back jump roof to clean. Be careful of suss flakes in roof. Originally graded 25, but most now consider it more like 23/24.

Up the fallen boulder clipping bolt on left then on wall crimping like a Banshee.

Up block in corner then straight up wall to anchors just right of roof.

Up slab then step onto ferny ledge on right. Crank up sweet (or desperate) diagonal finger crack leading rightwards.

One of the best looking lines at the crag, and a great climb! The overhung buttress on right edge of Fernville, with prominent pockets in the middle. Stick-clip first bolt.

Great rock and friendly grades with lots of bolts will ensure this area is popular with the masses. Most routes stay dry in the light rain.

The only true easy route at the Gold Mine. Start at the ledgy handcrack at left end of the wall. Jam easily up the crack and pull the scoopy bulge to the anchors.

Start 1m right of Zis is KAOS. Thin and technical climbing with a burly finish.

This one was done on the day the world was supposed to end.Start 3m left of BotB. Bulging wall which is technical and sustained.

5m left of DF

2m left of WiW thin climbing at start leads to crux with great steep moves at top.

Just left of WiW, but crosses over mid height and thru the roof and up to jugs.

Up the crack that stops at 5m, climbs the pockets and features left of crack thru the bulges. Way cool !

Rick named this climb after himself. Stand on big flake, tricky start and then nice crimping to anchors.

Choice of 2 starts, then up on nice rock.

Right of F, up the crack then into the white streak.

Start at the crack in the middle of the orange wall, and then up and thru the roof to finish on head wall.

The next crack along. Up crack and up into beaut easy rock to shared lower off with TBBC

Shares 1st bolt with BJ, then up and left on awesome pockets with an iteresting finish.

15m right of WiW near large boulder in corner.

Bordering the right side of Wasp in the Willows is this long vertical wall with a confusing array of bolts. All but one of the routes share the same start - up the thin crack. This crack tends to seep down low, and sometimes requires a batman start.

Whilst not the greatest rock quality the height, sea views and friendly jugs make for one of the best easy routes here. Layback up the right facing corner then up the sustained face above. This is a good end of day exit route if you top out.

Up 'Sandpaper Sally' for 3 bolts then, lean out left on big sidepull and up the long wall. Sustained !

Starts in the small seam and follows till it blanks out, take a rest in the cave then up the awesome long headwall.

As per SS, then step right over cave and up.

Up SS and at first bolt take the right hand line up the middle of wall.

A steep orange wall located between the two sets of rungs, above the rope handrail, on the descent. The base is usually muddy and unpleasant to belay from.

Leftward diagonal line starting a few meters before the rope handrail, finishing through a little roof. Some nice slabbing then burly moves through the roof.

Start mid way along the rope handrail. Thrugh black rock to crack and scooped bulge.

A shorter vertical wall that you pass when descending the highest set of rungs (before the highest section of the fixed ropes). The rock is a little sandy but the bolts are plentiful.

First route on the descent of the gully. Up via 3 bolts trending onto wall between 2nd and 3rd bolt. Ok just a bit gritty.

Start on ledge above upper set of rungs on the descent. Up the right facing flake.

1m left of Thin Edge of the Wedge at small corner with hand crack up left side. Up corner for four metres to ledge then up juggy face.

Nice warmup and probably the best 'easy' route at the Goldmine. Thin crack with lots of jugs on grey wall about 3m right of access rungs.