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Fernville All Sport climbing 9 routes in sector

Grade context: AU
Photos: 3
Ascents: 319

21 23 25

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Description

A great section of pocketed vertical wall that is generously grid bolted. The style is more technical and sustained than powerful. Just look for the sea of ferns and the outstanding buttress of Powder Burns.

Access issues inherited from New South Wales and ACT

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Approach

<5 min

About 100m right of Cafe Cruiser Wall and just right of the Ugly Duckling Wall. To the right of this section of cliff is a long section of ultra choss monster roofs.

Ethic inherited from Illawarra and Shoalhaven

Lots of bolts in this region. Most development has been done after the 1980s.

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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The best rock at the The Gold Mine? Up the left hand side of the wall on small perfect little holds. Thin, sustained and techo!

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

2m right of VTPoT. Up on little pockets. Climbs right of the last bolt....

FA: Jason Lammers, 2011

Start as for WtBF, vere leftwards at 2nd bolt to nice flake and follow the awesome pockets.

FA: Jason Lammers, 2012

One of the original lines at the Gold Mine. Up the pockets to lower offs under the roof.

FA: Greg Wilson, 2006

Start up the boulder to clip first bolt then jump on wall and blast out through the roof. Back jump roof to clean. Be careful of suss flakes in roof. Originally graded 25, but most now consider it more like 23/24.

FA: Rick Phillips, 2011

Up the fallen boulder clipping bolt on left then on wall crimping like a Banshee.

FA: Gilles Bonin, 2011

Up block in corner then straight up wall to anchors just right of roof.

FA: Tanya Greeves, 2011

Up slab then step onto ferny ledge on right. Crank up sweet (or desperate) diagonal finger crack leading rightwards.

FA: Jesse Lomas, 2006

One of the best looking lines at the crag, and a great climb! The overhung buttress on right edge of Fernville, with prominent pockets in the middle. Stick-clip first bolt.

FA: Greg Wilson, 2006

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