Routes in Oatlands

Start as for Getting Warmer, go up and right to finish as for Comedy Value.

Start on the flake at the back of the roof, 1m behind the large jug. Out to lip. Originally given V14 but downgraded after a quick repeat.

Sitstart up short hanging corner

About 25m to the right of Crack Head is a free standing boulder, a bit fractured and loose but has a couple of fun problems.

Sit start on good holds, up to curving arete, use holds only on arete. Top out at apex of boulder.

30m? right of the bottom dam is a bulgy arete feature just to the left of a little chimney crack. Sit start left of the crack, head left and around the arete, then up to slopers.

Traverse from the huge juggy sloper to the right as far as possible

Up thin wall to slopey topout.

Stand Start - Up face from jugs at lip

Start just left of the Lloyds engraving on the left hand side of the wall (the obvious left sweeping arc). Sit start at pinch (feet off slab), up via under clings to your left and sharp edges to your right. Top out using good holds at lip.

Start off undercling in back of the cave climb two moves into thriller in Manilla

Start as for previous problem, up middle of face using good edge and loose finger crack, dyno to apex. No holds on arete.

The shallow crack 6m right of Mr Happy Place. Sit start on sidepull at bottom of crack, climb up to ledge and then top out in any direction that appeals.

Start on slopes heel up. Probably easier if you're tall and harder if you're not.

Grade needs confirmation. Stand start low on the arete, left hand moving between lip and face holds, right hand stays on arete. Finish over highest point on boulder.

Stand Start - Up face from jugs at lip, to the right of previous problem.

A big reach to holds in the little corner - the first ascent was by a very tall person reaching across to the top holds, this problem is considerably harder using the lower holds. The low hold has now broken and is bigger, and goes from here at about V8.

Start roughly in the middle of the Sanguine traverse, directly under the roof pocket on slopers, bust straight up and finish as for Roundhouse.

The farthest left of the 3 water-grooves

Start on low crimpy rail 3m right of Groove Train, up to slopers then head left to finish at nose.

Up thin holds to slopers. Don't use any handholds on Warm Me Up.

Stand Start - Up face from jugs at lip, to the right of previous problem.

Stand start but very reachy to first hold. A crucial foothold has snapped off, making this climb much harder. Grade is unconfirmed.

Another Linkup. Climb all of Bongo in the Congo and finish up Rumble in the Jungle.

Start as for Electric Avenue but go left to the next set of jugs.

Stand Start. Start on the black rock a few metres in from the lip on the left side of the cave, at a bit of a ridge 2 metres from the very back. Use Gaston like sloper and right hand pinch with feet in roof. Climb out into Fire in the Hole and top out the same. Originally V10 turned V8 and back up to around V9 after two holds broke.

Obvious jugs and undercling to topout - no feet on the boulder to the right of start. It might stay dry in rain, but your shoes won't!

Hang Start - Start as for 1st V1 then traverse the lip to the right, then head up and right ending to the right of the tree.

Dyno to top from good hold

Thriller in Manilla extended, but with the excellent finish as for fire in the hole.

Start 1m left of arete at jug. Up jugs to top.

Left hand start to Rumble in the Jungle. Start off opposing edges in roof.

Up to the left of the overhang

Stand Start - Classic

Full traverse of the top lip of the cave. Many traverses from different starting points have been done over the years, all at roughly the same grade. Make your own adventure, crux is the lichen and dirt. Pumpy coming across the exposed lip. Mantle at pillar to finish or walk off in the corner depending on direction of traverse. Watch out for rusty fence at left the end.

Start at flat hold 1m right of arete.

Start about 1.5m left of the fallen block on the far left of the Devil's Kitchenette at a finger slot under the roof. Move left to lip and up over bulge.

Traverse the thin line rightwards and finish up no 4.

Stand Start - Traverse right to left along rail

5m right of Lloyd's Dyno, sitstart up flake, then right and up thin slab

The left arete of the cave, start low with right hand on undercling sloper and left hand on the broken hold. Left hand starting hold broke sometime in 2016. Still sits at V10. Follow the hanging arete and finish on the flat jug. A hard topout may be possible.

Start as for Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole

Start as for previous problem but go right to lip, then up and right on jugs.

Out through roof and top out.

Stand Start - Start at back of cave, jump out to big slope and traverse left.

Sitstart under roof and climb up onto slab via jugs

Very hard. Sit start as for Fade to Black, up into the rib and hard left via big move to finish as for Angels on the Sidelines. Will add several grades to Fade to Black

Start as for Rumble in the Jungle and finish as for Fire in the Hole

Start about 2m left of The Cheeky Little Devil. Straight up then top out as for Cheeky Little Devil so as to avoid the hollow block.

Up arete and out through overhanging prow on jugs.

Stand Start - Start about 3m right of Darkside on the obvious jug at head height, pull out into roof then move left and finish as for Darkside.

Sitstart and up into curving undercling

Stand start the double water groove just to the left of the cave arete.

Proud line starting as for Bongo in the Congo in the very back of the cave, after a metre or so traverse under the roof section into Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole.

Traverse right to left, keep going around left as far as the rock is dry

Start as for no 4. but go up and right and do the slopey topout.

Stand Start - Start a few metres left of the campus problem, and follow the diagonal line right.

Start on two small edges around corner, traverse leftwards along rail and into Cardboard Thin

Start as for Flounder, do the first moves and head left around the bulge into the water runnel via the big sloper. Stay away from the corner and the knee bars. Stand start from big sloper up the water runnel goes at v3.

Start as for Flounder, link into the end of 'Rumble in the Jungle' where Rumble meets the lip. Finish straight up as for Rumble.

Do the 1844 traverse then finish up The Cheeky Little Devil

Sit Start Start using RH crimp and very low left arete. A couple of moves gets you to the top jugs. Avoid tree on topout. Probably v3ish from one or two moves in.

Stand Start - Up from good hold at lip

Start at the start of the Nettle Lover traverse and climb up to the high ledge and the top.

The low start to 'angels on the sidelines'. Start on sloping crimps just below the 'sexy' graffiti. Adds a few hard tension moves.

Start as for Thriller in Manilla, climb to jug at lower lip and head left via big move into finish of Fire in the Hole.

Start basically under the big tree, topout to the right of the tree.

V3/4. Sit start on good edges, move up and onto slab via small holds to top.

Stand Start - Up from lip 1.5m right of V3 campus broblem

Start as for Fire in the Hole, through the hueco and drop down into the bottom lip jug of Rumble via big move, finish as for Rumble.

Sit start in corner as for Yoga, head right on slopers into Congaline of Suckholes and finish on top jug of same climb.

Traverse juggy rail left to right then top out up right hand groove.

As for 1.Green but move right via good holds to arete, then to top.

Project - Sam's project through roof

Sit start as for Congaline Of Suckholes and finish as for Frogger

Sit start as for Congaline of Suckholes and head left via slopers into Yoga.

Start as for Sorted but straight up. There are a couple of variations on this.

Rock onto the blankish black slab and to top via mossy holds. Fun slab problem.

Start at underclings 1m left of the green fence post. Up to crimps and slopey topout.

Dylan Hill

SDS on right side of the face 'facing' the main ckiffline

Start as for Frogger and finish as for Congaline by climbing all the way into Congaline and doing its finishing move

Starts in the back left corner of the constant gardener cave, gains the slopey lip to the left of the cave, traverses the lip to the left for about a metre and heads straight up via crimps and flat juggy holds.

Go upward from part way along the rail.

Right hand arete and slab.

Start at big jug 1m right of fence post and dyno up to lip and desperate slopey mantle.