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Routes in Orroral Ridge

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 437 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Unknown year
V3 Fat and Lazy
Boulder Orroral area
The Belfry - slab start

A meter left of The Belfry is a vague scoop with a couple of bolts (first one is missing a hanger as of july '18). Details unknown but appears to be a start to the Belfry that skips the wide stuff.

Mixed trad 2 Orroral area
24 The Polymath

A short, sharp, thin tips crack. Difficulty dependent on finger size.

FA:

Trad 7m Orroral area
V10 Bakers Dozen SS

Sit start as for Bakers Dozen.

FA: Zac Vertrees

Boulder Orroral area
V5 Dead Presidents
Boulder Orroral area
Project Barten (open)

Starts at a short crack. Pass many bolts up the slab to lower-off. Re-equipped but still waiting for a clean ascent.

SportProject 27m, 10 Orroral area
Project- closed

The arête at the end of the chimney has been bolted. It’s either an easy ~12 ish chimney or a hard dyke climb.

SportProject Orroral area
16 Deep Space - Sickle

The first two pitches of 'Deep Space', followed by the last pitch of 'Sickle'.

FA: Unknown

Trad 90m, 3 Orroral area
V1 Try Troy's Traverse

This has probably been done before but is worth recording as it is fun and serves as a great warm up for the area. Start standing on the flake just off the ground about 2 metres right of 'The Renaissance Man'. Traverse right along the horizontal crack past 'California Dreaming' to top out at the far right of the wall.

Boulder 7m Orroral area
Campus King project

Start at the furthest left end of the boulder, powerful move straight up then mantle.

Boulder 4m Orroral area
V4 Our Daily Bread

Stand start on good crimps, end up on a good high crimp with feet on the ledge. Another variant for an extra grade heads left from the start holds and ends in the same place.

Boulder Orroral area
Project

about 10m left of 'Blood on the Cracks' is a short, slightly overhanging crack.

TradProject 6m Orroral area
V1 Beer Gut Roof
Boulder Orroral area
8 Heresy

Up the crack until it runs out, then step right to the bolts

Mixed trad 10m, 1 Orroral area
V10 Whales Tale

Whales tales starts with both hands down low on the sharp flake (matched as low as you can) and moves up the arete via the big sheild. The stand start (V8) starts with one hand on the arete right hand crimp and left hand on the face crimp a bit higher up. Tall man beta might drop a grade on both of these.

Boulder 6m Orroral area
21 In-your-endo

To the right of 'Bad Press' is an entrance to the cave. This route is directly ahead of you as you enter the cave.

Straight up the wall.

FA: Ben Jones

Sport 2 Orroral area
Unnamed arete

The flakey overhanging arete on the left edge of the boulder left of 'Vertigo' (i.e. down and right from 'Atom Blaster') has been bolted but not claimed.

TradProject Orroral area
V0 Warm up

Many eliminate's can be made on this boulder problem. Start low on crimp jugs and cruise to the top.

FA: Justin Ryan

Boulder 5m Orroral area
25 Non Caffeinated Organism

In the open courtyard inside the cave complex before scrambling up to ' Stepping Out'. On the southern side of the open courtyard. Bolts and gear up the wall and huge hanging boulder to a trad belay on top.

Scramble up and start from the top of the boulder that creates the halfway ledge on the left side of the route. Belaying from the ground level of the cave is best. Place a low cam and then lean out to clip the bolt, pull out onto the face and hard, technical crimping out to the right leads to a delicate slab to the top.

The direct start past one bolt from the ground level is now an open project - all yours if you want it!

FA: Duncan Brown

Set: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

FFA: Duncan Brown, 23 Mar 2019

Mixed trad 20m, 6 Orroral area
7 Bolt for a bolt

Straight up the slab past the intrusion at 2 meters

Sport 10m, 3 Orroral area
V12 Stand and Deliver

Stand start on two tiny crimps, move up and right to the big shield and then top out the proud arete

Boulder 6m Orroral area
17/18 Triphong

Adds a great left leaning hand crack, and a bombay chimney to the best pitches of Dipthong. (or it could be the original if you take the route description with a lot of salt) Start 3 meters left of Dipthong at a slanted crack or chimeny

  1. 10m, climb the dirty crack on the right or the chimney to a stance on a dirt ledge

  2. 15m, climb the left leaning hand crack out to the arete before pulling back right and into the Bombay chimney to emerge on the ledge below Diphong's third pitch.

  3. Finish up the fun pitches of Diphong

Set: Dane Evans

TradProject 4 Orroral area
20 Echidna

This route starts at ground level 3 meters left of a squeeze chimney.

  1. 20, Up the wall to a bolt, tend left onto the slab to another two bolts.

  2. 14, From the ledge (start of Watch Me), tend left past another two bolts, one of which actually has a hanger.

FA: Unknown

Mixed trad 20m, 2, 5 Orroral area
V8 Slabbin It

Start low on good holds, try not to get tangled between the crossing over and heel hooks, and pull out your best slab master to get to the top.

Boulder 4m Orroral area
13 Short sighted

Step left off the block to gain the steep slab. Pad up this to the top

Sport 10m, 3 Orroral area
Left of The Other Problem

Sit start as for The Other Problem. Head left on the crimps then battle the mantle.

BoulderProject 3m Orroral area
Project Chris Warner (open)

The bolted arete directly below the chossy approach slab and opposite Julius Caesar. Very delicate arete climbing on bolts to chain

SportProject 18m, 8 Orroral area
21 The Renaissance Man

Short slab arete with a hard start.

Set: Duncan Brown

FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016

Sport 10m, 2 Orroral area
V5 Dragline

An obvious line on 'Barrel Boulder' that begins in the depths, on slopes, whilst lying on your back.

Boulder Orroral area
V8 Bull Traverse

Start low down on two crimps at the furthest left of the boulder, no feet and small crimps lead into the start of the flippster. Take a 7 if you start a little further in.

BoulderProject 7m Orroral area
15 Dead Fingers Run

Start as for Dead Fingers Talk, heading left up the ramp

Trad Orroral area
AID:A2 Unfinished aid project

Branch out from Vertigo at mid height and head for the tiny seam to the right. Lower off fixed biner. The rest of the route (unclimbed) would be bat hooks and bolts to the top.

FA: Chris Fitzgerald

AidProject Orroral area
V7 Barrelfest

Starts on a very low jug to the left; up to a slope and out right to a powerful undercling, finishing on more slopes.

Boulder Orroral area
Roof project
BoulderProject Orroral area
Unknown 80s route

There's a steep north-west facing wall, with 4 right angle hangers

Sport Orroral area
13 Belfry Access Route

The easiest way to the top. Wander up a series of chimneys on the eastern side, to a ledge. Climb the mossy slab from the ledge to the belay station (poorly protected).

FA: Unknown

Trad 15m Orroral area
V5 Mantle king

Stand start on good matched hold and mantle the nose, down and left of the slabbin it boulder, this boulder has 3 or 4 other lines on it that have been done, update with photos soon

Boulder Orroral area
13 30 Degrees and Calm

Start at the bottom of the slab, step on and trust the rubber

SportProject 15m Orroral area
V4 Gluten Free

To the right of noble rise

Boulder Orroral area
14 Galvin is my favourite

The line of bolts up a very nice textured slab. The deathtrap aluminium hangers have been replaced

Sport 25m, 6 Orroral area
15 Penny Direct

Straight up the bolted slab between Penny and Chopper

Sport 18m, 2 Orroral area
V8 44 Home

Stand start matched on good rail, big move up to blind pinch and then work your way up and around the boulder

FA: Nick Churchill

Boulder Orroral area
7 Geology Lesson

Walk in to the top of 30 Degrees,

Tend left up the dyke and through intermittent cracks. Well protected by gear

TradProject 20m Orroral area
V7 Nobel Rise

The first arete you come to

Boulder Orroral area
Only for the Devil - proj Dane

Up the South corner of the 'Demon' block above Oxygen Arete - Rap off bolts on top that serve mostly to TR Demon

SportProject 6 Orroral area
16 The Hyperspace Express Route

Start as for Deep Space. Initially up the pinnacle and at 5m take the right-hand crack straight up. After the horizontal break go straight up the slab past a couple of carrot bolts. Another carrot then rejoin Deep Space at the steep headwall before the ledge.

FA: Wade Stevens

Mixed trad 80m, 3 Orroral area
V6 One Rail

Just to the left of 44 Home, climb up the steep two faced wall, looks like you can stem and it will be easy.....good luck. starts on good rail out right

BoulderProject Orroral area
11 Ferrous negotiations

Walk in to the top of 30 Degrees, Tend right up the continued slab

SportProject 20m Orroral area
V10 Tree hugger

Start low matched on arete crimp, head up arete for a few moves make some big moves across right to a good crimp, followed by some tricky moves to end up with feet on this crimp. (may have already been done please let me know if it has)

Boulder Orroral area
V8 Squeeze the loaf

Start on crimp on the arete, some smooth compression moves up sees you matched the sharp arete hold a few meters off the ground. (probably done by someone else, feel free to change)

Boulder Orroral area
Devil in my ear - Dane

The arete right of 'Demon'. An easier variant, but the ground is further away. Not that it'll make a difference really.

TradProject Orroral area
Unnamed project

Just left of the Skin It Back alcove, on the valley side, is this line of shiny bolts up a vertical wall. Rumoured to be an old Matt Rizzuto project. There is also a single bolt to its right, which would make a hard bouldery start to the arete above.

SportProject 4 Orroral area
Antbiter

Stand start and up via the angled crack. Watch out for the ants.

BoulderProject 4m Orroral area
16 Hyper Space Express Route-Sickle

Add the final pitch of Sickle to take you to the top.

Trad 90m Orroral area
20 The Gingerman

The rightwards curving crack on the wall above and to the right of 'Mushroom Rock', originally with one aid move.

FFA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth

FA: Ian Lewis & Damien Jones, 1974

Trad 20m Orroral area
16 Achille's Armpit

Hideous, don't say you weren't warned. Start in the cave, graunching up the chock filled chimney to a leftwards weakness. Follow this to under an overlap and step left around an arete to a ledge.

FA: Lincoln Hall

Trad 25m Orroral area
22 Only for My Ego

The line of bolts one metre right of 'Power Cat'; a bad joke even by sports climbing standards.

FA: Unknown

Sport 12m, 2 Orroral area
V0- Warmup 1

FA: Willem Ryan

Boulder 3m Orroral area
V5 Fumbling flakes

Start on jugs at head height follow-up obvious flake line far right of the boulder, potential for an extra few grades if you start at the same place as The Bull traverse. Spot well as the rocks is a little crumbly still. Link ups between the two flakes are also good and worth doing- however not separate climbs

Boulder 5m Orroral area
7 Unnamed

The chimney between the slab block and the back of poachers forms a nice start to Skyline

Trad 4m Orroral area
1972
8 Dinero

The enjoyable crack and groove starting below and four metres left of 'Penny'.

FA: Tony Wood & Ian Taylor, 1972

Trad 20m Orroral area
7 Penny

Worth the effort to see the view. Start on the left side of the easy-angle slab. Take the short slab and crack to the right arete, then up this to the top. There is now a triple bolt belay/rap station.

FA: Ian Taylor & Tony Wood, 1972

Trad 20m Orroral area
32 Vertigo

Finally freed but still popular as an aid climb, hence double bolts at the top of the wall. The impressive overhanging crack on the valley side. Up the crack to the fork and take the right-hand crack to the top. Also popular as a commercial abseiling site.

FA: Norm Booth & Lincoln Hall, 1972

FFA: Daniel Fisher, Sep 2019

Trad 36m Orroral area
1973
16 Sickle

The obvious rightwards curving crack. Start in the corner at the left end of the slabs.

  1. 12 metres - Climb the left-hand (or the easier right-hand) chimney to the top of the huge block.

  2. 30 metres - Step off the block and climb the crack to a sitting stance.

  3. 15 metres - Constricted moves over the water runnel to a bush belay.

  4. 23 metres - Move back left past the bush for a few metres, then pull onto the wall above, and delicately along the thin diagonal to gain the handcrack (phew!). Cruise to the top.

FA: Steve Lumsdaine & Peter Riddy (alt.), 1973

Trad 80m, 4 Orroral area
16 R Deep Space

A good second pitch. Start at a flake pinnacle at the lowest point of the cliff.

  1. 26 metres - Climb the pinnacle and the crack above the apex, moving left to belay on top of a flake.

  2. 34 metres - Straight up the unprotected slab to a sloping ramp. Right along the ramp and up a short wall to belay on the ledge.

  3. 30 metres - Up the slab above by a shallow groove.

FA: Reed Dowdle, Lincoln Hall (alt.) & Norm Booth, 1973

Trad 90m, 3 Orroral area
15 Andromeda

Now chossy. Start 45 metres right of 'Deep Space' at a groove.

  1. 20 metres - Crux. Climb the groove to a tree.

  2. 26 metres - Up the cracks to a ledge, left to a mossy slab and up to bushes.

  3. 44 metres - Up the easy cracks on the right.

FA: Norm Booth, Lincoln Hall (alt.) & Reed Dowdle, 1973

Trad 90m, 3 Orroral area
15 Lincoln's Lament

The groove-ramp on the right side of the first large boulder seen as you stroll down the path; move right at the top. A rap station replaces the traditional leap across to the top of 'Penny'.

FA: Norm Booth & Lincoln Hall, 1973

Trad 25m Orroral area
17 The Belfry

The original route on the crag, first climbed with a point of aid. Start at the crack about 10 metres right of the 'West Face of Belfry'.

  1. 25 metres - Climb the crack, step left and up another crack and through the bulge to a ledge. A short corner (about 19) leads directly to the top from here, but the original route traverses right.

  2. 25 metres - Move across the slab to a small ledge, traverse right around the corner (don't look down!) to gain the 'helter-skelter' ramp leading to the top. Poorly protected.

FA: Peter Cocker & A. Sternberk, 1973

Trad 50m, 2 Orroral area
12 Hector's Staircase

Scramble up to a wide, mossy chimney above and right from 'Snow Queen'.

  1. 20 metres - Up the sloping chimney into a cave.

  2. 20 metres - From within the extensive cave system, scramble out through a roof hole using a vertical flake, or more easily to the right.

  3. 20 metres - Cross the small courtyard and finish up a corner chimney.

FA: A. Sternbeck, P.Mcrae (alt.), John Armstrong (#1 & 2), 1973

Trad 60m, 3 Orroral area
13 Labyrinth

Start in a corner 70 metres left of 'Worm's Tunnel'.

  1. 10 metres - A hard first move, then scramble up the chimney to beneath the chockstone.

  2. 20 metres - Up the chimney to belay in the corner.

  3. 20 metres - Follow the crack traversing left across the slab.

  4. 15 metres - Climb up the textured slab and into the cave above. The easiest exit is left, towards the valley

FA: Peter Cocker, A. Steinbeck (alt) & Paul McRae, 1973

Trad 70m, 4 Orroral area
14 Norm's Nees

Pretty grim. The rightwards leaning chimney with a big leaning block above.

FA: Norm Booth, Bill Wilson & Lincoln Hall, 1973

Trad 20m Orroral area
11 Sour Grapes

The same crack as 'Darkling' on the other side of the boulder.

FA: Bill Wilson, Norm Booth & Lincoln Hall, 1973

Trad 12m Orroral area
7 Nursery Chimney

The chimney in the right-hand wall of the recess left of 'Paper Tiger'.

FA: Lincoln Hall & R. Pickering, 1973

Trad 17m Orroral area
10 Fissures of Men

At the left-hand end of the line of slabby boulders below the 'Back Wall'. The bent, easy angled chimney.

FA: Lincoln Hall & R. Pickering (solo), 1973

Trad 22m Orroral area
17 Child's Play

A crack and corner with a hard start. Up the crack and corner, descend into the chimney and finish as for 'Kid's Stuff'. First climbed in two pitches.

FA: Lincoln Hall & Norm Booth (alt.), 1973

Trad 25m Orroral area
18 Leaning Tower

An enjoyable start but poorly protected at the top.

FA: Lincoln Hall & Norm Booth, 1973

Trad 35m Orroral area
8 Kid's Stuff

From back when kids were tough. The horrendous chimney five metres right of 'Child's Play', and just left of 'Leaning Tower', originally done in two pitches.

FA: Lincoln Hall & Norm Booth (alt.), 1973

Trad 22m Orroral area
17 Psychadelia

The crack up the back of 'Mushroom Rock', about 10 metres right of 'Hotline'. Step across the gap and up the crack.

FA: Mike Law, Lincoln Hall, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 1973

Trad 15m Orroral area
14 Treebeard

"Recommended for those who enjoy a good thrutch". Need we say more? Start left of 'The Morrigan'.

  1. 10 metres - Up the crack, past the tree on its left.

  2. 25 metres - Climb the tapering chimney to a ledge.

FA: Tony Wood & Ian Taylor (alt.), 1973

Trad 35m, 2 Orroral area
1974
9 The Bannister

The chimney with a slanting crack in the left wall. Belay from a flaky bollard, as for 'Lazy Dynamite'.

FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 1974

Trad 20m Orroral area
13 Split the Difference

Wanders into the cliff. Start 20 meters left of Labyrinth in a small recess.

  1. 25 metres - Climb a slanting crack for five metres, then move right (past a shrub) along a ledge to a corner (on Labyrinth).

  2. 8 metres - Climb the corner to the shrub, then up any of the cracks to the ledge above.

  3. 30 metres (unroped) - First scramble through to a flat floored chimney, then head left through the squeeze for about 30m past several corners.

  4. a) 15 meters - When you see a chockstone at 4 meters, chimney up and over it, then up the lake/slab directly in front of you.

    b) 12 metres - Continue out the final squeeze and double back at a slightly higher level and head up the flake/slab above the chimney

FA: Mike Todd, Peter Cocker & Tony Wood (var.), 1974

Trad 45m, 3 Orroral area
20 Hotline

A vicious off-width, overhung and flared chimney crack high up right on 'Mushroom Rock'. Start below a corner formed by large flakes.

  1. 10 metres (13) - Climb the corner to a roof, traverse left and around the nose to a good stance.

  2. 22 metres (20) - Crux. climb the strenuous and sustained crack.

FA: Keith Bell & John Fantini, 1974

Trad 32m, 2 Orroral area
14 Dipthong

Disjointed. Start as for 'Split the Difference'.

  1. 10 metres - Up the slanting crack to a good stance.

  2. 8 metres - Up the crack and rightwards up to a ledge near third stance on Labyrinth

  3. 7 metres - Reach up and traverse the leftwards slanting flake to the rock pile labyrinth emerges from

  4. 10 metres - walk a few meters and climb the easy chimney between a few of those boulders. Walk back 10 meters to a cleft on the right.

  5. 10 meters - Ascend the pinnacle using the crack on the right to a slab.

FA: Ian Taylor, Chris Larque & Tony Wood (var.), 1974

Trad 45m, 5 Orroral area
7 Playtime

The chimney above the path between 'Pigs on the Wing' and 'Swine Fever'.

FA: Lincoln Hall & John Eiseman, 1974

Trad 20m Orroral area
8 Half Moon Chimney

The obvious curving chimney at the left end of the 'Elephant Special' outcrop. Takes the chimney and crack in its right wall.

FA: Lincoln Hall & John Eiseman, 1974

Trad 20m Orroral area
11 Lyre

A chimney "located in the heart of the outcrop" below 'Sour Grapes'.

Just left of the top pitch of UD Start from half height, accessed stepping right from zen

FA: Charles Massy & friends, 1974

Trad 16m Orroral area
16 Padarn

Start: in the open cave facing the valley, at the left end of the sector. Climb the crack which is formed by a slab and the roof.

FA: Chris Larque, Norm Booth, Damien Jones & Lincoln Hall, 1974

Trad 12m Orroral area
14 Shag Alley

Downhill and right from 'White Witch' is the initially overhanging crack.

FA: Lincoln Hall & Peter Mills, 1974

Trad 12m Orroral area
12 Eavil Weevil

The mossy crack a few metres right of 'Manic Depression'. Done in two pitches.

FA: Peter Mills & Lincoln Hall (alt.), 1974

Trad 20m, 2 Orroral area
20 White Witch

"A cold kind of bitch." The strenuous off-width in the corner five metres right of 'Half Moon Chimney'.

FA: Mike Law & Damien Jones, 1974

Trad 24m Orroral area
19 Darkling

The off-width crack in the vertical wall on the western side of the outcrop.

FA: Mike Law & Damien Jones, 1974

Trad 20m Orroral area
14 Snow Queen

The chimney five metres right of the main wall. Up over chockstones, eventually traversing out under boulders to a good ledge.

FA: Mike Law & Lincoln Hall, 1974

Trad 45m Orroral area
18 Blue Funk

A leftwards leaning fist-and-wider crack. From 'Leaning Tower' walk downhill and slightly left (as you face the valley) for 20m, then zig back right for 20m.

FA: Norm Booth, Ray Lassman & John Smart, 1974

Trad 8m Orroral area
20 Manic Depression

The imposing off-width corner, just right of 'Flying Legal', which overhangs at the top.

FA: Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1974

FFA: John Smart & Norm Booth, 1975

Trad 22m Orroral area
16 Crazy Mama

The clean cut chimney in the corner halfway between 'Motown' and 'Technocrat'. Well protected with tubes and larger cams.

FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 1974

Trad 25m Orroral area
16 California Dreaming

One of the better, if typically short, cracks at 'Legoland'. The obvious crack in the left wall of the passage out of the enclosure.

FA: Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1974

Trad 10m Orroral area
10 Ace High

Walk up the rather slick slab on the left of a tree.

FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth (solo), 1974

Trad 15m Orroral area
11 Running Flush

The slab right of 'Ace High'.

FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth (solo), 1974

Trad 15m Orroral area
11 Snail

Obscure. "The squeeze chimney about 20 metres left of 'Norm's Nees', done in two pitches, moving right to avoid the overhang."

This is the closest thing that I've found, although why you would split it into 2 pitches is beyond me. I may have to climb it.

FA: Peter Cocker & G. Cocker, 1974

Trad 16m, 2 Orroral area
13 Lazy Dynamite

The prominent off-width crack right of the central chasm. Climb the crack and exit right to belay from a flaky bollard.

FA: Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1974

Trad 45m, 2 Orroral area

Showing 1 - 100 out of 437 routes.

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