Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Unknown year | |||||
V3 | Fat and Lazy
| Orroral area | |||
The Belfry - slab start
A meter left of The Belfry is a vague scoop with a couple of bolts (first one is missing a hanger as of july '18). Details unknown but appears to be a start to the Belfry that skips the wide stuff. | 2 | Orroral area | |||
24 | ★ The Polymath
A short, sharp, thin tips crack. Difficulty dependent on finger size. FA: | 7m | Orroral area | ||
V10 | ★★★ Bakers Dozen SS
Sit start as for Bakers Dozen. FA: Zac Vertrees | Orroral area | |||
V5 | Dead Presidents
| Orroral area | |||
Project Barten (open)
Starts at a short crack. Pass many bolts up the slab to lower-off. Re-equipped but still waiting for a clean ascent. | 27m, 10 | Orroral area | |||
Project- closed
The arête at the end of the chimney has been bolted. It’s either an easy ~12 ish chimney or a hard dyke climb. | Orroral area | ||||
16 | ★★★ Deep Space - Sickle
The first two pitches of 'Deep Space', followed by the last pitch of 'Sickle'. FA: Unknown | 90m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
V1 | ★★ Try Troy's Traverse
This has probably been done before but is worth recording as it is fun and serves as a great warm up for the area. Start standing on the flake just off the ground about 2 metres right of 'The Renaissance Man'. Traverse right along the horizontal crack past 'California Dreaming' to top out at the far right of the wall. | 7m | Orroral area | ||
★ Campus King project
Start at the furthest left end of the boulder, powerful move straight up then mantle. | 4m | Orroral area | |||
V4 | ★ Our Daily Bread
Stand start on good crimps, end up on a good high crimp with feet on the ledge. Another variant for an extra grade heads left from the start holds and ends in the same place. | Orroral area | |||
★ Project
about 10m left of 'Blood on the Cracks' is a short, slightly overhanging crack. | 6m | Orroral area | |||
V1 | Beer Gut Roof
| Orroral area | |||
8 | ★ Heresy
Up the crack until it runs out, then step right to the bolts | 10m, 1 | Orroral area | ||
V10 | ★★ Whales Tale
Whales tales starts with both hands down low on the sharp flake (matched as low as you can) and moves up the arete via the big sheild. The stand start (V8) starts with one hand on the arete right hand crimp and left hand on the face crimp a bit higher up. Tall man beta might drop a grade on both of these. FA: Daniel Fisher | 6m | Orroral area | ||
21 | In-your-endo
To the right of 'Bad Press' is an entrance to the cave. This route is directly ahead of you as you enter the cave. Straight up the wall. FA: Ben Jones | 2 | Orroral area | ||
Unnamed arete
The flakey overhanging arete on the left edge of the boulder left of 'Vertigo' (i.e. down and right from 'Atom Blaster') has been bolted but not claimed. | Orroral area | ||||
V0 | Warm up
Many eliminate's can be made on this boulder problem. Start low on crimp jugs and cruise to the top. FA: Justin Ryan | 5m | Orroral area | ||
25 | ★ Non Caffeinated Organism
In the open courtyard inside the cave complex before scrambling up to ' Stepping Out'. On the southern side of the open courtyard. Bolts and gear up the wall and huge hanging boulder to a trad belay on top. Scramble up and start from the top of the boulder that creates the halfway ledge on the left side of the route. Belaying from the ground level of the cave is best. Place a low cam and then lean out to clip the bolt, pull out onto the face and hard, technical crimping out to the right leads to a delicate slab to the top. The direct start past one bolt from the ground level is now an open project - all yours if you want it! | 20m, 6 | Orroral area | ||
7 | ★ Bolt for a bolt
Straight up the slab past the intrusion at 2 meters | 10m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
V12 | ★★★ Stand and Deliver
Stand start on two tiny crimps, move up and right to the big shield and then top out the proud arete FA: Daniel Fisher | 6m | Orroral area | ||
17/18 | ★★ Triphong
Adds a great left leaning hand crack, and a bombay chimney to the best pitches of Dipthong. (or it could be the original if you take the route description with a lot of salt) Start 3 meters left of Dipthong at a slanted crack or chimeny
Set: Dane Evans | 4 | Orroral area | ||
20 | ★ Echidna
This route starts at ground level 3 meters left of a squeeze chimney.
FA: Unknown | 20m, 2, 5 | Orroral area | ||
V8 | Slabbin It
Start low on good holds, try not to get tangled between the crossing over and heel hooks, and pull out your best slab master to get to the top. FA: Daniel Fisher | 4m | Orroral area | ||
13 | Short sighted
Step left off the block to gain the steep slab. Pad up this to the top | 10m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
Left of The Other Problem
Sit start as for The Other Problem. Head left on the crimps then battle the mantle. | 3m | Orroral area | |||
Project Chris Warner (open)
The bolted arete directly below the chossy approach slab and opposite Julius Caesar. Very delicate arete climbing on bolts to chain | 18m, 8 | Orroral area | |||
21 | ★★ The Renaissance Man
Short slab arete with a hard start. Set: Duncan Brown FFA: Duncan Brown, Nov 2016 | 10m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
V5 | Dragline
An obvious line on 'Barrel Boulder' that begins in the depths, on slopes, whilst lying on your back. | Orroral area | |||
V8 | ★★ Bull Traverse
Start low down on two crimps at the furthest left of the boulder, no feet and small crimps lead into the start of the flippster. Take a 7 if you start a little further in. | 7m | Orroral area | ||
15 | Dead Fingers Run
Start as for Dead Fingers Talk, heading left up the ramp | Orroral area | |||
AID:A2 | Unfinished aid project
Branch out from Vertigo at mid height and head for the tiny seam to the right. Lower off fixed biner. The rest of the route (unclimbed) would be bat hooks and bolts to the top. FA: Chris Fitzgerald | Orroral area | |||
V7 | Barrelfest
Starts on a very low jug to the left; up to a slope and out right to a powerful undercling, finishing on more slopes. | Orroral area | |||
Roof project
| Orroral area | ||||
Unknown 80s route
There's a steep north-west facing wall, with 4 right angle hangers | Orroral area | ||||
13 | ★ Belfry Access Route
The easiest way to the top. Wander up a series of chimneys on the eastern side, to a ledge. Climb the mossy slab from the ledge to the belay station (poorly protected). FA: Unknown | 15m | Orroral area | ||
V5 | Mantle king
Stand start on good matched hold and mantle the nose, down and left of the slabbin it boulder, this boulder has 3 or 4 other lines on it that have been done, update with photos soon FA: Justin Ryan | Orroral area | |||
13 | 30 Degrees and Calm
Start at the bottom of the slab, step on and trust the rubber | 15m | Orroral area | ||
V4 | Gluten Free
To the right of noble rise | Orroral area | |||
14 | ★★ Galvin is my favourite
The line of bolts up a very nice textured slab. The deathtrap aluminium hangers have been replaced | 25m, 6 | Orroral area | ||
15 | ★ Penny Direct
Straight up the bolted slab between Penny and Chopper | 18m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
V8 | ★ 44 Home
Stand start matched on good rail, big move up to blind pinch and then work your way up and around the boulder FA: Nick Churchill | Orroral area | |||
7 | ★ Geology Lesson
Walk in to the top of 30 Degrees, Tend left up the dyke and through intermittent cracks. Well protected by gear | 20m | Orroral area | ||
V7 | Nobel Rise
The first arete you come to | Orroral area | |||
Only for the Devil - proj Dane
Up the South corner of the 'Demon' block above Oxygen Arete - Rap off bolts on top that serve mostly to TR Demon | 6 | Orroral area | |||
16 | ★ The Hyperspace Express Route
Start as for Deep Space. Initially up the pinnacle and at 5m take the right-hand crack straight up. After the horizontal break go straight up the slab past a couple of carrot bolts. Another carrot then rejoin Deep Space at the steep headwall before the ledge. FA: Wade Stevens | 80m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
V6 | One Rail
Just to the left of 44 Home, climb up the steep two faced wall, looks like you can stem and it will be easy.....good luck. starts on good rail out right | Orroral area | |||
11 | Ferrous negotiations
Walk in to the top of 30 Degrees, Tend right up the continued slab | 20m | Orroral area | ||
V10 | ★★ Tree hugger
Start low matched on arete crimp, head up arete for a few moves make some big moves across right to a good crimp, followed by some tricky moves to end up with feet on this crimp. (may have already been done please let me know if it has) | Orroral area | |||
V8 | ★★ Squeeze the loaf
Start on crimp on the arete, some smooth compression moves up sees you matched the sharp arete hold a few meters off the ground. (probably done by someone else, feel free to change) | Orroral area | |||
Devil in my ear - Dane
The arete right of 'Demon'. An easier variant, but the ground is further away. Not that it'll make a difference really. | Orroral area | ||||
Unnamed project
Just left of the Skin It Back alcove, on the valley side, is this line of shiny bolts up a vertical wall. Rumoured to be an old Matt Rizzuto project. There is also a single bolt to its right, which would make a hard bouldery start to the arete above. | 4 | Orroral area | |||
Antbiter
Stand start and up via the angled crack. Watch out for the ants. | 4m | Orroral area | |||
16 | ★ Hyper Space Express Route-Sickle
Add the final pitch of Sickle to take you to the top. | 90m | Orroral area | ||
20 | ★★★ The Gingerman
The rightwards curving crack on the wall above and to the right of 'Mushroom Rock', originally with one aid move. FFA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth FA: Ian Lewis & Damien Jones, 1974 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
16 | Achille's Armpit
Hideous, don't say you weren't warned. Start in the cave, graunching up the chock filled chimney to a leftwards weakness. Follow this to under an overlap and step left around an arete to a ledge. FA: Lincoln Hall | 25m | Orroral area | ||
22 | Only for My Ego
The line of bolts one metre right of 'Power Cat'; a bad joke even by sports climbing standards. FA: Unknown | 12m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
V0- | Warmup 1
FA: Willem Ryan | 3m | Orroral area | ||
V5 | ★ Fumbling flakes
Start on jugs at head height follow-up obvious flake line far right of the boulder, potential for an extra few grades if you start at the same place as The Bull traverse. Spot well as the rocks is a little crumbly still. Link ups between the two flakes are also good and worth doing- however not separate climbs | 5m | Orroral area | ||
7 | Unnamed
The chimney between the slab block and the back of poachers forms a nice start to Skyline | 4m | Orroral area | ||
1972 | |||||
8 | ★ Dinero
The enjoyable crack and groove starting below and four metres left of 'Penny'. FA: Tony Wood & Ian Taylor, 1972 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
7 | ★ Penny
Worth the effort to see the view. Start on the left side of the easy-angle slab. Take the short slab and crack to the right arete, then up this to the top. There is now a triple bolt belay/rap station. FA: Ian Taylor & Tony Wood, 1972 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
32 | ★★★ Vertigo
Finally freed but still popular as an aid climb, hence double bolts at the top of the wall. The impressive overhanging crack on the valley side. Up the crack to the fork and take the right-hand crack to the top. Also popular as a commercial abseiling site. FA: Norm Booth & Lincoln Hall, 1972 FFA: Daniel Fisher, Sep 2019 | 36m | Orroral area | ||
1973 | |||||
16 | ★★ Sickle
The obvious rightwards curving crack. Start in the corner at the left end of the slabs.
FA: Steve Lumsdaine & Peter Riddy (alt.), 1973 | 80m, 4 | Orroral area | ||
16 R | ★★ Deep Space
A good second pitch. Start at a flake pinnacle at the lowest point of the cliff.
FA: Reed Dowdle, Lincoln Hall (alt.) & Norm Booth, 1973 | 90m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
15 | ★ Andromeda
Now chossy. Start 45 metres right of 'Deep Space' at a groove.
FA: Norm Booth, Lincoln Hall (alt.) & Reed Dowdle, 1973 | 90m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
15 | ★★ Lincoln's Lament
The groove-ramp on the right side of the first large boulder seen as you stroll down the path; move right at the top. A rap station replaces the traditional leap across to the top of 'Penny'. FA: Norm Booth & Lincoln Hall, 1973 | 25m | Orroral area | ||
17 | ★★ The Belfry
The original route on the crag, first climbed with a point of aid. Start at the crack about 10 metres right of the 'West Face of Belfry'.
FA: Peter Cocker & A. Sternberk, 1973 | 50m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
12 | ★★ Hector's Staircase
Scramble up to a wide, mossy chimney above and right from 'Snow Queen'.
FA: A. Sternbeck, P.Mcrae (alt.), John Armstrong (#1 & 2), 1973 | 60m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
13 | ★★ Labyrinth
Start in a corner 70 metres left of 'Worm's Tunnel'.
FA: Peter Cocker, A. Steinbeck (alt) & Paul McRae, 1973 | 70m, 4 | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Norm's Nees
Pretty grim. The rightwards leaning chimney with a big leaning block above. FA: Norm Booth, Bill Wilson & Lincoln Hall, 1973 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
11 | ★ Sour Grapes
The same crack as 'Darkling' on the other side of the boulder. FA: Bill Wilson, Norm Booth & Lincoln Hall, 1973 | 12m | Orroral area | ||
7 | Nursery Chimney
The chimney in the right-hand wall of the recess left of 'Paper Tiger'. FA: Lincoln Hall & R. Pickering, 1973 | 17m | Orroral area | ||
10 | Fissures of Men
At the left-hand end of the line of slabby boulders below the 'Back Wall'. The bent, easy angled chimney. FA: Lincoln Hall & R. Pickering (solo), 1973 | 22m | Orroral area | ||
17 | Child's Play
A crack and corner with a hard start. Up the crack and corner, descend into the chimney and finish as for 'Kid's Stuff'. First climbed in two pitches. FA: Lincoln Hall & Norm Booth (alt.), 1973 | 25m | Orroral area | ||
18 | ★ Leaning Tower
An enjoyable start but poorly protected at the top. FA: Lincoln Hall & Norm Booth, 1973 | 35m | Orroral area | ||
8 | Kid's Stuff
From back when kids were tough. The horrendous chimney five metres right of 'Child's Play', and just left of 'Leaning Tower', originally done in two pitches. FA: Lincoln Hall & Norm Booth (alt.), 1973 | 22m | Orroral area | ||
17 | ★★ Psychadelia
The crack up the back of 'Mushroom Rock', about 10 metres right of 'Hotline'. Step across the gap and up the crack. FA: Mike Law, Lincoln Hall, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 1973 | 15m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Treebeard
"Recommended for those who enjoy a good thrutch". Need we say more? Start left of 'The Morrigan'.
FA: Tony Wood & Ian Taylor (alt.), 1973 | 35m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
1974 | |||||
9 | The Bannister
The chimney with a slanting crack in the left wall. Belay from a flaky bollard, as for 'Lazy Dynamite'. FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 1974 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
13 | ★★★ Split the Difference
Wanders into the cliff. Start 20 meters left of Labyrinth in a small recess.
FA: Mike Todd, Peter Cocker & Tony Wood (var.), 1974 | 45m, 3 | Orroral area | ||
20 | ★★ Hotline
A vicious off-width, overhung and flared chimney crack high up right on 'Mushroom Rock'. Start below a corner formed by large flakes.
FA: Keith Bell & John Fantini, 1974 | 32m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
14 | Dipthong
Disjointed. Start as for 'Split the Difference'.
FA: Ian Taylor, Chris Larque & Tony Wood (var.), 1974 | 45m, 5 | Orroral area | ||
7 | ★ Playtime
The chimney above the path between 'Pigs on the Wing' and 'Swine Fever'. FA: Lincoln Hall & John Eiseman, 1974 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
8 | ★ Half Moon Chimney
The obvious curving chimney at the left end of the 'Elephant Special' outcrop. Takes the chimney and crack in its right wall. FA: Lincoln Hall & John Eiseman, 1974 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
11 | ★ Lyre
A chimney "located in the heart of the outcrop" below 'Sour Grapes'. Just left of the top pitch of UD Start from half height, accessed stepping right from zen FA: Charles Massy & friends, 1974 | 16m | Orroral area | ||
16 | Padarn
Start: in the open cave facing the valley, at the left end of the sector. Climb the crack which is formed by a slab and the roof. FA: Chris Larque, Norm Booth, Damien Jones & Lincoln Hall, 1974 | 12m | Orroral area | ||
14 | ★ Shag Alley
Downhill and right from 'White Witch' is the initially overhanging crack. FA: Lincoln Hall & Peter Mills, 1974 | 12m | Orroral area | ||
12 | Eavil Weevil
The mossy crack a few metres right of 'Manic Depression'. Done in two pitches. FA: Peter Mills & Lincoln Hall (alt.), 1974 | 20m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
20 | White Witch
"A cold kind of bitch." The strenuous off-width in the corner five metres right of 'Half Moon Chimney'. FA: Mike Law & Damien Jones, 1974 | 24m | Orroral area | ||
19 | ★★ Darkling
The off-width crack in the vertical wall on the western side of the outcrop. FA: Mike Law & Damien Jones, 1974 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
14 | Snow Queen
The chimney five metres right of the main wall. Up over chockstones, eventually traversing out under boulders to a good ledge. FA: Mike Law & Lincoln Hall, 1974 | 45m | Orroral area | ||
18 | ★ Blue Funk
A leftwards leaning fist-and-wider crack. From 'Leaning Tower' walk downhill and slightly left (as you face the valley) for 20m, then zig back right for 20m. FA: Norm Booth, Ray Lassman & John Smart, 1974 | 8m | Orroral area | ||
20 | ★ Manic Depression
The imposing off-width corner, just right of 'Flying Legal', which overhangs at the top. FA: Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1974 FFA: John Smart & Norm Booth, 1975 | 22m | Orroral area | ||
16 | ★ Crazy Mama
The clean cut chimney in the corner halfway between 'Motown' and 'Technocrat'. Well protected with tubes and larger cams. FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 1974 | 25m | Orroral area | ||
16 | ★ California Dreaming
One of the better, if typically short, cracks at 'Legoland'. The obvious crack in the left wall of the passage out of the enclosure. FA: Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1974 | 10m | Orroral area | ||
10 | ★ Ace High
Walk up the rather slick slab on the left of a tree. FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth (solo), 1974 | 15m | Orroral area | ||
11 | Running Flush
The slab right of 'Ace High'. FA: Ray Lassman & Norm Booth (solo), 1974 | 15m | Orroral area | ||
11 | Snail
Obscure. "The squeeze chimney about 20 metres left of 'Norm's Nees', done in two pitches, moving right to avoid the overhang." This is the closest thing that I've found, although why you would split it into 2 pitches is beyond me. I may have to climb it. FA: Peter Cocker & G. Cocker, 1974 | 16m, 2 | Orroral area | ||
13 | Lazy Dynamite
The prominent off-width crack right of the central chasm. Climb the crack and exit right to belay from a flaky bollard. FA: Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 1974 | 45m, 2 | Orroral area |