Ascents in Trojan Wall

Heaps of fun exploring the caves and chimneys on this route. Would recommend connecting with pitch 3 of split the difference to make this a consistent 3 star experience. Don’t be intimidated by what this route looks like from the outside. It starts deep within the chimney with a perfect crack on the face.

All about P3. P1 is a one-move wonder, which I protected with two microcams. P2 was a bit thrutchy with my child-bearing hips. I'd suggest tacking P3 onto one of the routes further right to make the best of it. Sweet crag for exploring the depths.

Enjoyable but probably 1 star at best. First move tricky - take a big cam to protect. Combined P3 and P4, which comes to only 20 meters total. Flakes on P3 are ok but a bit crumbly. Nice big boulder to sling for the final belay and instead of heading through the gap, head left around the outside and you can walk off. Rough pitch grade estimates would be 13 for first two, 9 for the rest.

Rebolted. And largely brushed. Needs a bit more, and if anyone else gets on it before I get back to it (hahahaha) then you need a thinner diameter crab or two for the last bolt

Dropped the last tenuous move. Should just lead it once I have skin

Crazy adventure! With basically no crack climbing skills, this was quite a fight.

Fun little cave section!

Incredible line! lead 1st clean after bailing a year ago, got through the roof to the jug of 2nd but pulled on gear after pumping out to get over the lip! would love to do this again an again an absolute classic adventure outing

nice run up this

Got to nearly the end of the hard bits. A few flakes are very close to coming off. Shoes might work better too, though they may destroy your feet if you fell. Could get gear at 4-5 m. maybe take a rope next time?

A hidden gem. How Mr. Barber was convinced to spend a day out there is beyond me. Deserves more traffic which will only make it better as the awesome first pitch has gotten a bit mossy.

Took me a couple of goes to find this. The southern descent track seems to be well over grown with lots of dead fall. I could not find an easy way through here. I found a way down further north through a rocky gully that led me down to a lower tier. Hard to be sure but I think it is near Minitour. When I was here recently there was an Outward Bound group abseiling either side of the gully. I descended down several rocky tiers following a gully that tended south west. I continued through the bush until I hit a very rough track that contoured around the base of the crag to the south. Followed my nose to find Hectors Staircase up the original decent gully. The start of Hectors Staircase is at 55H FA 76014 59188 (WGS 84).

The first pitch follows a narrow mossy chimney. The “cave” is formed by some large chock stones at the top. There are some loose blocks near the start but after that it is fairly solid. There is a disconcerting flake on the left wall that could break if you forced it, but this would be a risk to your belayer. Put your back on the right wall, there is less chance of breaking this flake and there is less chance of catching your gear on it. You climb out of a hole on to a wide ledge. There are other possible routes left and right of the chimney.

The second pitch covers some scrappy ground filled with dead fall. I would recommend that you and your belayer scramble forward up to the next tier. Tend right into a rock corridor that leads you to the real cave. Climb up into the cave, plenty of opportunities to rig an anchor in the cave for your second.

As per the original description: “From within the extensive cave system, scramble out through a roof hole using a vertical flake, or more easily to the right.” Either way you end up at a courtyard that is an easy place to reset. You can walk out here if required, follow the track to the right.

Third pitch is again as per the original description and a nice way to finish.

Really good pitch.Brushed 2018.

Bailed off pitch 2, not in the right headspace for a spacey hand crack 15 meters off the deck, would be well protected though, and not too hard

It's a brilliant crack, which makes me wonder if the route is meant to go that way, but the top 2 pitches of dipthong match if the 'left crack' is the flake traverse, and the start to Split is obviously the crack/ramp right of this one...

Really pleasant. I'd say 15, easier than California Dreaming, although getting off again is a little interesting. Well worth doing as an easier crack line

Good fun, fairly wide throughout, follows the intersection of 2 chimneys so you've got plenty of options

Down climbed to get back to my shoes, then went back up the fun pitches

Downclimbed to get back to my shoes

I love the cave pitches, Also found a possible alternate finish at a 16+ offwidth, also finally did the second pitch, the shrubs are a little annoying, but not too bad

Great fun, once I deciphered the route description

Love the old school grading. The first meter doesn’t count. Good fun.

Descended this way. Quite a nice subterranean romp

Great, and hilarious route. Eventually figured out where it went at the top

This route is gold. 0 star climbing, but a classic nonetheless. A must if you’ve ever looked at Mr Chicken. Take a headlamp.

Shutdown but the water. I'll be back

Take a headtorch

Excellent

It's all in the first 2m. Desperate jamming to pull the lip off the ground with 2x fear factor for nasty ground fall potential. P2 a nice jaunt.

Good climbing. The second bolt should be moved down and right, and perhaps a couple more added!

top rope!

unbelievable

A project for a future self! Bailed after the first 5mts - just not feeling solid enough but can definitely see within my capabilities