Routes as trad in Northeast Buttress

Climb starts from the sloping edge above and to the left of the start of Badile.

1. 50m Traverse right for a couple of moves onto the buttress. Climb straight up to the ledge.

2. 40m (14 - crux). Climb face right of corner to meet at its top. Traverse left along horizontal break until it is easy to move up to the right leaning overlap. Up this to belay after 15m.

3. 35m (13) Up the overlap for 5 metres and then step left to the wall. Climb up to thin vegetated crack that widens and is followed to blocks. A nice pitch.

4. 25m Continue up crack.

5. Easy climbing right of Last Tango in Widgiemooltha.

After a huge drought, it rained the day after this route was first climbed.

1. 50m Cross Central Gully and traverse R along the bushy ledge for 50m. A better alternative is to simply climb P1 of OWRTW.

2. 45m Start up the R trending track of OWRTW. At the top of it OWRTW trends L along a horizontal break but this climb trends R along a rising traverse to the tree ledge. Belay in crack behind.

3. 15m (14R) Move on R wall and then L across the crack under nose to gain slab beneath slightly overhung wall. Aim for the middle of the red wall. There is a blocky, slightly overhanging and slightly L trending line of weakness in it (crux, brittle rock, poor protection). Up to good platform with small crack at the back.

4. 40m Move R to corner of platform. Climb orange crack until it peters out just below a platform with belay.

5. 50m Continue easily up.

The longest climb in WA, it crosses the face R of Central Gully starting at Raindance and finishing above Karakoram Gully below the summit. There is a continuous line of weakness which is followed the whole way.

1. 50m Use the usual crossing into Central Gully and traverse R along the bushy ledge for 50m.

2. 35m Up to the R hand end of cave, taking the central ramp.

3. 20m Exit cave and climb up to the vegetation at 10m and then out R to find double bolt bracket belay in the middle of the slab face.

4. 40m R across slab, then rising R through weakness and then R to stance on platform. Across gully see a grey buttress.

5. 50m Follow onto grey buttress on skyline to easy going.

6. 30m Walk on to deep gully and descend 2m to belay opposite the breakout on the other side.

7. 30m Cross steep gully (crux) and up wall, to continue R to the next edge of a large gully.

8. 40m Climb the gangway upwards for a few metres and then descend somewhat and take a rising traverse to the red water-worn slab. There are 2 thin dykes across it a third of its height from the top. Belay at dyke at edge of slab.

9. 35m Cross slab via the dykes to R end of cave.

10. 45m Exit cave R and ascend diagonally towards crest. Poor belay.

11. 50m Continue R, crossing the exit from Skyliner. Ahead is Karakoram Gully.

12. 50m At the first gully, climb it, breakout R and head across face for white rock gangway and belay. 13 40m Continue rising traverse above Karakoram Gully and finish up wall on L and return R to stop and belay 50m below summit cave. From here no rope is needed.

A favourite classic. At the foot of the face is a distinct long overlap across a black slab (Beckoning Horizon), start to the left.

1. 40m The layback crack leads to a platform and wall. Up wall two metres to wide ramp to right. From ramp, move onto crack leading to centre of face. At top of crack put in protection and traverse right across face to platform and belay.

2. 30m Above belay, up crack to small roof. Follow crack to thread belay and platform.

3. 35m Follow large flakes till they run out and traverse left around corner into long open corner. Up to platform scoops, poor belay.

4. 20m Walk right along easy line of weakness to large gangway across face, belay at left end (peg).

5. 35m Move left and take wall direct to corner of great overhang and belay at top of rock pile.

6. 40m Climb wall a metre or two from the corner until under the headwall.

7. 30m Up crack, not chimney, above belay to easy ground. Straight up left to belay at foot of water crack.

8. 40m Straight up water cracks.

9. 15m Up steep ramp through headwall onto summit ridge.

Starts at the left-hand end of the overlap that forms the roof to the right of Badile.

1. 15m Gain the overlap and traverse right on underclings and jams, hanging stance at base of corner

2. 20m Climb corner system to belay

3. 50m Climb diagonally right following flake then climb straight up and over small overlap to small ledge

4. 50m Traverse 5 m right and climb steep black slabs to the huge scimitar shaped fissure and climb this to its right hand end

5. 50m Climb the right hand of the two corner systems and finish over the overhang.

6. Scramble to top. Can finish as Badile up unprotected ramp to summit ridge.

1. 20m (23) Climb wall (bolt) and slab between Beckoning Horizon and Trout Dentures.

2. 45m (14) Slabs to belay below a short corner.

3. 50m (16) Slabs to belay beneath imposing orange headwall.

4. 15m (20) Blast up the middle of the orange headwall.

Starts in the centre of the main cliffs, belay on gently sloping slabs under overlap.

1. 30m (14) Move right from start onto flake and thence follow line of bolts up easier ground, belay at left of large ampitheatre where Homeward Bound joins same line.

2. 30m (10) Two variations are possible, either join bolts by climbing directly left to first bolt and then follow bolts and natural line to belay ledge. Alternatively climb straight above belay and then along crack to join bolt line and then to ledge.

3. Same as Homeward Bound.

4. Same as Homeward Bound.

Start 15 metres left of Trout Dentures start. The pitch takes a direct line to the belay ledge at the end of the first pitch of Trout Dentures. A bolt protects the moves over the bulge to gain the small corner and then a small ledge. Slab climbing on good holds leads to Trout Dentures belay ledge.

Traverses across the main slab to give access to the upper pitches of Californication. Starts 5 metres left of Homeward Bound at base of cracks, below a large block.

1. 30m (15) Take the crack system to the large block that forms the first belay of Homeward Bound.

2. 45m (14) Climb slab, trending to the right to a large boulder on a ledge at about 35 metres. Traverse right to belay at left end of large vegetated ledge.

3. 25m Walk right along vegetated ledge to end of vegetation.

4. 30m (17) Move right and climb steep slabs to the large overlap system using a bolt runner from Californication.

5. 35m (16) Undercling the overlaps to the final corner and traverse left to belay at end of overlaps.

6. 60m (9) Up corner and slabs to small ampitheatre.

At the lowest point of the cliffs 20 metres right of Trout Dentures there is a large block 20 metres up.

1. 36m (Crux) Straight up the black slab above ledge then rising traverse left to belay on top of block. Note the melted tape from the 1991 fire.

2. Walk left to belay stance where rout joins Trout Dentures.

3. 36m Up slab on left then back right to good nut belay in scoop.

4. 36m Traverse back left until below corner. Up this for 2 metres then rising traverse left to belay in scoop with corner on right.

5. 38m Rising traverse past ledge with small tree(?) at 30m to belay on ledge.

6. 44m Walk right along ledge into pockmarked scoop. Climb out on its left and climb straight up to belay on two horizontal flakes.

7. 42m Straight up to finish.

A good direct and sustained route. Starting as for Homeward Bound, but climb straight up the ‘black face’. Medium to small gear, include extra micro friends and slings. This trad route was sadly retro-bolted in early 2000s with fixed abseil anchors (rings) at the ends of its pitches 1-4, which changes the pitch descriptions somewhat as well. Do not attempt to climb to the 5th bolted belay: there is no gear in between 4th and 5th belays and this is not where the original climb goes anyway.

1. 30m (15) Up face to vegetated ledge 7m up. Past fixed hanger half way up to belay 4m above overlap.

2. 25m (15) Rising traverse 3m R from belay to big cam placement in horizontal crack. Directly through two orange overlaps to belay. 10m R of this pitch are two bolts on an unknown route.

3. 25m (16) Directly up face past nose feature (crux).

4. 30m (14) Up past two fixed hangers to belay at the second grassy ledge.

5. 40m (13) Up past lone grey block, 5m above is crack for nuts. Trend left to sitting trad belay on top of huge block. Ignore the ring bolts 6m R of line.

6. 45m (15R) Up past bush to L and trend L to gain R facing corner/crack. Big #3 camelot. Follow this to large ledge.

7. 55m (8) Up R from ledge and easily as far as rope will allow. Belay, then scramble to top.

Start at the base of Californication / Infinite Pursuit gully.

1. 15m (23) Climb steep black slab on left (bolt) to belay at diagonal break.

2. 40m (18) Straight up slab to belay beneath left hand end of overlap.

3. 10m (21) Climb overlap and thin seam to belay on top of big Californication flake.

4. 50m (18) From left hand end of ledge climb slabs to finish.

Also (18R) variation by avoiding pitch III. Quality all the way. Start 15 metres up the gully.

1. 15m (18) Branch out left to follow the arching line and then launch through to the big ledge.

2. 25m (18) Climb up and diagonally left past a detached flake and climb the headwall (peg runner). Traverse right to the base of the flake crack or straight up to the ledge thus avoiding pitch 3.

3. 25m (20) Steep ground to gain the underside of the flake. Traverse right on jams and then glory laybacking to the stance (or climb thin crack in face of the flake).

4. 30m (17R) Steep slab climbing to the giant overlap system which is followed to a hanging belay at the top of the last corner.

5. 10m (19) Thug through the roof crack and jugs to gain slabs and the big ledge system, or (16) traverse left around end of overhangs for an easier finish.

Start by climbing the right trending diagonal crack system just right of some white streaky rock to the right of Californication.

1. 30m (17) Climb the gully to a big ledge beneath the diagonal roof.

2. 30m (19) Climb the slab and bulge just right of the crack.

3. 40m (15) Directly up slabs to a big ledge.

4. 40m (17) Climb the crack system that splits the slabby buttress.

Follows obvious cracks at back of gully. Allows access to all sorts of interesting things.

Gain the thin snaking crack line and jam the steep crack above.

Start 2 metres right of Season of the Bitch. Gain thin hanging crack from left, climb this, the bulge and the finishing jam crack.

Thin sinuous seam 5 metres right of Year of the Dragon.

The first shallow corner 30 metres right of Endless Quest. Up this corner and step left and then the wall above. From the top of the climb escape off to the right.