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Routes in Dolphin Walls Lower

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Showing all 22 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
16 Chiselhands

FA: V Wills

Trad 12m
15 Jenny's climb

The first climb right of the descent gully, facing cliff.

Trad 15m
14 Formality

Up a right facing series of corners and large ledges. Not a good beginners lead due to ledge fall potential.

Trad 15m
20 Polyfilla LHV

The corner with ground level sentry box left of the normal start of Pollyfilla. Join that route at half height to finish on HWL

Trad 16m
19 Polyfilla

Up corner and ledge just right of Formality, then straight up wall to HWL. This is incorrectly shown as MM in the local guide.

Trad 15m
21 Maid Marion

Up slab into corner just left of prow of storm front. Into groove and top out via flake to HWL.

Trad 15m
24 Storm Front

Up prow passing bolt to HWL.

Trad 15m
22 Flight Sensation

Easy blocks to base of hanging chimney. Hard moves to get into groove, then up to HWL.

FA: John Wilde

Trad 15m
21 When the Tide Comes In

Start as for WWJ in alcove and up to roof. At roof bridge and step left onto prow and hanging V groove.

Trad 20m
21 Whitewater Johnny

A direct start is possible, but the line starts in alcove as for WTTCI, but at the roof go right and then carefully up groove.

Trad 15m
21 R Sweaty Palms

Starts on the next buttress R of WWJ direct. Up face and arête, stepping left into alcove and up into small scoop. Technical face moves get you to the top though little gear after half way.

Trad 20m
21 Kit Kat

Starts in small corner, wires protect moves up to small hand ledge. Step across left and up to gain good undercling and gear. Committing move up and right towards good finger crack and a 1 Camelot placement. Bridge up into mini alcove and a better stance. Natural Belay from ledge above, tough warmup or a nice 2nd climb. Traverse carefully back around to the decent gully.

Trad 20m
21 Cadbury Snack
Trad 20m
23 Remdemtion

This route has 2 pitches. P1 Climb easy ground carefully up block with minimal gear. On ledge their is a good wire placement, use a 600mm sling for drag. Up and left is good pocket for small cam/s, but route heads straight up on good edges, veering slightly right to foot ledge. Mantle onto ledge where good placements can be found. Thin seem on the slabbish wall heads straight up with small features, but there are plenty of placements. Interesting move off foot ledge to get half way up the seam, small feet and a few tricky moves to gain small pocket up and right. A slopey ramp guards the exit.

P2 Open book corner with some great movements following corner. Good gear, but balancy pressing/stemming moves to get to the fixed hanger 3/4 up the wall. Lean out left where two good pockets can be found and a 1 Camelot placement. Keep on left wall to get to big break and a 3 Camelot placement. Step onto big block to finish next to Squinting Albino Pasty Cook.

Pitch 1 is the better pitch.

FA: George Fieg

Trad 45m
23 Swing Time
Trad 20m
21 Houdini direct start
Trad 18m
19 Houdini

Traverse in from the right as for Dopey Mick but head to shallow corner, up to ledges and then scoops to slopey top out. The route directly below the rap anchors so easy to top rope. A very large block came out in the storms of 2016, making this route a bit more sustained, and perhaps destroying the direct start option.

Trad 20m
18 Dopey Mick

Traverse under small roof to shallow V groove. Place some runners in the horizontal then up and slightly right into groove and follow this to ledge. Step left to belay off DBB.

Trad 20m
22 Honey Log

Same start as for Dopey Mick but go straight up through overlaps to roof and then on to top. Good wire in shallow crack just over roof protects crux. Stay to the right of Dopey Mick up the blunt arete with good pods for gear. Can belay off DBB to left.

FA: V Wills & J Hollott, 2011

Trad 15m
20 Cadbury Flake

Follow corner to small roof then go left following obvious flake, up past horizontal (#3 or #4 cam), step slightly left and follow seam to top. Good pro. Trad anchor needed for belay.

Trad 20m
19 Turkish Delight
Trad 20m
20 Cherry Ripe
Trad 20m

Showing all 22 routes.

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