Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
V9/10 | |||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Bat Cave | |||||
V9/10 | ★★★ Kendra's Roof
The extension to "Kendra's Roof", continuing past the mushroom via a roof crux and then up a desperate slab above the terrifying drop away landing. Set: Spenser Tang Smith FFA: Andy Lampard, Jul 2016 | ||||
V9 | |||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side Fat Cave | |||||
V9 | ★★★ Holy Matrimony
Start at the bottom of the big flake deep in the cave. Up and out via cool pockets and edges. Cave classic and also the hardest established problem at Bowen. FFA: Spenser Tang Smith | 6m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Beach Side | |||||
V9 | ★ Beefy Americano
Sit start in big groove and then make your way out of the overhang on cool groove features and then some very small holds at the lip. Looks possible but who knows. FA: Spenser Tang-Smith, Sep 2023 | 3m | |||
V8 | |||||
Bowen Murray Bay Mango Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★ The Great Mango Heist
SS up arete. FFA: Andy Lampard | ||||
Bowen Murray Bay Traverse Boulder | |||||
V8 | ★★★ Star System's a Hoax
Sit start, climb to the lip with some fun and big movements traverse right then topping out above the other boulder. Tricky to spot and pad the top-out. Previously undocumented but named 'Cameron's v7' which was the same line although didn't top out it just walked off on the other boulder, seen in the Due North climbing video by SB. Found and climbed with top-out by Andy Lampard. FFA: Andy Lampard | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side Fat Cave | |||||
V8 | ★★ Steve Obesity
Start as Holy Matrimony and then follow the line of pockets across the roof to a tricky crux. Out the cave via jugs to a committing mantle. FA: Nick Larsen | ||||
Bowen Coral Bay | |||||
V8 | ★ Nick's Stolen Roof
Start at the base of the roof on a big jug and out to the big jug on lip. Drop off here - though it could be linked into "Nick's Stolen Roof Top". FA: Nick Larsen | ||||
V7 | |||||
Bowen Murray Bay Tidal Boulders | |||||
V7 | ★★ Hit From Behind
Steep sit start with big moves. FA: Brendon Abernathy | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay | |||||
V7 | ★★★ 3 pockets or 4 to top
| 7m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side Fat Cave | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Steve Obesity in Reverse
As the name suggests, starting in the big pocket near the end of "Steve Obesity". Crux getting established in the line of pockets in the middle of the roof and then R to the flake. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side Seaside Slopers | |||||
V7 | Nick's Traverse
Start as for problem 8 and then after doing the first few moves traverse back R to finish up the easy section just L of the big crack. FA: Nick Larsen | ||||
V7 | ★★★ Uncle Abbers
Start as for "Seaside slopers 2" and then traverse left to the cool line of holds. Up this committing line to the top, with a high, scary crux. An outstanding problem. FA: Brendon Abernathy | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Bat Cave | |||||
V7 | ★★ Kendra's Roof Short
Classic roof climbing following the obvious line. Starting at slopers at back middle then traverse left to crux move behind head and back across right, finishing on the mushroom. A big 'U' shaped climb. FA: Spenser Tang Smith | ||||
V7 | ★★ Kingdra
Start on double underclings, use right crimp and left pinch to reach better holds. Located 10m left of the roof. FA: Callum Mather | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Jump Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Pandora's Boxjump
Grab edge and jump. Up via bad slopers. FA: Spenser Tang-Smith, Sep 2023 | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Wall of Certain Death | |||||
V7 | 6ft Under
Start sitting below the big flake on two tiny crimps. Pull on and throw for jug. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Beach Side | |||||
V7 | ★★ Sultans of Ming
Sit start in slopey hue then straight up. FA: Dan Gordon, Jul 2015 | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ King of the North
Sit start on obvious undercling (stack pads if necessary), big move to lip then mantle. FA: Steve Baskerville | 3m | |||
Bowen Coral Bay | |||||
V7 | ★★ Dark Alley
Cool blank arête deep in amongst the boulders. FA: Brendon Abernathy | ||||
V7 | ★★ Fat Boy Steve
Start way left and traverse all the way to join "Police State". FA: Nick Larsen | ||||
Bowen Queens Bay Octopus Boulders | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Mollusc Crawl
Start on car park side of Molluscing around bouldering on right hand side pull and left good sloper. climbs to the left through excellent pocket and all the way around the left to the good rail and then up to easy top out. Feet to avoid barnecles and hard residue after the start. FA: | 4m | |||
V6/7 | |||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Warm-up Boulder | |||||
V6/7 | 3
Starting on the same arête as "2" finishes on. This sit start problem starts low with a small chockstone for feet; pull down on with two desperate sloper sidepulls and throw for the big jug. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V6 | |||||
Agnes Waters Town of 1770 The Death Boulders | |||||
V6 | ★★ Transom Leap
Stand start in the middle of the Aft boulder, left on crimp flake, right on peaked pinch. Blast up to lip and mantle. One-move-wonder, but feels great to stick it. FA: Zac Horstman, Sep 2021 | 4m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay | |||||
V6 | ★ 1st Overhang
| ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side Seaside Slopers | |||||
V6 | ★★ Seaside slopers 2
Start crouched with slopers. Move left to big pinch and then blast back right via more slopers to join "Seaside slopers 1" at the top. | ||||
V6 | ★ Seaside slopers 1 (variant finish)
Start as for "Seaside slopers 1" but move up and R to finish on featured rib of holds. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Warm-up Boulder | |||||
V6 | 2
A pumpy traverse. Sit start and traversing right on a series of slopey features finishing on the obvious juggy arête on the opposite side of the boulder, the start of the problem. FA: Nick Larsen | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Beach Side | |||||
V6 | ★ Fat Girls & Beef
Start two hands on obvious rail then straight up on bad feet and small edges. | 3m | |||
Bowen Coral Bay | |||||
V6 | Fat Boy Nick
| ||||
Bowen Queens Bay The Overhangs | |||||
V6 | ★★★ Concerned Susan
Start on edges in middle of face right in front of concerning stake sticking out of the ground. Traverse left along small edges to rail then finish up rail to a massive jug and cool mantle. FA: Steve Baskerville | 4m | |||
V5/6 | |||||
Bowen Murray Bay South Side Boulders | |||||
V5/6 | ★★ Amphetamemes
Sit start on the lower bloc. Traverse L to gain obvious sidepull jug and dyno to holds up high. Probably nicer as a stand start. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Oct 2018 | 3m | |||
V5/6 | ★★ Irukandji
Small and stings.. A two move problem up the steep 50* roof, starting low on obvious sidepull in middle of face. Big move to lip and top out. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Oct 2018 | 2m | |||
V5 | |||||
Agnes Waters Town of 1770 The Death Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★★ The Fozz
Stand start on two mini-jugs to right of seam, follow thin seam straight up. Sit start possible. FA: Luke Forrester, 2021 | 5m | |||
Yeppoon/ Capricorn Coast Rosslyn Bay Minor Deliquency Wall | |||||
V5 | ★★ Grand Larceny
Starting low in the right side of the cave holding a right hand pocket cluster and a Left hand good edge move up and out toward the lip then follow Larceny to the top along the lip line. FA: Nick Foulds, 26 Dec 2021 | 4m | |||
Yeppoon/ Capricorn Coast Rosslyn Bay | |||||
V5 | ★ Dragons Breath | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★ Hook, Line and Sinker | 3m | |||
Blackdown Tableland National Park Camphitheatre | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Enduring Legacy
Prow line. Crouch start on the inverse-facing rail and heel hook leftwards up the sloped rail to the top of the Boulder, then mantle over the right side. Pumpy and sequence-specific. FA: Tim Hall | 5m | |||
Bowen Murray Bay The point | |||||
V5 | ★★★ High Tide
Low start with committing move, following up slaps to the top. FA: suhas sharma & Time Nguyen, 18 Dec 2020 | 3m | |||
Bowen Murray Bay South Side Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★★ Clam Hands
Start on slopey face, above big undercling/jug on the left side on the roof (Could start on undercling, however it appears to be quite weak). Traverse R along lip of boulder on slopers, topping out above adjacent boulder. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 4 Oct 2018 | 2m | |||
Bowen Murray Bay Tidal Boulders | |||||
V5 | 6
| ||||
V5 | ★★ Flakes Away
Low start from good flake. FA: Nick Larsen | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay | |||||
V5 | ★★★ 4th Overhang
| ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side Fat Cave | |||||
V5 | ★★ Fudge Boy Nick the Pudgy Oompa Loompa
Start in the middle of the cave. A big move out to the pockets in the middle of the roof then R to big flake. FA: Steve Baskerville | 4m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side Seaside Slopers | |||||
V5 | 15
Stupid but fun. Mantle, starting on the sloping LH end of the tiny boulder. Credit: The Best pf Bowen Bouldering by Steve Baskerville. FA: Spenser Tang Smith | ||||
V5 | ★ 11
Sit start with RH sloper and LH sidepull. Up and L to finish. Credit: The Best pf Bowen Bouldering by Steve Baskerville. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V5 | ★★ Seaside slopers 1
Start off low slopes and up into "Seaside slopers 1 (stand)". FA: Brendon Abernathy | ||||
V5 | ★★★ Welcome to Barbados (low start)
Start extra low on slopey hueco. Hard start moves right into the sit start of "WTB". FA: Steve Baskerville | 4m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Bat Cave | |||||
V5 | Moonbo Roof variant
Start a little left of "Moonbo Roof" on edges. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V5 | ★★ Moonbo Roof
Original problem. Start at left side back slopers and move to a sloper behind head. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Jump Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ 3
Sit start and desperate mantle. | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Wall of Certain Death | |||||
V5 | ★★ Afterlife
Start at the big jugs at the base of the little corner. Blast out to the arête and pocket and up the high wall. FA: Spenser Tang Smith | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Warm-up Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Danabus
Left of "1". Sit start, starting on a two hand pinch moving diagonally up R through problems "1" and "2". Finishing up the juggy arete with a mantle. | 3m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Beach Side | |||||
V5 | ★★★ A Salty Groove
Sit start way at the back of the groove in pockets then head up and out to finish up the right hand arête. FA: Dan the Man | 3m | |||
Bowen Coral Bay | |||||
V5 | ★★ Pockets
Sit start and up via big moves to the break. Drop off from there. Does not top out. Can also be done as a stand start, see "Pockets (stand start)". FA: Nick Larsen | ||||
Bowen Queens Bay The Overhangs | |||||
V5 | ★★ Cave left variant finish
As for the cave, avoid the easy holds to the right on the lip, up to the crescent crimp then up left. | 4m | |||
V4 | |||||
Agnes Waters Town of 1770 The Death Boulders | |||||
V4 | ★ Gone North
Sit start on arete, compress with Rh slopey sidepull, Lh 2 finger pocket. Make a bunched move then cruise to the top. FA: Oliver Rickford, Aug 2022 | 3m | |||
Yeppoon/ Capricorn Coast Rosslyn Bay Minor Deliquency Wall | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Bullet and a Target
| 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Petty Theft
Start one meter right of the left hand edge of the cave, work your way up through the roof (careful off friable rock), Slap out and round the lip to match the slopey hold on the lip for the finish (extension will go to stand on the finish hold for an extra V point). FA: Nick Foulds, 26 Dec 2021 | 2m | |||
Blackdown Tableland National Park Camphitheatre | |||||
V4 | ★★ Zebedee’s Ace of Hearts
Sit start as for Sun Rose. Stay as far right as possible along the lowest set of crimps, leading to a dunk to the top of the Boulder. Mantle over the right side. FA: Tim Hall, 13 Jun 2022 | 3m | |||
Bowen Murray Bay Tidal Boulders | |||||
V4 | 5
| ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay | |||||
V4 | ★ Crimpin crystals
| 4m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side Fat Cave | |||||
V4 | ★★ Teenage Dirtbag Extended
Same as Teenage Dirtbag but continue out and over the lip, topping out with a mantle. | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side Seaside Slopers | |||||
V4 | ★ 12
Sit start and then up to the right. Credit: The Best pf Bowen Bouldering by Steve Baskerville. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
V4 | ★★ Jochheim Blues
Stand start from lowest point (not boulder on left) then follow obvious line of sloppy features straight up. A bit committing so make sure to have some mats and spotters. | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Welcome to Barbados
Sit start. | 6m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Pockets Boulder | |||||
V4 | Penumbra
FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 1 Jan 2021 | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Wall of Certain Death | |||||
V4 | ★★ Moisture Infused (sit start)
The sit start of "Moisture Infused". On edges and up to a pitch which turns into an underclig. FA: Luen Warneke, 8 Sep 2018 | 5m | |||
Bowen Coral Bay | |||||
V4 | ★ Nick's Stolen Roof Top
Starts or continues on from where "Nick's Stolen Roof" finishes. From the jug and up. Be very careful of the rock up high. | ||||
V4 | ★ Police State
Start on the two slopers and move R to arête. FA: Steve Baskerville | ||||
Bowen Queens Bay The Overhangs | |||||
V4 | ★★ Glass Jugs
Sit start in hueco, head straight up on big undercling and good edges to finish in some slightly glassy jugs at lip. | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★ The Cave
Sit start on pockets at the back of the cave. Traverse out of the cave then some difficult moves to get out of the cave to the lip of the boulder. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Central railways
Sit start at base of obvious rail, traverse right up rail and mantle out to finish. | 4m | |||
Bowen Queens Bay Octopus Boulders | |||||
V4 | ★ Who Eats Octopus
| ||||
V3 | |||||
Cania Gorge Lazy Ledges | |||||
V3 | ★★★ The Quila
The fun short roof handcrack below The Quila Climb. Makes an awesome linkup. FFA: Alex Mougenot & Kwan Goddard-Lee, Jul 2015 | 4m | |||
Agnes Waters | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Garrigarrang | 3m | |||
Agnes Waters Town of 1770 The Death Boulders | |||||
V3 | ★★ Jaggameister
Nice arete traverse right-upward and then easy mantle. Video beta: http://tinyurl.com/mpjmppx Once you arrive at the end of the descent, turn left towards the bigger boulders next to the shore. Jaggameister Boulder can be reached through a mini-canyon/cave/tunnel between two other bigger boulders. I made the FA without a crash pad, hence I was very cautious, that is why I propose V3 max. It might even be that with appropriate protection the difficulty level is lower, maybe V2? There is the possibility for a sit-start extension. FA: Corrado Bracciolo, 7 Aug 2014 | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Sailor Jerry
Sit start on two sidepull crimps, continuing straight up. Only accessible on medium-low tide. FA: Mitch Woodward | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Lacing Timber
Sit start both hands on obvious bowl feature, head up and left to mantle out as for Bobstay. | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Supedywoopdoop
Sit start (no pad stacks!) low on the slopey arete. Trend left up the face to the top. Heady. FA: Mitch Woodward | ||||
V3 | Cant Frame Arête
Stand start both hands on undercling of arête to the right of Transom Leap. Pop up and left to mantle. FA: Zac Horstman, Sep 2021 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Sunstroke
Start on huge undercling/sidepull and feet on big rusty shelf. Work your way up and right on the tufa like structure with awesome holds. Finish on the big jug just into the choss band. FA: Albert Tate, 2022 | ||||
Yeppoon/ Capricorn Coast Mulambin Beach Mid Buttress and caves | |||||
V3 | Sunsoutgunsout
A show-off's dream. Practically never in the shade, frustratingly public, and difficult to protect. In spite of this, still worth a play. Sit start at the edge of the cave, overhung traverse up-hill using the outer arete. 'Open project'. 'Undetermined finish'. FUN. Difficult to place the crash-pad as there's a boulder right where you wouldn't want there to be one. | ||||
Yeppoon/ Capricorn Coast Rosslyn Bay Drain | |||||
V3 | ★ Chapel
Sit start in the manky cave left of splinters top out (just past the shrub). Short roof climb trending right, then a short pumpy section to link up with the Splinter top out (look for an old piton to mark the top out point). Really fun! | ||||
Yeppoon/ Capricorn Coast Rosslyn Bay Minor Deliquency Wall | |||||
V3 | ★ Larceny
Starting on the holds at the lowest point the plants will allow on the right hand side of the cave, follow the lip along to the left gaining height, top out onto the slopey dish to match hands above. FA: Nick Foulds & Andrew Rogers, 26 Dec 2021 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Homocidal Horn
| 4m | |||
Yeppoon/ Capricorn Coast Rosslyn Bay | |||||
V3 | ★★ Jaws of Life
FA: Jacob Carvell, 2009 | 3m | |||
Bowen Murray Bay Vanuatu Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★ Vanuatu 2
| 5m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay | |||||
V3 | ★★ Mantle that!
| 3m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side boulders | |||||
V3 | ★ Route 5
Start on massive undercling and work around right through layback flake/crack and up FA: unknown | ||||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side Pink Elephant | |||||
V3 | ★ Hold Me Tight
Start just right of the "Descend", traverse left around the boulder to pockets and top out. Finishes at the top of "Table Salt" | 5m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side Fat Cave | |||||
V3 | ★★ Teenage Dirtbag
From the middle of the roof in a sitting position traverse left and low via good holds but less then perfect rock. Can also be started at the flake further right. FA: Spenser Tang Smith | 3m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay South Side Seaside Slopers | |||||
V3 | ★★ Seaside slopers 2 (stand)
| 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Pelicant
Sit start at base of overhanging prow. Some cool steep moves get you into a committing top section. FA: Steve Baskerville | 5m | |||
V3 | ★ Rubber left behind
Starting on the slopey holds of "Welcome to Barbados (low start)", head straight up aret then move right to stay on left arête | 4m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Gilded Gadfly | |||||
V3 | ★ Gilded Gadfly
| 2m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Voodoo Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ Voodoo
| 4m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Jump Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★ Right Cheek
Sit start. Campus up via good holds (no feet at the start). Plenty of other variants (V0 – V4). Lots of short sit starts, traverses and eliminates. | 2m | |||
Bowen Horseshoe Bay North Side Wall of Certain Death | |||||
V3 | ★★ Moisture Infused
Standing start. Crimps/edge up to high under cling / pinch then continue to top out. FA: Luen Warneke, 8 Sep 2018 | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Underbelly
Sit start and then traverse R staying low to finish on the RH end of the big flake. FA: Steve Baskerville | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Thug Life (sit start)
Sit start and up the wall. Be careful of the rock up high. | 5m |