Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
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North Cairns North Wangetti Pretty Beach Northern Retreat | |||||
V1 | ★★ Fangled Angle Dangle Wrangle
Sit start laybacking off the arete, punch up to the break and go until you top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Dialysis
Sit with bad central right 2 finger seam/join/slot, and left low gaston. Up to edge, then top. FA: Jared Tyerman, 6 May | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ All Hail She, The Prowess
Sit start laybacking the arete under the bulge. Punch up over the bulge and stand atop gazing out over your lands, or continue to the top if you want. FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | Ramp-Arts & Crack Dancing
Sit start in the corner and follow the crack to the top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Livid With Living
Sit start on the jug pocket and crack, follow out left to more good holds and then head up onto the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Pods
Sit start on the block at the base of the blade arete, use the pinch pods to start with and reef your way to the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Spine Of Time
To the right of 'Pods' going up the crack and blade. Sit start to begin and heave your way to get over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Pleasing The Paletteless
Sit start low on the rising arete, head right and go up the crack and over the spine. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ Teased And Pleased
Right hand start to 'Pleasing The Paletteless'. Sit start just under the small roof with hands on the juggy triangle and go left up to the crack and over the spine. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V0+ | ★ Pressed Palms
The far right problem of this wall. Might be hard to find a time when it's dry. Sit start under the overhanging arete and hands on the blocky jug, go from this to the next blocky jug and pull up to the next crack and over the top FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V0- | 4
Find this one inside the large crevasses between the blocks. Starts on a large chockstone over a long narrow cave. Sit at the base of the juggy flake. FA: Jamey Lee & Nick Murphy, 17 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V0 | Spiney Bits
Sit start holding the spine arete and pull up into the corner and go up over the spine.w FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★★ Waves In My Chalk Bag
Layback off the base of the arete just to the right of 'Spiney Bits'. Follow it up to the right to the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Flung Under The Clung
Sit start with hands underclinging the edge of the small rooflet, feet above the block at the bottom of the wall. Head left over the bulge and to the tallest part of the wall. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★★ Lay La Rocking Clapped On
Sit start using the blade and face holds, going up with the blade and over the rounded top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Sunscreen, Sweat, Eyeballs And Crying
An awesome problem with great moves on solid rock (after some cleaning anyway). Right in the corner near the cave. Sit start with left hand in the base of the thin crack, right hand on the side pull, then head up under the 45 degree face towards the rounded horn and then top out to the left from here. Watch the rock behind you! FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 4m | |||
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V0 | 3
Sit start at base of layback arete and follow up to the left FA: Jamey Lee & Nick Murphy, 17 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V0 | Oooooh, My Corona
Sit start with hands on the small block and punch up to the jug and head left. Descend by jumping back down or wandering over to the left. FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | Not Funny Or Clever, Just A Disgrace
Sit start underneath the flake, hug this and follow up to the left FA: Nick Murphy, 17 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ The Banded Periwinkle
Sit start undercling and crack. Work up crack to topout direct. Some face holds, much smearing. FA: Jared Tyerman, Mick Cairns, Ryan Byrnes & Kyana Clough, 13 Aug 2023 | 5m | |||
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★★ 41
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V0 | ★ Step Right Off
Sit start on large horn and go up right across slopes and cracks until you get to the tree, then scramble down to the right. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★★ Dynamic Marmalade
Sit start with the same horn as 'Step Right Off' but head left using the hand crack. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 4m | |||
VB | ★ Jungles And Giants
Sit start at the pyramid and follow up the jugs and the cracks to the top. Can either scramble back down to descend, or walk over the back and around. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Trimming Blade
Stand start using the rising crack and face holds and pull up into the concave depression and over the top. FA: Nick Murphy & Darcy, 31 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Green Army Ants
Sit start using the sharp arete to pull up and slightly left to top out. FA: Nick Murphy & Darcy, 31 May 2020 | 2m | |||
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V2 | ★ King Of The Soft Grade
Sit start low with right hand in the pocket, and left hand on the arete and head up via the arete and seam. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Ramped Effects
Using the same pocket as 'King Of The Soft Grade' for the left hand, and right hand in the seam below the ramp, head straight up the arete. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Knock Block
Sit start in the corner, hands in the crack and follow up and top out near 'Ramped Effects' FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V0+ | ★ Sweetened Lies
Sit start at the base of the crack to the right of Knock Block, layback and pop over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 2m | |||
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The base is dry at low tide unlike at high tide when the photo was taken | |||||
V3 | ★★ Ending The Month Of May-Hem And Sendage
Sit start under the corner of the roof with right hand on the arete and left hand on the sloper above and follow up and across the weakness to top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 31 May 2020 | 2m | |||
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Crumbly and not very inspiring | 2m | ||||
North Cairns North Wangetti Pretty Beach The Zoo Pen | |||||
V0+ | ★ Entry Gates
Sit start on the jugs to the right of 'Rhino Face' on the small platform, and head up using sidepulls and edges to the top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020 | 2m | |||
V5 | ★★ Rhino Face
Sit start on low jugs on RH end of shelf underneath roof. Slot and edge, long move gaining a slopey nubbin or bigger move to slightly better hold. High and left on the seaward face, topping out above. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Jul 2018 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Rhino Roof
Start under roof sitting with platform and higher right remarkable feature for hands. Moves through semi jug, pinching edge, and good rail. Good high hand then top via good shelf. Has alternative endings. FA: Jared Tyerman, 23 Jul 2018 | 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Chilled Fingers
Sit start with obvious slanted crack in layback position. Work up crack (find deep sections), pad thoughtfully and use a few good feet on opposite wall to topout above crack. FA: Jared Tyerman, 23 Jul 2018 | 3m | |||
V1/2 | ★★ Pleasantry
Sit start on good blocky jugs in low mini corner. Move up series of obvious blocky features before moving onto the slab, heading up and left to a high but good edge on slab. Very nice but easy climbing on good holds. FA: Cameron Wycherley, 23 Jul 2018 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Giraffe Arete
Sit start on the blocky jug straddling the arete with your feet. Follow straight up the arete using slopers, sidepulls, underclings, crimps, and anything else either side of the arete until you top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 9 May 2020 | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Emu Neck
About as soft as one too. A lot of blocks were pulled out on the first ascent requiring a retreat and use of a log to dislodge a lot of rock. Sit start at the base of the arete left of Giraffe Arete, follow this up to a juggy top out. FA: Nick Murphy, 9 May 2020 | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Fighting The Undertow
Excellent powerful fun problem. Sit start on the low flake with feet out wide left, snatch the flat crimps above, and throw for the jug rail finish. FA: Nick Murphy, 9 May 2020 | 3m | |||
V4 | ★★ Burrowing Billies
Sit start on the two jugs on the arete and then mantle over the bulge and onto the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020 | 2m | |||
North Cairns North Wangetti Pretty Beach Grey And Balding | |||||
V0+ | ★ Eye On The Prize
Sit start at the right hand side of the wall, underclings and crimps to start, staying left of the arete heading to the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020 | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ Beaked
Hanging left of the small roof use the jugs on the arete and slap the lip and pull over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Eye Don't Know What To Call This
Left of 'Beaked' starting in the breaks and heading to the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★ Breaks And Beaks
Starting with left hand in the shallow hueco and right hand in the left end of the break. Go straight up from here until over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020 | 2m | |||
V0+ | ★ Corner Store
Sit start under the uphill arete using crimps to start and pulling up to the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020 | 2m | |||
VB+ | ★ Right Way Up
Sit start to the right of 'Eye On The Prize', fun easy arete climbing. FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020 | 2m | |||
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V0 | ★ Lazy Blazey
Sit start the crack, laybacking until you're on top FA: Nick Murphy & Emer, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V0 | Lucidity Lacking
Sit start the thin crack, using the face holds and crack make your way over the top FA: Nick Murphy & Emer, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Get A Round Tuit
Finished it yet? Might need a Tuit to remind you. Sit start on the ledge and using the cracks and seams trend right to the top point and mantle over the corner. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
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V1 | ★ Grunt Start
On the uphill side of the block in the little corner roof. Sit start with hands on the lower of the two horns and follow the arete up and out to the right. FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★ Cave Trolling
Start over the hole on the left hand side of the small cave with jugs. Go out and left onto more jugs and head for the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020 | 2m | |||
V1 | ★★ Edge Of The Cave Rave
On the right hand side of the cave that 'Cave Trolling' starts in, go right and out off underclings and jugs to more jugs and pull over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020 | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Tracky Lacky Back
Around near the ocean side of the block, the long flake going from right up to the left. Sit start at the bottom in the flake and use whatever feet, including the block to the left, to pull up and follow it all the way to the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020 | 3m | |||
V0 | ★ Stuck In The Middle
Sit start and follow up the middle of the face using the variety of holds. FA: Nick Murphy & Emer, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V0 | Man Tell Me Not To Do It
Sit start with hands in the break just under the lip and mantle over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020 | 1m | |||
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V0+ | Wasted Effort
Not really worth doing, but it's there. Sit start down and right of the slate block on the face, using the breaks and pretty much sitting on the block on the ground, pull up, slap the lip and pull over. FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020 | 1m | |||
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V1 | ★ HamStrung Out
Sit start with hands on the quartz vein jug rail and muscle and grunt your way around and over the top. FA: Nick Murphy, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
V0 | Smeared Away
Sit start to the right of 'HamStrung Out', a bit of a meh problem. Using the bottom of the flake and a face hold pull up over while smearing and mantle off. FA: Nick Murphy, 27 Jun 2020 | 1m | |||
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V0 | ★ On A May-Day
Sit start using the flake and follow this over the top. Enjoyable and good for beginners. FA: Nick Murphy & Emer, 24 May 2020 | 2m | |||
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V8 | ★★★ Blinding Rage
Start as for Golden Age but escape left via big move to the slopey rail. Mantle as for Golden Age. FA: Callum Mather | 5m | |||
V9 | ★★★ Golden Age
Sit start on edges. Make your way right and up through a big deadpoint, finish up thin crack. FA: Callum Mather Set: Nick Murphy, 7 May 2020 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Widowmaker
Traverse from low right along sloping rail to thin crack and arete block to gaston face crack and topout. FA: Callum Mather, 12 Nov 2020 | 6m | |||
V4 | ★★★ Widowpeaks
Traverse from low right along sloping rail, when the rail ends go up via diagonal left hand crimp or huge move. FA: Callum Mather, 12 Nov 2020 | ||||
V2 | ★★ Ants in your eyes
Traverse from low right along sloping rail until you reach the crimp/jug slightly above the rail. Go to the lip via big move and mantle. FA: Callum Mather, 12 Nov 2020 | ||||
V2 | ★ Ants in your pants
Start low right on sloping rail and go straight up via crimps. FA: Callum Mather, 12 Nov 2020 | ||||
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